Gloyale

Nah it's just a reed switch. gets pushed by the latch. Doesn't know what direction is up.

FWIW I usually do not change out the tensioner. Only if it shows signs of leakage in the piston. the large diameter of the roller means that one sees slower rotational speeds than the smaller idlers. Never seen a tensioner roller fail, only a few of the pistons with leakage. Oh and torque for the Crank pulley........150 ft/lbs. You need that sucker to be TIGHT.

just need to hook up one of them. the green set.

Coolant temp sensor getting flakey poor connection.

nah, switch is in the trunk latch.

+1

no Between engine and trans. Pull the engine. It makes the HGs easier.

My son and I worked on the car for while over the weekend. We installed the taillights and the rear bumper. Had to pull Right hand tail light out of one of the parts cars, had forgotten that right side light had a big crack in it. Plus we needed hardware since the original nuts are who knows where. Car was stripped nearly 2 years ago for the paint job. Finished that last Sept....lol Finally getting it back together. So then we moved on to the Engine. Installed water pump. Installed timing belt. installed intake manifold. Hooked up fuel lines. Put oil in Engine. Checked oil level in trans. Spliced in a few more wires (start signal, P/N signal) And then for the Big moment........ We fired it up. She lives!!! Loud as crap with no exhaust yet, and couldn't run it more than a few secs since the radiator is not in yet either. But it runs......shifter was still in "R" when it first fired too, and it tried to drive backwards......exciting. So anyhow.......Next hurdle......I don't have an exact wiring diagram to work from. The ones I'm using are for 01 Impreza......Pinouts are correct but wire colors are off. Not such a big deal, Engine wiring is easy to sort out.....But for the Trans and Cruise it is tough to tell, many colors are off. I'm sure with some further patient testing I can figure it out but...... Anyone got a link to Diagrahm (PDF is best) for 2001 Legacy/Outback?

OBS so I think he means Impreza really. not that heavy. Not many hills where he's at. It will drive just fine. I've got a customer here withg a JDM ej20 that drives back and forth to Baker city often. He's got a 2001 OB wagon.....the big Legacy based one........He loves the car and is happy with it.....Now, he's in his 50's so maybe not so lead footed. This poster is also in Michigan talking about a 17 year old car, so there is basically no resale at all already. And no way in hell it would be a good investment to put 3000+ into the engine.......the car won't last another 10 years to make it worth it. Michigan winters EAT cars, literally. If he's spending that much, he could get a newer subaru with less rust. If it's a cost effective way for him to get the car driving, I say it's a good idea. To the poster......Swap the Cam and Crank gears and use your 2.5 Intake, crossover pipe, Knock sensor, and Cam and Crank sensors

Yeah, the trickiest part is fishing the old wiring out of the D pillar. Gotta remove the clips at the rear of the roof panel and the trunk sides. What I do is tie a string or wire to the bundle before I fish it out of the pillar. Then I use that string to pull the wires from the new gate down the pillar.

I really don't think it is necessary to replace the radiator preventively. It wouldn't hurt, but I can't see it as "necessary" He's not overheating, he's not even having any cooling issues, this is just a mileage based service thing. Subaru does not recommend replacing radiator as part of the 105k mile service. MOST radiators in these cars last 15-20 years, 200k miles or more. My 98 Forester has original rad with 240k miles. Never runs hot.

hit them up for the "100% correct fitment" guaranty

this is why you install studs properly into the head, then use a nut on the stud to tighten. Bolts instead of exhaust studs = NO with a stud installed the force is spread to ALL of the aluminum threads, not placed on one or two at a time as a bolt turns into the head. And no rotational friction is applied to aluminum threads as the force increases. It's applied to the steel threads of the stud instead.

you don't need new headbolts. They are not TTY. they don't stretch. The aluminum threads in the block would strip befpre you could stretch the High grade steel bolts. Don't replace unless they are rusted to where the grey antisieze coating has come off. Do no wire wheel. Clean, lay in a tray of clean engine oil before assembly. I would recommend Dealer for HGs or a headset from "stone" brand....they package OE japanese parts into kits.

I can never be too early......Only too late.......lol But seriously you have a good point. Most of us probably saw that as 122k miles not kilometers. belt can go to 105k miles or 10 years.....so yeah he could wait.

Forced induction on those engines? kinda changes PCV dynamics a bit. I know I had an engine that made black clouds it burned so much oil, but ran perfectly. 165k mile 2.2 in a 93 legacy. Replaced PCV with subaru one, still burned oil. Resealed the pan and that O-ring inside it at the back.....smoke and oil consumption stopped. Can't say it's this posters problem, but it is something I always consider now when looking into oil consumption/smoking engine.

it can. And also, an off chance, but the O-ring that seals the PCV "drain back" tube inside the oil pan at the rear corner can be an oil use issue too. If that o-ring doesn't seal, then oily vapor near the pan gets pulled up into PCV, rather than being the drain back for the PCV.

year and model please?

headgasket

Working air suspension?

Pulling timing covers is arguably easier than pulling valve covers in my opinion. Plus it opens the Oil cavity and will then require new VC gaskets and tube seal. Plus you gotta pull outer timing covers anyhow to see arrows to check valve lash. So I don't see how it saves work. Crank pulley and 9 little 10mm bolts take about 10 mins to remove even without air tools. Fewer bolts to remove and easier to get to vs. pulling valve covers (gotta remove battery, washer bottle, and airbox too ) Pulling DOHC covers and checking lash on all 16 valves with the engine in an outback (dropped craddle) is a PITA. Takes half an hour or more just to get them off......then struggling to get a feeler up in there next to the rail.........Imean I have check clearances in DOHC motors in car, but it's not fun or practical just to see if the belt got off time. If he pulls timing covers and finds the timing correct......then the issue may be something else like Crank sensor or??? At that point no chance of bent valves so no need to pull valve covers.

Yeah especially on Manual trans models since the thrust journal takes the force of the clutch throwout bearing push against the PP. at 317k that's seen alot of pushes.

yeah, 4 teeth is about 22.5 degrees of cam rotation. So 45 degrees of crank. That puts the piston about halfway below TDC when the intake should be just begining to open, and the Exhaust should be just fully closed. I think the threshold is around 35~45 degrees of cam, 70~90 degrees of crank where you get valves open when the piston hits TDC. I suppose one could look up the Cam degree profile and make a pretty accurate assesment of just when valves begin to hit.

+1 Also. to see if the oil is being burned. First, clean the tailgate really well. then go for a few drives (not on gravel roads) Now take a clean, white, paper towel and wipe the area of the tialgate just directly above the exhaust. Oily residue? black? Compare to a wipe from the other side of the gate or even the side of the car. This will likely show that at least some oil is being burned.

So there has been alot of questions about bent valves from timing belt failures. It's been my experience that if the belt breaks, it surely bent valves. But sometimes, if the belt just skips a few teeth, things are okay. Example : this '06 forester started running incredibly rough about 10k miles after the owner did his own timing belt replacement. Pulled the covers, and found this IMG_2926 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_2925 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr He had striped out the lower idler hole, and it had walked funky out of the hole and forced the belt against the inside of the cover until it shredded and it had skipped 2 teeth on the passenger and 4 teeth on the drivers side. After tapping the lower hole deeper, and installing a longer bolt to hold the idler, I installed a new belt and did a compression test. 165+ in all cyls. Lucky SOB So if yer belt has skipped, don't go immediately tear the engine down. Worth a compression test first.