Gloyale

You have to get behind the panel. By pulling door panels, trunk panels, inner fender and such. The clips must be squeezed and then pushed out of their holes. If you just pry you will garaunteed break the clips. Heck, even if your careful you may break some, so you may want to practice by going to a wrecking yard, and pulling trim on one there. Grab a bunch of the clips as extras.

Actually, this bolt is accessed through a hole in the floor pan, under rear seat. No need to get under car. OP may want to lower more than can be achieved with this bolt.

It may not be a bad sensor. It could be the conection, in which case it would throw the code. But *most* of the time it could still be in contact and functioning. Just a momentary break in the circuit will throw the code and it won't go away till cleared or x number of starts with no problem. Just a guess The thing to do is measure it's resitance across the two terminals. With engine cold. Hook up the leads of an ohmeter between the terminals of sensor. You should get a high resistance value, but something, not infinite. Set it up with clips or spade connectors or something so you don't have to hold the wires with your hands. Make sure the wires are away from the belts and start the car. As the engine warms up the resistance should start to go down. Somewhere around here someone should have the specs for the excact values. If you get Zero resistance, Infinite resistance, or no change with temp. The sensor is bad.

First of it is almost more nessecary, because the ECU uses that on to decide things like fuel ratio, timing, and idle speed. You could damage the plugs, the cat, and possibly the whole engine if you run without it for a long time, as you're running rich. Second, Just *bypassing* and wiring straight through would not turn off the CEL. It's not an *on/off* switch. It is a variable resistor. High resistance cold, lowers when warm but there is always some resistance. You must use a resitor to simulate the resistance value of the sensor when warm. But it has to be something. Wiring straight through would make 0 ohms. The ECU would either short out, or more likely just see this as a bad sensor.

I too have a sketchy light. It comes on sometimes and other times no. Comes on at 1/3 of a tank, then goes off, seldomly reapearing. I trust the gauge, not the light. I have run out of gas with no light on.

My 93 has a Tick that comes and goes. Depending on temp, oil age, level and type. It is definateky a tick, not a Knock. Does the sound your describing happen when revving in neutral? Lifter tick tends to stay the same whether idling or driving, just varies with engine speed. Rod knock will tend to be louder under load, when driving and is a heavy dull sound. I'm guessing you've got a lifter issue, espescially since it seems to vary with the oil condition.

Yeah. it's the clock. They suck. Most go dim, and many stop keeping good time, (like mine)

This is important. You cannot simply use a clamp to compress the front calipers, because the E-brake is built into it. You have to turn the piston CounterClockwise as you push it in to reset the E-brake adjustment. It can be done by carefully grabbing the piston with a big pair of channel locks, but the $10 tool for the job makes it easier to turn and push at the same time. You have to position the piston so the notches line up with the pins on the brakepads before installation. Ceramic pads will eat your rotors. Espescially if you don't use new or resurfaced rotors. Your rotor are not designed for ceramic pads. Use the good quality semi metallic.

This doesn't make sense to me. The heater core cannot simply be pulled into the pasenger compartment. The whole dash must be removed. Then the air distribution box has to be removed, the heater core is mounted inside of it. Hoses too short? Messing with clamps on your back? There are no hoses to be disconnected in the passenger compartment. The hoses end at the firewall. Cutting and splicing will work for the bypass. but isn't nessecary. One hose can be removed, the the other looped around, they are the same diameter(unlike old GM setups) Then he doesn't have to by new hoses later unless these ones are toast.

I did a design very similar when I built my hitch. I made a full *box* out of angle iron to fit inside the cargo box. I then bolted the hitch from underneath to the *box*. I like this design better than just bolting to the recovery hook area, spreads the load alot and it would be almost impossible for it to rip out. It also makes a anti crumple zone in the back, keeps the floor from being crushed into the gastank in a rear ender. I have seen ready made hitches for Loyales/GLs. I have one on my 89 Turbo. It mounts to the recovery hook area and then has a brace that goes further up the *frame* rail and bolts in again. I saw a rusty GL hulk being hauled onto a flatbed by the recovery hooks. They ripped and gave out about half way up the ramp. If your car is rusty I wouldn't mount soley to them. My car is not even slightly rusty, but I want to ditch it and go back to my custom hitch setup. Stay away from the hitches that use the bumper as part of the structure. (1-1/4 inch reciever) I've seen a friend with one of those hithces on his 88 DL. Bumper started sagging and pointing towards the ground after a few moderately heavy(1200 lbs) loads.

If you've got coolant in the car. Your heater core is trashed. It can leak from the core itself(pass floor wet) or from the brass tubes leading through the firewall(drivers floor wet). Either way it needs replaced(remove dash, don't be scared it's not too hard). For now you can by pass it by looping the suppply hose right back to the return hose. Those hoses have coolant in them all the time. t-stat open or not. You will lose some when you disconnect them. But not all of it, no need to drain the whole sysem. Just be ready for some coolant.

Yeah, I redid my exhaust with set of cheddar headers.

It could be that somewhere between the sender and the dash, the wire has been rubbing on something, and has worn through and touches ground occasionally. This would peg the gauge. Make sure that the wire is not grounding.

Are you kidding? The stock studs are only about an inch and half, maybe 2 inches? I don't think I've seen studs any shorter. I suspect that this is just poor stock keeping by the local store. EDIT: yeah, you're in Amish country, your store probably carries buggy parts, not American iron.

The RX is basically a turbo GL 3 door coupe. So as far as what manual to use, you're looking for one that covers DL/GL/Loyales. The Chiltons manual is terrible. It has a jumble of differnet general info for Legacies, Impreza's, SVX's, Justys and Loyales. The Haynes manuals are a little better as they cover just the DL/GL series from 80-89. Although this includes the EA81 Brats and Hatchbacks. It's not bad to have on or both of these manuals, but don't rely on them as definitive info for you're car. You really need a Factory Service Manual. I have one for 88 so if you have specific questions I can try to pass on the info. I may even be able to scan some stuff.

Oh yeah, definately unstake the nut. And If you leave the car all four on the ground, put it in park, and set the e-brake, You shouldn't need to do anything else to hold the axle.

It bolts behind like the front hubs.

Disconect the o2 sensor. With key on /eng. off mesure the connector for voltage. Greater than 0.1 V? Should be some voltage there. If not, mesure for voltage at the ECU connector for pin 34. Greater than 0.1 V? Basically the ECU sends a small signal current to the o2 sensor. this is the only test the FSM gives for the o2 sensor circuit. I was under the impression that there is voltage generated by the o2 sensor as well. I believe it only happens when it reaches high temps, 300-400 degrees. and very small amounts of voltage

Do the 7/16 studs. That is the best way. Leaves room for a bump up to 12mm or for a helicoil in the future. Don't need to drill, just go slow and careful with the tap. And use lots of oil and don't force it.

Yeah man, get some real studs they are cheap. Anywhere with the orange *Dorman* fastener boxes, Napa, or in the *Help* isle. Then you don't have to hacksaw anything, and you get the little hex to use to insert them to the bottom. Drilling first is fine, just don't use too big a bit and don't drill any deeper. There is a coolant passage you will hit if you drill 1/4 in. Tapping the stripped hole without drtilling works just fine too. Just go real slow, use lot's of oil, and back the tap out to clear chips frequently. Don't force it once it bottoms.

Do you have power going to the switch assembly? Does the passenger window work? I had windows not work because of corrosion at the junction were all the 12v leads are crimped to the main wire. That junction is under the passenger floor area carpet. The power window unit, relay and breaker are under the pass seat. That is the key to tracking power supply problems with he PW. There should be a white wire at the relay with 12v always. Have you checked Fusible Link 3 under hood? It supplies the main voltage for the windows via the relay when ignition is *on*. I can scan the specific diagrahm on monday if you still really need.

Loyale2.7 drilled his to some smaller 4 bolt pattern. 4x110 maybe? Something smaller so I think it would be possible. But with 5 you'll end up with one or two of the holes being really close.

I used a 1/2 inch breaker to do this recently. I had to put a long *cheater pipe* on it but it worked. I suppose you could break one too if you get a stubborn nut. If you've already put the car in the air and removed wheels, you can use a 3 foot long section of angle iron as a stopper for the hub. Wedge it between two wheelstuds and brace it against the ground.

The single wire O2 sensors in EA82s are dirt cheap. Like 20 bucks. Some are listed higher but they are all basically the same generic single wire sensor.

Every Subaru I've ever owned has had some degree of the tick.(even the Legacy 2.2) Some just at cold start or when due for an oil change. Others had it perpetualy and needed seals or a new pump. And even then still a few have ticked needing new HLA's. BUT in light of that, the tick has never caused any other problems in and of itself, and even a persistant ticker can still be a reliable car. Just do really regular oil changes. Change the seals or even the whole pump next time you do the timing belts. I would run a little heavier oil, 10w40. If it is being caused by drastically low oil pressure, that would be the only time I would consider it really serious. Otherwise take care of it when it's time to do other service.