Gloyale

I think this "snap ring" he is talking about is the nylon seal. Yes you definately need it. BTW this should be in the new gen, as this is about a Legacy with 4EAT.

Okay, firstly, the oil pump drive tube must be secured to the converter by the clip, then the 2 pieces install toghether, ok? Now. Take a good carefull look at the end of the drive tube. it has 2 notches that must engage the pump. There should also be a nylon seal. it's a split ring, and can pop up or bend and get caught damaged. Make sure it is there, and use a bit of tacky grease under it too stick it down to the tube tight and help it slide in. If you can't find it, you MUST find it and fish it out of the hole in the trans. Okay, so you got the tube clipped ot the TQ, the seal on. Now, look inside the hole and see roughly were the 2 tabs are for the oil pump. Now try to match the notches in the drive tube, and slowly install the TQ into the trans. If it doesn't go right away, you just have to keep rotating it around with gentle pressure and it will eventually fall if you have it all right.

Yeah, I'm thinking a 205/70/15 is about the biggest without trimming. And still I bet that would rub on the rear part of the front wheel wells, and the front of the rear wheel wells. Almost no getting round a little trim. An pnuematic cut-off wheel is a great tool for that. Sawzall can work but it can beat the ************ outta the fender too. Problem is, that with or without lift, the radius of the wheel well is too small to go bigger without trimming.

Did you notice that all least ticketed are gm vehichles? I wonder if this include fleet sale data into the averages. I mean, really how many times is a Gov. Owned blazer gonna get pulled over?

fluff article about insurance data for U.S. cars. http://autos.yahoo.com/articles/autos_content_landing_pages/850/is-your-car-a-cop-magnet Check out #8 Mods feel free to move to Off-topic, however it is about a New Gen Subaru

Nah, I've used the 2wd pipe on 4wds, it works, rides a little close to the carrieir bearing but it works, and I've never had a heat issue in TURBO car. Gives you a half inch of clearance.

Aren't Legacy DOJs made to fit over a 25 spline stub axle? I guess we are talking about using it in an EA82T or with a AWD fivespeed here? to use this combo with a 23 spline stubed trans, like a 3.9 dual range, you would need to do something different? or just split the case and pop 25 spline stubs into the diff.

Use Outback or Forrester struts and you will have room for more tire to clear the springperch on the strut. The wheel pivots rearward under compression, so you can run the tire VERY close to the leading edge of the wheel well. With Outback struts, and 3inch lift blocks on the Strut tops and at the subframes, a 215/70/15 fit. With trimming to the area just behind the door, and some BFH work we get 235/75/15s on her with no prob. Here it is at WCCS X"][/url] "][/url]

Blizzaks are AWESOME in the snow. Ever see the video of Ken Burns on the snowboard hill jumping hte rally car? I am pretty sure he was on blizzaks.

Did you get some bad gas? I've been reading alot of threads from the PNW about Poor milage and performance. My brother went to washington last month. he got 2 tanks of gas up there. On his way back to Oregon and for the next 3 weeks, his car would seriously not go over 45 without being pushed to the max. After about 3 weeks and a few fill ups, the car is back to normal. IDK, but it seems like all that flooding in January affected alot of gas up there

My brother runs 235/75/15 tires on Leagcy w/Outback struts. That is pretty much maximum before you run into a clearance issue with the spring perch on the strut. Now his rig is lifted, for body clearance, so youcouldn't run that size on a regular Outback. My point is that a 205/75/15 will clear the spring perches just fine. I doubt it will rub the frame in turns either. (the 235/75s just BARELY rub) The one place it WILL likely rub is at full compression, if the wheek is turned, it may hit the fender edge.

Tattooed to my forearem

SVX diffs are different, different, different. It will work, buit you need the inner joints of the SVX axles, which insert into the diff.

I believ you will need a set of SVX axles. Fit the SVX inner cup, cage onto the GL/XT shaft and race. I was looking into this recently and had this method confirmed by folks who've done it. search and I had a recent thread about this

well, the pics posted by Gravityman in this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=72899&highlight=open+diff are gone, but it was essentially the same topic. He actually took out those screw that hold the 2 piecwes toghehter and examined the friction plates. the descrition is still there, but again his photo's are gone. * note that the picture post by NumbChux in that thread are of a older Clutch type LSD

Yes, if the AT temp is high or that ciruit is shorted. There are a few others too, can't recall. But i don't think that's the issue. I'm going to say worn clutches

I don't want ot here people arm chair wheeling the VLSDs They work damn good for Offroad. Everyone who bashes on them here has never actaully wheeled with one. Don't talk about ************ you don't know

The one on the left is the VLSD. If you were to seperate the 2 halves of the chunk, you would find the *bottom in pic* spider gear actually is actually a friction plate, and the viscous coupler is *underneath it. VLSD is a form of open diff. It takes alot of *slip* before it really locks. However, in an unloaded test, there is enough stick between the plates that both stubs will turn the same way. But I can tell you just looking at it that is a VLSD

You have an EA82 which has a different type of switch, but essentially the same thing. When temp gets too hot, the switch connects the neg side of the fan to ground. Couple ways to test are: A. hook up a multimeter to both posts of the switch set to read continuity (2k ohms)(ea81 connect lead to single switch pole and other side to ground) let the engine run, idling until it reaches running temp, then idle it up to like 2500 rpm or so for a while. You should see the switch go closed (read 0 ohms) after a bit. Watch the engine temp, if it has gone up say, past half, and the switch hasn't closed, it is probably bad. B. Remove the switch and perform the same test in a pan of boiling water.

It's the whole cluster, switch assembly for Turn signals and headlights. You have to pull the steering wheel off then the whole unit slides up over the column.

Dying coil. Tach dropping to zero before engine dies is a strong sign.

There is a screen in the inlet of the pump. FI just needs a constant pressure, a slightly smaller line isn't goin to affect anything. Not unless you are also turbo charging/bigger injectors/RRFPR, etc.....

Another few "not quite rights" 4EAT does not have a center differential. It has a hydraulic clutch pack identiacl in function to the 4wd 3at. the Difference between the 2, and what allows the 4EAT to be "fulltime 4wd" is that there is a computer controlling the excact amount of engagement of the clutch. the 3at was all or nothing. But again there is NOT A DIFFERENTIAL in the center of the 4EAT. Another miss is the gear ratio description for single range trans. Listed as 3.7, only turbo models with the S/R 5-speed where 3.7 gears. The 3.9 single range came in 85-89 DL and some non turbo GL-10s, as well as in 90-94 Loyales. One more is the listing of the 3at as all being 3.7. Again, later GL's(87 +) and Loyale equipped with the 3at were 3.9 ratio

Replace your thermoswitch that controls the fan. Or just wire the fan to be always on or turned on by a switch.

Yes, you could lengthen or shorten it. It is regular wire shielded by a wrap that is connected to ground. If you could scavenge some extra of that type of wire it would be real easy. Just make sure to tie the wrapping section to ground.