Gloyale

You should have no problem getting to the seal. I suggest dropping hte exhaust off entirely, just disconnect it from the heads, and hte one bolt at the rear of trans, the rest is held on by rubber hangers that pop off fairly easily, the n the whole shebang can be dragged out fo the way. Not sure but I know on Legacy Outbacks there is a heat shield between the exhaust and the driveline. If the imp has that too it will need to come out. Also,you wil have to disconnect the 2 sections of driveline, and drop the front section out of the way.

I would think get another compresion test. their tester may have been off, or had a poorly sealling oring.

Could be a fusible link.

Good call. The blend door is operated via a cable, it's easy to find. Runs down along where the drivers feet go, just to the right of the gas pedal. Now, the cable operates a bevel gear, the bevel gear drives the flap. I have seen it happen before where the bevel gear set gets out of whack. Only seen it once, but after I reset the gears to the proper engagement(IIRC, you want the driven gear to pivot *up*) I forget about that issue sometimes, again becasue I have only seen it once. Aslo for max heat, find the vac tube that runs behind the glovebox to the fresh air inlet actuator.(it's the only one you can see behind the glovebox, over the blower motor area. disconnect that vac line and plug it. Now you will be recirculating inside air instead of pulling in cold air from outside. Canadian models have a button to do this.

Get an actual subaru thermostat.

As soom as the intake valve dropped from the one cylinder, there was an open passage for chunks to get sucked back up into the intake portion of the head and over into the other cylinder. Espescially when you consider that as the damaged side is on it's "compression stroke" the adjacent piston is travelling *down* on it's intake stroke. Cyl. 1 = pushing to eject, while Cyl. 3 = sucking in. Not to hard to understand. Now if that had been an exhaust valve that dropped it would be different. Or if it had been a set of dual port heads, where the runners are seperated, it would be odd. But there isn't any big mystery here other than what was the first thing to go. My bet is valve.

I'm thinkin the rear speed sensor on a 4EAT?

Sounds good. Make sure you get some new bulb sockets for those corner markers if they are to be your turns (I made my corner markers additional blinkers) those tiny sockets get corroded and stop working if you fart crooked

HBLMAO (hitting b**g laughing my rump roast off)

The EA82 won't fit between his frame rails. Or so it has been said. But yeah, I don't think he's going to mod his frame. SPFI ea81 is the simplest upgrade.

A WRX turbo would proabably be overkill. Especially because you will want to keep the boost low unless you swap pistons. Even the ones on the 2.0L WRX was designed to feed a 20% bigger engine at double to triple the boost you will want to run. It would likely take forever to spool up. can you say laaaag. GL turbo would be perfect and cheap. Only sucky thing is finding flanges to mate, but any good fabricator can cut one out of plate.

This isn't acurate about the cams. There are 4 or 5 different factory cams used in EA82s 85-86 carbed, and turbo use the same cam. non-turbo MPFI, and SPFI each used a different one. 87, all SPFI and Carbed used the original SPFI cam from 86. Turbo and Non turbo MPFI got new, specific cams. 88-94 No carbs. SPFI cam remained same. Turbo stayed the same. non turbo MPFI got a very long duration cam to match the Spyder intake. This is just off the top of my head, but I am certain there are at least this many different cams

Unless you want to modify your frame rails, you don't want the XT engine. By far the easiest option would be the EA81 with an SPFI intake. NOT THE MPFI. Won;t fit onto EA81. If you want to spend a bit more money, on adapter plate and flywheel, you can go the 2.2 route, it's almost the same amount of wiring either way SPFI EA81 VS. EJ22

Sounds like you actually have a "real" issue. I guess at that point I would concur, that the rear 02 should be changed. It would have to be considered the weakest link, if the other stuff is all new.

I think if you really rally you are at risk of knocking those things off. And where are you going to mount the turn signals?

Clear it and see if it comes back. this is a code that can show up from a bad batch of gas, other things in the engine wrong, cold cold weather. Did you have a genuine Subaru O2 put in the front? If not htat could be you'r problem.

Relax, your sooob is a baby still. You got lots of life in her. I work on Subies twice that age, still going strong all the time. I personally don;t worry too much about CELs and AT temp lights flashing, unless tghere is a detectable driving issue. Of course look into them, but it is unlikely that anything major is wrong. Find the sensor or solenoid that had the problem, and fix it. Ussually alot less work and less complicated than headgaskets. I swear CELs are the worst thing ever. Should only be viewable when retrieving codes, cause they unnessecarily worry the end user. Whatca gonna do right?

You might consider taking the valve covers off. There is a baflfe section that could stand cleaning if the ports are that clogged. I wouldn't bother wit the oil pan. It;s a PITA unless you are pulling the enigne anyways.

Sounds like the 58k mil;e engine is the best and only thing to save.

It has a set of *H* wheels like a GL-10 or something, but I'm not seeing any ground effects or a spoiler so proably not an RX

Uh,,, there is only one tank

I'd snag it. that car could fetch 5-6k around here.

Hope you used a Subaru Thermostat. If you didn't, I would seriously go get one and yank that stant crap out of there. The Suby stats pull open almost twice as far to allow more flow. Plus 1 for burping the system really good. No heat out the dash vents is a sure sign of air in the system.

Just to make this thread clear for anyone else. YOU GOT TURBO AXLES! Shucks database might be screwy, but when it comes down to it, the diffenrece isn't a 4wd vs. 2wd issue. All non-turbos, 2 or 4wd have a 23 spline stub hole. Here is were it gets tricky, and the 2 vs. 4wd action comes in. From 85-87, Turbo, 2wd automatic trans(3at) used a 23 spline axle, just llike the non turbos. All Manual trans Turbos used a 25 spline axle. From 88-90, ALL TURBO, Manual or automatic(4EAT) use 25 spline axles Bottom line, if you don't have a turbo, you need 23 spline axles.