Gloyale

On a DD I wouldn't run the belt til it breaks. So yeah, interference is not a big deal if you do the belt and idlers on time. Still, things happen, and knowing that one less thing could go wrong and cost money (valve bending) is reassuring. But on my wheeler....belt issues happen. The mud and water get's in the idlers....water pumps wear out. I carry a spare belt and a precompressed tensioner. even with removeing the covers, I can change it out in under an hour.

I wholeheartedly disagree. Rings, bearings, oil pumps gaskets etc are still readily available. Rebuilding a 2.2 is no more costly than properly doing up a sohc 2.5. Many can do with just rings and gaskets, which you are talkin about doing to almost any sohc 2.5 to trust it. And then you've still got he interference. I think the 2.2 in a 98 forester is a great combo, and still reasonable for the next 5-10 years. I don't even notice the missing ponies in my forester, and I love the fact that it's non-interference.

98 is the only year forrester that you can directly "plug n play" swap an 2.2 into. a 95 EJ22 fro an automatic car is the perfect swap, in that it has both EGR and Dual port exhaust. If you want to swap exhaust to single port you can use 96-98 EJ22, with or without EGR. They will both run fine but you will get code if no EGR. 90-94 EJ22 can also be used, and are dual port so that's a plus, but you will need a newer manifold or swap the EJ25D wiring harness onto the EJ22 intake. 99+ forrester with SOHC 2.5 won't accept an older phase I 2.2 liter. Could be done with swapping Throttle bodies and wiring and such, block off plates, repinning connectors......but individual setups would vary and likely have no idle control, codes, etc.

worn or gone shifter bushings

small hose from block to thermostat housing small hose from base of carb, over manifold and to the heater supply line.

2wd or 4wd? they are different. and also chrome 3 piece or one piece skin over frame type? In my experince the 4 bolts for a 4wd front bumper are 14mm head, m10x1.25. If it's a 3 piece, you can leave the sides attached to fender and slide off the center portion. On a one piece, you must undo the 1 or 2 10mm head(m6) bolts from the inside of fender. don't forget the turn signal wire plugs. before pulling.

nah wagons don't have a pull cable for the tailgate. someone must have replaced the pull with one from a sedan. you will need to remove the interior panel parially. just pull it out around the top edge. the bottom edge is pinned by clips in the seem, so you will only be able to pull the top of the panel outward, and reach down to the latch mechanism inside at the bottom.

that shift linkage is bent. perhaps the stay rod is bent too? the 5spd shift portion is swappable S/R vs. D/R it's just the hi/lo 4wd lever thats different

yes but the input flange may be different. 2000 larger. swap those and should work.

+1

yes if you put an EJ engine in also.

the 6 pins make kinduv a "U" pattern the 2 pins at the ends of the "U" are the coil for the relay control. the other 4 pins, 2 on one side are the 12v coming from fusible link box, and the other 2 are the out to ECU and engine. so if you jumper across the 2 sides of the "U" you can bypass the relay.

90-96 EJ22 would be the engine you want for durability, not so much for all out power (130 hp, still more than peppy in a bug) I would find one that seems well cared for (i.e. had regular oil changes) but is perhaps leaky now, and do a full reseal and maybe even new rings before the install. Use a new timing belt set and a good alternator, and you will never have to worry about anything. If you source a donor car and pull the harness, I can thin it down for you for a small fee.

for removal yes. new bearing installs from the inner side of the arm, so then you will be hammering out. Make sure to keep the old race centered on the new as you drive it.

the axle comes apart from the inner end. You can't properly do just the outer boot

I do them On car. I take the axle, and the back side locknut out first. I've got he tool, but punch works. then hammer the stub out, sometimes it brings the outer race with. If not, I use the back edge of the 36mm socket and a Big hammer and hammer out the old outer race. I take the stub, and the new bearing to the press. If the old bearing came out with, use the press to remove it from the stub. Pack new bearing with grease. Clean stub. Use press to install stub through the new bearing. clean old outer race. Clean the Arm well enough to not get new bearing grease dusty while pounding. use old outer race as a driver to hammer the whole stub, bearing assembly into the arm. put the 36mm nut over the end to prevent outerend bearing from popping out. sometimes happens. once bearing/stub are installed, reinstall the backing ring nut and seal. install outer seal and reassemble hubs/brakes.

Did you try to use the full EJ harness or just running the engine wiring? Really can't understand why anything to do with headlights or radio would not work if you just used the thinned down engine harness. Did you pull the dash to install wiring? maybe forgot a connector?

You are resealing. Which is great. And What I say next is not meant to be any discouragement. But it's not a rebuild. And when selling a car if you described it as having a "rebuilt" engine you would be lying. Rebuild would be new piton rings and new rod and main bearings, and a valve job on the heads to be even close. ideally, it would also include resurface of block and heads, and a new oil pump.....which aren't available so it's basically not possible to truely rebuild an EA82. Again....not knockin yer project. have fun, learn. But realistically you aren't gonna get any benifit out of trying to go all out to restore this engine......not worth it. Throw it back toghether with new gaskets, new spark plugs, fresh cap and rotor and then enjoy it. You aren't gonna make it any better than what it is.

you must remove the from the trans stub then remove the inner joint from the axle shaft. Large clip around the inside lip of the cup comes out, then cup slips off the cage. Then small snapring holds the star race to the shaft.....remove it. Then you can slide off the star race. Now you can slide the outer end boot off and slide new one on and clamp. reassemble. PITA in the car. Not so much of the axle is out.

you could check the gauge working uising a few resitors. look at the specs for half full and full resistance, and get a few close resitors and put them in place of the sender and see what the needle reads.

Dash display that shows which doors open. Probably just the clock memory on that circuit, and the display of the clock is on Ig. switched circuit.

98 S model Drop a EJ22e in it done. Sunroof.....meh.

no need to remove the dash. it is possible. Give it the reach up in. best way. Reach up from the right of the column, over the column. The cable end just pushes on.

look at the seams between the head and block. specifically the rearward edge on the drivers side, and the frontward edge of the passenger side. Basically the lower righthand corner of each head.....that's where the leak externally.

FSM list of things on that circuit Stop light Trunk room light Door pilot clock Any chance the trunk light wires or switch have a short? pinched in the hinges?