Gloyale

actually a difference of .01

love to help but those pics aren't showing up.

DL corner markers are specific to the DL quad setup. I don't have any. Saw 3 complete sets of em up here at the Albany, OR pic-n-pull. that was several months ago though. If I had time and money, and a need for em, I would have grabbed em all but wasn't what I was there for that day.

Sounds like either an axle issue, or more likely, a stripped hub. Something is broken on one side, so because of the differential you get no drive to the other , non broken side. If you can, have a helper sit in the car and try to drive forward in Front wheel drive. Watch the large center axle nut in the middle of the front wheels. You may have to remove hub caps or center caps if it has em. If either axle is spinning in the hub you have a stripped hub. If not, repeat the test and open the hood and watch the Inner CV cups to see if either is spinning. If one is, that is a broken axle.

you do not NEED to swap that stuff. In fact, removing the block fitting is quite difficult. I'd skip it.

I just reread and noticed that you say the speakers were in the dash? Is your GL a 2 door hatch? If so it is technically an EA81 body car and very different than later EA82 (Loyale body) car.

It's retained with a bracket. It can be removed.

this is incorrect. OB and GT manual trans use 4.11, not 4.10

Hill holder should NEVER activate on flat or downhill slopes. Only when the car is pointed uphill. No matter how the cable is adjusted. Are your rear springs saggy? nosed up stance? Sounds like in addition to proper cable adjustment, you may need to put a shim washer under the rear end of the hillholder assembly. This will tilt it forward and prevent it from being able to activate unless the nose of the car is truely facing "uphill"

how? You got a mill?

Not a good idea to use one lead/acid and one AGM battery. One of them will be damaged over time. You need 2 of the same type and amp rating. But it looks good. Gotta love the DL quad light setup.

faulty sender or pinched wire (short to ground)

crutchfeild will not have a wiring adapter for this car. You need to run new speaker wire to the front door speakers. Tis is because the factory wiring uses shared grounds for each side speaker set. Needs to be seperated to work with aftermarket decks. You can merge into their wiring at the kickpanels . Pink 2 pole connectors. Blue is ground, light colored wire is + Connect behind radio: large white wire in the dash is the Batt. +, Blue/yellow is Ig. switched power. Black is ground Rear speakers : RL+ Yellow/white RL- Blue/red RR+ White/blue RR- Blue/black Connect with new front speaker wires at pink connector before door. Speakers: FL+ yellow FL- Blue/red FR+ White/red FR- Blue/black

Small. Carbide. For a dremel. https://www.dremel.com/en_US/products/-/show-product/tools/9901-tungsten-carbide-cutter About $17 ussually anywhere you can find dremel tools.

both those tires are decent in loose dirt and even snow, but are GARBAGE in the mud. Basically anything "AT" is gonna suck in the mud. Bighorns are the best bang for buck on the subies. 27x8.50x14 bias ply (or other size) Interco Swampers are probably the very best for maximum offroad ability, money not an issue.

What pistons are you using? I think the 22t pistons will be above the deck if you put them on the 2.5D rods. Do you know what you're compresion ratio is gonna be? that's my reason for de-stroking......lower compression while also being better at spinning up the RPMs quickly. Also the 25d has smaller rod bearings- no bueno Might need to get some 257 pistons. Mine will likely go into my 89 XT, as it's already got a turbo crossmember. But it might see time powering my Rat Rod FWD 80 DL wagon.

It will leak within a year. not menat to have a paper gasket don't use it. Years of experience and hundreds of water pumps replaced are speaking here. Skip the harbor freight and the pnuematic tool. Unless you have a monster compressor, you will be waiting for the tank to refill to keep RPMs. Buy a dremel branded end mill and a dremel to put it in if you don't have one. slow, small passes taking just a mm or less at a time and you will be done with all 8 holes in an hour or 2 tops. Don't be agressive and try to use the entire side of the bit.....just the tip and shave off little arching passes progressively deeper, layer by layer. If you try to use the side of the bit against the hole like a grinder, you will struggle, and go through lots of bits. I've done 3 or 4 flywheels now with the same endmill. It's harder on the tip bearing in the dremel than it is on the bits.

So....this dropped in my lap the other day. Friend was cleaning out his garage and his son left this and is done with subaru's now so.........it will go on a de-stroked Ej25d (2.2 crank and rods) using 96 hydro heads run by EJ22T ecu and harness. IMG_2652 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr next on the list is an uppipe. then turbo.....I've got a couple IHI VF from an EA82. Rather find something newer like td04 but it's coming toghether.

In the US you couldn't put an 04 head on an 06 engine. here, the 06 had Active intake valves, and a crowned piston top.

I love my polarized glasses. They make weird rainbow patterns on plastic screens sometimes, but never really interferes with my ability to read gauges. But I've got a 98 Forrester, and an 03 Outback so mostly all "analog" gauges.

Wow. I was super stoked on finally making this. Had pieces collecting for 3 years, finally said "nows the time" No ones got any thoughts? Pics of what they've made? Bring it on.....I know it's a monstrosity. But it should be tough....all I care about.

did you use hashmarks or arrows to set the timing? Should have been hashes, not arrows (arrows are for valve lash setting) Also, the connector bracket should not be a grounding point.....can run without that bracket in theory. I would inspect all the pins inside the connector, and wiggle them toghether really well and retest.

Market place here on the board is great. I have several XT parts cars and stuff. PM me with what you need.

radius rod bushings wheels toe in during acceleration and toe out under decel

what year/model rear VLSD are you using that has clipped in stubs?