Gloyale

AT. Case doesn't split. But basically yes GD is correct. The stubs are clipped in and the wiggle you feel is the stub in the bevel gears of the diff. DO NOT mess with the bearing retainer ring unless you are replacing the seals. And then if you make sure you inderstand the proceedure to rest the backlash/side clearance.

You will use your cars intake manifold and accesories. May even want to swap over the matching Cam/crank gears with a new timing set too. Only thing that will matter will be EGR or not......IIRC, all the AVLS models, MT and AT in that year range have EGR. so no worries about electronics as they will stay with the car.

looks like someone lubed the swaybar mount bushings. maybe they were squeaky?

this is a little misleading. Fronts = 95-99 outback or 98-2002 forrester fronts are the same. rears = 95-99 outback struts are the tallest. Followed closely by 98-02 forrester or 03-08 forester but those have different brake line clips. 2000+ outback rears will not fit. for this OP I would recommend 99 Outback struts for all 4 corners, and perhaps the rear tophats from 03-08 Forester for a 1/2" more height in the rear.

Kinduv a "Chicken and Egg" type thing there. If you'd had the covers, the belt might not have broken. I generally DO run covers on anything that will see deep snow, mud, or brush. And on anything interference like EJ25 or 97+ EJ22.

+1 specifically the TPS adjustment. If the idle switch is closed too late i.e. while trying to use >10% throttle in parking lot or slow starts but idle switch still closed it can do this. Also will periodically buck/surge flat cruising at ~45-55 in 5th gear. Other things to check: Trans mounts U-joints Carrier bearing Pitch stopped installed and TIGHT in the bracket. Rear diff mounting bushings

Operative word here being short term. I put about 1000 miles on a 96 5spd using one mismatched brand/type (same size) starting in winter snow where all was good, but then I was lazy and broke and left it and did many long trips on barely wet pavement. It seized the center VC. Not actually the VC unit, but the spider gears. It ate the thrust washer and seized the spider to the holder. So it is no bueno for anything but a trip to the tire shop. Better option by far, is to run pairs in diagonal as long as you don't also have a VLSD rear diff. Which you're 98 will likely not have.

I have no idea what you are talking about here. Are you talking about the fuel pump relay? IDK not the issue I would suggest check the MAF Connector?

rear wheels toed out. And General tires suck.

be aware that there are small "orifice" pellets inside some lines to limit vac flow to areas. do not replace hoses without checking for them and installing them in the new line. i would suggest checking the acvv "Air Control Vacuum Valve" it is located on the passenger side, under aircleaner, with 3 larger hoses and 1 small vac line. It is supposed to vary the balance of air in the primary and secondary air bleeds in response to throttle vacuum. I guess to keep mixture precise for emissions. But when it fails too much air is brought through the primary bleed. (front tube) Test by clamping each one of the large hose (air bleeds) at a time and seeing if the idle changes. If it does, the valve is faulty. But you can trick it and smog won't even know. find a small irregularly shaped pebble. something that when shoved int he tube will allow just a little air past. Round here I would remove it and put a "T" there, cap the vac line and restrict the air bleeds till it runs right. but you need to keep it there to look stock.

That model uses a "rev sensing" relay to control the + 12v to the pump. It is bolted up above the hood latch pull in the drivers kickpanel area. It only passes power through when it senses a pulse on the Tach wire. (yellow) I would suggest testing for tach pulse at the yellow wire (clip the lead to 12v+ and probe the wire while cranking, should strobe the light) if you have that, and power to the relay, the relay is failed. If that all passes, you have a break in the wire to pump or it's ground.

Friction plate installed upside down? Pressure plate bolts not tight? Did the clutch work well int he car before the engine swap?

it would work for driving but the ABS tone ring/sensor setup is different and not compatible.

there is no fabrication involved. Buy an adapter plate and redrilled flywheel. I, and others here on the boad do harness strips. About the on;y "Fabrication" to do an EJ swap is the exhaust. Radiator there are alot of options for fab or bolt in too.

Did you make sure to actually put a TO bearing in there? Other than that I'd check the condition of the clutch fork. Have a helper depress the clutch pedal while you look down into the trans along the fork (pull back the fork boot). Watch to make sure it's not cracked at the pivot.

The ECU and all engine accesorries ground through the bolt on the intake manifold. The Fuel pump and Ig. relays are the on;y part of the Engine electronics that ground to the body.

yes. I run that size on my stock forester.

Yeah I would source a tank from an FI ea82 car. Prefferably an MPFI one like an XT or GL-10 turbo, but SPFI would work too. However I don't think that's the issue here. I've run an EJ22 in an 81 GL using the stock fuel supply line and the OE vent line as a return. Used the OE tiny carb return line as the new vent. works fine. I suspect schmoutz in the tank, cloggin up the inlet screen on the FI pumps.

cable too loose. all of our USDM EJ engines got both Cam and crank sensors.

So, the car is overall saving you money in gas mileage that offsets the cost of the oil burned.? And there is a light to tell you when it's low? hood opens easy and filler cap is right there on top no funnel needed. So it's all of 30 seconds to add a quart or two between changes. And the car hasn't broken down or given you any problems with other things so.....? What exactly are you all worked up over? having to buy a little more oil rather than alot more gas???? And you are getting rid of it and declaring subarus are garbage? I do not see a logical lead to that conclusion. You will lose even more money on the depreciation of the new car. Why not just enjoy the cost savings? It's not as if it matters wether it's burned off or gets dumped when you change it. It's just old dirty oil. Burning a little of it saves you burning alot more gas.

Speak for yerself. I get mine calibrated by the Cornwell tools guy. Or checked anyway, it's never been out of calibration. It's a click type, but a really good one. I assemble engines out of car so figuring 90 degrees is pretty easy to do visually.

Yeah, I just bough a 2001 Outback limited for $400 because the gates belt failed and bent all 16 valves. Cheap waterpump was leaking from the paper gaskets, but all the idlers where still spinning. Belt just plain broke for no reason. Of course the car has 240k miles, so who knows how long it's been on there. Couldn't be TOO many miles as the marks and "gates" label are all still visible. DO NOT use Gates kits. FWIW, I don't ussually replace the tensioner unless it shows signs of roughness in the roller, or the hydraulic fails. If I do replace it, I use NTN oem as well.

if the holes are too large for the suds just get lugnuts with a "shoulder"

if that is what was happening that isn't your issue. like I said. It is impossible for the hill holder to "make" any pressure. it can only lock pressure by means of a check ball that rolls to the back of the HH tube when angled uphill. so it cannot hold pressure when on flat ground. furthermore, when you are decelerating, via brakeing, the ball rolls forward in the tube. it cannot hold that pressure being made. UNless there is a major problem like the pin in the holder being broken, it is Impossible for the holder to cause the brakes to drag. Mike I would suggest that you have other issues, like a stuck caliper. Or you are driving everywhere in reverse. ??? this is silly. If you want less system to worry about breaking get a bicycle. You are not understanding what it does or how it works so you are intimidated and want to remove it. there are thousands of sytems in the car working toghether all the time. this is just one more. it's easy to adjust, very seldom fails, and makes a dangerous situation, better. (what subarus do) feeling the vehichle roll backwards doesn't indicate anything about clutch condition. It just makes it so you have to slip and wear your clutch more.

I meant in the year range he was asking about. those trans would be incorrect fit for this application.