Gloyale

You gotta be logged in to Facebook I think. It's not on my account. I'll see about getting it to YouTube.

Hey qwanted to post a link to my last wheelin trip to browns camp. My camera batteries died (like wouldn't charge died) so I had to rely on others to film. My buddies wife got this one on one of the hairier sections of firebreak 5 at browns camp OR. Facebook video....sorry to those that don't FB https://www.facebook.com/Unnefer.and.Iset/videos/vb.100000313806507/1829128547107588/?type=2&video_source=user_video_tab

You can't tell squat from looking at CVs I would replace them. side to side steering wheel shake is almost always outer CV joint.

from 98 to 97 it will all be the same. trying to put a 96 door into an 98 you might not have the connector for the door lock actuator. you'd have to swap the wiring harness from the 98 door to the 96. but again......97/98 are identical.

If you have a 4wd Brat, You're wheel bearing is nothing like any of your above pictures. The 6 piece bearing has been superceeded to the large, 3 piece roller. You need to remove the rtainer ring at the inner side to remove the bearings and stub. Then press the stub through the 3 piece roller. then press/hammer, the bearing and stub through the back side of the swingarm. Reinstall retainer. you need a bearing like this www.ebay.com/itm/For-DL-Brat-FE-GF-GL-GL-10-GLF-Loyale-RX-Standard-XT-Rear-Wheel-Bearing-New/361740436262

I just span open a large pair of channel locks (tongue and groove pliers) I turn them so the tips of the jaws fit into the tabs on the retainer. They usually spin right out, Make sure to use either a new O-ring or smear RTV sealant on the threads of the retainer when reinstalling.

true for front. Although in 97 they added a seperate door lock switch instead of using the Drivers lock as a master. Rear doors, they added a notch and a heavy pin in the lower door frame. This is to help strengthen the rear door jamb in an accident. 97+ doors willl fit on a 95/96 car, but a 95/96 door won't have the notch to fit the reinforcement post to fit in a 97+ car.

Total BS.

Save that head for examination by a second shop or other dealership. I'd love to see pics of what they claim "ruined" or "out of round" Contact SOA. Complain. Subaru should know that they have a dealership out there scamming people.

Even with a bad engine mount it shouldn't shake that much. Gonna sound weird but how are the axles? When you shift to drive, the force going through the axles and holding against the brakes makes a solid "tripod". If one of your axles has some slop in it, this can cause the weird shake. Although....I am gonna guess that isn't the whole issue here, as that's ALOT Of shakin. Check all vac hoses......and check each Fuel injector wire to make sure they are all correct. Pull the injector connectors one at a time and verify the idle changes each one. If you pull one and no change, then somethings wrong with that injector, it's wiring, or possibly the spark to that cyl, but since you spliced wires for injector I'd suspect that.

I call BS. Big time BS There is virtually no way for a Camshaft to become suddenly "out of round". The journal in the head could get damaged, and cause the seal to not hold. that would maybe be the result of lack of oil, but since the rest of engine is fine, and presumably there is no shavings in the oil, I doubt that happened. There is no way the Hardened steel cam distorted unless the car was in a heavy front end accident. Take the car to a reputable import service shop. Somewhere familiar with subarus, but not a dealership. Have them replace the timing belt, idlers, and both Cam seals and crank seal. Should cost between $500-800 tops. Unfortunately, dealerships will try to overstate or just flat lie about how badly your car needs some this or that, and then will try to convince you to buy a new car instead. East coast dealerships seem to be the worst about this.

Take the shifter out. It's a stick with a bracket welded to it. Use a cutoff wheel to slice the welds that hold the bracket to the stick. Move stick 1/2~3/4" up the stick. Re-weld. Keep in mind, the furher you move it up, the shorter the throw, but the more effort it will take. That's why I say 1/2" to 3/4" is about perfect. any further and angles get weird and effort gets high.

While not having a seal, both of those pans have a box section that comes up flush with the pan flange. Might not be a perfect seal, but not the open gap that happens when one reseals a stock pan and neglects to install the O-ring.

Interesting. I have the exact opposite problem with the rear end of my EA81 w/ torsion bar/ trailing arm.

Hey thanks! This is still helpful. I had figured out that my 01 Impreza and Forester diagrahms showed the ECU/TCU/CCU pinouts the same......so I just started ignoring colors and going strictly on pin location. ***note.....When looking at wiring diagrahms and computer pinouts int eh FSM...........the pin location diagrahms are sometimes "reversed" Pinout charts, Show the pin #'s as viewed looking at the computer. Schematic wiring diagrahms, show the pin #'s as viewed looking into the face of the unplugged connector. Mirror images.

Looks really good. I would recommend some gussets to that notch in the middle rail. You've taken ALL the strength from that area. Any weight there will be hanging off that tiny tab. Don't want yer spare tire or tools falling through and breaking the sunroof!!! Also I love the bumper mods for the hi lift. Might have to add that to the My Lovely Wife's wagon.

I am confused. Seems like at full "droop", the CV should be either close to hyper-extending or binding at the edge of the cup if not overextending. I think of "bottoming out" as when the suspension is compressed and the axle is straight into the cup, into the deep part of the cup. Is there something about the 00+ geometry that compresses the axle at droop rather than extend it?

85 and 86 all RX were 4 door sedans. sometime in the 87 model they went to the 3 door. It's possible that the poster here's car is one of the last of the RX 4-doors, made in early 87......or it could be an oddball GL w/ turbo......since you could order them that way.

More progress last night. Pics to come but mostly boring details. Nevertheless I am proud. This is my most complicated swap to date. So far so good. Most of last nights work was related to TCU. Spiced in : P, R, N, D, 3, 2, and 1st signal wires from trans switch to the dash. All but "P" light up when shifter moved through gears.....thinking that bulb is burnt out. FWD light spiced in. And it activates when the Fuse holder wire is grounded. I chopped out that fuse holder and I am goin to wire it to a small switch instead. Not sure yet where I will locate it. AT Oil Temp light spliced in. Lights w/ key on, so I think the TCU power is all correct. I still need to find the dropping resistor. I unhooked it to feed the wiring through the bulkhead. Now I can't find it....might have to go to a Junkyard. In working on the shift lights, I had to make adjustment to the Shift cable. XT6 cable had to be adjussted to it's maximum to get the correct engagement. As a note about the trans mounting. I used the XT6 trans mount plate and mounts.......But the mounts I had to bend about 30 degrees to match the shallower "V" of the newer trans. Otherwise it's a direct bolt in. Up next on the agenda : One of the most complicated issues. Making a custom dashboard. Using the XT6 Tach and speedometer are both issues. Tach is easy to solve.....I will just swap in one of the 4cyl tachs from my parts cars.......But since my parts 4 cyl cars are all MT and part time 4wd........the rest of the displays would not be correct, so I will need to take the tach unit itself out and install it in the XT6 dash. Now......VSS.......a little more tricky......The 01 trans does not have a spot to install a cable. In the Outback, the Speedo was electronic and driven by a signal from the TCU.....So the XT6 mechanical speedo won't do. My solution : IMG_2948 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Plan is to cut the fuel gauge and the bottom edge off of the Outback electronic speedo, and install it in the XT6 dash. Gotta love dremels.

It's just different thickness and # of plates in some of the clutches, springs int eh accumulators different etc..... But when it comes down to it they are really the same trans. I've used a Forester trans in an LLbean H6 by swapping int he front diff to 4.11.......it runs fine, no codes.

weld the old parts back together. Stronger than stock. I've welded many baskets back onto the output shaft.

Guessing he's got the Carter-"weber" single barrel carb from an 82 year engine. Guy-Rucker, I would spend time learning about what vacuum systems do. Research "air bleed" and "Emulsion tubes" and carb theory in general. Ripping off systems willy nilly will likely lead to problems for you. Books are awesome. Like from the library, read old carb books.

You're not gonna have that car long then. Parts are rapidly disappearing from new suppliers.

NO. GL-10 was the high trim level. DigiDash, Sunroof, Cruise control, "plush" seating. There were GL-10s that were not turbo, however most of them were. 85 GL-10 non-turbo = Carbed 86 GL-10 non-turbo = SPFI 87+ GL-10 Non-tubro = MPFI non-turbo. There were also Turbo cars that were neither GL-10 nor RX. I think this might be what the poster has. So, Shadetree, does your car have Single range trans, sunroof and digidash? If it does, it's a GL-10. Does it have Dual range trans, and checkerboard seats and door panels? if so it's an RX. If it has an Automatic, and regular one color seats.....it's likely just a Turbo GL.

It really isn't too bad. The hard part is dropping the back of the ceiling. Not really even. The harness does make a slightly funky backbend around to get through the intersection of the rear roof arch and top of the A pillar. It isn't too and though. wiper tube on the other side is pretty easy comparatively. The tabs for the clips for the rear pillar plastic can be brittle. Go slow and set all the clips back into the body then slide the tabs into the clips for reassembly. If you aren't pulling it yourself, make sure the wrecker that pulls it for you doesn't cut the wiring,