Gloyale

as long as it doesn't catch on anything it should eb fine.

Look, the title of the thread is NO FUEL. So, until that is toatlly ruled out.....I am still making that the focus of my train of though for this thread. This diagrahm is correct. There should definately be ground on both pins 69 and 95. Definately check the harness ground at the engine, as well. If you can't find continuity to ground (Zero ohms) on those pins.....it certainly could be causing problems. But the compression is troubling. Are you double sure they are good tests you've done? Also, I'm 99% sure this is a non-interference motor which means if the timing belt is spot on then it should have compression. You said that you drove through alot of wet slush. How wet? Enough to have sucked some water and popped the headgasket? Not enough to fully hydrolock it, but perhaps enough to bump the compression past what the headgasket can handle for a few strokes?

Whatever man......... Seems like I'm gonna need it though for when this pissing contest really gets goin.

no real performance aftermarket for these A good set of new KYBs will make it alot nicer than the 26 year old struts on there now.

You OBVIOUSLY have not owned many EA82s have you? The ignitiopn switches wear out to the point that they can't conduct enough amps to HOLD the solenoid against it's contacts. It clicks, but not with enough force, and quickly disengages. No offense, but you really are wrong here. There have got to be 100 threads or more about this and after all the chasing bad connections, replacing starters, and other goings on.............the low tech solution is a pushbutton. Others add a relay. I personally like having both....in case the IG switch fails entirely (seen it twice) This situation is ALMOST ALWAYS remedied by adding a relay or a pushbutton or both.

He state he only see's a flicker.......and he doesn't confirm it on all injectors. Just says he's having a hard time seeing a pulse. Also.......If drivers side cam was off far enough for those low compression #s.....then it would run like poop but would not ONLY inject for 2 cylinders. I don't think it could run at all like that actually. Plus he's said the timing appears correct.

96 2.2 is a non interference motor. You are kinda all over the map with possible symtoms and diagnosis. scale it back to the original problem. No fuel to drivers side bank. You have power to the injector, but the signal ground from ECU isn't happening. SO........ What is common to both of those injectors? The part of the board that switches both of those injectors ground though the same pin of the ECU. that ground should be supplied by the main harness ground to the manifold......but you may want to test the pin at the ECU as well for continuity, If you can find a proper pinout for that year. If ground is present there, but the injectors are not firing you may just have a bad ECU. EDIT* Just had a look at the ECU chart. the ground pins for injector circuit are pins 69 and 95. Check that both of those pins at the ECU have continuity to ground. If one of those is ungrounded, that is the problem. My gut says pin 69 is the ground for 2 and 4 injector circiut. Since pin 70 right next to it is the signal wire out to the injector # 2. injector #4 signal out pin is #16

I thought of this thread the other day after a new thing happened. I got a customer car in that actually used to belong to me. Last year I tore apart the tailshaft of the trans and replaced the clutches, and the Duty solenoid. The car STILL exhibited some excessive torque bind after the repair, as well as sometimes codes. It wasn't a total lock, just a little brake effect turning into parking spots. Si the customer lived with it, and I checked it over a few more times. So this time when she brought it in, I thought hey......for S+G I'll put a different TCU in it. IT WORKED...... So I put he old one back in to test. IT WORKED NOW TOO:lol: So it seems the problem the whole time was a bad connector for the TCU. After unhooking and reconnecting it must have made a better connection.....cause the car runs great.....no more TB or codes. So maybe you should try disconnecting and reconnecting your TCU.

There is no relay in the factory Loyale starter system. Some people remedy the problem you are having by adding a relay, triggered by the orignal starter wire.

H6 for the win. Since you don't have to replace timing belts......I actually think it could be less expensive to maintian in the future. Gas milage is not quite so good as the 2.5, but it's not far off......if you stay outta the go pedal. My only complaint about the H6 is the very tall gearing. Doesn't "feel" like it has a 6 cylinder in it. But when you realize you are doing 75 mph at 2400 rpm you understand the difference (a 2.5 outback with 4eat you'll be well over 3K at that speed)

The only "garbage" on these systems is the Evap solenoid, and the EGR. Both can be removed, but you won't gain anything by doing so. It really would be best to leave at least the EGR and it's solenoid operational. The Evap system can be eliminated, but you will want to leave the solenoid plugged in so as not to throw a code. Or wire in a 33 ohm resistor in it's stead.

Enignes could be swapped from many newer models. Trans for an excact bolt int you would need either a 90 or 91. Although there are a few other newer models with the same ratio and connectors.

Probably from the synchro on the Dual Range gearset. Happens when the thrust bearing on the rear of the upper shaft gets sloppy. Lets the shaft walk "back" away from the gearset. Most likely the trans has been damaged.....but not impossible to repair if nothings grenaded yet.

ONe side "open" w/ breater. Other side hooked into a PCV valve installed in Manifold, or "T''d into brake booster vac line. Point being in the end.....the only reason the air filter box is part of the PCV....is to filter air before going into the one side breater.....if you have a seperate filter on there, then the other vavle cover port get's hooked straight to the valve. No further need to tie it into the air box.

Heater blowing cold is a HUGE sign that the system is getting air in it. If you burp it properly (nose up, filler plug open, run it till lower hose feels warm and you get no more bubbles) and then it loses coolant, overheats, and starts blowing cold in a few days...........you are losing coolant from somewhere, and if it ain't leaking.....it's burning..... but ruling out the gauge would be a good start. I like the drive while watching the CTS data streaming on the scan tool. that will tell you if the car is actually running hot. However, in truth I'd bet it's the Headgaskets. They can be really "random" in subies with how they present symtoms.

Too many bends? for what? Runs great.

Reed switch is a connector pigtail coming out of the back of the cluster.....right out from behind the speedo head area. it has wires, Yellow and Black IIRC. I scavenged a matching connector from somewhere (ea82 door speeaker?) and wired the match to the black wire to a ground, and the Yellow wire to the VSS signal to the ECU. For the CEL.....I had to remove the cluster, and follow the trace on the board back to the connector. IIRC it ends up being a pin at the "edge" of the connector. Again, scavenge a pin from an EA82 dash harness.....and install it to corresponding pin in your dash connector. Wire it to the CEL light signal from the ECU For Tach signal, and Fuel pump leads.......easy way is to use the original FPCU connector (six wires, mounted by hoodlatch, 3 diamond logo) This is the box that controls the fuel pump. It is made to only send out power to the pump when it gets an ignition pulse (senses engine RPM) It get's the signal from the Yellow wire in this connector.....hook your EJ tach wire to this connector....it backfeeds the signal to your tachometer. The Blue/red stripe wire in that connector goes out to the fuel pump......wire in you're power from the EJ pump relay to here. Easiest place to tap into that wire. You can also use that connector for your IG. Switched 12v source, and for a place to tap into a ground wire as well.

Some can. But all the ones bought from Auto parts stores as vehicle lights are set to use 12v +. Problem is, they only use like .003 watts or some crazy low amount. Not engough of a draw to load up the Flasher relay properly.....makes it flash very fast like when you blow a bulb. That's why I suggested a resistor......something to act as a load against the flasher to slow it down. 5 ohm may even be too much.....maybe 3 or even less....but as long as it's a 5 watt it should do the trick.

Sounds to me like you already know what you want. Seriously.....If you want more travel you need longer STRUTS not just longer springs. The route I would go is to install a set of 96-99 Outback struts and springs. They will fit. You may have to swap your original IMP tophats on the rear, but the fronts will be bolt on. For a touch more rear lift, use Forrester tophats on the outback strut and spring. May want to grab the trailing arm mount for a OB or FORRESTER at the rear as well....not nessecary, but helps recenter the wheel and gives a hair more downtravel before binding.

Not trying to hijack..... But EJ lift kits ARE available right now.

Yeah......I have an old fuel tank level sender that may find it's way into the circuit.

+1 I am guessing 5 to 10 ohms.......5 watt resitor should do the trick.

Well, not hiJacked...just stole control from the ECU. I got sick and tired of my EJ high idling and surging AFTER it's already warmed up on restarts. Additionally, I've wanted to add a manual "idle up" setup for running an inverter, jumpstarting, slow mud/snow crawls.......so....... I cut the wires that ground the "open" and "closed" side of the IAC (pins 1 and 2 of the largest ECU connector) This caused a CEL, and poor running (fuel cut to #1 injector) so I wired 12v o the ground side of 2 fillamnet amber bulb (legacy turn signal) and each of the elements to the cut ECU wires. Now the ECU has a load to turn on and off that simulates the IAC. And it gives me a nice footwell light. After that, the CEL is gone, but now the IAC was "uncontroled" and it high idled wildly. Next step, I wired each side of the IAC to it's own Grounding switch. I can switch on just the closed side to bring the idle down to 700 rpm. I can switch on just the OPEN side which gives me over 3000 rpm. Or I can switch on both sides and get a nice 1800-2500 rpm range. Only down side is remebering to Open the IAC for cold starts, and then close it again after I begin driving. But I can tell I am saving gas....because before I would be drivng for almost 20 minutes before it would idle down. It was annoying sitting at a light with the engine turning 2500 rpms. Now I can kick it down, or up.....anytime I want. I can post pics if anyone interested. Remembering to turn on the "open" side of IAC.........mildly annoying Remebering to close it after driving........Small adjustment Having an instant flip of a switch Idle up..........priceless.

I have dowel holes in my plates. However, because of drill bit size limitaions, the holes in mine are minutely oversized. So the dowels aren't 100% press fit alignment......but........it works.