Gloyale

or a manual button IIRC

the adjuster is right between th alt and the ps pump. Remove the belt gaurd, and it is very easy to see. The nut in the center of the pulley is the lock nut, lossen it a bit, then tighten the long adjuster bolt to snug up the belt. As a rule, I'd rather set it barely snug to start. Then if it still squeels tighten a little more. I like to run them just barely as tight as they need to be, so there is minimal side load on the accesorry(alt, PS pump) bearings.

There should be enough play with the wheel extended downward to pul the axle of the wheel end. I'm sorry, but changing rear wheel bearings should not require the removal of the inner cup from the diff, and espescially not removal of the diff itself. I'd remove the whole friggin control arm and do the work on a bench if I was going to go to that much trouble.

OEM EJ thermostats are costing me about $20 bucks out here. Did anyone notice that that ad was a listing for the EA71 engine, from 70-79? Wrong year, and I still wouldn't trust it. Not a place were I want ot try to save 5 bucks

He doesn't need to remove the rear diff! Simply unbolt the lower shock mount, and lever the trailing arm downwards. this will give you enough room to slode one end of the axle off. Definately drive out the roll pin in the axle that is on the hub end. The diff end can stay in place.

Loyales don't have that 2 piece pulley, not from the factory anyhow (MPFI engines only) good guess though I am going to say if it looks like your radiator is leaking and shot, that would explain the overheating. Put the new radiator in.

The five speeds tend to develope that *growl* after alot of miles and if driven hard. I bought one for $250 with high miles that was loud. It's still drivin round fine 50k miles later. I did adjust the front diff backlash and that helped. Got rid of the dead spot between *on* and *off* throttle, but it still had the growl. It is probably in need of a backlash adjustment in the front diff. And furthermore the bearings on the input shaft are prolly worn a bit too. But they just keep on going. If the body is very clean, and the engine strong $1300 isn't a bad price. It's not a steal, and you might want to offer $1000 or less to start, but I wouldn't worry too much.

Some Outbacks and I think Forresters have a VLSD rear.

This is the best perspective on this thread so far.

No offense man, please. But have you ever actually used one to wheel with? Speaking strickly of how the center , AWD VLSD performs as compared to the *locked* center of the older 4wd. I can say that the AWD VLSD is great. We have wheeled the snot out of our 90 Legacy after lifting, and it is without a doubt a solid performer off-road. Now this is a bit of apples and oranges cause the thread is about REAR LSDs. But really it's the same principles. People said the Vlsd centers sucked and I have seen for myself that isn't true. I can only speculate but I have a feeling there is a good reason Subaru moved away from Clutch pack type to viscous. BECAUSE IT WORKS!

And more than that it's a single wire connection that grounds out to light. If there is any kind of short it defaults to *lit*

They were some of the quickest and worst rusting vehichles I ever saw in the midwest. Every single one was missing most or all of the rocker panels and parts of the floor. I blame the big 3 influence in midwest politics more than the engineers of the vehichle. Could have been a fine product if not eaten by cancer.

Swap ring gears and it can be any ratio you want. As long as it's 3.7, 3.9, 4.11, or 4.44

Honestly, nothing here sounds troubling. It is a car. there are thousands of controls explosion per minute happening, and hundreds of moving parts. I can't physically drive your car and feel the slight *surge and relax* you describe. However, you may simply be feeling the Torque converter lockin and unlocking during high speed driving. I wouldn't worry unless an actual problem presents itself.

I wouldn't pay that much for a 2wd subaru transmission. $100-150 tops. ESPESCIALLY having had sat for so long. And it's not like a J-yard that can atleast give you SOME kind of warranty.

Just check your coolant weekly for a while, then monthly if all seems good. 2.2s can lose a headgasket, and it is ussually a long affair before they start to show very consistent issues. watch for the bubbles in the overflow too.

I just went throught this recently. Yes, all AWD, SVXs' had a VLSD rear in 3.54 And yes, it can work. You need a set of SVX inner cups, swap them onto the end of the brat axles. You may need a donor set of XT6 axles to get the correct inner cage. I haven't done it, but I've talked to enough people on XT6.net to know it can work.

Nice work. this could be a good addition to the USRM

For an Outback, or a LSi or Limited. Standard Legacy L was kinda like the new loyale that year. No tachometer, many without power windows. Give it drum brakes and it would be a brighton.

First off, a 96 L legacy would have had a 2.2, so likely it did NOT blow a headgasket and it couldn't have damaged a valve even if a timing belt had broke. I'll bet they didn't do ************ for maintenance. We all know the truth

Belts go on, with one Cam pulley mark up, the other one down. Easy way is to rotate the flywheel after putting the drivers side on (pointed up) thenafter rotating the crank once it will be down, and you install passenger belt with the dot up. This in the end will leave you with both Cam pulley marks opposite of eachother.

I've got a good Turbo trans from a 92 leg turbo. Up for sale if you are interested PM me. Delivery to Tacoma possible.

I personally hate bosch (except for electric power tools)' But their Auto electronics manufacturing has all been moved to mexico, and no offense to our any of our south of the border members, but I'll take Japanese made, or hell even Korean or Taiwanese, or chinese parts before mexican stuff. I ussually just use one of the hitachi relays that are standard for Subaru. But then again, I have lots of them laying around and even spare connectors for them to splice into. It would probably still be a good idea to pull the starter. 3 bolts and the solenoid cover comes off. Undo the nuts that hold the 2 posts in, making note of the plastic insulators/spacers that prevent the post from touching hte metal body of the Starter. A wire brush will do wonders to clean the copper contacts, and will Lessen the load required by that relay.

Car quest carries 1/4 inch heater/coolant hose. No need for them to be OEM subaru parts, bulk hose wirks fine here.

You should have no problem getting to the seal. I suggest dropping hte exhaust off entirely, just disconnect it from the heads, and hte one bolt at the rear of trans, the rest is held on by rubber hangers that pop off fairly easily, the n the whole shebang can be dragged out fo the way. Not sure but I know on Legacy Outbacks there is a heat shield between the exhaust and the driveline. If the imp has that too it will need to come out. Also,you wil have to disconnect the 2 sections of driveline, and drop the front section out of the way.