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Gloyale

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Everything posted by Gloyale

  1. there is no defect here all subarus for decades high idle at 2000 + rpms during warmup. your engine has plenty of oil at startup unless you are using very cheap oil filters. even then all journals will be primed within a second.
  2. The power racks had lines in two different configurations. One of them is not compatible with the non-power crossmember. And both of them are installed in such a way you have to drill (or torch) out the spotwelds that hold the lower panel on the crosmember to remove the rack. Any power gains from not having a hydraulic PS pump will be negated by the added Amp draw at the Alternator to run the Electric pump, plus the additional weight and complexity of the electric system. no need to reinvent the wheel here. Save the fabrication/retrofitting effort for things that weren't offered with factory solutions. Search and you will find a complete setup somewhere, they did make alot of em over the years.
  3. Actually. You are supposed to turn the key to "on", pause long enough to see all the indicator lights "prove" themselves and systems are ready. THEN you start the engine. Ripping the key right to start is hard on the contacts and gives a quick voltage spike/drop cycle to the ECM every single time you do it. I am not saying that you might not have a fuel pressure issue. It could also be MAF issue or just clogged air filter. That woudl be the difference you notice between cars. But you should as a matter of practice turn key on, pause for CEL and other warning lights, then start. On any car.
  4. If this car has a H6, which I'm still not clear on....but if..... they are not nearly as known for headgasket issues. Best (or worst) indicator is if the overflow resevior keeps filling up and overflowing. If you see bubbles coming up in it for sure there is a headgasket leak.
  5. It may be that the down stream sensor is only used on some models of that year. If you aren't getting a code for it it is fine.
  6. Okay Again IMG_2578 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_2584 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_2583 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_2584 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_2598 by Dans Subaru, on FlickrIMG_2606 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_2581 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr
  7. Looks like "1" is rear O2 sensor and "2" is starter wire
  8. they are the same width outback wheels are less offset. stick out a half inch or so more. outback wide fender is just plastic
  9. m8 x 1.25 for removing rotor, one caliper and bracket are removed. As for question 2 and 3. Bearing is pressed into knuckle. Hub is pressed into bearing. You may want to consider taking the whole assembly and new bearing into a shop. otherwise things you will need and need to know how to use. 1. Bearing Packer and grease gun- the grease in the new ones is packing grease. Must repack with disc brake wheel bearing grease of good quality 2. Hub puller, slide hammer type. For removing hub from bearing. 3. Bearing race driver for use in removing outer race, and installing new one in conjunction with a hub press/puller/ bearing splitter set 4. Hub puller/bearing splitter set Must haves to do the job on car with out cavemaning it with hammers.......which doesn't work well for EJ stuff Otherwise take it to a shop with press and appropriate arbors
  10. Regardless of pump setup, you still need an EA81 power rack. EA82 and Legacy are too long between the inner joints to work PROPERLY on an EA81. Toe will change throughout turns and during travel. Others have used newer racks in older cars. it will yeild terrible tire wear and handling. With a simplified intake, I would bet an EA or Legacy pump could be fitted to an EA81 alot easier than doing an electric pump. That said....I got XT6 parts to sell if you are interested in tryin'
  11. well, IDK WTF is up with Flickr. Wish Photobucket didn't screw the pooch. Anyhow......the link works i think. Keep in mind the build philosophy here is kinda like the early 2000's show "Junk Yard Wars". Or "Found Object Sculpture" that you can wheel. So, what you see (or don't) in the pics is made from collected scrap from other rigs and trail cleanup. Sliders on the sides = upright pieces from a bashed 90's F-350 whinch bumper/deer basher (aka Roo bar for the blokes down under) Flat plate skids = rear gas tank guard halves (2 of 'em) from same F-350 U-shaped center frame = Trail cleanup. Swing out spare holder from Suzuki or Kia maybe. Found on trail with nice 31" mudder spare tire attached still. **note, don't forget cotter pins in removable assemblies. The only thing I had to buy was 5, 7/16-14 grade 8 bolts, locks, fenders, and nuts. Drilled 1/2" holes across the towbar. Welded the 7/16 nuts in place to towbar over the holes. This is so I can use long bolts to draw the plate in on install.
  12. <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/152512309@N02/albums/72157687177261024" title="gas tank skid/sliders"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4440/37314075642_118399e75a_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="gas tank skid/sliders"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
  13. that's gonna shorten the life of the CV axle boot. i would fab a shield of some sort
  14. My skid has a good 1~1-1/2in space between the tank and the plate. And there are a few areas with holes big enough to look in and reach an arm in to clear any rocks/mud. And also just enough to access the sender unit if it needed service. I made it so that there is no longer a "hollow" space between the gas tank and rear bumper. So that large boulders that are driven over and cleared by front end and wheels, won't hang up under the lip of the rear end. It will just slide the rump right off. Trying to figure out whether to use flickr or some other photo site to post up pics.
  15. If it's an EJ engine you want a metal gasket. Paper sucks and is aftermarket cheap crap. Factory gasket is metal. Get one from the dealer for 6 bucks. or skip it entirely and use Right Stuff sealant....but for gods sake don't use that paper crap.
  16. This is "pinging" under load. textbook. Accompanied by overheating. This means your timing is too far advanced. Not a water pump issue. This is the problem right here in the first post of the thread
  17. So, I spent the day building a gas tank guard/rear slider setup for my EA81 wagon. Wondering if anyone else has done anything to protect the tank? For as much as I see built wheeler Subarus, I always wonder about gas tank vulnerability. I also wanted to build slider bars so that big rocks don't hang up the rear when walking off them. I wil try to post pics once the paint dries......just wondering if anyone else has done a gas tank skid plate?
  18. Or use a timing light. It's this nifty tool they make for actually doing this job correctly!!
  19. vaccum leak Possibly to the modulator in the trans.
  20. sounds like the governor gear dying. starting to slip.
  21. IIRC both front and rear pass side are the same Drivers side rear door is a mirror image of the others Front drivers is different. Not an actuator, it is actually the switch that activates the other 3
  22. Yes. Lean mixture = overheat under load Improper Ig. timing = overheat underload/pinging.
  23. There are "Blue/green" and a "Tan/bronze" tinted versions for these windows. If it matters to you to match, i'd check and see which you have. What color is the cars body and what model is it? I know White base/L models got blue interior and Blue/green windsheild, and White Lsi got tan interior and tan tint windshield. If you don't care about matching I highly recommend the "tan/bronze" tint. The blue/green makes me a bit ill.
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