Gloyale

That passenger side axle is shot, or improperly connected. There were changes in the specific joint used for the rear axles over the years, but the geometry and length should be the same. I believe the inboard joint of the early type is a DOJ and later ones are "bell" style like the outers. This may be why they don't look the same. But if the stub spins and the axle don't then that axle has a bad or disconnected CV.

Only thing I want to add to GrossGarys post is "don"t drill too deep" The oil pump pickup passge is behind those bolts, at least the bottom right corner one and the top one diagonal form it, if one of those you're working on then don't go deeper that stock or use a longer bolt. you've got maybe a few mm but not more.

You don't want to remove ALL the old adhesive either. Leaving a bit of it is recomended. (I went to school for autobody and glass and this is what we were taught) Just get a stiff, flat scraper/puttyknife. Use it like a chisel to with a hammer. Still were a mask. Shouldn't be that hard to get it off. Buy a roll of Buytl-Acetate rubber seal(Windshield tape, napa will have it). Don't use the tube crap it is messy and takes a long time to cure.

Do you have the anti dieseling solenoid hooked up properly? That would affect both starting and shut off dieseling. it should get power when the key is on and none at shut off. I believe the power is supplied through the Rev sensor, so it won't get power until it senses the engine spinning via an ignition pulse.

Leave the fronts on the ground. Shift into 4WD, then lift the rear end and try to turn the driveshaft. It should not move if the 4wd is engaging. If it spins then the problem is in the trans. I'd pull the cover off the top of the transfer section of the Trans. See if the shift fork for the 4wd is still connected. If the Driveshaft doesn't move, it means the 4wd is working in the trans and you have a rear diff problem. I'd pull the cover off the rear diff and see if the pinion shaft for the spiders is busted. Look for any other busted parts too. And are you certain that you're CVs on both axles are good. Is it possible one of them is trashed and the axle is spinning in the cup?

Leave the fronts on the ground. Shift into 4WD, then lift the rear end and try to turn the driveshaft. It should not move if the 4wd is engaging. If it spins then the problem is in the trans. I'd pull the cover off the top of the transfer section of the Trans. See if the shift fork for the 4wd is still connected. If the Driveshaft doesn't move, it means the 4wd is working in the trans and you have a rear diff problem. I'd pull the cover off the rear diff and see if the pinion shaft for the spiders is busted. Look for any other busted parts too. And are you certain that you're CVs on both axles are good. Is it possible one of them is trashed and the axle is spinning in the cup?

Did your 86 wagon not have the bumpstops? I thought all wagons did? The only differences in swingarms I can think of is that turbo models with disc brakes had an extra little clip thing for the brakeline. And obviously RX, XT, and sport sedan models have swaybar mountings. Only wagons have the bumpstops I think. but the physical geometry of all of them is the same so any arm will work for any car.

Lot's of Bosch stuff is made in Mexico.

I don't really "blame" him. I know he went out of his way to do this for me. I am just super skeptical of installing this bearing. Even if it didn't have slop it is really gritty. Grossgary, are you saying you think I should install it and see if it tightens up? It doesn't seem like that is right but I suppose if you say you've seen this before then.....

My steering knuckle is physically cracked and broken, the casting. Bearing is pressed into knuckle, hub pressed into bearing. I need to replace the cracked knuckle. I want to find a knuckle with a good bearing in it already. Basically there are no Subarus out here in Wisconsin yards and if there were they'd be so rusty I don't want their parts. (my legacy is an Oregon immigrant) A board member here said he would get me one out west and ship it to me. Paid him 50 dollars. I appreciate the effort he put into getting it, but I really wanted to avoid buying a new bearing, that was the whole point of shipping one from out west. I don't quite know what to do because I don't want to be a wongleflute to another board member. If you're reading this you know who you are. What should we do? The bearings in this knuckle ARE shot though, I can't use it without new bearings.

It is my understanding, that the front wheel bearing of a 93 Legacy, and nearly every other soob, is a non-servceable bearing. Meaning that once the race or rollers are worn and it has play it is shot. Meaning no amount of tightening the axle nut will make the bearing tighter. Or at least it shouldn't. Something is binding if it does. Am I missing something? I need to swap Knuckle/hub assemblies because of a broken ball joint area in the cast. The I bought a knuckle and when it arrived I find enough play in the bearing to hear and feel a Clank-Clank when I wiggle the hub. Seller says that the slop will go away when the axle is installed. The bearing has black grease seeping out and looks gritty too. Should I trust this is a good hub and use it?

When the coolant temp sensor fails, espescially if it fails *open*, then the ECU will never enter closed loop operation. It would continue to enrich fuel trying to ruin what it sees as a cold engine. Also It wuold not use feedback from the 02 sensor because it doesn't use that data till it's *warm*. This is what the FSM flowchart would suggest for flooding and stalling after warm up.

That's right. It supposed to tell you how much "range" you have left to drive. based on current fuels level and ussage. Incerements of 10 and not very accuruate.

I found what wasn't adding up. A 1.023:1 drive to the front drive pinion and .948:1 to the rear. I forgot the 3AT was this way. What does this mean? 85,86 3at 3.454 front, 3.7 rear 88+ 3at 3.7 front , 3.9 rear I don't have FSM for 87 so I won't speculate, but it could be either or both because of differences in 87 early vs. late 4EAT equipped cars have a 1:1 drive at both so they have same ratio Front and Rear diffs

Quote myself "Auto and 3.9? really? You're the second person in 2 days to say they've got one of these. Is that the original trans? Diff? I had thought positively all Auto EA82s were 3.7?" I typed this then dug round and found something out. The 3at 4wds have a slightly different ratio of transfer Front VS. Rear. Front shaft is driven at 1.023:1 the rate of the main shaft, Rear shaft is driven at .948:1 the rate of the main shaft. What does this mean? Front diff is 3.7, rear diff is 3.9 (or if you go back to the earlier 85,86 and turbo ones 3.454front and 3.7 rear)This means that while the Front diff ratio for 3ats is 3.7, the rear diffs in all of the 88+ will be 3.9s 4EAT equiped GL and Loyale turbo cars are not like this transfer for both shafts is 1:1 same diff ratio front and rear.

coolant sensor open circuit. This would keep the O2 info from being monitored and make the ECU think it needs to warm up more still=more gas

I don't want to fight either. I'm just confused. Got those pics?

How much is next to nothing? PM me

These would be the only 2 ever that I've heard of and is contrary to every piece of literature I've ever seen. Something doesn't add up

Most Loyales do infact have Temp and Oil pressure gauges. It's the old DL models that were devoid of these options. And lots of 88's and 89's have passive restraint as well.

You're reffering to the 2 green test connectors under the hood? That's were they are on the SPFI models. MPFI and old carbed are under the dash. anyway, to answer you're questions VSS is located in the dash, part of the speedometer assembly. It could be that it is not sending signal to the ECU, or it could be an intermittent problem. It's not a critical item and won"t throw the code in U-check or Light the ECS light. Neutral switch code could be being set by the Neutral switch itself(side of tranny), or by the Clutch switch(Clutch in is seen like neutral). Again not terribly critical. Could affect some driving/idling issues, but most likely not a big deal. You could check those circuits to makesure the switches work and are not shorted. It may be a connection issue where a momentary bad connection throws the code.

I am sure with 5 soobs you know what you're doing. BUT, I have to ask are you SURE the rear diff of this 88 is a 3.9? It is my understanding, backed up by 6 years of FSMs that all 85-94, 3AT equipped soobs were 3.7. MTs were all 3.9, except for Turbo 5spds which were all 3.7. Take a look at the sticker to be sure.

FSM statesDO NOT use champion plugs on the SPFI motors. I wouldn't run them in the MPFI either. NGK all the way, even if you have to order them. BPR5ES-11,BPR6ES-11, OR BPR7ES-11 I've run the standard Bosch platinums before and they worked OK. I would still go NGK if you can find em

I killed a motor this way once. It was pinging on an uphill climb so I did the old VW trick of advancing the timing 1 degree per 1000 ft. Well I went the wrong way on accident and then overheated her in the mountains. From now on I will only set the timing with a light and to the specs listed.

Pull the whole arm. Unbolt the lower strut bolt and the 17mm bolts connecting the arm and a brake line. It'll be way easier than trying to remove and reinstall bearings.