Gloyale

my guess is that you didn't get teh selector rod "finger" engaged in the slotted ends of the 3 shift fork rods. Or something to check before dismantling the box, is perhaps an off chance you forgot the crush washer on the reverse or nuetral switches? that would jam the switch into the selector rods' notches and hold it from sliding fore/aft.

you must unplug the electric motor before manually winding the buckets up/down or the limit switches kick in and try to fight the bucket back up/down, were ever the switches are set to..

I'm trrying to save you headache.......Not dissing on yer fun, but you are going to wear out the bearing and going to tear the seal out of that new rack. If you aren't stretching the shaft, it means you have the knuckle so barely on the end of the steering column as to be unsafe......it's yer steering man......no joking. Get a longer coupler in there.

I would fix the bolt issue before installing and filling that trans. The pan seam is submerged when full. Without a bolt there, it will leak. It's out now. Best time to fix it. oh and you don't have to remove the axles. just drive the pins out, and once the trans begins to come out/down about 2 inches, you can slide them off.

OE only. And ALWAYS resurface the heads on a 2.5d Felpro is hit and miss.....they rebox stuff from many different sources.

You may have just been seeing the rise in compression from adding a volume of non-compressable fluid to the cylinder. This effectively shrinks the chamber volume, bumping compression ratio. careful...too much oil for a wet test can hydro lock the cylinder, just like sucking water.

You will absolutely need a longer steering coupler. If you don't you will be pulling up on the input shaft of the steering rack....it will leak like a pig in short order. If you could even get it to fit and steer.

wet test wont really work on flat engine.....oil goes to the bottom only, top of rings stay dry. t-belt would likely have an effect on both cyl not one. leakdown will reveal whether valves or rings

Not really. there is no lip for the windsheild to sit against. You'd need glass about 1" bigger around in every dimension. You could maybe try to carefully remove the old seal, tearing/cutting along one spot only near the bottom if need be, and then glue the new windshield into the old seal and glue it back toghether. Might try Aussie distributors......rumor they are still making them and shippng for that small/light of an item would not be too much.

Yes anything is possible with enough fabrication. I truly do hope you come up with some setup YOU are happy with. But your comments about 5 lug swap and and Impreza Knuckles/axles for this persons post are not applicable for the parts car he was enquiring about.

you could pull valve covers and look for excessive clearance on a valve, might have a stuck one. otherwise, I would say you've got a blown ring land/ring. replace the piston.

If you are talking about the front corner markers in each fender, they are easy to pop out for bulb changing. slip a thin flathead screwdriver into the center of the space at the front between the bumper. there is a tab that if pressed down back will alloy the front of the lens to slip out, then pull the whole thing forward to slip the rear tab out of the fender.

not without welding on mounting points and shortening the bar an inch or 2 rear trailing arms are similar design, but not the same.

People who properly 5 lug swap use XT6 axles. Impreza axles are too long and will bottom out. People run them, but at great risk to longevity and safety. Plus EJ balljoints don't fit the EA control arm without modification and blah blah all kinds of stuff to work around. Can be done. Not gonna happen in this case since this is a 4cyl 4 lug XT he's talking about getting parts from. and I don't think they got XT6 in Scotland. 4 lug XT rear discs are excactly the same as the 5 lug rears, which again, he won't be getting. I'm hearing alot of "i'm gonna" this and that in your post. Let me know when you've actually done something then chime in on how things will or won't work.

Imp axles will not fit an EA82 crossmember. And if you were gonna go that route, just use 25 spline EA82 axles. And he's talking turbo xt which is 4cyl so no 5-lug. The EA82 crossmember can be fitted, but will be much wider than the EA81 wheel wells.

nope

OP = Original Poster of the thread.

ball joints, tierods, and wheel balance

brakes fit but arms are different. won't work. grab the fuel pump for your EJ swap

that button is so you can leave them up in snow and freezing. So when you get up to drive at 4:30 in the morning the lights aren't frozen shut. But they also aren't on so they won't blind the people in the house shining through the windows. Works even when key off.....so you can run out when you forget and flip them up quickly without having to get teh key.

like I said before........225/55/16 on the wheels the OP referenced.....won't rub. 60 series may rub a tiny bit.

and You're both right. Not preposterous to do a harness strip and install. Just not with that engine. I'd go either a 2000+ EJ251/3.........OR the best engine subaru ever made, the 90-96 EJ22e

With those wheels he won't rub the perch, even with 225. And the little extra tire will fill out the wheel well nicely.

Throw some SPFI or carbed pitons in it.

No 3 types Wagon Sedan Hatch/Brat