Gloyale

You can't get at them from the starter hole. You have to do it through the access hole under the throttle body on the back of the engine. The perfect tool for this is a Wrecnh/Socket combo. You know where there is a socket on the end of the wrench instead of a box end. Ratchet and socket are too deep, box end or gear wrench won't qiute get a good enough grip to break them free cause of the angle. So make it easy on yourself (IF the engine need to have work done, then just pull the intake now) and get a 12mm wrench/socket combo, and a friend to hold a 22mm socket on the crankshaft to keep it from spinning while you loosen them. removing the PCV hoses in that area, and unpluggin the TPS and coil wiring will also help open up the area.

Follow up The trans is swapped, and the car runs flawless. SHifts great, no codes, no noise. So 99 Outback wagon and 2001 Forrester trans are interchangable.

You won't be able to clear any bigger than a 30" unless you make some modifictions to the struts, and use a wider offset wheel. Also anything larger than 30" you will need to doo some SERIOUS bashing and cutting to get the tires to not rub or stuff into the rear wheel wells. But with a 3" or 4" lift you will have no problem clearing that size tire and will be great for wheelin. I have lift 3" and 4" kits for your car ready to ship. PM me for details

They did. It's in the link that started this thread. Doesn't work unless you buy a reverse cut crown gear, THEN flip the diff in the case.

did you replace the o-rings that seal the crossover tube? It doesn't have to come out to do headgaskets, so alot of people overlook those o-rings. But I always do them. I have actually SAVED people from doing headgaskets a second time, just from noticing that there is weepage from around those o-rings. Also, did you get replacement bolts for the cam caps? the front most ones are standard bolts, but all the others have a stepped shaft that fits snug into the caps and located them exactly. I've broken a few as well. Overall, good job.

MAybe a rear LSD, but not for sure. It looks to be a very early 87, or it's had front markers and bumper changed out for 85/86 style. So it probably has a part-time 5spd with short gears, 3.7 diff.

the hex piece is essentially a long nut with a stud in the end, to space down the pan for Outback models.

Need to replace this trans: 01 Forrester TZ1A3 ZC2AA Possibly with this trans: Purchased to fit 99 Leg. Outback wagon, but actually unkown the excact car it's out of:rolleyes: TZ1A2 ZJEBA........... Never seen the JEBA as the last 4 digits before. Insights? Anyone got Hollander or Subaru interchange lookup capability?

It's tricky, but there should definately be access to unbolt the linkage from trans. Unbolt the large round end of the stationary rod and swing it down out of the way for extra access. YOU DO NOT NEED TO REMOVE THE PINNED END FROM THE TRANS 12mm Gearwrench and 12mm socket with extensions are your friends for this one.

Plugs, wires, cap, rotor.

System filling with air(gases) from blown headgasket. Pushes out coolant When coolant is low, and car ointed downhill, the "bubble" collects in the heater core as it is the highest place. Hence the cold air blowing. CLASSIC subaru headgasket failure. Sorry. Good news is hte EJ22 is super easy to replace HEadgskets on, and you can use felpro gaskets with confidence. If it was a 2.5 you would HAVE to use OEM subaru gaskets.

Title states it all. I have a 2001 Forrester with a bad trans (well, noisy grinding in front diff) so I am looking to swap it out. I have a trans on the floor that is for a 99 Outback wagon (should be.....bought it from a wrecker then never needed.) #s are definatley different, but physically they are the same w/same connectors. I have verified that both models to have a 4.44 final drive. Anyone know of any reason why these two trans will not interchange? Speak now or forever hold your gearshift.

M10 x 1.25 IIRC either 80 or 90 mm long

Yeah, youd have CEL and Fuel Pump operation for at least a moment. Plug in the test connectors, does the fuel pump cycle? One thing I did mistakenly on my first swap is I wired the output to the fuel pump from the relay.........directly to ground:eek: It's a black/red wire......all the other black wires in the swap are grounds and I mistakenly thought that wire was the FP relay ground. "Yeah......the Black/red wire from teh relay is POWER, not ground.....note to self." Sorted it out and it was fine.

Check both the yellow wires going to the Ig. Relay and make sure they have power.

Year? Model? Engine? Excactly how are you determining that "all 4 cylinders" cut out? IF that where the case it would not run. Let's start one thing at a time. I say hook a timing light to spark plug wires, one at a time, and observe what kind of spark pulse you get. If that is all good, then start pulling injectors connections one by one. Each one you pull should produce a noticable effect on the running of the engine. I it doesn;t, then that injector is bad.

I have one here in Corvallis. $150 delivered to you in Salem I can offer advice with your swap or even do the whole thing ........for a fee.

This is why HighGuys has made a conversion lift block available. strut top lift block featuring an upper plate that mounts into the smaller First gen bolt pattern, and a bottom plate that bolts to the larger 2nd Gen Legacy/Outback/Forrester pattern. Cut at angles to provide Camber correction. available in 3", 4", or 6" This allows for a direct bolt in of complete Outback or Forrester strut and spring assembly. PM me for info and ordering

Yeah, the cold air blowing from the dash is a dead giveaway. Clogged heater core. During warm up, the heater core and the Turbo are the only "bypass" circuits while the thermo is closed. So if the core is clogged, then all your coolant is circulating through the turbo.

Sometimes putting a "return" spring on the clutch fork will help. There is usually even a tab on the clutch fork with a little hole in it just for such a spring. but yeah......throw out bearing.

Not a limited Limited model would have: Leather interior w/heated seats Wood grain console Power antenna (located at the rear of car) Body colored side view mirrors Gold accent 5 spoke wheels And likely a sunroof (although I have seen limited models without sunroof)

Take off all the covers of the column. there is a plate that the shaft comes through, that is bolted to the collar that holds the bearing. Check that the flange is bolted tight. If it's loose, you may have to pry off the tilt cables to access the screws.

What model and year? From what I know, the cruise and ABS are powered off seperate fuses. your cruise may be not working for a different reason. You could also just leave the fuse in there, and unplug the connector from the ABS unit under the hood.......or just unbolt it's ground cable.

a single filament bulb stuffed into the tail/brake lamp socket will cause all kinds of wierd issues when you brake. Has anyone replaced a tailight in the car recently? perhaps putting a single filament bulb into the dual filament socket for the tail/brake lamp?