Gloyale

I could be wrong, but aren't EJ head bolts M10? Not M11? I KNOW that the EA headbolts are M11. that is why you can't get head studs for them. But, I could have sworn the EJ bolts are slighlty smaller? And you can buy stud kits for EJs all day long.

I hope you replaced the O-rings that seal the crossover pipe. It's my opinion that the o-rings on that pipe should be changed out anytime the intake is off. Definately anytime headgaskets are done. But people overlook them all the time, because they don't have to come out to remove the heads........though they should. If you didn't replace the o-rings there it will leak......likely as steam so you won't see it real well.

Just add a second E-brake handle. I did it on my GL and it is the SHiite. Last summer in New Mexico, my 4EAT sheared the rear transfer hub. Top of an 8500 FT mountain, with a pretty muddy trail up over and off. Without the Dual E-brakes, I would have been stuck for sure, but with, I was able to get out in FWD.

I've got 195/70/14 on my GL with no lift, just ALOT of sawzall. But only the fenders and wheel well, not into the doors. I've even run as big as 205/70/15 on the same car, but with an old spring perch flipped ove as a spacer below the spring in the rear so about 1' lift. My videos are on youtube, same name. The red GL turbo with rod knock.

There are 3 small plugs on the driver side of the trans. (10mm head) remove the plugs one at a time, and pull the ball and spring out. ONE AT A TIME or the interlock pin will drop and it is a beaach to get back in there. Clean out the holes, and reinstall. It may be that something is blocking the detents. it could also be that the rear bearing on the upper shaft is shot. If so, the upper shaft could be walking backward when you try to hit forth. That means that the shiftrod can't get the collar to go over the synchro and and engage the gear. Do you hear any grumbly grindy noises when rolling under light throttle?

First, drain all the oil and add fresh. Pull the spark plugs out and wire brush them. Leave them out for a bit. Get a can of spray carb/FI cleaner. Open the throttle and spray down the inside with the cleaner. Wipe out what you can with rags. Disconnect the Coil connector, so the coil can't spark. Then hit the key to crank the motor over for 10 secs or so. Spray the intake agian. Repeat 4 or 5 times or until you've washed away all the oil. Now reinstall the plugs, connect the coil, install the air intake and start he car. Might run rough for a few minutes, but it should smooth out. Then worry about all the body damage that was surely caused by flipping your car.

You've got it backward. All the EA82 cars had Electric fans. Only the ones with A/C have the belt driven fans. The electric fan is the primary cooling fan.

Get a used one. You don't want the headache of changing out the pump. Just the seals will be around $100 (tube seal, rear gaseket, pump gasket) and I can't even imagine the cost of the pump. Then as mentioned, with a new pump body you will have to measure and reshim the Pinion shaft. (since final end position is determined by the pump body thickness + shims + case length) And it is very possible that the reason the pump is shot is from improper installation of the Torque converter at some point in the past, which means the Pump drive tube is shot, and likely the Torque converter itself deformed. Common car........lots of good used trans out there.......unless you want to really dig into one or pay ALOT to have it rebuilt. FYI, there are no bearings in the bellhousing. Whining in that area, consistant with engine speed is 90% likely the pump.

90, and 91 engine harness has 3 connectors where it connects to the body harness. 92-94 has only 2 connectors. All the wires are the same with respect to function, they just go through more connectors on the early harness. If you can get ALL the 92 wiring, you could swap the 92 engine harness onto the engine you have, easiest solution I can see. Injectors and all other sensors will plug in directly. Otherwise, you could cut and splice the wires to match.

Again, PLUG the IAC hose and see if it changes. If it does, then you know you're IAC Isn't working properly. Check the middle wire at the IAC plug for 12 Volts when the IG is on and the test light grounded. Then ,test between the middle wire and each of the others and you should get 4-7 volts at each during warm up(ECU varies the opening of the valve by adjusting the voltage though the ground side of the circuit. One is "open" the other is closed") If that is good, then the problem is in the valve itself. A bad IAC vavle will "pull" open just from manifold vacuum so if it doesn;t work you get a high idle.

jeeze, eveyone here thinks these cars should be free. It's curious people love them so much but think they are worth so little. But in reality, if it has a nice body and a good running motor I'd say 750 is just about right. 600 would be better. It's an 89....that means the most recent D/R trans you can get. Plus It's fuel injected. It has rear shoulder belts but NOT the annoying passive/automatic belts. It's got 4 speakers and a Tach............and uh, oh yeah.....it's a Dual Range How many people on this board have spent $200 JUST for a dual range trans........and yet the car is only worth $150? C'mon. Trans= $200 Motor=$150 4wd rear subframe=$100 Nice unrusted EA body=$200 (almost scrap value) that's $650. can't get somethin for nothin

I didn't have to modify my EGR at all. Biggest thing is the EA82 disty has to be modified to fit in the EA81. Needs to have the gear knocked off the bottom, and have the EA81 drive gear fitted (requires drilling a new roll pin hole, drill press recommended) then one ear needs ground off and the remaining hole needs to be enlarged to the inside to match the EA81 hold down bolt. The clip on the bottom that holds the wires needs to have one bolt removed, rotated a hair, and then be peened down. this is so the wires don't get pinched under the disty body. If he has a late EA81 (83 or 84+) with the larger (225mm) flywheel he can use that flywheel and bolt the EA82 5spd clutch right onto it. No need to transfer timing marks.

What is your intake setup? Sounds to me like you have a major unmetered air leak. You should try plugging the hose that goes to the IAC (should be a big 3/4" line that goes from the intake tube to the IAC, about 9" long) Check all the other PCV hoses and your brake booster hose if you have one. (if not cap that off)

I am reffering to the Factory Service Manual "new product update" manual that was sent to US dealers in 83 and 84. But hey, lets keep going on and on and on about it rather than try to help this guy figure out what to buy.

I have Factory Literature from 83 and 84 that say otherwise.

Standards were made until '89 If I found an 89 with a perfect body and no rust and a nice interior I would jump on it. Convert it, small lift, but not a wheeler. I'd want to keep it nice. At the very least it's just getting hard to find unrusted bodies......starting to be a case of take what you can get for any kind of hatch. There were very, very, few 4wd sedans made. Most of them were sold in the mountainous areas of the country, and of those.....most are rusted away, wrecked, or driven into the ground (espscially the turbo sedans and coupes) It's no surprise you see some around, but relative to what is really for sale commonly, they just aren't up for sale. To buy one, you either find beat to hell that needs too much work or garage kept low milage cars for $$$$ The guy is trying to find a wheeler, so he want's cheap, and really should stay away from turbos anyway right? I didn't mean say they aren't out there.....but C'mon......I'm an idiot for telling him not to buy a turbo or a FWD to convert, but rather he should find a readily available 4wd car? Didn't realize that wasthe USMB definition of idiocy.

Huh? Which turbo? EA82? EJ22? WRX? And where are you getting this FYI, because it doesn't jive with my books or my experience. They all (4EATs) share a common case from 89-98. They all use 11.8 quarts. The 99-200x use a slightly smaller case which holds about 9.5 quarts his 05 trany is the later.

Green connectors are for "test" BLACK connectors are for "read" Both plugged in at the same time is Clear. You should check all the fuses first. But then if the LED in the ECU doesn't light you have a bad ECU.

Here is the 03 H6 L.L. Bean gettin high. Mom loves the cushier ride and easier entry/exit of this mild lift. The lift is our newly designed HighGuys 2 inch 3rd Gen Legacy kit. Check out the thread in Vendor forum.

It's official. HighGuys now has a kit available for you to lift your 3rd Gen Legacy/Outback and Bajas Kits available in 2 inch(strut tops only), 4inch, and 6 inch. Here is a picture of the 2inch kit installed on an 03 LL Bean H6. All of the kits utilize geometry corrected, angled blocks for the strut tops. 4 inch and 6 inch kits will use 2 inch and 4 inch subframe blocks respectivly. This will improve overall ground clearance from stock by 2 inches. Hardware included. 2 inch kit = $250 plus shipping ( 2"strut tops only) 4 inch kit = $700 plus shipping ( 4"strut tops and 2" full subframe blocks) 6 inch kit = $850 Plus shipping ( 6" strut tops and 4" full subframe blocks) Steering couplers for 4 and 6 inch lifts available for $60/with a core exchange For now, Orders can be placed by PM'ing me here on the board. Website coming soon (summer 2010)

No that's isn't true. If the Torque bind went away with the fuse, then obviously the Transfer solenoid is working. In that case, you may have a problem in the TCU. If the Fuse makes no difference, then you can assume that the Duty C is not capable of opening to drain off pressure and unlock the AWD. And Also, the transfer clutches are Completely accesible while you have the tailsection off. I would recommend removing the retainer clip, and pulling the plates to inspect them. Heck they are pretty cheap to replace. Take a die grinder to teh notches ont eh transfer hub before reinstallation.

I went through hell with charging on my last swap. In the end, I did not hook up the EA wiring at all. I ran the B/W wire from the EJ harness to the wire for the charge light. And the Yellow wire from the alt get's switched volts from a fused source. *note about yellow wire: that wire has a diode on it. after the diode, it is green wire, two of them. One goes to the ECU, and the other goes to the IG. relay trigger. If you cut out the diode, and supply power straigh to the green wires, the car will still run, but the ALT won't get it's signal volts. So you need to make the connection to that wire before the diode.

EA alternators are 50, 55, and 60 amp depending on the model. Now back to the show:popcorn:

You will need to modify your IAC valve, your distributor. You won't be ablt to use your power steering pump either, so you might want to find one for an EA81

If you're not gonna wheel it, just keep the legacy. they are better cars. Sell the loyale.