Gloyale

You'll want to clean the oil pump bolts really good, and get a tap and chase the threads in the bolt holes. They are small bolts and it's soft metal. If the threads aren't clean you can strip them easy. Tap size is M6 x 1.00 If you really want to do it all replace the water pump while you're in there. All the the same stuff has to come out to get to it so you'll kick yourself if you don't do it and then it leaks in 6 months. Water pump bolts are the same thread as the oi pump and the same thing applies. Tap the threads, clean the bolts. And the torque only needs to be 16-20 ft.Lbs so don't overtighten.

My amber DigiDash used to only ever hit 1 or 2 bars. And sometimes it would just diasappear. I could never trust it. But as long as I checked my coolant religiously it never overheated. (I did long trips up to northern Wis and MI UP) Sold it to a friend who never checked the coolant. Somewhere along the way a heater hose started to leak and now I have a parts car again.(he's not mechanical, I gave him the same $50 the J-Yard would have, and now I get all my good parts I put into it back!)

Is it an Automatic? My car leaked out all it's auto trans fluid cause the radiatior was busted. Could be just a valve cover busted too. But hey, at least your out there where you actuallly could find another soob and swap your good parts onto it. If that happened to me here in Wisconsin, I'd be planning another trip out to Oregon or California for another. Edit: OK my dialup finally finished the pics. Hmm... For sure you could fix it to be *driveable* and probably to no even look too bad. But My time working in Autobody tells me that the subframe is for sure shifted. $$$$$ to get the frame streched(if a shop will even do it,some cars they won't) I'd say buy a nice used loyale with a crappy trans or motor. Or maybe dented doors. Get yourself some kind of usable transplant car and put all the good parts into it. What to do with the old wrecked Loyale?? Pull off the fenders, weld the rear diff and put some 30" tires on it. Mad max style off road machine.

Yeah, If you are running the 23 spline trans, just use a set of 23 spline non- turbo axles. Only reason top swap the stubs inside the diff would be to put the beefier 25 spline stubs into the D/R since you will be putting Turbo Horsepower through it. Although if you don't have a lift and don't thrash on her 23 spline will be fine.

If in fact you need the switch I've got 3 and I'm in Kenosha

Head gaskets. 3 step tightening. Starting with the bolt in the center, working outwards alternating top to bottom crisscross. 22 ft.lbs 43 ft.lbs 47. ft.lbs Oil Pump 16-20 ft. lbs

You'd have to unhook the lines and that would release the refrigerant inside. The whole system would need refilled after. Plus not collecting the gases is uh...bad..MMMKaay.

The blower is in the passenger side footwell area, just behind the lower dash panel. You can see the motor portion of it sticking out of the Ducting. 3 screws hold it in. The resistor pack is mounted a bit further along in the ducting. Should be 12v at the Fan motor whenever the ignition is on and a vent position selected(not in off). If no voltage then relay is bad or other disconnection in that circuit. If there is voltage at the fan but no ground continuity at the other wire when blower switch is on, then the switch or resistor pack is bad.

COOL!!! sticky this or submit the change over process to the USRM.

Plus it's D/R and probably SPFI. Or what would be the way coolest would be MPFI non-turbo.

MPFI uses a much more common style of sensor, connector plugs directly to it and there are no pigtails. The SPFI one has those wires and a connector. I believe you COULD use the MPFI one if you change the connector because they output in the same range. I am not sure if they have the same threads however.

I think since this is the new gen forum he's talking bout a Legacy or impreza. And in that case removeing the lower control arm is alot more intensive. And It will screw with the alingment. I'd say go to town with that pinch bolt, drill it, heat it, do whatever to get it out. If you have to you can undo the strut from top of knuckle and that will allow you to replace the axle, but again alingment is an issue.

double post

I'll be tit's the upper rad hose leaking past the clamp once pressurized. I haven't ever seen an EJ leak coolant to the outside, espescially not up onto the top of the motor!! I think people are too quick to jump to the *headgasket* diagnosis.

The 85-86 4wd GL struts are the only *bolt in* strut that offers the ability to lift the car. Even then it's only about a 1 1/2 inches. Beilieve me, you're teenager has plenty of clearance to find trouble already, he won't need more. Edit: I guess you didn't say teenager I just guessed

I just checked in an 86 GL station wagon. There are mounting points for the earlier 89 style shoulderbelt. The bolt hole is right above the anchor for the cargo cover. You'll need to get the lap belt portion of the belt to cause the lap buckle has a hole in it to accept a tab from the shoulder belt. Sadly, there are no mounts above the glass up were the later Loyale style belt would mount. Perhaps 88 has them but in 86 it does not. But at any rate the 89 style belts would bolt right in. I'll try to load pics if you need them

I've never seen a Non-Turbo EA82 engine have those cracks. Not that you shouldn't look for them but I wouldn't be too worried

Power goes from the relay straight to the blower motor. The switch and resistor control the ground side of the circuit so there would be no voltage measured at them. Wish I knew excactly were the relay is on an ea81, but I am guessing that to be the culprit.

I was thinking the rattling and the initial overheating were probably both from incorect timing. Too far advanced. And how do you tell if the sleeve has moved with the pistons in it? you can't see the wrist pin notches?

89 GLs they used a kind of *add on* shoulder belt for the back. It bolts to the body below the window, kinda comes over the top of the back seat and clips onto the lap belt with a little slider tab setup. 90-94 Loyales they moved the anchor to above the rear windows, and made the belt all one retractable piece. The 89 style would probably be easier to retrofit to an older car. But the 90-94 Loyale set up seems to be easier to use and probably a bit safer. I doubt you're 88 will have the anchor points for the Loyale style though.

Either someone added that dash as a replacement, or, the car used to have air shocks and they have been removed. It is surprising that they would remove the swtich and replace it with another panel. Can you feel if there is a computer under the drivers seat? That's where the factory unit would be. Look for that pump too behind the drivers side inner fender panel. I think the humming in the back must be the fuel pump as the air pump for the suspension would be up front.

I think he meant wratcheting BOX end wrench, like the *Gearwrench* brand. You don't need to have them but there are a few places where having a 10mm one is great. Notably the valvecovers and the Clutch fan.

I would replace them. They aren't even that expensive as far as struts go. Good sets on ebay for 40-60$ Any EA strut will fit. But some are slightly different height and dampening rate 2wd,4wd,wagon,sedan, etc...But they can be found. There are really rare 85-86 adjustable height struts but they are ... really rare. New struts make a huge difference on a 1/4 million mile Subaru. And since proper alingment is reliant on the strut having no lateral play, you would be good to rule it out before doing a proper alingment.

I is possible that this is just a blown headgasket. Although if you got it that hot it could have triggered a crack somewhere but likely just the gasket. The gaskets are pretty cheap, and the job is easy to do if you are mechanially inclined. Since it did run hot fo a while I would have the heads pressure tested and have themn resurfaced. Might need to resurface the block too. If you pull the heads and see little cracks between each of the valves don't worry, those are normal. Look in the exhaust ports and if you see cracks there then uh oh.

This place does rock but why can't I post pictures that big??? :confused: