Gloyale

More powerful EJ alternator. You probably just need to ground the engine to the body better. If nothing else put an isolator on the power supply to the stereo. All my EJ grounds the stock ones through the harness....except for the Ig and Fuel relay wires. I don't think you did anything wrong.

NO You can only bore an EJ block to accept slightly stock oversized pistons. The entire casting of the cylinder is a larger diameter on each size EJ There just isn't any meat to bore into. EJ18 shortblock can be replaced with an entire EJ20 or EJ22 or even EJ25. Although bigger than the 2.2 and the ECU and injectors may not deliver engouh fuel. Although it would be easy to use the intake and injectors from the 2.2 or 2.5 and swap over your EJ18 harness onto it.

Sell the valuable Closed deck block and get another 2.5 If you don't want to do any rewiring.....then you really aren't gonna want to do this swap. You need piggyback managment at least, standalone would be better. And oh yeah.....did we mention the need to swap front crossmemebers to clear the turbo.....and also a custom exhaust......stock exhaust won't bolt up to the 22t downpipe......if you even have that. you didn't say if you had a whole donor or just and engine. Besides, you could build this combo and get more power with less boost and mods by simply using an N/A 2.2 block and pistons. Unless you are doing a balls out, to the hilt, 300 HP plus motor....there is no reason to use the closed deck block.

What he said. You got too much spring in the front. You could perhaps use 2wd EA82 front springs. they are softer. That's what I have on the front of my wagon. use the height adjusters to bring it back up, and the front will have more uptravel. As for the rear, If you un-clock the rear torsion, you will lose ride height. Unless you also added some other type of spring (coilover) but then you will limit your rear uptravel.

+1 for that. And Monsaru........the axles only limit travel until they break:mad: If you lift an EA81, and do nothing to control/limit the travel that the stock suspension can produce you will break or at least hyper-extend rear axles everytime you have a wheel stuffed up in there and gas it. Coilovers would limit the up travel, but perhaps too much. I have a 6 inch lift. My plan is to just weld a 3 or 4 inch block onto the factory bump spots on the control arm. That should limit my uptravel simply by restoring the function of the factory rubber stops mounted to the body. Down travel is limited by the shocks I am running. Stock 95(ish) chevy S-10 rears. Now nitrogen charged gas long travel shocks................ EA82 coilovers have been done......but I just don't see what's gained.

Welcome to Subaru. You may just need to burp the system properly. Put the front end on jackstands, and let it run from cold with the cap off, and the vent plug in the upper cornert removed. Once the thermo opens and you see circulation, fill it up again and cap it off and install the plug. EJ22s aren't known for losing headgaskets....but it can happen.....and if burping doesn't work and you still get overheating then it probably is a headgakset. Simple to replace really if they need done.

The lift block on the 2000-2004 models are not just simple blocks. They are bolted to the unibody along the length of the frame rail, and considerably harder to remove/reinstall than the previous 96-99 model. Also, some of the suspension uses blocks, whereas other parts of it actually have differnet dimension mounts (A-arm rear pivot, Trailing arm bracket...) so it really isn't as easy as just slappin a few blocks in. Easy way to get about inches is to simply swap the outback struts. Although as noted, the multilink rear may not be so effectively lifted simply from struts.....IDK......still working on a proper lift kit for this model. I'll post a new thread in the Vendor Forums w/ pics and prices when we have a kit installed.

With just a bit of modification to the crossmember, you can mount the whole EA82 crossmember, control arms, knuckles, brakes, steering rack, and radius rods. With this setup, you won't have any more issues with camber. You will have an easier time finding brake parts, and spare parts in general if you bend a radius rod. adding Power Steering becomes easy. Check out this photo, you can sort of see what I did to the crossmember. cut tabs to fold up to have an new area to drill holes. then weld up the tabs to reinforce. Radius rods mount into the original EA81 mounts. You could lengthen the raduis rods about 3/4 inch as well. the longer EA82 axles will handle it better.

If you're car is an 87 and Fuel Injected, it is a 3-door coupe......NOT a standard hatch ("hatch" in the subaru world refers to the EA81 2 doors) You have an EA82 engine. You need to determine if your disty is spinning. take off the cap, and crank over the engine. Does the rotor turn? if not, you have a busted timing belt. Check this before beating your head against the wall chasing a no spark.

Everybody has there likes and dislikes in terms of what type *** work they want to do or what they dread. For me, running wires behind throught he firewall and behind the dash is easier and more elegant than mounting a new box. But I am good with trim tools, wiring diagrahms, and soldering irons. Others feel more comfortable with drills and hammers, and avoiding areas they might not understand (like the nest of spagetti called a harness behind the cluster) If you put the ECU in the Engine bay, you can tap into most wires in the engine bay (power, tach, temp, oil pressure) but you will need to run wires into the cab for ECS light (CEL), The speed sensor, and for the power to the fuel pump.

Might have been my rig. I am running an EJ18. However my harness and all engine management(intake, ECU, MAF, transistor, etc....) are all from an OBD-I legacy. I installed a Knock sensor onto the EJ18 block. EJ22 intake bolts right on. Only real trick was making a plug for the EGR hole in the EJ18 head. I used a fitting from an EA82 EGR , cut the tube and hammered it closed, then soldered. Screws right into the EJ18 as a plug. All done more or less according to NumChux writeup

There's gotta be just as much aftermarket and performance stuff available for Subaru EJ motors as the ford. Anythings possible, but why?

Wrap the injector wires with extra tape. Put corragated plastic loom around the Spark plug wires. Seprate the sets of wires. NGK only plugs if you haven't got them in there already.

Well first off, 25 in 5th is just silly. You aren't saving any gas because you are operating the engine in a very inefficient range of it's powerband. I had an arguement with my GF over this the other day. She yelled at me for drivng her van 50 in 3rd, accelerating onto the freeway:rolleyes: She say's "you don't have to floor it you'll use too much gas" I say "I was only half throttle, if I'd have shifted earlier I would ave had to open the throttle more to pull the taller gear. It's better to let it wind out a bit, with a steady, gentle throttle" (89 toyota VanWagon) But that aside, you can sometimes get a bit more bottom end with a good set of new NGK plugs. My EJ was lugging and not happy below 2500 rpms till I cahnged the plugs.

Good new axles can handle the angle just fine. It is on;y when the axles are old and worn to one position that they start clicking after the strut swap. I don't install the legacy "anti-lift" blocks. You loose all the extra clearance. Never had problems with new axles. If they are clicking, they were on there way out anyhow.

Snorkle FTW

Listing expired. Gotta love the japanese error message: "The car that corresponded to the condition of hoping was not registered. Try to specify the search condition !"

If you have an old EA manifold, you can use one of the EGR tubes from it to make a plug. It's the same threads as the EJ EGR stuff. Cut the tube, and hammer it flat. then it can be soldered, or left like that. Hammer it closed tight enough and it will not leak. i had to plug the port on my EJ18 to use the EJ22 manifold.

Sorry, I didn't realize you needed to keep the car running with no extra money to spend on it. Perhaps full throttle 4 wheel in the air launches over sand dunes gave me the wrong idea.

Backwards. 0% duty cycle = no pressure drain off = locked 4wd (this is why simply "cutting" the power wire to the Duty C works for a "lock switch") 100% duty cycle = maximum pressure drain off = no rear drive. this is the state when you insert the FWD fuse. Unless there is some difference in how the AUS spec trannies use the Duty solenoid.

You cannot do a compression test without the belt installed. The intake must open, to draw air in, to have anything to compress. Get a new belt and try it. Or at the very least get a decent used belt. the one you have probably already has ripped teeth, which is why it keeps skipping. But for gods sake, don't ever use the starter to crank over the motor with the belt removed or in the wrong position.

You don't need a new engine. The mechanic used the wrong marks for timing. Get a new mechnic. Or print out the instructions posted here and take them and show him which marks to use. NOT THE ARROWS

Just for the hell of it Make sure you haven't just broken a CV joint in one of the front axles. It can act just the same as a broken diff. It is also very possible to replace just the front diff. All you need is the bearings, a ring gear and a pinion shaft and a few seals. No need to throw away a good running and shifting 4EAT if it is just the diff that is broke. It's expensive....but in the long run a better option than simply "dropping in" another unknown condition used trans.

What does "seem OK" mean? Did you test there resistance with an OHM meter? Or did you just look at them? They should eb replaced every 30k miles. If they are red "Yazaki" wires, then they are the originals and DEFINATELY need replaced.