Gloyale

Did you consider the trans input shaft seal? They do leak sometimes? Was the inside of the transmission bell oily? any oil around the input shaft?

I'd recommend buying an M6x1.00 tap, and chasing all the mounting holes. It's even beter if you grind off the *blind* portion of the tap tip, this way the tap can chase the threads all the way to the bottom of the hole. When you buy a replacement bolt(s) just get grade 5. Hardened bolts are even more likely to strip out these fragile little M6 holes. BTW there are 3 lengths of bolts. 3 short, 1 longer, 1 longest.

code 5 is the model designator. Means SPFI, MT, Non California car, IIRC If it is showing you this code, then there are no active trouble codes and all is good.

Okay okay, the relay and breaker are under the carpet. The ground for the circuit is there too, and may be corroded. There is also a spot in the harness, about a foot or 2 back from the connection to the PW unit, where 3 (or 5 for sedan,wagon) wires are crimped toghether. They are all red wires, and are the 12V source for each of the door switches. This connection can corrode easily. It's wrapped up in tape, just about directly in the middle of the passenger seat floor, right were your feet would go if the seat is slid all the way back. BUT WAIT! don't dig into the whole interior until you test for power going to the door. Pull the kick panel on the drivers side. Locate the 2 pole connector, with a Red and a Black wire, Heavier gauge than most of the other wires. Test the red wire for 12V with the key on. If you have power there, then the issue is in the door harness(I've seen wires break from bending with door opening and closing) If you do not have power on that wire, THEN start digging under the carpet.

True and false. 87 was the first year of optical Disty, but even the earlier ones had a screw in the rotor. I know, I had an 86 GL-10 Turbo that baffled me for nearly a month, until I accidentally bumped the rotor while the cap was off, and it spun freely. So my next question, to the OP, is the screw that holds the rotor still in place?

The top ear of the starter is held by one of the bolts that holds the engine and transmission toghether. So yes, you really should replace that bolt. There is not supposed to be a stud there. It is a bolt. The bolt should also go through a bracket that has the main NEG battery cable attached to it. The bolt size is an M10x1.25, about 80-100mm long. The hole in the trans bell has no threads, the threads are in the bell of the engine, so you can't see them when you are looking at the hole with the starter out. It may be a good idea to run the bolt in and check that the threads are OK before mounting the starter, but they are likely fine.

I just replaced HGs in a 97 Leg Outback w/2.5. Id had the excact same symptoms. Eventually you will run low on coolant, your heater core and the top parts of the engine get a big *air* pocket in there, you get no heat out the vents, while the motor pegs the temps gauge into the red. Good news is the 2.2 is SOOOOOOO easy to work on.

First, verify that you're timing belt is still intact and hasn't slipped. Easy way is to remove the drivers side end cover, and the inspection cap at the rear of the block. Line up the center of the 3 TB location marks, and the dot at the top of the Cam pulley. If that is good, see below. This is 99% conclusive that you have a defective or incorrect Cap and/or Rotor. If the spark is going into the disty, but not coming out, has to be one of those 2 items unless you have a broken or slipped timing belt. See above. Even with a slipped belt, the Cam and disty would have to have gotten out of time to cause this and that could only happen if the disty was removed, or it's drive gear sheared(highly unlikely) You're green test connectors are hooked toghether. You should hear the fuel pump running in time with the light blinking. Unplug them to take the car out of D-check or *Test* mode.

It's a differential, the power goes to the path of least resistance, Front or rear. If you are taking off in a straight line with traction at all 4 wheels, all 4 wheels get the same drive. If a rear wheel slips, power drops off to all wheels until VC kicks in, then power is shifted forward. If a front wheel slips, VC kicks in and sends power to the rear. There is not an inherant bias towards the front as there is on the Automatics. *DCCD* excluded.

For all the talk of how easy those diffs are to find, I've actually only ever seen a few for sale, and they are ussually expensive, or worn out, or both. I happened to get the opportunity to trade some wheels for a couple of SVX diffs. That is the only reason I am thinking about this conversion. And IIMO, it takes more than *10 minutes* to swap ring gears and install in the car, LOL

I'm thinking that looks mostly like surface rust. It's obviously not ideal, but I would wager it would be fine. I've seen newly machined blocks, that didn't get oiled well enough, end up nearly the same. A light wipedown and they were fine. I'd soakit with WD-40, then wipe clean with a shop towel or soft cloth. If there are still areas with rust after that, then a very light scrubing with the back side of a dish sponge should do the trick. Once you've got it mostly clean, rotate the crank and drop each piston down as far as it will go and wipe it all out again. Repeat for other cylinder.

Okay, what about cutting the ends off a set off SVX axles and having them machined into splined stubs like old gen style? Probably not correctly hardened and/or hardened. Well, crap.

Can anyone tell me how easy it is to convert the SVX diff for use in a first gen Legacy? I know the ring gear needs swapped, but what about the axle stubs? how feasible is it to put the SVX LSD chunk into the legacy housing? use the Legacy Stubs? Or would we have to make some hybrid SVX axles?

It's lower than a 99% chance. I'd say it's more like %60. But whatever. It can't hurt to hang a used belt on it and see what he gets. You can't get a GOOD EJ of any kind around here for less than $500-600. The yards here in the NW aren't full of rusty junk. They ask top dollar for there stuff. To the OP, put a belt on it and see what you get before making any decisions. only way to make an informed decision

It is bolted to the bottom of both heads. Has to come out, or at least come down some, to allow the heads to come off.

the hardline from the back of the head is the oil supply. The short rubber line between trubo and lower rear of head is the oil return. The *uppipe* is the exhaust piece that goes form the heads into the turbo. Always Do both headgaskets at the same time.

I'll respectfully disagree.

My question too. I always unbolt the TC fromt eh flexplate. If the TC has been removed formt eh trans, I find it easier to install it first, with the engine out. Then install the engine. Then bolt the TC and flexplate toghether through the access hole, after mating engine to trnasmission.

The oil cooler line that runs to the drives side is over there. Also the heater core hoses could be dripping down in that area. Otherwise, it is always possible that a leak on the top side of the motor could be blown back over the block, and run down onto the rear portion of engine.

I've had several EJ25s come in with slipped belts, and be fine after hanging a new one. It is just a luck of the draw thing. If you shut it down quickly after it slipped you may have gotten lucky. This is what I would do if you brought the car to my shop. I would first pull a used pulley and and belt out of my junk pile. Then I would install them on the engine. At that point both a compression test, and a leakdown could be done. Heck, you could even just fire it up at that point and see how she runs. Now you can make informed descisions on where to go from there

This is so rediculous I almost don't want to touch it. But for the benifit of others reading this: There absolutely are no less than 3 seperate oil passages PER HEAD that are sealed by the headgasket. 1 oil supply to the heads (pressurized) and 2 return chambers, at the bottom of the heads (non pressurized). The passages at the bottom , the gasket is immersed continually in oil, and eventually it seeps between the layers of steel in the gasket.. I personally have not seen an EJ25 of any phase leaking coolant externally. But I guess that can happen too.

I would never suggest headgasket replacemet, for an external leak, without thouroughly checking for any other leaks. That's an expensive leap of faith.

I just don't see it happening to a car with only 30k. And Ussually the External leaks are oil, not coolant. I'm going to bet on a hose leak. There are several likely places to look. 1. The two hoses that run through the *oil cooler* underneath. 2. Heater core hoses. 3. Water pump bypass hose. And lastly check the area where the coolant crossover pipe bolts to the block, either o-ring could be leaking.

Drastic difference in Hose temps are often a sign that there is a cheap thermostat in there. I'd start by replacing that with a Genuine Subaru one. There is a BIG difference in construction and operation. Beyond that, it isn't absolutely nessecary to pull the engine, but it really helps. The DOHC heads are so big it's very hard to get them out. Plus the bolts hit the framerail when you try to slide them out, so you end up having to unbolt the motor mounts and lifting the engine a tad anyway. For 2.2 I leave engine in car, for DOHC 2.5 I pull them.

There is a hole in the front of the unit. Front being the skinny face that is closest to the driver. The light is kinduv down inside the hole. Look harder, it is there. If it isn't lighting at all, you have a lack of power to the ECU.