Gloyale

Was you're defrost on? If the defrost is on, the fans will run. I don't think you're 95 has an OBDII port for code reading. You will need to use the read memory connectors. They are 2 black connectors, under the dash. Plug them toghether, and read the flashing codes on the dash. long blinks= tens, short blinks= ones i.e. 2 long, one short = code 21. Check back here with the code numbers

Got an application for those RaNCHOS?

The limit to our suspension travel in regards to the axles is not axle length. It is CV angle. I don't think making a slip yolk style axle will help that.

Swap the hose and either will work fine

Said it once, I'll say it again. "Problem I see is that once you cut it off, there still isn't any meat to drill the 2 EA pattern holes? It isn't a wide enough lip to be a full plate, it would basically just rim the EJ motor." I'd like to be proven wrong, but I won't. There is no meat below the 2 top EJ bolt holes to drill the hole for the EA bolts. If there was enough space there to redrill holes, no *adapter* would be needed, you could simply tap new holes lower in the EJ bell and bolt it straight up with just simple spacers.

Gary, Sorry, but I have to correct this. I really want to post pictures about it but I haven't taken them yet. THE LOWER STARTER BOLT NOT PART OF THE ENGINE TO TRANS MOUNTING SYSTEM on ANY year AUTOMATIC subaru trans. The lower starter bolt is a stud in the bell, just like all the older stuff. No tricks. Just use 4 of the 8 bolt holes and bolt on the starter. Besides, that bellhousing change wasn't til 99 MY anyhow

Yes if you split the trans case

BS I want pics

Should be able to use any disty from 88+ MPFI or even SPFI disty. There MAY be 2 pins to swap in the SPFI to use it for MPFI, I don't remember excactly, but they are all the same CAS style disty Only the early Flapper Style MAF systems had a different disty.

Alternately, installing a *lever Vent* radiator cap and putting it in the vent position will accomplish the same thing almost. Although, then the bubbles still have to cross the radiator, and may still end up pushing coolant out the cap. the vent built into the radiator is directly over the inlet into radiator, so the bubbles go bye bye right away.

Without the theromostat in there, there isn't anything to hold the rubber gasket. It's not the thermostat. Trust us it is the head gaskets. If you really wnat to try it, you could gut the center section of an old thermo, and stick it in. Won't change anything. You're cold lower hose is from the airlock that happens when the coolant crossover tube get's full of air.

On the left side(standing in front of car) of the radiator, is a small vent screw on the radiator. I've found recently that opening this screw just a few turns will vent out steam and gases that build up in the cooling jacket. This allows you to drive a car with pressurizing cooling system. The bubbles vent out the screw befvore they can push coolant out oveflow. So you retain a full cooling system longer, and prevent the big pocket of air from building up. Now it is a controlled leak, so it will mean checking coolant pretty much daily. And it's definately not a *fix* just a work around. But it may buy him some time of short trip driving.

yup. I am building a non-turbo, spider intake ea82 for my wheeler right now, we will see how it does.

It may have the funky mini CV joint type center, which IIRC don't unbolt at the center. If it does, just unbolt the rear flange and use bailing wire to sling it up to the belly of the car. there is a Exhaust hanger right near there that works good for an anchorpoint.

Dude, you are ALL worked up over too much S**T. Have the headgaskets done with a Genuine subaru gasket. have the heads milled, but don't let them sell you on a full rebuild, just clean 'em and shave em. Replace you're timing belt, waterpump and all the oil seals. Thermostat maybe on principal, but only if you are gonna spring for a Genuine Subaru, otherwise you're better leaving the OE one in there. If you're radiator is leaking replace it, but otherwise leave it. the HG is causeing the overheat, not the cooling system. got it? To save a little money, buy an Ebay timing belt kit, and headgasket kit. But don't use the actual headgasket from the ebay kit, get those genuine. The kit will save you money on all the other seals, espsecially the 4 Cam Seals and the valve cover rubber grommets. If that's what it's *BARELY* worth, then buying a better car would cost more, right? And what's it gonna be worth to sell with a blown headgasket? So you will sell it for *less* than it's worth, then buy something MORE expensive? Doesn't make sense, especially when you add in the work and hassle of selling a car, and finding and registering/inspecting a new one. See what I'm saying? NO CAR, that get's driven and used daily,...ever is an investment. It costs money. You can't expect to not spend money on you're car if you want to drive. Buy newer car= lot's of money for payments and insurance, very little on repairs Buy older = little or no payments, lower insurance, but.....more on repairs. Bottom line just bite the bullet and fix what's actually wrong with the car. It is the simplest and most economical solution.

They work great from MOST offroading. I.E. Mud, snow, sand, gravel roads. The one place where they are not as good as a clutch pack is rock crawling. I spend more time in mud and snow than rock crawling and the VLSD works great for that. That is why the VLSD is used in the newest and best Subies.

Outback trailing arms ARE NOT LONGER. It is the mounting bracket that it pivots on that is different. Specifically, the outback struts lower the pivot point 1 1/4 inches, just like all the other legacy lift blocks. This keeps the trailing arm geometry the same as on Legacies. Lifting a Legacy using Outback struts work just fine without swapping the trailing arms, or brackets. It is the overall size of the wheel opening, not the trailing arms, that make fitting larger tires tough. A little trimming of the wheel wells takes care of it easily. RTcaravan, have you actually ever done this swap? You should have waited till after you have to post this. But again, to review, it is the brackets that lower the pivot point of the Arms. The trailing arms themselves are exactly the same Legacy vs. Outback. Changing out the arms will accomplish nothing. The brackets only need changed if you are doing more lift, above and beyond the Outback struts.

I'd just buy a tube of threebong from Subaru

If you're car runs well, just replace teh headgaskets and reseal the motor. No need to have full head job done. Just replace the gaskets with Subaru gaskets and love it for another 175k. Don't buy a used 2.5, you could wind up in the same boat. Swaping a 2.2 most shops in Cali will not do.(smog) Have the heads surfaced, but beyond that just have hte gaskets swapped and a n t-belt, maybe waterpump. FYI, if you NEED to drive it. Loosen the bleed screw just a hair. It will allow those bubbles a path out, rather than blowing all you're coolant out the overflow bottle.

This is why I hate drive by wire.

Does that mean we can't bring the lifted Legacies?

Problem I see is that once you cut it off, there still isn't any meat to drill the 2 EA pattern holes? It isn't a wide enough lip to be a full plate, it would basically just rim the EJ motor. Plus trying to make the full cut around with a Sawzall? and still end up with an excacly 12mm plate? Seems crazy to me

You can't use the EJ struts on the rear. To convert the rear to five lug you need XT6 rear control arms w/hubs

That's like saying it's only illegal to steal if there is a camera that can bust you. It is illegal even if it is your car. Hell it is technically illegal to reinstall a cat that has fallen off of the same car. Of course it will work. I was just pointing out why you can't just buy a used one. You have to get a whole car

Those are ussually held by a spring. If it is no good anymore, Zipties are you're friend