Gloyale

Well, yes and no, the same way that water is still water when it feezes. Glass is technical an amorphous solid at normal atmospheric temps. Truely aliquid when molten. There is a clear transition point where the glass "freezes" and it molecular structure aligns in ridges.

there is adjustment to be made to the rear alingnment. It involves loosening the 3 trailing arm bolts and repositioning themn relative to the swingarm. It's a tricky adjustment, but can help. The other thing to check is the condition of the bushings the arms pivot on. I've seen the arms work there way towards the outside. The bushings get shoved all the way to one side of the arm, and start rubbing against the pivot brackets. I've had some success pulling the arms and repressing the bushing to the center of it's collar, then realinging.

If he doesn't have an engine hoist that's more money to spend to pull it. I would say pull the heads off with the block in the car. Check the heads for flatness, and perhaps pressure test, but if the engine ran strong and did not get hot there most likely fine and that would again be more money. If the block surfaces are flat then leave the block in. Only reason to pull the engine otherwise would be to do rear main seal or a clutch/torque converter. Once the heads are off, if you do need to pull the block, it can be done manually with the help of a buddy. (the shortblocks are light, even with pistons and crank in them) The only thing that is even slightly hard with the block in car is getting the Valve cover bolts. And it's no where near as hard to do on an EJ as it is with the extra wide old EA82 motors.

Free range, What happened with your switch? How was it wired? Please share with us becasue GrossGary and I have done this mod with no problems so far. We both would really like to here what happened.

Is it just the lights in the dash that don't work? the gauges themselves operate? If it's just the lights check the connections on the dimmer switch(lower left portion of dash) All the grounding for the dash lights goes through the dimmer. If it was just one bulb ou tI would say "it's just the bulb". But all of them out is a sure sign of the dimmer switch problem. That or a fuse. Try fuse #6 as well. Could be blown

You live in Corvallis, Heck yeah you better get you're bike fixed. With 25mph speed limits everywhere, you can get around faster on bike! Just make sure you have a light at night. The cops there WILL ticket you for not having one. Stop for stop signs and stay off sidewalks too. They'll ticket for that too.

No way. Glass is 100% static. It's impossible for it to constrict or expand. The metal lid works great too to hold the Vac hose. I just punched a small hole in it by twisting the tip of my knife. Made the hole a bit smaller than the diameter of the tubing and shoved it through. The curved in lip produced by the way I hogged out the hole, holds the tube in very well.

Well, to start I'll say *yes* all the power to the interior fuse box and everywhere else goes through the fusible links. The one thing that get's power without going through a fuse is the Pos lead to the Starter. The flaw in you're logic is that many of the sensors, switches, and motors and such will show continuity to ground. Say like an electric motor or a light bulb. You can measure across it's + and - terminals and there is continuity. Infact if there isn't continuity on these types of things then the bulb or motor is shot. Becasue of this the method you described for tracking down the short circuit by circuit won't work. Say he measures fusible link 1. this supplies power to the Ignition relay. But the relay, being an electro magnet has continuity to ground(like the starter solenoid). Once he removes the fusible link the continuity will go away but there may not have been a short. See what I'm saying? This way would be a wild goose chase. To really isolate the circuit you would have to do the test you speak of with all the "load" devices unplugged. You can test individual sections of harness that way though. Like undo the engine harness connector, and unplugg all the connectors to the sensors on engine. NOW test for continuity of any wires to ground or to each other at the plug. Obviously the *ground* wire bolted to the manifoold will stillhave continuity, but the other wires should have none. Similarlly you can test the ECU pins this way too. unplug the engine harness main connector, Maf, Disty and Alt. Then disconnect ECU and test for continuity to ground or of wires to eachother. Any wire fromn other sensirs like VSS, and Nuetral switch may still show continuity, but I would focus on any main 12v leads and not on signal wires to the ECU. Any wire that is a Shielded wire, unplugg it at both ends and test for continuity from the wire to the shield or ground. Sometimes if exposed to heat the shielding will melt through and touch the inner wires.

I thought you were supposed to have fun *IN* the car *WITH* your prom date;) Why else would a teenager want a station wagon?

C'mon, no one thinks that's funny?

I've been running 87oct. in my EA82T. Actually I get better milage with the 87 than with 91. I've noticed the brand making a difference powerwise before say Shell vs. Generic. Good quality 87 is better than crappy 91

I looked at a block today. I was wrong, none of the bolt holes are over oil passages. If you were to drill through it would just punch through into the open crankcase above the oilpan. But there is only 3.5 mm in depth beyond the existing hole to drill before you punch through. Perhaps as much as 5 mm for the upper right corner bolt but all the others are pretty much as deep as they can go.

Theres no real reson to pull the motor to do it unless you find the block to be warped. As long as the deck faces are flat you can leave the block in the car. If it's warped and needs work no hoist needed once the heads are off, just a buddy. Probably getaway with just the Gaskets or maybe just a head grind and get lots of miles out of her. If she was running good and not burning oil I wouldn't even do a valve job unless they pressure test really bad. I've seen freshly sealed top ends blow bottoms not redone.

If any of that comes loose it will surely end up clogging the cam bearings entirely. You would have no oil to them and who knows how quick they would seize. I would pull those cases off and put O-rings in there. This o-ring going bad can cause leakage an TOD as well so seal t right. I'd pull apart the oil relfief valve for the cam cases too and clean out the passages. Did you buy the correct A/c compressor for youre car? there are 3 types over the years.(only 2 in any model year though)

My 89 Gl Trubo has the crappy dealer installed cruise control. The kind that uses engine vaccum instead of an electric pump. Common on DLs but in this case added to a base model GL Turbo. Whatever tank was in there is gone. I've seen round ones in there but that doesn't fit with a turbo, unless maybe that's why it caught fire:rolleyes: . Anyway the little standard(the one in original pic) tank isn't enough to hold vacuum for the cruise and heater controls both. Espescially with a turbo at highway speeds just enough to make near constant boost. Here was my then temporary now still....well....there... solution.Works Great. With the spare over it's held in place well.

Yeah EJ hubs it's is different. Th bearing is pressed into the Knuckle, then the Hub pressed into the beraing center. You can remove axles without the hub coming apart. Nice cause you don't have to *press* the axle through when you swap them. But PITA if you have to change the hub. Why doesn't subaru use a bolt on hub/bearing assembly like GM FWD cars. That bolt on hub/bearing is abou tthe only thing I like about GMs

Do you have the cotter pin installed?

Sounds right except fo rthe oil pump. There is the *mickey mouse* gasket, 1 o-ring, and a Shaft seal which is like the cam and front seals but smaller. You have to remove the pulley from the oil pump to see it and install the new one. For the Cams, for each side there is a seal, a large O-ring for the end cap and 1 small o-ring between the case and head or heres a list for clarity. 1 front main 1 mickey mouse 1 oil pump seal 1 oil pump o-ring 2 cam seals 2 cam end cap orings(large) 2 cam case o-rings(small) 1 water pump gasket 1 water pump o-ring Buy a proper sized tap(M6x1.00????) for the Water pump and oil pump bolt holes. Chase out all the threads real good before reassembly so you get proper torque

Legacy bearings are different. There is just one wide bearing. I am just going to replace the whole bearing but the press job is gonna be expensive.

I can look a the block I have disassembled at home tonight anbd tell you excactly how far and how deep you can go. Which number hole is it? 1 represents the long odd ball, and 4 is the lower left corner and is longer. 2,3,and 5 represent the short bolts round the pump rotor. 1 2 3 Pump 4 5

Acetelyle torch. Heat up the stub/joint, and go to town with a hammer.

Elaborate on the *Killed* trans. What happened and how was you're switch set-up? When were you using it and what model car was this in? I think both Gary and I would like to know. While there is tons of conjecture on switch use, we've asked and gotten no response from someone that actually had a problem with it.

When I encounter this problemn it was really bad. The whole lower sill was gone all the way across the bottom. I ended up drilling out all the spot welds, removing the entire cowl panel. Had to do the same thing to the parts car to get the new piece. Luckily the Forklift at the wreckers had an inverter in it so I was able to run an electric drill out in the wreckers yard. Then I brazed the new panel back in. Brazed it cause I don't have a pinch/spot welder. But since the pannels overlap so much it was an easy braze job and that allowed me to use the brass to *fill* some holes.

Have you taken the disty cap off and verified that the rotor is connected well and turns when the engine is cranked? If it doesn't turn you've got a broken belt. Won't spark becasue the disty won't turn.

Different tread means different model/make of tires. $10 bucks says that is you're issue. Doesn't take much to get tension built up between the front and back. Driving slowly in reverse while disengaging helps quite a bit, but even with 4 new, matched tires there will still be a *clunk* Shouldn't be too severe though.