Gloyale

+1 It is not common for Non-turbo motors to crack this way.......and then for it to drip out of the exhaust pipe somehow? Not that it couldn't happen, but I would be looking for leaks at the Waterpump, waterpump O-ring, heater hose, or throttle body hoses (the little ones) Rule out that. and if it's still dripping..... unbolt the exhaust and look for this

No, the Ignition (main) relay is a 6 wire. closes 2 circuits. Brown the Fuel pump relay is one of the simple round 4 pole ones used for everthing in subies. but they are near eachother in the harness, and IIRC, the Ignition relay passes the signal (coil) volts to the Fuel relay.....although the relay doesn't close until the ECU supplies the ground.

Yes they will. I've done it. But frankly it is pretty damn easy to pull the motor, and then you have better access to all the seal and can do a better install and torque of the gaskets. If the car is an automatic trans, DO NOT install the intake until AFTER the engine is in and the you get the torque converter bolted to the flexplate. It is simple enough to drop the intake on with the engine in the car, and it totally saves alot of headache trying to tighten the TC bolts. It's hard to get them torqued right with the intake on through the little hole. Seriously?......anything with MPFI will have as many or more wires and hoses.........first gen legacies are actually some of the simplest and most user friendly engine and management systems anywhere.

So the big thing here is you haven't read the codes that the car is giving you. You could save alot of frustration. Pull the panel below the steering column. look up on the drivers side at the bunch of wires, and you should see a set of green connectors, and a set of black connectors. Plug the black set in to eachother, and then start the car, rev ethe engbine over 2000 rpm and drive it forwafrd and back just a bit and you should get a code. But just a hunch, did you replace the CTS for the ECU? the one with 2 pins? IF not, i would bet that is your problem.

if you don't have a tach signal run to the EA fuel pump control, then it will not supply power to the pump. You really are gonna want to have the EJ ECU controlling the fuel pump.

Pulling the rear cover is the best way to be sure. You don't need to unbolt the side bearings though. It will give you a good chance to inspect the gear teeth and the spiders, and change the fluid. Just use good sealant for reassembly.

All done. Installed int the car and it drives great. The one concern I have is the fluid filter. The Original H6 trans had a bypass cap bolted on instead of the spin on filter. The Forrester case that I used had the threaded pipe installed for a filter. In order to install the bypass cap from the H6, I would've needed to remove that threaded pipe for the filter, because that where the bypass bolt would go. So I left the filter there. Problem is, the H6 exhaust hits the filter. At least the heatsheild for the CAT. So I hammered a dent in the heatshield. It doesn't touch now, but the filter is DIRECTLY over the Cat. I am a bit worried about heat. I will have to remove the filter after a few days and inspect it for any signs of overheating. Otherwise the "hybrid" H6/Forrester trans is working fine.

Yeah I saw a unicorn driving one the other day:rolleyes:

No Joke. Snow storm for the coast mountain range here in Oregon on March 31 and April 1. The state extended the snow tire season, and we took to the hills. On top of the mountain....the only other rigs we saw were SUBARUS. an 05 outback, a 93 legacy sedan, and a 03ish Forrester. And of course.....the high guys: My car, Girlfriend throwing snowball at it. And my buddy Taijha and his newly EJ22'd wagon, no lift. Clifford rippin' through some deep pow-pow parked at the top View across the Willamette Valley to the Cascades fromt eh highest point in the coast range, Teak-Mon-Wee (Mary's Peak)

mounting the mustache bar. gotta drill through the floor and bolt in the mounts. Only reason to ever really consider doing this would be to have a 4wd EA81 coupe(only came 2wd) or sedan(a few 4wd's, I have one:grin: but very rare compared to the 2wd) perhaps if you found an 88 or 89 "standard" hatch with a perfect body and interior that was 2wd it would be worth it. Never for an EA82. too much work when 4wds are all over.

Actually it does. We had this problem in Clifford when trying to run longer trailing arms. In the end we decided the odd look of the wheel being forward was better than stuffing against the back of the body and having bad toe out.

The two connectors are for the EGR solenoid and the EVAP solenoid. If you're intake doens't have an EGR don't worry about that one. (the "T" IIRC) but the other should be hooked up to the solenoid that is inline between Fuel vent and the Charcoal canister. Not the cause of the idle problem though. It's either a vac leak in the PCV hoses (get new hose, 19/32's EVAP hose, clamp the ends. Make sure you have a turbo PCV installed) Or it;s a faulty AAV. UNscrew it from the top of the thermostat. Leav it plugged in to the harness. You can plug the lines to and from it....that should lower the idle while you test. Start the car and watch the valve in the AAV....If it hasn't closed in about 5 mins, it's bad. Same test can be done by simply putting 12v to it for a few minutes if you don't want to test on the car.

I believe his brat is early enough he may have the under hood fuel pump. In that case, mounting the FI pump there won't work well. It will be empty on start alot and run dry until the gas gets sucked up. On EA81's with the engine bay mounted pumps, this is what I did. Install an EJ fuel filter (or F.I. EA) in the engine bay where the stock pump is. then, at the rear, on drivers side, you will find a filter in the line, mounted to a bracket. Install the F.I. EA pump at this bracket. You;ll need a barbed adapter to go from the small EA hose to the larger inlet on the EA pump. The last 81 (model year) that I did we have had no problems needing a surge tank. Perhaps in a Auto-X situation where you really tossed it around, but we haven't had trouble yet.

If it's blue and yellow with a pink connector it's for the door speakers. It's common to cut them and splice in new wiring to the front speakers. You kinda have to to install an aftermarket stereo, becasue the stock wiring is common grounded between front and rear speakers on each side.

I totally disagree. Clutches for just the transfer gear are less than $175 bucks for all the plates and a proper adjusting shim, from Subaru. Other places they are even cheaper. The trans doesn't even have to come out to replacve them. With all the threads about torque bind in 4EATs (hundreds it seems) you are really taking a crap shoot with a used trans. Now if it didn't shift right, or free revved in 3rd gear or something(also common), then yeah get a used one. But the transfer clutches are SOOOO easy to replace, in the car even, that you are far better off to install new clutches. Don't forget to grind the notches off the transfer hub before installing the new clutches. The fact that your FWD fuse works to disengage the rear is a good sign, means the TCU is working, and the Duty C solenoid is good, so it must be the clutches. Heck you may even solve it by simply grinding off the notches of the hub and not even need new clutches(but I'd replace them anyway)

The first time you are offroad and the wheel stuffs into the well, you will be rubbing hard at the rear of the wheel. But I guess it looks better on the highway. Hopefully it isn't too far toed out from moving the trailing arm back but not the crossmember.

broken bolt: More photos on my photobucket account It's about half way assembled, I'll get more pictures today.

Something was not right on the assembly line whn this tranny was made. The bolt is stuck in so hard, that I am giving up. There is no way it can be removed without drilling it out, and helicoiling the hole. this would require removing all the gears and clutches and the valve body in order for the machinest to properly clamp it up and drill accurately. So, if I have to take all that stuff out, I am gonna just swap it all into a different case. I'll retain the original pump and diff/bell. The pinion backlash is all set and matched to that pump, but the cases should be able to be swapped without affecting anything. So I went and got batteries for the camera. Tommorow you are all in for an up close and personal look at the entire reassembly process of all the clutches, the valve body, the wiring harness, and the pump.

You need to use a new gasket. This engine in particular needs to have the best possible gasket or it will come back to bite you. dealerships sell the gaskets individually. just replace the one side that you are removing.

Nice ride. Curious why not block down the trailing arm mount like the front subframe? then the trailing arms should reach fine? Also, you do know you will need a lengthened front section of the driveline to run the D/R? They are about two inches shorter than the AWD boxes.

Well, all is going well for the most part. New bearings pressed, backlash on the pinion set. until.....BROKEN BOLT........DAMN There are 2 nuts and one bolt that hold the pump to the case body (additionally to the Diff bolts) the one bolt was SUPER tight coming out, so much so I had to tear into another trans as a model to make sure that bolt ACTUALLY is supposed to come out and is not an adjuster or something. It should come straight out. M10 x 1.25 bolt into a solid aluminum piece. I worked it gently back and forth in an attempt to coax it out, but in the end it came about halfway then broke. So now I have about 1/2" of bolt sticking out of the mating face of the pump to the trans body (could there be a worse place?) I've tried twice now to weld a nut onto it and back it out. Both time the weld breaks and the nut spins off. I am affraid to weld more aggressively on it in fear of damaging the aluminum. Ugh...... I swear, there will be pics.

it's not common, but it can happen. I'm in the process of rebuilding the front diff on an 03 H6 Outback right now. for a 4cyl model you may find it more economical to source a used trans. this rebuild cost $700 plus in seals, bearings, and ring/pinion set (ring/pinion is $350 alone)

Sounds like the disc is stuck to the hub. There should be small threaded holes in the disc. Between the studs. Run a m8 bolt into those holes, it will force the disc off by pushing against the hub.

It should be on the drivers side of the trans. Under the area where the Dipstick goes into the trans. However, I have seen a few later model trans that don't have a filter, just a bypass cap where the filter goes. If you can't see a filter, look for a cap about 3 in in diameter, with a 19mm nut in the center of the cap. Side of the trans, just behind the diff, under the dipstick. If you have a cap there.....return the filter.

Which engine are we talking about? phase I DOHC 2.5 there is a hex on the Cam to hold. phase I SOHC 2.2 there is not, you have to use an old belt, or a cam holder. IIRC all the phase II engines do not have the hex either, old belt or Cam holder.