Gloyale
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Everything posted by Gloyale
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First, what makes you believe you need a new engine. The Rgular EA82 in your loyale is fairly new, for these motors, and the SPFI set-up is by far the most reliable and fuel efficient for these cars. Tear it down, put a new set of bearings and rings in it, new seals, and drive it for a 150,000 more miles. You won't notice a huge difference in power going to the Turbo, and it will be alot of work. If you are down for it then do it, but a swap of anykind is going to be more time and money than just rebuilding you're engine. Or even just dropping in an already rebuilt longblock from RAM or CCR.
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intake manifold bolt question
Gloyale replied to hatchsub's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I'd have to disagree with pisces_0. I have removed just one of the bolts before for access to something(I forget what) but I've done it several occasions. As long as you don't break the bolt. Some are really rusty and prone to breaking, but most I've seen just come right out after. I would resnug all of them when done. I have never had an intake manifold leak, from doing this or otherwise. -
This is wrong. 16 blinks is just the number of times it flashes when there is a code. The code must be output or read with a scanner. The code could be for one of anywhere from 11(first gen 4eat) to15 or16 different sensors and solenoids through the years and incarnations. You'd still get 16 flashes, even for code 5 or 7 or 10. There is a sequence of turning the key off and on with the shifter in different positions in sequence to output the codes, but I don't know it for a 97. Look around for the proceedure thought. They can also be read by a dealer and maybe others. If you have a torque bind issue, it is possible that the code is for the C solenoid. But even still, you could have torque bind, not have a C sol. code, yet still have other problem in transmission. In fact the stalling indicates there may well be another problem, because I don't see how the C sol. could cause this.
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As far as suspension, There is a big difference between the XT(4) VS. XT6. The XT shared all it's running gear with the EA82 wgn/sdn/cp. So your suspension and wheel choices would be limited. And probably not up to the task of supporting the 6cyl. (Loyale2.7 solved this by using Tempo front springs). Find an XT6 to start with if your're gonna do it. You'd have to find one to scavenge 5 lug swap parts from anyhow. I like the Idea of using the EZ30. readily available and cheaper for a whole clip as opposed to the expensive, rare, and heavy SVX motor.
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EA82s only had a clutch fan if it had A/C. maybe backwards from EA81. So if your EA82 did not have A/C, it will not have a clutch fan, unless it is added. Therefore I would say the tne factory electric fan is fine, unless you are actually running you're A/C
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Is this reffering to a Stock 7.7 cr engine, or a hi-comp. You've talked of 50,000 miles on a hi-comp turbo? What cr? and what set-up(intake,ECU,Turbo,boost psi?) I am ready to install some pistons, and I need to make a descision on which to use. Would my Carb 9:1 cr pistons work?reliably? Building up with new rings and bearings obviously.
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Ticking HLA's (I know, I know...)
Gloyale replied to PonchoCatalina's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I've noticed that placing the HLA into there bores with the holes up helps. They are free to just spin and turn any way after that, but in general I think they stay put. Still likely to tick though. -
Well, I am gonna be running a Spyder intake and a small boost bump on the stock turbo(from 7psi up to about 9 or10). And a small TMIC from a Isuzu impulse. Other than that it will be stock for now.(thinking about 8.x compression pistons) Flow shouldn't be a problem yet. But I am going to use new/rebuilt injectors so I was wondering if it might be worth it to run an upgrade.
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okay, so how do I bump up my fuel pressure a bit. Different regulator? or perhaps a small *orifice* plug to restrict vaccum to the regulator?
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What on earth do you mean? A spring as a Strut rod? I gotta see some pics.
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I know EA82s use a different setup, but the position that the control arm is bolted to the trailing arm determines both toe and camber for the rear wheels. Adjusted by the 3 bolts that hold the trailing arm to the inner control arm. There is even a few diagrams in the FSM about adjusting it. I have had to mess with my allingment in the rear of my wagons. Also, take a look at the rubber bushings that the control arms pivot on. One car I had they had shifted in the arm, or rather the arm had shifted on them. The arm was pushed all the way to the edge of the bushing, and was rubbing against the pivot bracket. Gave me pretty bad rear allingment. I had to remove the arms and repress the bushing to it's correct position.(I know I should have changed them, but this was in the winter rust mobile. I can't justify the money on a car that is disintegrating)
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New pistons/rings for EA82Turbo 1800 ?
Gloyale replied to discopotato03's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Please update us. That would be something, not TOO expensive to get a set shipped. -
A large open ended wrench, prefferably one of those funny ones with the parrallel offsets. That's what the FSM shows If you get the old one out clean, no need to drop exhaust or re tap. EDIT: well after further review I guess what the FSM shows is a funky subaru tool, like a bent, box end crows foot thing. Sorry, I've only owned Carbed or Turbo
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What engine would an 86 wagon have?
Gloyale replied to regularman's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I'm converting a Carbed block into a turbo right now actually. Physical differences are small, and can be solved with a few plugs(ASV pipe holes, EGR) The only real big difference is the lack of the baffle plate/vent for the case. I've heard that's no big deal, seems like it shouldn't be, as the case can still breath through the valve covers. -
Two more questions: park light and electric fan
Gloyale replied to stickedy's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
You're right about the fan having power always and being grounded by either the theromswitch, or the A/C rad fan relay. It's not the same as the A/C power relay. A/C fan relay is seperate, activated by the pressure switch in the A/C line. But the computer(ECU) is not involved. It cannot signal or sense the radiator fan in any way. They are not connected, it's all relays and switches. I have seen just a few of those *super sedans* here. Very cool, higher top would be nice for cargo and wake-up head room on camping trips. -
Specs fro EA82 here list Carbed 9.0, SPFI,MPFI non-turbo 9.5. Turbo 7.7 The EA81 carbed are 8.7? If they fit an EA82, and are at all sturdy, they might make good pistons for a turbo EA82. Is the wrist pin position relative to the deck the the same? Same length and diameter wrist pin?
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Will ea81 pistons fit my ea82? I know the bore and stroke are the same for these engines, but what about wrist pin diameter and placement? are the 8.7:1 pistons notched for valve clearance? does anybody have any pics of them?
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so that's where all my oil was going
Gloyale replied to Subaru_dude's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
These pictures show the Headgasket, head surface, and Block surface. Circled the area in blue where the gasket leaves a *gap* once it is bolted between head and case. Red line is the edge of the gaskt in the one photo, it was hard to see in the blurry photo. I think this is what you are seeing on your car. If you've got oil down the front of the head and block, you're camshaft seals are probably leaking behind the timing covers. -
so that's where all my oil was going
Gloyale replied to Subaru_dude's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I can't tell what I'm seeing excactly there. But you know there are some cavitys around the exhaust that are visible to look into. That is normal. But I have seen many a soob have external HG leaks. -
If it allowed it to *rotate* on the throtllebody, I suppose it could be. Perhaps the idles switch is not making contact at the right point? Any other type of TPS problem I would think youd get a code. Do you get any codes? I had weird stalling on deceleration or coasting problems when my speed sensor went out, but that was on a Legacy.
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What engine would an 86 wagon have?
Gloyale replied to regularman's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
The RX he wants to put this in is already wired for MPFI. Problem is if you get a non turbo block and put all the turbo stuff on it you will have too high a compression ratio. (9 or 9.5 to 1 for standard pistons, 7.7 is what trubo is supposed to have. -
What engine would an 86 wagon have?
Gloyale replied to regularman's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
It's an EA82. But in 86 it could be Carbed, SPFI, MPFI, or MPFI turbo. -
Sadly, I'm sure you are. It's not plug and play. BUT, all the wires are there in similar plugs, it's just they use different pins for most all of it. You could easily remove the wires pin by pin and reinsert in the proper connector to fit a tach dash. The tach wire itself would have to be run, as well as power tapped for the Volmeter, and either an oil pressure wire run(requires installing sender into pump) or just swap the little panel that holds the *oil* light panel into the bezel, and keep the light only.
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Replace that battery before you fry the Alternator. Also, did you replace the idler pulley and tensioner? Did you check that they were still good at least? New belt as well? sorry if I haven't read if you posted this already. Timing belt could be slipping over the WP pulley, and not driving it fully enough to circulate properly. A bad tensioner could throw off both the pump and the timing. Causing overheating, poor performance.
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It could be done, but it would require some rewireing. you'd have to rearrange everything to match all the connections for existing gauges. Then tap a wire into the neg(-) side of coil, or the ignition pulse wire of the ECU. Not TOOooo hard actually. Wiring the oil pressure unit would be an additional problem, but you could leave the idiot light operational, so you wouldn't be worse off.