Gloyale

I'm in Kenosha Wisconsin. I do lot's of work on different types of cars. I do have a lot of experience, tools and parts for GL/Loyales. I could be considered a *guru* for these cars. I have a 93 legacy and some experience with them as well, but not to the that level. What type of Subaru are you working on? And what do you need done?

I can see why the name. But.....uuhhh.... no. not for my car. however, ***** five stars for blizzard safety:headbang:

Even if you buy an new one, you NEED to clean out the passages or else it won't work right. If it's working there really is no reason to buy another. If it's clogged and not working the passages will be clogged too. Find a street sweeper bristle, or an old bicycle spoke to use as a scraper.

Damn, I just left my 87 FSM at the Machine shop with the engine I just dropped off. I wnated them to have a set of Factory engine specs. And unfortunately I only have the Section 2-3 Engine and Tranny portion for 87. So I don't have ALL the Wiring answers. But there is a fair deal of Engine wiring covered in the Fuel injection portion of Section 2(engine) Long story short I can't tell you the wire color. Generally the wires often are different color from one end to another. I'll look into it. In other years, it appears to be a continuos wire from the snesor to the ECU, so it would be the same color I believe. But I can't say for 87. Which, BTW is the oddball year for everything. So you gotta make sure you get the right info

Test the diaphram of the EGR with a vacuum pump and see if it holds.(Or you can compress it by hand then plug the vaccum and see if it stays open. If it does not the diaphram is shot)) If The diaphram is holding vacuum, you can just clean the body of the valve. Soak just the bottom, not the shaft in some carb cleaner/keroseen/ some klinda solvent. Then let it dry and scrape off what ever else you can. Make sure it is sliding smooth and operating when vaccum is applied. Put a tiny bit of lithium grease on the shaft where it slides through the base. Then scape and pick all the crap out of the passages too. I use a shop vac with a series of fittings to reduce the tube down to a piece of 5/16 vinyl hose to get suction down in the manifold. Reinstall and you're good to go. Check that the vaccuum tube going to it is no cracked or hardened. If so, replace.

The law here is that you're frnt turn signals have to be amber. So if I used the front portion of the side markers, I'd have to put an amber bulb in it. I didn't bother running both wires either, just the 12v cause the ground wires are all tied toghether in the harness anyway.

What about using a higher wattage bulb? how about an amber one on top of that?

j-yard close to here has a 91 legacy wagon. 2WD. Guy say's his interchange tell's him no fit. I can't see how that would be? He might have a loyale back there and be getting confused?

a timing light does not tell you anything about the conditon of the belts and pulleys. The pump is driven by the smooth side of the timing belt. If you're belt is old and hardened, it can slip over the water pump pulley. Espescially if the tensioner or pulley is dragging causing unussual tension. This may not be you're problem. But I am sure the problem is not becuase of bad engineering. My 93 2.2 has never had cooling issues with 290,000 miles on it.

I made the Little yellow light into a blinker in addition to the bumper mount. It takes it away as a running light, but the clear/front marker is still there and on with the headlights. What I did was simply snip the hot wire of the side marker. You have to cut back some of the black plastic covering the wires to get above the split for the 2 bulbs. I then just tapped a wire into the turn signal harness at the bumper and ran it up to the hot wire for the yellow light. No need to mess with the ground. Now both the bumper light and the corner light blink. Not very visible in day but at night it is great. I have much more faith that people can actually see my signal from the side.

New engines are very expensive. And used Turbo motors are just as questionable. I am coming to believe rebuilding them is the only way to be assured they are good. Surface the heads and block. Get any cracks in the exhaust valves welded. Split the case and fit new bearings. Install new rings. Good to go. If you want to spend more money and can find them you could fit new pistons and bore over. But you probably don't need to. Heck justy having the heads welded if they are cracked and resealing it is probably all you need. Except what is the condition of the turbo if it's been overheated?

For SPFI, there is a tube that comes out of the pass head, out of the top of the exhaust port. Short elbow with a heat sheild on it. Runs up into the manifold.

I hauled a trailer weighing at least 1300 lbs cross country in the winter. The northern route. I also had myself, 2 big dogs and a packed (500 lbs?) That was in an 86 GL carbed D/R. With 250,000 miles! It did fine. I had it for 25,000 more miles before and after that, then sold it as a winter/second car to a young couple with a brand new Forrester. That was an Oregon car, ie no rust. The couple couldn't believe it was an 86 and had 277,000 miles when I sold it. You don't see ANY 86 anything here in Wisconsin ussually. Let alone with zero rust.

I was thinking something was weird there too. 50 inches is 2.5 times higher than the FSM spec of 19.5 inHg

Right off the bat, That compression is way too low. Specs for this engine are 155-185 psi. could be rings or really dirty valves. Probably rings. That explains alot but not everything Still, there may be another problem. If you got a crank angle sensor code, you should check it's connection and clean it. If you continue to get theat code, replace the the crank angle sensor. The way you're describing *kicking down* the accelerator seems funny. That might affect a Throttle sensor code, but how could it affect the Crank sensor? Are you relying on the same questionable book for the codes? BTW, I think you measured the Oil Light sender, under the alt. Both coolant sensors are located in the back of the manifold. Very obscured by hoses and stuff but it's there

Check all the hoses espescially the heater hoses. The ones that run from the back of the engine into the cab. You have to remove the spare tire to see them. Check them out really well, when they leak it is ussually steam or it just hits the exhaust an disipates. And it is the high point of the system so it won't leak at all when sitting, only after it pressurizes. Cost is about 5 bucks to replace with 5/8 heater hose If you replace those hoses, and you're car is a manual, just be sure you make them long enough to bow away from the clutch fork/cable assembly. I even looped a zip tie around mine There is also a small hose running from the carb base in front, over the manifold, and T's into another tube. And the *hose to you know where* from under the Tstat onto the block under manifold. You can change it if you need to since you have a carb manifold(turbos it's almost imposible). But it is way easier to do with the manifold off, say if you ever need headgaskets:burnout:

Damn. Yeah a missing dipstick would be about the onl;y way to get oil up on the side of belhousing. Find a spec for the amount of fluid in the diff, drain and refill to the spec. Then put a cork in it, till ya get a stick.

Sure the inner CV boot for on that side didn't start puking? Could have a split or a little crack but still look intact. I wouldn't think gearoil would make it to the side of the belhousing. But check it as well. dipstick is right down there short little loop or T stickin up out of the side of Diff.

For the sprayer you can check the function of the little one way valve in the filler tube, about 10 inches up the hose to sprayer from resevior(rear left quarter). It's probably just stuck or corroded. Pumps working cause it sprays after a minute or two. As far as coolant leaks. does it smoke at all? What's the condition of the heater hoses? when they leak it's ussually as steam while because they are about the highest point in the system, and it ussually shows very subtle or no external signs. Check those hoses and clamps real good. Do(or get done) a compression test, or a cylinder leakdown test. That will tell you if you've got a blown HG. If Compression is good, and really no external leaks, then you may have cracks in the exhaust ports of you're heads. Ussually this is accompanied by smoke but not always. If you pull the exhaust pipe off the back of the turbo, and the wastegate area looks foggy brownish grey that can be a sign of coolant in the exhaust. Could go one further and pull the uppipe/crossover and look up in the exhaust ports of heads. Check the edges where the wall across the middle meets each side. This pic shows one of the cracks. they can crack at the other edge too.(not visible)

Glad to hear it! :clap: :headbang: :grin: I figured they were gonna have trouble getting out of such an obvious mistake. He totally should pay the towing as well. both times. towed home, towed back right? They didn't even bother to look hard enough, sent you away saying "we can't do anything". If they had looked harder they could have found the mistake and fixed it without towing anywhere. Better yet, if they had noticed the terrible slop when installing the oversized axle(I CAN"T BELIEVE THEY DIDN"T) then you would have just gotten the right ones before anything got broke. You got enough to go to small claims for the towing both ways.

I agree with Nipper:eek: lol Get a different shop. Most *general* or non-subaru mechanics are WAAAYYYY!!!! to eager to say "OH it's the heads" or Headgasket in this case. They don't even know you can do that job engine in car, Duh!! They would probably see the little valve cracks after pulling the heads, and tell you you need new ones(BTW, nearly all of these engines get tiny cracks, right between valves in each chamber. They are fine) If this is a turbo, it may be that you've got the other cracks, in the exhaust passage. But on a non-turbo probably not. Are you overheating? Do you have any white smoke? Oil in coolant or vise versa? Any wettness on the t-belt covers under the pump?

So I need to replace my front Right(pass) knuckle. The casting broke down at the pinch bolt for the Balljoint. The unthreaded *tab* just cracked off, maybe I pryed it open a bit too far and cracked it. Then when bolting it back down tight it just snapped off. Becuase of the recess for the bolt in the Balljoint, it still bolted down tight and acheived some clamping action, but I do not want to drive on it any more than I have too til I get a new knuckle. What years and models interchange? I'm thinking any 1st gen(89-94) Legacy would work. Is there any difference between Sedan, Wagon, Turbo etc? Also what about 95-99 non-outback Legacies? What about Outbacks? What about imprezas? I need to know what I can use from a J-yard. Unless someone here has one they want to ship me?

Then m12, sorry, I got confused

You must be looking at a different year FSM. The 87 SPFI diagrahm shows O2 wire goes to pin 34 of ECU( 4th pin in from right, bottom row with lock tab up, large yellow connector.)

M10 is what I bump up to if the 7/16 stud ever strips out. It's fortunate in a case like this that the Metric and Standard sizes fall in between eachother.