Gloyale

Remove rag joint and bolt Orginal EA81 shaft directly to rack. Install Legacy coupler. 90-94 Regular legacy for 3-4 inch lift. EA82 PS joint for 2"

If you are using A/C or Defroster settings the fans will run full time. Otherwise, I'd check the CTS. Idle fluctuation coud be a PCV or IAC hose leak. The speedo cable may be able to be slipped back togheter. If it came apart about 3~4 inches up from where it screws to trans? There is a clip you can pry off and reset, it holds the snout of the flexible cable sheathing. Just press it back in.

It's not the letter, it's the change in design to a stronger belt and idler setup. EA82 belts break regularly. For sometimes no reason. ...they are not tensioned well (no spring action after clamped???) and they are tiny and weak. And EA82 oil pumps suck air and cause lash adjuster tick. They leak, everywhere. They are great for what they are, but far inferior in design to the EJ platform. GD is correct that any quality, EJ belt will not break it's own. Not anywhere within %150 of it's lifespan. It is usually an idler, or the water pump failing that seizes or drags enough to break the belt. EJ22 will be supported for many many years to come. Oil pumps are shared compatible up to late 2000's EA82s are getting hard to find parts for already, with some things already out of production seemingly for good.

If you had bought a Legacy in 91, you would likely never have had to replace the engine, let alone twice. Think about that. how much has the car cost you over the years vs. What an EJ22 vehicle would have. Probably alot more than the difference in price between the 2 models new.

Yeah, the wires from 17 and 18 need to be tied into ground. that is likely the issue. Make sure pin 85 is connected to Ig. switched power. Ground pin 81 IF you have a Neutral switch in your trans. Otherwise I'd recommend leaving it in AT designation (open) It will idle better. Fuel pressure and solenoids and level sensors you can leave out. Will throw codes but not needed to run just great. Can get rid of a few of the codes with a couple resistors to ground. But I kept always getting a "MNFC. Controlled Equip" code using a 96 OBD II Outback 2.2 computer. Same pinouts I believe. Also disregard the pins mentioned here by SkiShop. He's talking about Bosch type relay configuration with standard 30/85/86/87/87A type designation. Not applicable to the hitachi/matsuba relays on a subaru.

2 wire in the Radiator is a Switch, not sensor. Turns on the Rad fan when it gets hot (closes switch) 1 wire in the thermostat area is the one for the gauge. No connection to fuel 2 wire in the Thermostat area is the true sensor for the ECU fuel mixture. Resistance value drops from high to lower as temp rises. Resistance should be 2000-3000 Ohms when cold (68 deg) and around 250 ohms when hot. (190 deg)

There is no issue with using an OBD II harness. Certainly not an 98 anyhow. Stripped properly there is ZERO interaction between the ECU and old ABS system. Not his problem. Even from an Automatic, an OBD II harness will still run fine. To the OP. So you've got 12v on 2 of the 4 Fuel Pump relay wires? That's a good start. There should be a 3rd wire, thick gauge, probably Black/red but maybe different. Anyhow it's the one that would run to the Fuel Pump for it's power. The 4th wire is the key. It's skinny, and likely a light green and connects back to the ECU. This is the Wire that the ECU grounds to turn on the relay to the pump. You can test by Disconnecting the plug from the ECU, and give the relay ground to that pin. It should then run the pump. Given that you don't have Injector pulse I am gonna guess you don't have 12v to the ECU for "run" position. do you have a Wiring schematic for that harness? Pinout of the ECU?

There is a proper metal rain gutter under the plastic. Screwing anything into the roof is not needed

check with Re-Rack in Portland

I hear ya. I drove EA82 for 15 years from 1999 until 2014. Carbed, MPFI, MPFI turbo, 5spd D/R, pushbutton, FWD, 4wd, 3at, 4EAT, EJ swapped and every combo under the sun. I had em all ad different stages I love them too and for what they are, they are great. I still have an XT. I probably woudl still drive my EJ swapped GL but it's now totaled and gone. So I moved forward. Still to a sub 21-century platform, but a better one. Forrester which is basically a direct extension of the First EJ Legacy and Imp cars. Keepin those old EA82 cars going just gets to be a battle. There is always the next thing, Replacing wheel bearings, axles, tires all the friggin time from the wacky camber. And the goofy auto belts in the 90's....uhg. Then the engine oil leaks all the time. Steering racks leak and are harder and harder to replace. No to mention engine issues. And you probably have to SMOG it? I would keep it until it becomes problematic, and then get a Forrester or Outback. I'd skip the first gen Legacies unless you find a real low mileage and/or well serviced gem. Or scavenge one for it's 2.2 for a 98 Forrester. But then we are back at the one parking spot issue.

Those are decomissioned planes that the military no longer flies you are reinforcing the argument that the EA82 belongs in museums.

The plastic covers distort and shift over time. All notches should be excactly vertical. As long as they are, doesn't matter if they don't line up with the cover notches. Plus the new belt will have marks on it as well. Install to match those. **NOTE** once you rotate the marks on belt will not line up again for 200+ rotations. Just match for install.

The 85's ECU is irrelevant already if you've got a weber. It's junk. take it out so you can mount the SPFI ECU there. The thing is, the 85 wiring harness doesn't have a proper fuel pump or Ignition relay. (Closest it has is the Fuel pump "rev sensor" relay) You are going to need the ones from tHe loyale. If you've chopped em out, you will need to rewire them in. Leaving the power supply chain intact eliminates problems getting power to all of the sensors and solenoids. Cutting anything between the Ignition relay and the ECU, or from teh ECU to engine is counterproductive. But not irreversible. DO NOT HOTWIRE THE FUEL PUMP TO RUN WHEN KEY ON. USE THE ECU TO CONTROL A RELAY. THIS IS A BIG SAFETY ISSUE. YOU DON"T WANT THE FUEL PUMP TO KEEP RUNNING IN A CRASH.

Or a 98 Forrester with a 90-96 2.2 dropped in. (my personal daily and I love it) The first gen Legacies where great, but the automatic seatbelts suck and break, and the door locks activate themselves ever time you open or close the doors (counterbalancing springs fail, bad design) They are getting to be problematic. And second Gen Legacies just feel cheaply made to me. Although anything with a decent 2.2 in it can make reliable transportation. The 2.2 is a gem of an engine.

The EA82 dual range lever is bolted to the rear of teh 5-spd shfter plate. Uses the same two holes that hold the rear mounting/isolator. One could install the entire D/R shifter to a single range shifter. Literally nothing is different other than the stick has a button. (shift knob held by roll pin, rather than threads) Parts needed: D/R lever/pivoting assembly. Rubber floor boot from EA82 D/R Shaft to connect D/R lever to the D/R input of trans.

Best bet would have been to leave the Loyale Fuel pump and Ignition relay int eh harness, and just put BATT and IG.SW, and GRD to the relays. Don't have the time to look up all the pins on the ECU but I have FSMs you can look at if you are anywhere near Corvallis. Other things you'll need besides the wiring harness strip. ** EFI Fuel pump from the Loyale. Transfer over the F.I hoses from the Loyale too. Get the fuel filter and it's bracket but might want ta new filter. You may even want to get the whole gas tank swapped as the EFI one has baffles and larger outlet and return lines. ** MAF and airbox. Get the inner fender snorkle/silencer too. It's useful for short watercrossings. ** Loyale Ignition Coil. With Transitor. ** Pull the dash, and install a pin/wire to the harness for both VSS speed signal, and CEL. These will be at/in the round connectors on the back of the dash. Neither are critical for running but without VSS will not run as well and might get poor mileage. ** Add a spade "doubler" to the starter signal terminal at the starter. OR .... find the starter wire on the back of the Ig switch and be ready to splice to it for your starter signal. This will be for the "start" signal wire to the SPFI ECU. Provides enrichment for starting cycle. Hard starts if you don't hook it up but not critical. Run the wire to one of these or any other source of 12v during cranking.

Do this again, but this time instead of going by where the rotor points, use the marks on the disty to align. *****Must be on TDC for #1 not #2********* You want the Cam markers "out" at 45 degrees pointed away from center of engine, while crank at TDC. Not "in" at 45s pointing towards middle of engine and eachother. Once you have TDC on #1, then pull the disty, Find the dot on the gear shaft (not the roll pin) and tehn align it with the raised mark on the lower edge of the disty housing (just below O-ring) This is the Subaru proceedure for installing disty. You can line up the dot, then use paint pen to mark excact spot where rotor points so you can watch and not move it during installation. *it will rotate slightly as it engages with the gear, that is ok* If it won't time correctly after that, then perhaps you used an EA81 flywheel? or installed it incorrect (pretty near impossible)

clogged emulsion tubes. need to take the top of the carb, unscrew the emulsion tubes and blow them out with carb cleaner and compressed air.

You got it backwards. I just assembled one last week. At any the center 2 bolts have larger captive washers, the paint distinguishes them from the outer 4 corners, which have smaller washers to clear the Cam case. None of the bolts are different other than washer size. And none of them get an extra 45 degrees. The center ones get an extra 4~5 ft/lbs of pre torquing(21 Ft/lbs vs. 17ft/lbs). this is before the final step 90 deg. then additional 90 deg. for all bolts.

No rear struts. Rear is shock

Also for anyone reading, There are 2 different types of bolts for all SOHC 2.5 and Phase II 2.2 engines. Really it's just the size of hte washer fitted to them. the 2 center bolts have larger washers. teh 4 corner bolts have smaller ones, and ussually a painted head either black or orange to distinguish them. If you put the large washer bolts in the corners, the washer edge hits the Cam carrier frame and deflects sideways just a hair....Throwing off torque value slightly. this being said, i've taken apart good running motors which had bolts mixed up but seemed to not be a problem. But there is a correct way and it's painted bolts with small washers in the corners.

They are for providing Auxillary air yes, for the control of idle speed during warmup. So my statement that they have "Idle control" is correct. I did not say it was feedback system. And As I said. They would either result in a high idle warmed up (failed open) Or it would be low idle during warmup (not opening) So thank you for agreeing with me that it is likely not the OPs issue.

There is no OE anymore. Stone is the closest you can get. Like I said, Japanese made. The whole kit is quality gaskets and seals. Felp-pro is garbage. The HGs are OK but the rest of the seal and gaskets in there sets are junk and fail, espescially the intake gaskets.

that and to keep oil from dripping on the ground until after the warranty is up.

Yeah, but then you get unknown junkyard struts. Even if they only had 100k they would likely be worn if not shot. Just buy a set (2 struts front, 2 shocks rear) Will cost about 300~400 dollars for parts and rent or buy a spring compressor. By far the best option. Not worth the effort to install used unless that was an absolute emergency/necessary. (like a failed spring or seized strut rod)