Gloyale

Turbo exhaust won't clear without modifying the crossmember. And Also if you don't have a turbo, you'll have a big gap in you're system. 2.2 heads will not lower your compression. they are identical to your EJ18 heads. Keep it simple and within the scope of possibilities for now. Just get a used 95-99 exhaust and go with it. Worry about turbo exhaust AFTER you have a crossmember, a turbo, and an ECU to manage it.

Well alot of factory EJ25s did actually come with a piece of hard corrugated shielding on the wires. Really good quality replacement wires have them on there too. I think as the computers get more and more sophisticated and capable thorugh teh years......the more common the misfire codes are. I don't know why......but I've gotten cars with this same case.....over and over......and the misfire codes ALWAYS go away with good shielded wires, some extra tape around the injector pigtail, and seperating the two.

Are you using a matching harness and intake? Early(90,91) Manual trans legacies use a different IAC with only 2 pins. Is it possible you have a missmatched harness/ECU/intake? Also have you double checked that the idle switch in the TPS is making contact when throttle is closed?

You should go to a wrecking yard, and get the y-pipe from a 96-99 Outback with 2.5 It will be dual port like your EJ18 and bolt on to the motor perfect. Those years, the y-pipe section is not so offset, both sides sweep into the center, and then the passenger side makes a u-bend and both pipes join at a flange that the Catalytic bolts to. So since the cat will unbolt, the wrecking yard should sell just the front y section. The shape of that y-pipe will clear the radius rod mounts on your EA81. Otherwise, to use an early legacy exhaust, you can go the route I did, and heat and hammer the side area of the cat to get clearance. Probably destroys the honeycomb inside somewhat, but it works. (I did it with a cat that had already "gutted" itself.)

IIRC, The only subaru engine to use buckets and shims is the DOHC EJ25

He's talking about swapping the EA Trans bell onto the EJ trans. And the stock speedo cable will just screw into the side of the EJ trans.

Hang a good belt on it and test compression. May have bent a valve. Valve adjustment is a locknut and screw.

On both the Green(test), and the Black(read) connector sets there is one wire that is from ECU, and it's mate is a ground. That's it......just grounding each pin, signaling to the ECU to test or read codes. Is it possible that the grounded side of the connectors is not actually grounded? And if there is a break in the ECU grounding harness....it could contribute to causeing the code in the first place. The ground side of each connector is the Black/blue stripe IIRC. Whatever the color it is the same in both sets......the signal wires are the different colors. Try connecting the signal side directly to a ground, instead of through it's mate. See if you get the codes. *I have a long set of wires with mates for the Read and Test connectors on one end and alligator clips on the other. I got tired of subaru code retrieval yoga.

For swapping in the 4.11 diff use the EJ 4.11 Case and Pinion. Mount the 4.11 ring onto the EA diff chunk, and install it in the EJ case. The EA rear diff cover will work.....may want to cross out the 3.9 sticker and mark it 4.11 with a paint pen or something. Or you could just get a diff from early Legacy(90-94 5spd, 90-91 4EAT) and it will be 4.11 with stubs to use with the EA rear axle. easy route

Weld the cast hub?

Your thinking is understandble......and seemingly obvious and intuitive. But hear me out. It's not really the same thing. In the balljoint scenario the matching bevels are pressed toghether by a 3rd part- the nut. The beveled surfces being pressed toghether actually has a measurable clamp force, just from the friction of being wedged toghether. The nut adds force to the friction of the bevels. Remove the nut and the 2 mated surfaces are still present. In the case of the wheels, The bevel itself can't create any extra clamping force.....remove or even move the nut slightly, and the mating surface becomes irrelavant. The bevel doesn't hold any additional clamp force. I don't think you can develope any more clamping force with a bevel than with flat.....if anything.......the bevel disipates some energy sideways into the wheel, and eventual......especially with unhardened redrill holes.......simply distort the metal.

I see what you are saying. However I've accuired a few sets of redrills that had kinda F-ed up countersinks. It actually causes problems when you tighten those 2 nuts, they pull the wheel offcenter. With those wheels, I get odd vibrations. I can sometimes make them better by not tightening the 2 redrilled holes as tight as the others. Or simply using a regular nut, cause the beveled ones pull the wheel offcenter. I've also noticed that those redrilled holes with bevels keep distorting more an more. The nut seems to start sinking deeper and deeper. Everyones drills, drillbits, and methods, make for at best a random temperance to the steel after drilled. Unless it is perfectly done, I am against countersinking.

Firstly. The DOHC EJ25 is MOST DEFINATELY a solid lifter motor, and it is possible you need to use a different adjusting shim for a few vavles.......not likely though. BUt to the point....... The chronic misfire problems I've seen were all caused by interference between the Plug wires and the Injector wires. Get some flexible harness loom cover (the corrogated stuff for wiring harness), and put it around you're plug wires where they are nearest the injector pigtails.

If it doesn't say fulltime....it's not. Pushbutton 5spd will be Single range, part time. Cannot be used in regular driving. Low traction situations only (mud, gravel, snow) This car sounds like an 87 or 88 GL Turbo. not a GL-10. 85,86 would be a GL-10 or an RX to be turbo. 89,90 would be Fulltime to be turbo.

I can top that. I've driven an 85 GL-10, 2wd auto, non-turbo MPFI (only year and model GL with NON-Turbo MPFI) It get's better. I also pulled a digidash in a wrecking yard from an 85 4wd S/R 5spd GL-10..........Carbed.(also the only year GL-10 with Carb) 86 there were some 2wd GL-10s with SPFI It really is only the very early (85,86) years where the GL-10 came without Turbo. By 87 I'm 99% sure all GL-10s where turbo. After 88 you could get a standard GL with Turbo.

It could not have been an EJ PP. There is just no way to bolt an EJ pp onto an EA flywheel.

What type of lift? Just curious If that was you at sandlake in the outback with cut off bumpers....it just didn't look lifted....was that you? If it doesn't touch the strut.......it's not too close.

3at Torque converters will NOT bolt to EJ flexplates. EA82T with 4spd(4EAT) torque converters are the same as SOME early legacy, and will bolt up to the EJ flexplate. Does't help with a 3at swap at all as the TCs are totatally different. Ovaling the holes on the flexplate will be fine.....As Sk'o noted though you will want the ring that goes over the plate to bolt it down.....use that from the EJ. If you wanted to make tripple sure......weld that cover to the flexplate after redrilling and mounting. As a side note, those rings are very convenient to bolt ontp EA flywheels as a template for modification for EJ swap.

Sorry for confusion. The green wagon has Outback struts and a 3" HighGuys lift kit.

There are 2 types of rear shoulder belts in the L series. Early ones from 88,89 GL bolt onto the lower window seal, come over the back seat......and then the shoulder piece clips into the lap buckle. Pros: Bolts into factory holes on the earlier GL models. Low shoulder belt means it fits kids well without a booster seat. Cons: annoying adjustment, Odd 2 piece clip, and very in the way when folding seatback up and down for cargo. Later, Loyale models had a belt much like the Legacy setup. One belt, retractor by your hip, anchor point high above rear window and at the lower sill bolt(same lower bolthole as early model) Pros: Fits adults better. One piece belt with automatic adjustment. Doesn't interfere with folding seat. Cons: Early bodies don't have the upper bolt hole.....so it won't bolt in without fabrication. Kids in the back will need a booster for the belt to fit them.

It's not the CAS if it's getting fuel. The ECU won't trigger the fuel pump relay, or fire the injector if there is no pulse from the CAS. Possibly the cap and rotor otherwise.......Ignitor or Coil

I bolt an old hub with 2 studs knocked out of it to the back of the rim. Drill from the back through the open stud holes with a tight fitting bit (9/16?) This makes a VERY precisely centered hole, and one tha fits SUPER tight and precise over the wheel studs. Then heres my trick. I don't coutersink the holes. I use standard nuts, or open lugnuts flipped over so the "flat" side rests against the rim. The 2 original holes on the wheel I use regular tappered lugnuts.

I installed a 3.9 Legacy 4eat into my 89 GL turbo. Runs fine off of the original GL TCU. (the Newwer TCUs are set up to work with the EJ computers, different values for TPS, etc.....) You will need to drill a few new holes in you're rear crossmember for the different mounts. super easy. You'll need to swap the 4.11 Imp diff into you're original Loyale bellhousing. Then bolt it to the IMP trans. I would also advise trying to make a conversion harness plug set, rather than try to cut and splice all the wires. Makes future trans swaps easier. But either way, the wiring is the same, just different connectors. You'll love the 4.11

He has the 5 spoke late 90's Legacy/Outback rims. They are the same offset as steel Forrester wheels on Clifford. It's really not an issue because without trimming and a lift he'd never fit that size(235/75) anyhow. Without a lift even 215/75/15 will rub on the fenders. Not trying to be a jerk......or prove anything.......I just get tired of trying to help and share info that doesn't seem to want to be heard.

no, it wouldn't. nothing of the subframe/suspension would need changed. all that would be needed is a custom length driveshaft......and actually.......a driveline from an automatic might be the right length, since the autos and the EJ 5spds are only about a 3/4" different length.