Gloyale

Sorry, I looked at the letters for 88,89 and filled in the rest alphabetically cause I was being lazy and didn't want to open the other books. Forgot they skipped I to avoid confusion with 1. I went back and looked in the 86 and 85 books and edited the original list in red accordingly. It seems it is technically still an 87 AS far as the "yokul", sorry no offense to him if he's a friend. I was just making a point not to assume any of the cars condition.

year based on the Tenth character of vin # 85=F 86=G 87=H 88=J 89=K

I believe so, but it'd be the same setup regardless. Perhaps different pins at the ECU. I only have Sec. 2 and 3 of the 87 FSM, both for the DL/GL and also for an XT but I don't have section 6(electical) for either in 87 First thing , with no battery connected, is there any continuity between the Positive cable and Ground? Key off? Key on? Do you know any more about what the last last yokul did to it to try and fix? or when it stopped working? This has me intrigued, I want to know what the deal is. When you swapped coils, did you swap just the coil or the whole assembly with the "power transitor ignitor" too? That is still what everyone including me thought right away, and the FSM marks it as the "very likely" cause of a no spark in the general troubleshooting chart. Next in line is the Crank angle sensor(back to the disty thing, sure it's right?) Hope you get it goin. Get some rest start over in the morning. It'll go easier then.

Yeah and there was another guy in Australia who did this and the lower spring seats of BOTH sides blew off cause of the extra load. ZRXDoug is going to try to cut one coil off. Should still put the back up as high as it can go without lift. Loyale2.7 Used springs from a Ford Tempo on the front of his H6 GL to accomodate the heavier engine. Not sure if he got any lift but if you did that on a 4cyl you might get some. Other wise you Could try to track down some Original OEM style 85,86 GL struts with the adjustable spring setup. From a Wrecker I bet you could get a set of used ones. But New they are almost impossible to find. I've found one set of fronts but never a set of rears in 4 years lookin. Of course I am always diggin for bargains, If you had real money to spend it might be a bit easier to find em.

Okay, remember someone talking about the Diode function of the amplifier? This is the deal. A diode only lets current flow one way. Continuity will only exist with the Multimeter leads hooked up Positive to the W/y terminal, and negative to the B/w terminal. If you envision the connection as a *T* then Pos to the upright, and Neg to the top. If you reverse the test leads there should be no continuity. I got 2.5Kohms. That was measuring on the 20k ohm scale. but apparently It varies depending on which scale of the multimeter you use? But at any rate the continuity exists only one way. This is the mesurements with the leads from it still hooked to terminals of coil. If you unhook it altoghether there wil be no resistance. Not sure why but that's how 2 known good ones are testing.

Are you saying the starter is getting hot even with the key in the off position? Check for continuity betweeen the positive battery cable and the body of the starter. And since you got this car not running, you don't know what someone else did. Double check that the Battery cables are hooked up to the starter and the engine block properly.

???? do you have the Battery cables switched? If not you have a short it seems.

I don't know, I'm pulling for ya here. The new sensor put out Quite different numbers in the bench test. that could be a sign.

Okay, start over. First off, All the FSMs call it a "power transitor ignitor" and say it amplifies the signal from control unit(ECU). But none of teh Diagrahms call it that. They show a "condensor", but I think that is what we are talking about. For some reason it's not ncluded in the diagrahms for SPFI til 90(Loyale) It shows in the other years I have (86,88,89,89XT) under the MPFI diagrahm, but is not shown in the SPFI diagrahm, although the same coil is speced for both. At any rate. I just took some measurments from my car. It's MPFI but it seems they are the same. The Black/white wire going into the "power transitor ignitor" was getting 12v. The yellow/white wire in the same connector had .13v. If you have 12v there, then that could be the issue. That wire is the signal wire from the ECU, it connects to terminal 52 of the ECU. You could disconnect the "power transitor ignitor" connector, and disconnect the ecu connector. Then test if there is continuity end to end. Also test for continuity to ground. Also the "power transitor ignitor" measures 2.5Kohms resitance across the 2 terminals. I measured 2 of them and they where the same.

Cool. At least we have figure out for anyone else in the future that to use an MPFI disty(D4p86-03) on an SPFI(D4p84-03) or vice versa, the green and white wire on the disty need to be swithced.

nevermind, I read it wrong. I need to go to sleep

uh..... hahahha....Stud exctractor...hahhahaha

I think here they are called wives LOL

Spark plug hole tap. should be the same size

OKAY, heres more. I am holding a Disty like your (d4p86-03) in my hands. And looking at the 88 FSM. I think I can tell you the excat colors of the wires you should swap on the Disty side to make it work. Disconnect the connector to the disty. Measure the Black/White wire for voltage, with key on should be greater than 4 volts. This wire needs to go to the White wire in the Disty. Measure the Green/Black wire of harness. Should have Greater than 10v. This needs to be connected to the Red wire of disty Black wire shuold have continuity to ground. Connects to the black wire of disty I can't find a spec on what measurment the Green/yellow wire should have. But it should end up connected to the Green wire of disty Basically you should switch the position of the white and green wires on the disty connector. This is the real answer that i am sure of. If this contradicts an early statement, it's because I was still trying to figure it out. But for sure The White and green Wires are in opposite positions dp484 vs. dp486

Further update: This is so tricky to figure out. I am not even positive these distributors will work for you. They from an MPFI I am trying to compare but since the ECU's are differnent it is hard to track down which wires are what You should have these wires in you're harness Green/yellow wire Green/Black wire Black wire Black/white wire

Well. Regardless of the wire colors. When looking at the harness side of the Disty connector, with the lock tab up. The upper left, and bottom right wires are opposite between GLs and XTs. You probably want to swap connector on the disty to match your car, rather than modify the cars harness as I said earlier. So that means on the disty side of the connector, swap the upper right and bottom left. Hopefully you have not fried you're ECU because the difference is basically swapped signal and ground wires from the ECU.

Wait don't swap any wires yet! There is a difference, I am just trying to track it down, it is basically a difference in the connectors. But in the 88FSM, the *fuelinjection* section shows the wires as one set of colors and the *electrical# section shows another. What color are the wires in your harness that connects to the Disty?

You've got 89+, non turbo MPFI XT distys. I am not sure if they will work. I'm digging through the FSMs for the XT and your 88 to compare Edit. There is a difference in the p[osition of the wires in the connector!!!. Swap the Black and White wires in the harness connector I never new about this difference!

Has it ever run with the new Disty? Perhaps the wrong one was installed. If someone put sa carb model disty in there it won't work. What does the dist look like under the cap? Can you see a magnetic pickup? Or is it just a flat goldish color plate? Should be Hitachi part number D4P84-03. Used in SPFI and later style MPFI. Note: FSM has warning to "NEVER USE CHAMPION PLUGS WITH SPFI" just a thought

Needs 2 thin yellow racing stripes down that big black hood.(just an opinion)

I've always wanted a set of those. Somebody tell Santa

I'd say try to hammer on a smaller socket. Maybe a standard size and definately a 6 point. Otherwise blast the nuts off with a cutting torch if you got one.

I second the need for a compression check. If the compression checks out good, then I would say pull the exhaust crossover pipe(PITA, have to lift the motor off crossmember slightly and it helps to unbolt the down pipe from the turbo first for better access) But then you can look up into the exhaust port and see if you have cracks. I can't get my picture attached here?(say's I've already attached it in another thread? why can't I access all my attachments I've uploaded? why can;t I upload the same one to a new thread?) anyway, If you look in my photos you will find pics of the exhauist cracks. They are hard to see with all the carbon in the ports, but with a rag, a flashlight, and some carbcleaner you should be able to spot them.

Often, when you buy a reman or aftermarket pump, it is a crap shoot as to whether the studs are installed or not. Often they are just in a little baggie and you have to install them. This is why it is possible to buy the wrong pump, (say the short one when you need the long) and just throw those studs in it and put you're pulley on.( but that's not good) The reman guys don't know the full little details of the 2 different pumps, they either include them or they don't and I don't think it matters to them which it is. I'm guessing this is a moot point for this thread because the OPs car is non AC so it definatley will have a 110 pump. Here is a pic of both types in the FSM diagram Top pulley in image is the 110mm setup. The one below is the 105 setup. note the studs installed in the pulley. That's why they give you a baggie of studs with either pump.