Gloyale

The sensor that signals the door is locked is a simple switch inside the lock actuator box at each door. One of the 4 (or five, r.gate 87+) door lock actuators must have a bad switch in it. There should be a way to track down which one. Maybe lock all doors. And if the light goes off, then bang on each door one at a time and see if it flickers or comes on.

Tear it down and re ring it. You don't even have to split the case. Ussually you'd want to and do new bearings too, but if you're lookin to go *el cheapo* just pull the heads and pistons, rering and go. Probably less than $100 bucks for rings and a HG set. You'll get a good couple years out of it at least. Which if it's rusty may be all you get anyway.

For the Water pump shaft there is another easy eyeball. The bodies of the pumps are identical. it is just the spacing of the pulley hub on the shaftthat is different. The 105mm(short) one has barely a 1/4 between the body of pump and the base of that pulley hub. not much shaft showing at all between the body and hub. The 110 mm(long) one has a good half inch. In my experience, the 110 is the far more common setup for GLs. XTs mostly have the 105. But I haven't been able to find a hard and fast rule about what has what. Espescially because so many of these cars have had motor swaps. I think the difference is based on which of the 2 types of AC setups the car has.

Well, we're not modifing any part of the dualrange setup. Just attachin a seperate lever to it. It's all contained up in the front section above the differential. The part we are talkin bout swapping is the tail section. I think a 2WD tail section has differnt shaft/bearing/gear setup. to do a 2wd like this you'd basically have to turn a 4wd trans into a 2wd. And there would be no point in that. You could just put the DR trans into a 2wd car and not hook up the rear driveline. You'd need to somehow plug up the rear so as to not lose fluid. And you'd wind up so quick, you'd have to shift 3 times before you got to 30 mph. Subaru trannys are not real happy with forced shifts, so the honda you're racing would pull ahead while you're grabbing frantically for shifts.

With you're bros car. That sounds like either a totaly shot bottom end(rings) OR the timing belts are way off.

Only automatic Turbo cars were listed to use the Dual core radiatior. I have no problems with cooling on my 89 Turbo using a single core.(actaully, it get's too cool, but that is probably my cheapo T-stat) I think if you just get a new single core you'll be fine. You can use an Automatic rad in a MT, but not the other way round. This is because the Auto has 2 tubes for the trans fluid cooler. Some MT radiators have the bungs for those tubes so you could adapt.

The power window unit is under the pasenger seat, under carpet. So you may well be that the Air Susp. unit is uunder the carpet.

I beat up on hondas up to 40-50 mph all the time in my 93 legacy AWD auto. And that's a 2.2 Beyond that speed they overtake me. I think the torquey boxer engine with AWD makes for lightning fast start offs, but once you get going the lack of total HP starts to show.

If you can find a GL,GL-10, or Turbo Loyale with a *fulltime* automatic, you can use the crossmember from that. The trans should physically fit because from 88 up the 4EAT was offered in the "fulltime" cars. Only physical differences between those and a Legacy auto is the bellhousing.

Yeah, I ended up drilling tiny holes in both the top and bottom. Tried to do the top ones in a place where water can't just roll in easy. Could even fit a little rubber elbow like the side markers have. I drilled drain holes in the bottom of those too. I see lots of Soobs in the north west with standing water in the headlights and markers

If you're on the north side of Chicago , you could come up to Kenosha and I'll replace the whole axle or just the boot for 50 bucks. It'll only take an hour or so. you buy parts. I have the tool for clamping real CV boot clamps. Those *fold and lock* ones are crap, you can't get them tight enough and they come off, espescially on the outers.

Good to hear! I always like it when threads end with something being solved

93 Legacy wagon with original motor/trans: Just clicked 290,000 miles no problems ever . Had a trans flush at 120,000, and again at about 250,000(when I bought it from mom) From 250,000 to 280,000 it was used daily for pizza delivery in city. And I was not gentle to her. Still drives smooth, shifts fine, AWD works great still. 89 GL with original first gen 4EAT: 240,000 miles. Sometimes i get VSS codes. Once I got a shift solenoid code but it drives and shifts fine. AWD does not like to engage on it's own(these early ones had a different split ratio and computer) It's good enough to get me unstuck in snow. I have to let the wheels spin for a while, then BAM! I feel the back get power and start going, but the power to the back feels like it comes in surges ? Had to wire in a *diff lock* switch for real 4WD type weather. Can't judge the 4EAT by this trans to much, it is a very early version, and this particular one was thrashed on before I got the car.

Generally I agree, but that's not excactly true. With subaru roller bearings, you don't have to worry about an excact adjustment. Force from the axlenut should just hold the axle through the hub, not load the bearing. BUT, I think there is a point were they would be too tight. It would be really hard to get it too tight with conventional tools, but if you go more than say 350 ft.lbs(just a guess) I think it could hurt them. But it's not like the old tapper bearing setup that had to be adjusted *just so*. Those kind it's easy to crush the rollers.

The problem I've seen most is that the chrome reflective backing gets dirty, pitted, and eventually flakes or rusts. You can remove the glass, pry off the little clips, and remove all plastic pieces like the adjuster inserts and what not. then put the whole assembly in a 250 degree oven. They will just pop apart with a little prying then. But really unless you want to rechrome the backing you are better off to find a set that is shiny still. Glass lenses don't yellow over time like new plastic ones. Unless you have chips in your glass, you wouldn't really have much *dust* in there. Do you have condensation in them? That can defract the light and make it dim, and is the other really common cause of dim lights. (other than grounding issues which can be checked easy) If you want to do a quick check of the grounds it's easy. Pull the plug off the bulb. Jumper a wire between the center pole of connector and center of bulb. Then ground either of the other bulb terminals to a good ground on the engine. One turns on hi, one lo. If it is brighter this way than normal, you have a bad ground.

Hey, me and MIlemaker13 were thinking about an idea. We both like the easy engagement of the pushbutton setup. Around here in winter you will encounter clear, plowed roads, Then take one left and all of a sudden you're in 6 inches of snow. Some times you don't even make a turn, the roads can just be patchy with drifts. I don't like to have to grab for a second lever when I need my 4wd quick. And trying to hit 4 but not 4 LO. BUT, the D/R trans is obviously better for off-road. We have seen the dual stick *2wd LO* modification. That's when it hit me. Why can't we have both setups? here is the "can it be doen question" 1. Could you take a D/R tranny, set it up with a seperate lever to control the HI/LO 2. Take the tail section of a S/R and it's vaccum servo and cable(which controls all the 4wd transfer) and bolt it on to the rear of the D/R case. 3. Leave the Hi/LO shifter in high for normal driving. Use the pushbutton setup to switch in and out of 4wd. Shift Hi/LO lever manually when LO range is needed, 2 or 4wd. would it work? Would the 2 sections mate? Phiz?

BGD is a banned member. I still see him on NASIOC, and I personally don't have a problem with him. Sometimes i don't agreewith him. I think he says some nutty stuff, but I am all for open discussion, it keeps this board interesting. +1 for lettin him stay.

I have seen this happen on the outer joint on a *rebuilt* axle I was installing. Ended up removing the axle at the trans end, but left it attached to hub. cut the clamp, reassembled, regreased(most rebulders don't use enough) and re clamped. The fold over to lock clamps suck. I have the $10 tool to install the *crimp* style clamp, so that's what I use.

***absolute sarcasm*** I wouldn't use that rim. Those japanese engineers might have made it out of balance for emmisions. ***absolute sarcasm***

I still have that Torque converter. What year and model is the trans you are trying to install? I'm confused which trans you are trying to install in the car.

No, the one that sends to the gauge is on the front side of manifold, underneath and to the left of the therostat cover. Between it and the dipstick. It is right up front and easy to access. The one for the ECU is the one in the back, and you don't have to remove anything else. Although the EGR thermoswitch is really in the way.

I see you're point. I though he meant -10 to +5 BTC for timing which would be wrong.. I get it now. BTW, apparently he has 2 of them and connectors for sale. Check the marketplace forums.

Nope, sorry buddy. 85-86 definately has a base timing setting of 25 degrees BTC. At high altitude(4000 ft) the knock unit does advance the base timing, up to an additional 5 degrees.I had it backwards. so from 25 to 30 BTC. Upon further reading, It appears the system does retard the spark under knock. timing can be retarded back to a max of 15 degrees BTC under ping. This is straight from the factory manual. I don't know where you got your info. But i seriously did drive the car without one for 3 1/2 years. No problems, no pinging.

The belts, specifically the timing belt, could be glazed and slipping if it is still the old belt. I believe you if you say it's good. I'm just noting that just cause it's on correct and spinnig, it could still be worn out.

Yeah, by 89 there where no Turbo XTs here in the states. Only XT and XT6