Gloyale

Sedan/wagon/3-door all the same. You may have got an EA81 caliper. Possible if someone puts a EA81 knuckle on an EA82 car. Works but isn't correct.

Depends on the Carb/FI setup. If it's a feedback carb......I would just unplug the stupid ECU and Probably not doing squat anymore anyhow. But uh...ussually in the "emissions control" section of the FSM's. Oh and if the green diagnostic connectors are hooked up (or the black read ones) you will get the light coming on. Unplug them for normal driving

There is no way to safely tow 5000 lbs with a subaru. Only the 6cyl would realistically have the power......and those only came automatic so that's not good for 5000lbs. Even with a trans cooler. And the bigger issue, is that the subaru unibody isn't made for pulling 5000lbs......you would need to add signifigant reinforcement between subframe pieces, and then tie the tow hitch to that. Don't get me wrong, it can work, I've pulled 6000 lbs with a EJ swapped GL wagon......but it wasn't safe, i didn't go far, and It was hard on the car, had to replace springs and shocks in rear after. I consider now 3500lbs my safe weight limit for towing with the H6 LLbean. It's the rating on the hitch too.

front is easy. It is the back that's hard. The rear cradles, and the trailing arm mounts would be complicated, but doable.......there are enough mounting points, close to where they need to be on both the EA81 nad EA82 bodies........BUT..... There is nowhere on the EA chassis to mount the upper strut perches. Requires ALOT of fabrication, cutting out of the wheel wells, possible crossbracing in the trunk area to actually have any strength. Just lift the Legacy.

should be a 20 amp not a 25 and according to FSM door lock is only thing on that circuit

No an EA82 kit will not work with a 4spd. Step on flywheel wrong, Spline in disc wrong, Throwout wrong size. You need a kit for a late model brat. 225mm disc, 7/8th" shaft........83+ I'd look it up as an 84...so you don't overlap the EA82 stuff That 4spd won't hold up to a 2.2 for long. Save the headache and get a 5spd D/R or an AWD EJ 5spd.....

pretty sure those bolts are M10, not M12 And as for the caliper not lining up. How long have you had the car? Who did the brakes last? Who would have been the last to touch the caliper? Is it Possible that it's got an EA81 caliper on it?

Most everything will be the same chassis wise. Differences include changes to the headlight switch, and wiper switch (stalk mounted in 88, dash mounted in 86) Also, there is a section on SPFI in the 86 book, but the wiring on the early systems is slightly different.....notably the wiring to the distributor. The pins shown at teh ECU for reference and signal pulse from the disty are flipped on the 88 from what is shown. (changed after 87) Headlight adjuster slightly different But that 86 FSM will be better than a haynes or chiltons anyday.

either that or cut/sleeve and extend the D/R linkage a short amount.

GL/ loyale/brat all the same. Any EA series subaru, YOU CANNOT safely roll the car AT ALL without an Axle stub installed throught the hub. If you do, the on;y thing keeping the hub from coming off is the brake caliper bracket pinning the rotor. EA bearings are not like other cars where the hub is pressed intot eh bearing, on an EA car the hub is held "ONLY" by the large center castle nut. Without that, the hub just slides off, and since the wheel bolts to the hub......yah So for all future reference.......DO NOT ROLL AN EA CAR WITHOUT BOTH AXLES** installed in the front end. **Note an outer end axle stub with shaft removed can be used for rolling or RWD conversion

well, you are only talking a 400 RPM difference. and I would bet that the MPFI still makes the same 101 Ft/lbs at 2800rpm as the SPFI......just keeps making a bit more up to 103 at 3200rpm It get's a bit wonky with trans....4cyl, MPFI non-turbo XT got 3.7 final and just one OD gear (.871) in fifth. Same as the 3.9 SPFI trans Only turbos and XT6 got the double OD gears.....(.972 in 4th, .780 in 5th) Turbos in 3.7 final (some Single range, some Fulltime w/ difflock, and R/X with fulltime w/ difflock) and XT6 in 3.9 (fulltime 4wd w/difflock)

wouldn't they still have needed to give him some sort of notice? Reciept? Aslo curious why you would chose to comment on this now? Psyko is a nice guy, Why the need to accuse that he's been in Jail 4 years after the fact? Oh and are you the one who was stockpiling autozone "warranty" axles near pine city? I remember someone was scamming autozone 'round there?

doesn't matter what trans you have in there, if it's a pushbutton or D/R 5spd or if it's a 3AT, they all use the same EA82- non-turbo axle. 23 spline.

just ditch it. not needed

scrap that car

Per 1988 FSM EA82 SPFI = 90 horsepower at 5200 rpms........ and 101 ft/lbs torque at 2800 rpms XT MPFI non-turbo 97 horsepower at 5200 rpms......and 103 ft/lbs torque at 3200 rpms and all XT 4 cyl got 3.7 gears.....taller, not shorter than the standard EA82. worth noting that those factory MPFI have 9.5:1 compression, not 7.7 like the turbos or a neutered turbo with dished pistons....as could be Jonos case?

Manual trans is a 5 minute fix......auto trans it might take 10. 1.5 hours is rediculous

this looks like leaking intake gaskets

These are on;y for 2.5 liter. Fire ring too large for EJ22. Could be used for a "frankenmotor" 2.5 block w/2.2 heads though.

Cam profiles changed in 95. The rockers are roller follower instead of solid. So the Cam needs to stay matched. so you will want to swap over the cam, and rockers from the current engine onto the older head. If you go that route and the thread insert doesn't work.

The cups can be replaced with units from first gen legacy rears also.

it just locks the outer race into the arm. doesn't set any preload, as long as it is "zero'd" up snug, it doesn't matter. as long as the outer race is pinned in tight in the housing. So glad I have the special tool. I got it from ZDMak tools, which is still around making specialty tools, but they don't list that one anymore. Perhaps a phone call and they could dig some up or make another run.

there is only one oil passage in the headgasket per side. If those were blocked, there would be no oil at all to one side. You can't really put it on wrong as it slips over teh dowels. Doubtful the problem is at the HG. The HLA's get their oil from the cam case passages. It goes into the case through the first one, then back down to the HLA gallery throuhg the second, back up into the cam case through the third to the relief valve passage. So they need to be sealed well definatley the first 2 anyhow. Replace those o-rings. I wouldn't bother pulling the headgaskets, unless your mechanic F-ed something up and knows it. I would guess if the engine runs strong, the HG's are fine and the trouble is in the Cam case O-rings.

No. One is the output from pump to oil filter, the other is the return from oil filter and all goes out from there. And Passenger side get's it first. My guess is the O-ring that seals the passenger side Cam case to the head, or the headgasket itself at the oil passage.

depending on the A/C system, there are 2 different lengths of water pumps. an incorrect one will result in belt deflecting about 5mm (half a belt width) and will ruin belts quickly not sure if that's the issue. If not, I would check all the pulleys....Power steering, AC, Alternator, waterpump.