Gloyale

To get at the inner bearing you will need to undo the large ringnut that holds the axleshaft into the hub. First punch out the roll pins from the axles. remove the lower strut bolt so you can push the hub down further and try to slide the axle off of the stubs. Once it is off, from the back side you will see there is a large ringnut inside hub body. it has 4 notches and one of them should have the hub housing hammered down *staking* the nut in place. Hammer out the *staking* then using a punch drive the ringnut Counter clockwise till you can remove it. There are special socket tools to do this but i'm betting you don't have one so use the punch. You may find you want to pull the whole rear arm because it will need to have the new bearings pressed in. A few people have managed to do the job with hammers and punches and torches and what not, but I think it easier( and quicker) to just pay a shop to use a press.

I though there were more changes through the years ECU wise. But I've looked over the 88,89,90 FSMs and all the ECUs look to be the same. 88 shows at pin 37 an "a/d test" connector, where 89,90 don't show a pin 37 wire. In the Fuel injection section of all the books it states pin 37 for "line end test only" so maybe it's a factory thing. I still haven't got my 87 FSM back but I believe you will be O.K. to use the 90 in the 87. The one thing I wonder about is the neutral switch and whether you're car will have it, cause the 90 ECU will need to see it. If it isn't wired in already, you surely COULD wire it in to the AT indicator *n* light. That is how the factory setup is and may well be wired into your existing loom. Note:86 SPFI uses different pin configurations. All others appear to be the same.

+1 on thinking it looks way like 84-87 Honda Hatch. At anyratre I bet you copuld do a go job making another one with a honda hatch.

You basically want it all. The Auxillary Air Valve is different and you will need that. The tube that goes to the water pump under the manifold, on a Spyder it has an extra little tube in it.

Here the twin stick writeuphttp://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=71289

Careful though, I've seen that chart before and there are a few missing details and models there. There is no distinction on the charts for 84-86 between SPFI and MPFI, nor for 87. And unless it's an XT, the ECU is mounted undet the steering column, not in the trunk.

If the Hi/Lo selector is moving on the trans(the one by the diff dipstick) you should be getting Lo range. Does it go there and then you get no drive? or does it just stay in High and drive in High? IF that little lever is moving, but nothing is changing then it could be the selector fork itself inside tranny that actaully moves the gear is bent or broken. To test the 4wd put it in 4wd and then turn tight circles in a parkinglot. If it feels like the brakes are on and the car *hops* around the turn you're 4wd works. Don't do this too much though cause it stresses the drivetrain. What's confusing me is that other than being connected by the linkage for shifting it all, the 4wd and the Hi/Lo systems are totally independent. You should read the *2 stick mod* thread in the off-road section. This will give you a bit more insite as to the way the 2 systems are connected. You could remove the the linkage from the Hi/Lo selsector on the trans, and move it by hand 2 both positions. YOu should be able to get Hi and Lo this way. If you can then you know the problem is with the linkage and where it goes through the rear of the trans.

I does have it's rear driveshaft and rear axles hooked up right? What would they mean, "the 4wd is not hooked up"?

I've got 89 and 90 I'll try to get it scanned soon. Anybody got an actual 87 FSM? And Daeron have you verified by VIN that you're car actually is an 87?

My point was that "rust maintainace" is not needed out west. Even good examples of salted area cars have some rust, or have needed some rust repair. Out west these cars still have they're original exhaust! In perfect shape! The rust can't keep "catch up" on ya cause it never starts.

I think you can get it with the Y pipe still bolted to the heads. Box end wrench, preferably 6 point. The Y pipe secured to the heads will make it easier to get good torque on it.

C'mon, the ECU is not that big

Sitting in my driveway right now are near identical 86 and 89 GL Turbos. Teh 86 has been in wisconsin for a long time and has 250,000 miles. It is at least as rusty as the pics 91Loyale posted. The 89 lived it's whole life near Salem, Oregon until just last fall when I brought it to Wisconsin. It has no rust what so ever. I mean that. ZERO. The 89, granted is 3 years newer, but it also has 250,000 miles and you can tell this ain't no granny car, it's been worked. I'd say half the Old Soobs of this generation don't rust away at all really. Sadly it's the half that was sold outside of the rust belt and or the east coast.

2wd XT6s and some of the 4cyl XTs used a 4EAT, that would bolt right up. Also 2wd legacies have a 4EAT but you'd need an adapter plate.(Available here on the board from a few places) I personally think the 4EAT is a great, smooth, dependable trans. Espescially the early legacy ones. But this would require installing the TCU unit and doing that in an old cared car you'd be minus the TPS to control it. It does have a failsafe mode, so it would still be fuctional to some degree without any electronics at all. I've driven with one completely unplugged.

I have all this stuff if you need it.

I am parting out an 86 Gl-10 right now because of rust like that. The car just feels too flexible and shaky to trust anymore. Bucky, If you're XT6 looks like that I hope you are not going to sink TOO much into him. It's all but impossible too stop rust that has gotten to that point. You'd basically have to replace the everything but the roof. and pillars to get all the cancer. I'd say strike a balance between what you can do to keep him safe and solid, but not try to *restore*. He is an aging road warrior rusting away, and you just have to enjoy the time you have left toghether. Maybe find a donor chassis with blown motor out west and transplant all his hardwear?

Okay so I dated myself.

Not to rain on the parade, BUT.....To install a trip computer, you need a fuel sender from a digidash car. And if you get that, then you will need a digidash to display the fuel readings. Sunroof installation requires removal of essentially the whole interior to get the headliner out. Dont' you already have big holes in the roof? LOL On another note, I think you COULD use a ECU from a later SPFI, but it will require switching of some pins. My 87 FSM is at the Machinist with my engine right now. but if it comes to it and you want to swap ECU's tell me what year you get it from and MT or AUTO and I can scan you the pinouts for both. I'll get my 87 FSM back in a day or 2 here. Ohh, and the *lean* condition is in reference to the fact that you're highest volt reading from the o2 sensor was .35v. That is a somewhat lean condition if it is working right.

On these cars, no. It is located on a little shelf just in front of the passenger side rear wheel. Just one hose in and one hose out, and connector for the wires. easy

The digidash I have is the old Amber 85/86 style. It does not have the same connectors on it. sorry. You have a PM about shipping the AC stuff.

I am still suspiscious of that ECU. But there are other things too. But everything you are describing seems like not enough fuel being injected. (which would make sense with the lean readings on the O2) After all this it could be as simple as the fuel injector itself. Have you done any tests to confirm it is working right? The other possibiltiy is the fuel pump. Apparently that is what was wrong with Caboobaroo's coupe. I believe it is an 87 SPFI as well. Pump was working, but not up to par, according to the shop he took it to. I guess we should wait to here if it's "fixed" first before assuming that really was the problem. But perhaps? I know, everything I say is "perhaps?"

It's basically the check engine light. (Engine Control System) Does it flash or anything? It is supposed to come on while the Key is on, but before the engine is started. It should go out within a few moments of startup. Are either the Test(greens) or Read(blacks) diagnostic connnector pluged toghether. Unplug both for normal driving. If the light stays on while driving, it means you have a trouble code. you need to read the codes off of the little LED in the ECU(bolted to bottom of steering column, about the size of a Discman) there should be something in the USRM describing reading codes.

I agree. A faulty PCV system will cuase oil to get sucked into the intake. And then the Wacky ASV(air suction Valve) introduces Air from the intake to the exhaust to eleiminate backfires. Could be part of the oil thing

I'm not sure what you mean? which bolts broke? I thought the adjuster was held in by the shoes. Are you trying to unbolt the brake cylinder? The shoes are held by little clips and pins through the backing plate. I am confused

Either someone swapped dashes, or it had Air suspension and somneone removed it and took the button too. Open the hood ook at the tops of the struts. Are there black platic covers that have writing like *air suspension* or *Height control* I forget what they say but basically look and see if it look like it has Air suspension. If not I'll bet someone swapped the dash. Which means it may have more (or less) miles than shown.