Gloyale

How are you determining it is starting on 3 cylinders?

There is a check valve in them. You have to "open" it to fill them with oil. Use a pin to poke the plunger in the bottom of the HLA while compressing it in oil. This will release the goopy old oil inside, and let it fill. They should not be "springy" when you are done. Should be pumped up real tight....just barely able to compress by hand. That is why EJ HLAs are so much better than EA. The Check valve in them.

Should be a sleeve in the pivot that the bolt goes through. Sleeve is slightly longer than the hole in the tensioner. In theory, the sleeve takes all the compression of the bolt. Check it though, I've seen a few Aftermarket replacements where the sleeve was not long enough, and I had to find a perfect fit washer to go behind or else it would have been just like you described.

Also EA82 flywheel needs bolt holes enlarged/ovaled to mount onto the EJ motor.

When those belts were installed, not all states had mandatory seatbelt laws, let alone Child Booster Seat laws. The seatbelts were designed for kids. They work great for them, as the belt comes from so low over the seat that it lays perfect on the shoulders of younger person. Adults not so much. I don't know about Nevada, but here in Oregon, the law just says you have to be buckled.....doesn't specifically say you have to have a shoulder belt.

You know, EA81, EA82, And EJ racks all bolt in to the same mountings. If you remove the cover plate in the center of the crossmember(some are wleded, later ones bolted) , you can simply bolt in an EA82 steering rack. Then you'll need to cut the inner tierods down and run a die over them to thread the rod further "in". If all you are after is the PS than that would be a good way to go.

That would be the wrong way to go about using an EA82 crossmember. The radius rods would not line up if you tried to shorten in the width of the crossmembers. Perhaps you could shorten or make new/ modify radius rods. It isn't hard at all to modify the bolt hole area of an EA82 crossmemberto bolt to the ea81 body. But to narrow it would be harder. The wider track is pretty nice too. use a deep offset rims on the rear to match the front track.

The unit is the same with one exception. However on the later ones (legacy, outback, imp) they only tapped an outlet to one brake(front left IIRC) whereas the old ones have lines going out to both the front left and rear right. the unused boss is still cast into the unit, but the hole isn't drilled or tapped. Seems as though you could "T" out of that one outlet to hook up the two lines out of the original unit.

You need one from a 90 or 91 Legacy. Manual or Auto won't matter. They will be grey in color. From 92 to at least 94 they are red, and larger diameter and different fuel rail. Red ones won't work. Unless of course, you swap you're wiring harness onto a complete 92-94 intake and use that. I bought a whole intake from a wrecker for 40 bucks last time I needed one injector.

Super cool. These pics make me think he needs either more lift.....or more zzz and more BFH

I don't think ECU management would be an issue. The displacement of the motor would still be the same. Cam Sprocket may need swapped, but otherwise I am sure the 2.2 ECU could run the engine fine. Only thing that would change is the heads. Still vote no for the idea......but the ECU wouldn't be any issue.

I do not like the EMPI axles. They are chinese junk just like the majority of the chain store crap. They are "new" parts sure, but the quality is junk. And the Shafts and Joints are not the same type (tripod inner joint?) and can't be mixed and matched with OE subaru axles to make hybrids or trail repairs. I put one on an outback one time, and it shook and vibrated the whole car at stopped at lights in drive, and crunched and clunked from the day it was installed. just my two cents I will take a reman OE subaru axle over EMPI junk anyday. Just my opinion.

Well firsst off 96-99 2.5 is still a Phase I motor. (Thrust bearing on #3 main, DOHC) Hmm......not sure what you will gain from that. Perhaps a bit more flow and HP on the very top end.....but my gut feeling is that you will not really notice anything signifigant and you may lose torque. The more common hybrid is to do the opposite. 2.5 block (phase I or II) with you're original 2.2 heads and intake. this combo bumps the compression slightly, along with more displacement, and retains all the cars original sensors, ECU, wiring. Others know more, may chime in. Check out NASIOC as well.

Yes, steering coupler will need to be lengthed. A coupler from a 85 or 86 NON-power steering GL should be close to what you need. Otherwise it's simple to cut,sleeve,extend you're original.

It could be an 85 4wd non-turbo. those were carbed. Are either of these cars turbo? and if so how have they been treated? Have they had headgaskets done? Have they overheated?

We can build a 4" or a 6" kit for you on request. Although it's worth noting that without some type of additional wheel spacers, and/or strut bottom extensions you won't be able to clear any larger than a 235/75/15 tire. And without a low range you won't be able to turn anyhting larger either. That's why we make and recommend the 3 inch kit.

Don't get this. If it had an Automatic in it, it's the saem setup. Only difference is that he FWD fuse is in a differnet location (on strut tower instead of in fuse box) One thing to note, is that even donut spares of the newer cars have the same outer diameter as the rest of the fullsize tires on the car. Skinny, but same size around, at least very close. I think Subaru did this for obvioius reasons 1: people forget/don't know/can't find the FWD fuse. A close match diameter wise makes at least short trips withou the fuse in not so likely to cause damage. 2: Manual trans vehichles have no way of disabling the AWD, so for them, a close match diameter wise is even more important. Any variation, on any wheel causes excess friction in the center diff.

Considering the wheel is one of the oldest human machines......you wouldn't think people would be so scared of them. the only people who ever have a problem with this mod are people who haven't done it. His point about strengthened metal at the original bolt holes is somewhat true. I wouldn't call it dangerous or worth worrying over, but it is a valid point. Kinda what I was getting at when suggesting NOT tappering the hole. A tapper can be wedged apart further and further, especially if heat affected and not hardened. just making a tight fitting hole and using a flat faced nut on them will keep them plenty tight, and you'll never have to worry about the hole deforming or losing clamp force. The original holes do all the centering. At any rate I'm sure there are hundreds, if not thousands of Subarus world wide running redrilled wheels. The majority of those are likely less than perfect, hand drill jobs. Search this topic over and over and you won't find a single report of someone breaking out the center of the wheels, wheels falling off, or dying in horrible fireballs of doom.

Never pry. if it won't come of by hand, then you need to tap the 2 holes that are at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock relative to the keyway(M8x***) insert bolts in the holes, and use a steering wheel type or other suitable puller to get it off. Prying almost never works, and ussually bends or breaks the sprocket. Saying this for anyone else reading......I'll assume you've learned the hard way:rolleyes:

If you didn't get more CELs after replacing the Knock Sensor, then that probably isn't the problem. Many things contribute to fuel milage......including the blend of gasoline which changes thorughout the year. IDK.....knock sensors are pretty simply things......I highly doubt you've had 3 bad outta the box knock sensors. Espescially when there are no codes. Something else is up. *note* if you suspect the Knock sensor is being to sensitive, and pulling back the timing too much, try relocating it to one of the bolt holes on the top of the bellhousing. this moves it further from the crank, reducing the sensitivy somewhat (further isolated from source)

Forrester struts are actually about 1/2" shorter than your Outback struts. You'll be loosing some tire size clearance because the spring perch will be in the way. Forrester tophats are taller though, so that may be where people are getting there lift.....if they just grab a whole strut assembly from a wrecker. Not much difference though. I wouldn't really count on Forrester struts to give you any real lift. HighGuys has full 3" lift kits for this car, built and ready to ship. Check out our thread in the vendor forums.

Get someone to hang a belt on it and take a compresion test. These later 2.5s are more forgiveing than the early DOHC ones. Espescially since the car was basically parked and idling when the belt slipped for the last time. (at least not ripping down the freeway at 3500 rpms) the chances are good it can be fixed with just a new belt, tensioners, and might as well do the Waterpump too. Don't get discouraged, got a feeling with it giving way at low to no speed like that you probably got lucky.

Bad advice. sorry. The vac pots hardly ever fail. Problems with them ussually arrive from so yahoo blindly ripping out and capping vac lines that they don't understand. Make sure there is a reserve tank on the passenger side sturt tower, and that it is hooked to a vac supply. There should be a check vavle on the line just before the tank. If that is hooked up properly.....it should work. Worst case I supposed it COULD be the switching valve in the console leaking somewhere, but I doubt it. The way you describe it.....seems like you just need a good resevior and a check valve to keep throttle changes from affecting the vacuum present in the HVAC system.

Were all 81 Brats D/R? if so neither of the ones i saw are 81s. One of them had a tach though.