Gloyale

If it is a spyder, I need the tube from the heater core back under the intake to the waterpump. On spyder intake engines this tube has an extra little tube brazed into it as compared to any other intake on an EA82 .

I put several diagrams for the 88 green digidash in my *photos*. Click on Photos and seach for my name. I will have to wait til monday to email the full PDF's with all the rest. I will check to see if there is any differences in the wiring for you're 89

Give me you're email address. If I size them down small enough to upload here, you will not be able to read them.

Dunb question, but did you remove the radiator cap while draining? or the upper hose? If not hten all the coolant may have stayed in the radiator. Like putting you're fingere over the top of a straw. Without a way for air to come in, the water can't get out. Please don't be offended. I realise you may not be that much of a newb, just had to ask.

Don't assume headgaskets just yet. First check below the Waterpump. Is the front of the engine wet from coolant? Check all the hose really good. Reomve the spare and check the Heater hoses. Check the ones going to and from the throttle body, they are small and look like they could be fuel or vaccuum hoses, but they preheat the throttle body. There is the hose from the T-stat housing that goes under the manifold to the block. And of course there are 2 hoses going to and from the Turbo. The return hose is really hard to see but try to check it. Check you're floorboards near the center of car under dash, are the wet? can you smell coolant in the car? that would be the heater core. You've got to rule out all external leaks.

Does you're ECS light come on in sync with the Fuel pump? sounds like the Test connectors are still hooked up. People( or shops) who don't know what they are for look at htem and say. "hey this looks like it came unplugged" But they are supposed to be disconnected except for diagnostic use.

BLOODLUST!! I don't think he's even still reading this. We blew his cover. Sorry BGD

Start a new thread. Are you talking about the *STOP LIGHT* red indicator on the lower dash? or the E-brake light? Shot in the dark but do you have a single pole bulb in the stop lamp socket? It takes a 2 pole bulb

I think venting to the atmosphere screws with the MAF setup on our cars. But I don't know really, just though I read that and it makes sense. When the the valve vents the MAF would see lots of air moving through and deliver lots of fuel. But the air would not be going into the engine, so it would be really rich between shifts and pop alot.

Plug in the Green check connectors. Does the Fuel pump Cycle? yes? good Unplug them now. now pull the cap of the distributor, Is the rotor fixed to the shaft with it's little screw? if not there is you're problem. Rotor attached? if so then watch it while someone cranks over the car.(or turn it over by jumping a wire from 12v to the starter solenoid) If it does not turn you're t-belt is broken. If that all checks out. Then check you're intake tube from the MAF to the Turbo. is it loose?cracked? I've seen them pull off the MAF as the engine torques away from that side and the tube shrinks over time. I unbolted air cleaner box, shoved it a half inch towards the motor and just leave it sit there. That way it can move abit with the engine. This is the quick list of *no start* stuff. Let us know what happens

DaMN!! I mistated in my orginal post. Edited in red but I need the passsenger side. I hope you have one cause I just sent you a paypal! Let me know if you don't have a right(pass) side one.

No, sorry. The digi dash harness is all different, through out the entire dash. I suppose if you used the WHOLE harness it would all plug in to the big jubnction plugs coming from the engine bay. But you'd have to reinstall the whole thing in you're dash, removing all the old wiring. Did Crawler send you the connectors with the Digidash? If so I would focus on just rearanging the pins for the dash. You'll have to splice in some wires for the Trip Computer. Like Speed signal and fuel level. What style Digi is it? This 86 setup is the old style Amber Digi. Different plugs and wiring than the green ones. I have Service mnanuls for each year. Tell me the year of the dash, and the year of you're car. I can scan and post diagrams. Heck I've got them scanned already from when I sold SUBARUGURU an 88 digidash setup.

Well, I haven't done the swap. So listen to what others have to say. But yeah, the fuel mapping is all different for a turbo. Without compensation you'll run really lean or really rich depending. Also the Computer controls the boosts through a solenoid that activates the wastegate. If you don't have a wastegate control, and use the stock 93 2.2 ECU you'll blow that motor in short order from massive overboost.(wastegate won't open) And besides all that I think some of the values that the sensors output for a given conditon could be different. the Honda kids ussually do run at least a fuel pressure regulator that allows for higher than stock pressures. And they use aftermarket Boost controllers Alot of them use aftermarket ECUs as well. By all means pursue the swap, I'm just saying find a whole clip with ECU included for the engine you are trying to run. OR get an afermarket ECU

Sweet! so the S/R rear section will bolt to the D/R front case? Shafts and gearsinside are the same just the selector is different? Awesome We knew that the Hi/Lo lever will need to be rigged seperate from the 4wd control. Kick butt.

Condensor goes up in front of the radiator. I'll get a quote tommorow on shipping. It'll be an estimate at first cause I don't have all the stuff off the car yet. And frankly I won't pull that stuff unless you or someone else wants it. I was going to scrap all the AC stuff. I will take pics of the AC installed before removing, and include copies of the Factory wiring diagrams for it.

We're talking about banning him, not killing him:lol:

I'll check. Probably have to come in 2 or 3 boxes. At least the condensor would have to be in it's own box. it's big and flat and has fins like a radiator. We ship internationally all the time at my work. What town in Germany?

I'm pretty positive the stock 93 2.2 ECU will not run the EJ20H, or any other factory turbo actually. You would need the whole ECU and MAf and all that. Check out Jhot importers on Ebay. Last time I looked, there was a complete EJ20H with full harness, ECU, Axles, maf, fuelpump, Turbos and an Auto trans for $679. Keeps getting relisted. Someone should snag it. Problem is, no one has diagrams or specs for it, so hooking it up would be really tough. Having the whole harness would make that alot easier but it would still be rough.

Actually many of the US cars did come with fatory air, many also had a differnet setup installed by dealer. Both were designed by Subaru(or with there approval), but one setup was made by Hitachi, the other by Matsushiitaa(panasonic). And no none of them had the Evap core "already in the heater box" The evap core lives in it's own section of ducting, between the blower and the heater box. Cars that did nopt have AC just have an empty duct in that place. To instal the Evap core, remove that empty duct and install the Evap unit in it's place And Nip, if you installed one, why don't you know what needs to go in to do the swap? stickedy, it would be expensivce for sure, but I would ship you all the AC parts if you want. And I do mean all. I am about to part out a GL-10 turbo with Hitachi A/C. It requires alot. But I have it all. heres the short list Condensor and hoses Evap core and ducting Condensor Idler pulley for belt and Condensor bracket A/C switch style vent control Condensor and fan relay reciever/dryer Clutch fan and shroud Anybody see anything I missed? I'll sell ya the lot of all of it for $40 US. But shipping is gonna be the big deal. At least now you have a list(partial?) of what you need, and maybe you can find it there

I should have been more clear. I was actually thinking about a bypass type valve which would vent back to the uncompressed side of the turbo intake. No obnoxious noises. Even though that can be kinda cool in Condoleeza(Rice)kinduv way So how has anyone set theirs up?

Did you look to see if it has a Limited Slip rear diff? Sticker on back of diff will say in big letters LSD. If the sticker is coated with grime, just carefully grab a corner and pull the film off, the printing will stay underneath.

I know it doesn't add any total HP. I've read they help keep the turbo spooled up during shifts, and help eliminate backpressure on the turbo during closed throttle between shifts. That's when boost*backs up* and actually slows the turbo and puts strain on it. BOV extends the life of the turbine. That's what I've been reading but I have never run one.

Okay. How did you plumb it? and did you notice any gains? Trying to decide if I want to do one.

who has done this? Have you had any issues? Did you notice any better spooling? I am trying to decide if I want to add one to the engine setup I am building.(spyder intake, TMIC)