Gloyale

Map sensor?

3 more bolts in the bellhousing Different ratios of individual gears as well as the final drive. I probably could interchange another 4.11 trans, but it would have different gears so the TCU may freak. Plus 3 bolts would be unused. And since the H6 has already toasted one pinion bearing, I want to start with a new one, not another used.

It could be that the cable is fraying and stretching as more strands let go. It will break very soon. Also slipping while driving would mean a worn clutch disc.

Crappy filter or fluid or both. Non-OE filter may have inadequate anti-drainback valves, so you may have only a partially primed pump until it's run a bit. OR Lower grade ATFs like a DEX-Merc or Merc III or type F won't do in these Phase II trans (99+) Use Subaru fluid, or perhaps Toyota or Nissan premium type fluid. At very least Autozone has an "Import" fluid in there house brand. Still Expensive but hey? what can ya do? Definately get a OE subaru spin on filter (if it has one? Some late models had a bypass cap only)

Harness for this swap is a 90 Legacy. The EJ harness does have a heavier gauge white wire in the plug, that goes about 6 inches in and then ties to the other white wire from the battery. (that's the 3rd wire in the EJ connector....the EA's only have 2) But the yellow wire, which is the remote volts wire goes up to almost the SMJ, then into a diode. It needs to have power on the alt side of the diode.

This is of course to mount an EJ motor? If there are more available I may want one.

Sounds like you were trying to unbolt the Shift arm? FTR, it's waaaaay easier to remove the cotter pin at the cable end, and slide the "eye" off the lever. Then unbolt the 2, 12mm bolts that secure the cable housing to the trans. Done. Unbolting that arm is almost impossible to do without bending or breaking something inside. It's meant to be done only with the pan off, during a major disassembly. And it needs to be held firmly from the inside while removing the outer bolt.

UPDATE: I pulled the trans yesterday and disassembled the diff. The pinion bearing was toasted. Think of it like a wheel bearing. It's actually 2 tappered roller bearings, each one facing opposite so that axial loads (push in/out on the shaft) is taken by one of the tappers. In this case, the load is always pushing back.....the pinion "pushes" off the ring gear all the time you are driving. IDK why subaru didn't put some type of thrust face in there for a more posite "stop" But they didn't. When the bearing goes.....that shaft starts walking to the back of the bus. that's what happened in this case, the bearing wore, and the pinion shaft started walking "back" into the trans, making the pinion teeth only contact at the edge. Well they are worn to hell. It also seems that the shaft moving backward destroyed the seal between the Diff and the Trans body (skirt seal, like a front main) Ring/pinion gearset: $325 Pinion bearing, Seal, and O-ring: $200 Side bearings, seal tube, and gaskets: $200 total: $725 parts. VS> cost of used trans for an H6.....$1200 shipped out of Utah. This is alot of work....but in the end I feel a better option than a used trans. If this was a 4cyl......I throw a used trans in it in a heartbeat.

Alt was bad. I think it was fried by the guy running the car without the battery hooked up, or possibly when we had the External VR installed still. IDK, we tried alot of different stuff that could have toasted the alt. But anyway......... It's fixed. Ended up being simpler than I imagined. Once we had a go Alt. to work with, it was easy. I didn't end up having to remove any wires. I simply unplugged the VR connector, and the original EA alt wires. Toss the VR, tape up the wires(really well) Here is a description for anyone else putting an EJ into an old externally regulated EA, or really anything as the Alt operation is described here: 1. Heavy white wire from EJ harness direct to battery, fusible link wire at battery end for safety. 2. Black/white wire from alt to White/red at VR connector. This is the charge light circuit. This needs to be hooked up or the field will not excite. 3. Yellow wire from alt needs to be hooked to a fused power source. Prefferably a bit away from the battery. this is the "remote voltage" wire. Think of it as a monitor of the voltage "down stream" of the battery. I connected mne inside the engine bay to the White wire in the VR connector. If you had to, you could hook this wire directly to the white wire from battery at the alt........but then you're Alt. won't monitor the lower voltages further from the battery and you may not get enough charge. (battery "full", headlights dim) *Note that the yellow wire continues on from there and should still be hooked to EJ harness.....goes to a diode and then through to the ECU.

Yeah, we are gonna put a new Alt in it. Fully charge battery. And eliminate all the VR wiring. I will hook up a new temporary bulb to be a charge indicator. Once I can confirm all is well, and when we get a new dash, I will rewire to the charge lamp in the dash.

Yeah it burned a fuseible link, but not before it cooked the Tachometer in the dash. Could unhooking the Battery with eninge running cause the alts internal regulator to fail? The guy I did the swap for kept doing that to "test" wether the alt was charging.......I told him not to. Funny thing is, if I hook a test light to the BW wire (mimicking the Charge light) It does not light. I am really at a loss. I think the next step is to completely unwrap the front section of harness, and fish out all the wires associated with the regulator and eliminate them. Then, rewire directly to the voltage gauge and charge lights in the dash. We gotta pull the dash to replace it anyhow.

that's what we tried. But without the VR in the circuit, it was incomplete. Tried jumpering through the connector for a few wires and could get it charging...........at 19+ volts:eek:

Pull the valve covers, and replace their seals while you are doing this job. The reason I suggest this, is that there are large hex sections of the CAM shafts that can be held with a wrench (26mm or 1") this will allow you all the torque you need to remove the pulleys to replace cam seals. Replace the Crank seal as well. Make sure to put he pulleys back on and tighten the bolts down BEFORE reinstalling the valve covers. Lining them up for the timing belt is pretty easy, spring clamps are a great extra hand for holding belt to pulley in proper position.

Even with lift, you can't clear 33's with stock struts and wheels. And if you could, you won't be able to turn 33's without low range. 30 is about as big as you can go on a legacy and even those you will have a hard time when the hills get steep.

Good candidate for an EJ swap. Offroading it would require alot of moddification. Though, if it is an 88 turbo it should have the far superior 4EAT automatic, not the old pushbutton 3 spd. I wheeled a car with a 4eat for years.

BW wire goes to the Charge light I know. How about eliminateing the original external voltage regulator? Any problem tapping into teh charge light wire in the engine bay at the Volt Reg. connector? What have you all done? Anyone with experience on an EJ swap into an early EA81? Between the missing VSS, the fuel issue and this charging shiate, I am having a hard time getting this swap nailed down and running right. The 84 was SOOOO much easier

The filter was a large metal can type, probably from jeep or something, that someone had shoved in there, presumably in place of the original. It was the only filter in the system.

Fuel from small tube coming through the firewall.

OE pump was up in the engine bay. We mounted the FI fuel filter there. And mounted the new FI pump back by the tank. (there was a filter back there, pump fits right in the filter bracket. Any hints as to ho the vent and the return lines are tied toghether would be great.

So we just finished an EJ swap in my buddies GL. 81 model, originally a California Feedback carb 4wd model. When I did the swap in my 84, I was able to use all the stock fuel lines (sans swapping to HP rubber) But with this 81, the vent line coming out of the firewall spews gas at a pretty good rate. Haven't dug into the cab to see how that vent line i tied to the return line/tank. Anyone have a Diagrham of the Fuel lines on an 81? Anyone encountered this issue and solved it? Right now we just have that line capped and clamped.

You don't need Outback trailing arms. You just need the trailing arm BRACKET. The arms are the same, the diference is in the bracket. Also, which way are you trying to improve perormance with this car? The lift and a larger swaybar are kinduv opposing mods. The beefy swaybar will only serve to limit your travel and make offroad driving very bouncy. (beefy swaybar ties the "independent" suspension toghether...becomes "dependant" lol)

Thermostat is in the bottom o the engine at the waterpump inlet. You need to check the lower radiator hose. If it is cool or only slightly warm, then you have a flow issue with the Tstat.

You have an Outback Sport? (Impreza Outback?) I was confused. I always think of "Outback" as meaning Legacy Outback. A 99 Legacy Outback will have a DOHC engine. If both Motors are Phase II then you should be direct fit , or at worst should able to simply swap your intake onto the new motor.

The outback engine is a Phase I DOHC.......the Impreza enigne is a Phase II SOHC Won't work without some mix and match o wiring........and even then there are gonna be issues with the IAC. Not a direct swap

Any time I swap trans for a customer, I flush it and fill with high quality ATF and a can of Trans-x. Also on post-99 trans I install a new spin on filter as well.