Gloyale

Yeah those turbo hoses are important to check on. You can get the lower coolant hose of the turbo without removing it. You gotta take off the sheilds, and get at the screw from behind the turbo. It's not too hard if you already know how everything is plumbed back there. If it's you're first time, probably best to remove the turbo to get a hands on look at everything back there. Then that makes it easier next time.

This knock control system can only adjust 5 degrees. Timing is should be set to 25 degrees primary advance. Knock unit can retard base timing back to 20 degrees. If you experience any ping, say at high elev. or under heavy load, you could manualy set your timing to say 21,22 degrees? that should help. Mine never pinged, although i've never been over about 1200ft above sea level with it.

Yeah, If that gate was stuck closed, you'd be getting WAY too much boost. So much you'd be ruinning lean, and possibly damaging the pistons/cylinders and risking a headgasket blowout.

I accidentally flipped that switch while I had my dash apart to wire a switch (4EAT center lock)and LED. After I was done, the parking lights were on. I tore the dash back apart to find my *mistake*. Only after looking at the wiring diagrahms to try to solve did I see and remember the *kill battery* switch.

If it is relative to vehicle speed then it is probably your CV joint. It could be something else in the trans too(unlikely), but if it corresponds to Vehicle speed not Engine RPMs it is in the drivetrain, not the engine.

I would say go to a junkyard, and pull all four struts, pull em as a whole assembly so you get the mountings and springs. If you want to buy new sruts to install, get basically any year(85-94) GL or Loyale nonair suspension 4WD struts. You may be able to just buy the new struts and use your existing uppermounts and springs, but they may be different so I would get a set of used ones with springs and eveything so you have all the parts needed.

My 86 digidash, the temp meter would *disappear* then come back on. It never showed hot. Even when I know the car was. BUt it sounds like yours is working. I would for sure use an oem thermostat. Any other kind I've used, i get either the same as you where it takes alarmingly long to open, and the car gets hot first. Or they just stay open and the car stays too cool. 195 is OEM for non-turbo cars. 180 is sometimes spec for turbo. But not according to FSM, it says all are 195. Adn yes, the ground for the electric fan is provided by the thermoswitch.

Which is it? engine RPMS, or vehicle speed. If the sound corresponds to vehichle speed, and sounds closer than the engine, it may be you're CV joint in the axle. Just a guess. BTW. Just revving in neutral, the turbo won't reall yput out boost because there is no heavy load to really pressurize the exhaust. You should be able to get that wastegate to pivot one way or the other. Perhaps disconnect the little clip holding the Diaphram rod to the lever. Then the wastegate lever should flop freely.

No, The bolts around the crank are obscured by the Crank pulley. It has to come off to get to the bolts.(unless you've got crazy swivel, ratcheting, wreches or something.) Not too much really has to come off to unbolt them. You could do it in an hour I'm sure.

Isuzu troopers and rodeos have similar solenoids. Ton's of options in other cars too. But the Isuzu ones are a good quality

0 on the flywheel will be on the outer edge. I've never noticed any marks on the pressure plate though. I don't think you will have any problems if you don't find the mystery mark. Just tighten down the plate evenly and make sure you've got it properly on the dowel pins before tightening.

How are you testing the wastegate? It is very hard to mve by hand. Remeber too that the diaphram *pushes* the wastegate lever, not pulls. Grab the lever with some pliers, and see if you can pivot it that way. If not then it is stuck. That would be rare. Sometimes the wastegate won't work if the diaphram has blown. It should be tested by applying compressed air to the diaphram.IMPORTANT-NO MORE THAN 10psi. With compressed air applied, the diaphram should push the wasgate open. Alternately a basic test would be to remove the hose from diaphram, plug the opening with your finger, and the move the lever out with pliers. You should feel vaccum pull on your finger. If none, then you're wastegate diaphram is blown. The symptoms you're describing don't sound much like the turbo however. Sound like you may have a rod knock.

85-86(and early 87 XT) Knock sensors have a two wire connection. 87 and up have a single wire knock sensor. Someone may have installed the wrong knock sensor in you're car. The older 2 wire style are expensive, and hard to find new. The single wire style on the other hand are pretty cheap and easy to find, so someone may have grabbed one of those but they are different. If you can find a used one, be carefull. The clip is probably gone because it is Really hard to get to the lock tabs on the plug, so ussually you have to cut the clip off. They are incredibly hard to remove without breaking, because just a slight *pry* to one side or the other will break the ceramic top portion. I ran my 86 turbo for 3 1/2 years with no Knock sensor until I finally found one to scavenge at a wrecker. During that time it ran fine, and I never really noticed a change when I finally installed it. If you find one, you can hook the either wire to either post. The pressure sensor for the Turbo light has the same connector on it. So if you get you're sensor from a J-yard, grab the connector as well. either from the knock sensor harness, or get the one from the *boost* sensor.

Yeah, but that wouldn't cause overheating. The flow through engine would still be fine, although the radiator would likely be clogged as well in this case. I just don't understand what you mean here. If the gaskets where leaking he would be burning coolant. Just a guess, but being a GL-10, his car may be SPFI,MPFI. And if it has a/c it should already have a clutch fan. I assume it does, because he refered to the Elec fan as *auxillary* I'm not sure but i would think Loyales without ac would not have a clutch fan. This would show up as overheating under load, not at idle I believe you're problem is with the fan thermoswitch.

There are actually 2. The one that the ECU reads is on the passenger side, front portion of intake manifold. Right near the therostat cover/top radiator hose. It has 2 wires with a green or black connector. There are several threads going right now about how to check it. search. The other one sends to the gauge on the dash, only. That one has a spade with a single wire attached, and is a bit smaller. BTW, the green *test* connectors should only be connected for timing or diagnostic. Disconnect them for normal driving.

Reply, it's carbed. If not it can be cause he just bought a full intake, carb and disty from me.

Why not wait until you need to change the belts, or something else again?

this post DUUUUUHHHHH!!!! *bows down in humbleness* to MIkeshoup I get it now. You are right. The Crank and hence the marks will be at TDC for either spark. You could time off of either provided the disty and cams were synched properly. I feel foolish.

I was talking relative to the cams, and disty by extension. Just cause a piston is at TDC, does not mean it is the correct time to fire. You cannot simply time off either 1 or 2. You have to time off the one you have set to be on it's compresion stroke for that disty position. I wasn't saying you were wrong about 1 and 2 being 360 at the crank. I was saying that that fact alone does not make it so you can time off either. You can time off of 2, but you would have to install the disty 180 from the specified location. It won't run otherwise. DUUUHHH!! see my later post

Actually, I think one side goes one way, the other side goes the other way. I can't remeber. Just start turning them and it becomes obvious.

Subaru bumpers are made of stamped sheetmetal. And have you ever pulled the skin off one? Even in *rust free* areas like Oregon or Cali, they get rusty and fall apart from the inside.(because the foam attracts and holds moisture. I never want my bumper to be part of the frame for a hitch. They just are not made for it. even with moderate tongue load, all it would take is one big bump to momentarily overload the bumper and tweak it. I just don't trust that type of set up

Uhh, no. Becuase Cylinders 1 and 2 are 180 apart, relative to cam position. If you try to time off of 2, then the valves would have to be set this way as well. You would have to reclock the disty to work either way. You cannot simply do *either or*. It will only run one way. If you installed belts and disty to FSM specs, your number one on the cap should be at the back. If you're #1 is going to the front of the cap, you are 180 off. This is kinduv just nitpicking though, cause if you DID set it up 180, and then timed off of 2, The engine WOULD still be in time. So Mike is somewhat correct. DUUUHHH!! see my later post

This only applies to SPFI EA82s and MPFI 87+. EA82 Carbed disty does not have a CAS in it. It is a simple magnetic pickup disty. There ar etwo types, hitachi and Denso. It is my understanding that each must use the matching coil.

The CEL does go through one of those connectors. But the o2 light that you read the codes on inside the ECU is not the CEL. If you want to set up a "remote" code light, it would need to be soldered.