Gloyale

Just wire the Relay ground to the High beam wire. Done. If you like, you could also run a second wire through a switch to ground, so they can be turned on independent of the highbeams....just put a diode on the high beam line so power can't backfeed to the highbeams. Remeber, relays can be triggered by EITHER the 12v trigger OR the Ground. Ground switched relays also eliminate the need for wire running all the way into the switch and then back to the relay, and you don't have 12v wires running through the firewall, risking shorts.

33 ohm resistor for the win! of course, a light bulb works too.....makes a great fake "load" to simulate the solenoid.

Ussually with VSS failure you LOSE the AWD. If you still have rear drive after instalilng the FWD fuse, you may actually have another problem. (bad duty C)

Is this car a manual? IIRC, the 96 model manuals use the hillholder. And further I believe it is connected to ONLY the rear right wheel. Perhaps....just perhaps.....the pin that keeps the ball off it's seat when the clutch is out has rusted away? Gotten stuck? IDK......disable the ABS (pull fuse) aqnd if it still does it, then I would HIGHLY suspect the hillholder.

Someone with a Scan tool that has streaming data could tell you right away. Just take it for a drive and watch the values on the scan tool. Also, you can just hook a multimeter onto the VSS wires set to AC volts. spin the sensor, and the voltage should rise steadily, or at least give you a pulse depending on how fast you spin it.

IIRC they should be between around 11-13 ohms resistance.

+ one If it cools off when moving, but heats up when stopped, it could be the fans are not coming on. Either the fan is bad or the Coolant Temp Sensor is failing or erroneous. Also, if the hoses and thermo have been changed......the system needs burped properly to get all air out or it will have bubbles and overheat.

No The injectors run at the same resistance and are very, very close in flow. I've run several "red top" intakes on early Legacies.....just swap over the "grey top" harness to the "red top" intake. Never had any issues, codes, etc... No need to swap ECU or MAF

It would be pretty shady, but perhaps someone wired in a resistor to fake a signal ot the gauge. I'd say swap the cluster, and if you see any funny wiring in there look to see if it goes to a resistor. I'm guessing a 300-500 ohm to make the gauge sit right at the middle. man that would be shady.

There is no extra meat to drill into. The EJs bell is a larger "circle" so to speak. Cut of an EA bell, and you have no room for the EJ bolt holes. Cut off an EJ bell, and you have no room for the EA bolts. Needs to be about twice as wide as the original lip of the engines to accomadate both sets of holes.

you can use the whole intake from a red top by just swapping your wiring onto the newer intake. othwise it's bolt on.

In this case, the gouge was not so bad, I used green loctite in a thin film before pressing on the sleeve. If the damage is deep, they recommend using some type of metal filler before slipping on the sleeve. Either way, the sleeve fits on SOOOO tight, that there really isn't a chance of oil slipping between it and the crank.

An OEM rear main seal. Sorry Shoul've taken apicture of the seal installed. But basically the crank is restored to original +.004" larger than stock, but that's still within the tolerance of the seal BTW.....the tool I used to install both the sleeve, and the new rear main is a ABS(black) pipe end cap. 3" pipe size diameter. But actually it needs to be a cap or other fitting that 3" slips inside. Just the perfect size for squarely driving the seal. PVC would work, but is more brittle and likely to crack from whackin on it.

no the turbo 3ats still had 23 spline. 3.7 ratio so diff would need swapped, but still capatble with the axles.

Fixed.... Pics.....

That isn't always true. All depends where the cams come to rest

EJ heads are all interchangable. I have to ask though, you aren't reffering to the original Leone's engine as EJ18? the Leone did have a 1.8 litre engine, but totally different from the EJ engines. But if they are both EJ then heads will be a direct swap.

Punch the pins out before disassembly. Then reinsert them before reassembly

Yup......afraid to let the clutch grab and just apply more gas. IDK, if you smell clutch.....you are burning the clutch.....operator error.

It doesn't work that way. The entire bore casting is smaller diameter. Not just the hole in it. There is maybe a centimeter of material around the bore. And only about 3mm of that is the steel sleeve. There just isn't any material to bore. If you where to do it youd end up with cylinderwalls that were paper thin. You need an EJ22 block to use EJ22 pistons. There is no way to bore it that large.

Your engine is gournded well it sounds. But the Engine is mounted on rubber mounts. For the CHASSIS to be grounded, you need a couple good straps from the block to the body. There should be one in the Front/drivers side corner, and one that goes from the top of the trans to the firewall. Add as many others as you want.

Sleeve ordered I'll try to take pics of the install.

Speedi-Sleeve......okay.....I knew there was a brand name. I haven't been able to find a listing for this application though. I'll try harder today. As far as driving the seal a bit deeper......that is probably what I'll try if I can't find a sleeve. JB weld is a no go here. the customer builds "better than restored" datsun roadsters, and puts modern 240 SX drivetrains in them. He wouldn't go for that and frankly I don't think it would work either. So I guess I need to go take a precise measurment of the rear main and find a direct speedi sleeve dealer.

Yeah but the arm it's connected to at the bottom is not spaced down. It's just as if you had cranked up the tension on the springs.

Hey......does anyone know of a parts supplier that carries a repair sleeve for the rear main of an EJ engine? Backstory: Pulled the motor to replace HGs. Clutch had recently been done, but no flywheel resurface. Customer hates clutch chatter so I remove the flywheel to have it machined. While there, I notice the rear main is wet with oil.....and punched in unevenly and crooked. Talk to customer.....oh yeah same guy that did the clutch did the rear main.........very poorly. Customer had though the burning oil was from the external HG leak (which it also was leaking) So I replace the seal. drove it in very nice and square with a proper size piece of ABS pipe. Assemble the rest and install in the car. 3 days later customer calls and say's "it's leaking at the rear main" So sure enough....it is......so I pull the engine again:mad: And for sure the rear main is soaked (not the seprator....sealed that too and no leaks) Inspection shows my seal install was perfcect.....no distortion....all even....why is it leaking? I pull the seal out and run my fingers over the smooth area on the crank that the seal rides on. I first notice 6 dings in the outer edge....The guy tried to use a socket just a hair too small as a seal driver....great. Well those aren't on the sealing surface so okay........but then..........I find one largve spot on the sealing surfce that is just gouged to hell and jagged:eek: I tested my own seal puller against the area of the crank around the bolt holes. There is no way my mild steel seal puller made that HUGE gouge in the hardened crank steel. My seal puller barely could scratch it. I used way more pressure than I ever did removing the seal, and I could hardly make a mark....lety alone a gouge. This HAD to have been done by the guy who did the clutch. So now I need a repair sleeve that can slip over the crank to make a new sealing surface. I've found then available for the Camshafts:rolleyes:but not for the crank:mad: If I can't find it.....I am going to first take a bunch of pictures, then dress it with a file.....tell the customer it may leak.....and that if he wants to go after the shop that did the clutch for the cost of replaceing a Crankshaft.....I will back him up. But I am not gonna do this again if it leaks. Anyone know where to get a sleeve?