Gloyale

They made carbed models til 87. The carb intake bolts right on to the SPFI block. However to hook up some of the EGR and Factory silencer stuff would require so tapping of a port on the head and plugging another one on the other head. If you wanted, you could ditch one or both of those systems and plug it all. Put any carb you want on it or just leave the hitachi. You could just bolt the intake and carb from you're 85 motor right onto it. BUT, if you want to buy an extra carb, complete intake, and even a Disty and coil from a good running 87 with 96,000miles I'll sell it to ya, good deal:clap:

You're counting right, but that is where the Axleshaft goes into the inner CV portion. I was reffering to the count of the stub coming out of the side of the transmission. it's either 23 or 25(25 on turbos only)

Part one is the Axle stub shaft, or just stub. Part Two is the inner CV joint cup, a part of the complete axle assembly they installed. Problem is they installed 25 spline turbo axles on your car. The ones you need are 23 spline. That is reffeering to the number of "teeth" on axle stub. Which is the thing stick out of the trans spinning. The axle they installed has a bigger hole than the axle stub. The pin is only supposed to keep it from sliding in and out, like you are doing. It broke because it is not supposed to take any rotational, or driving power. And because the stub can spin freely, no power is transmitted to the other axle. Just like being stuck in mud, one wheel spins, the other sits still. Tell them to get you the right axles. 23 Spline, Non-Turbo axle your're trans is fine. Did you ever check the hub however?

It won't. But it is relevant to the rest of us here in the OLD GEN forum talking about getting a little lift.

If you can find them, the OEM 85,86 shocks are adjustable. I was very lucky and found a set of NOS ones for my 86. Too bad I sold it. DAMN! I want my shocks back.

Honestly, 26 doesn't seem that bad to me. I've never had an SPFI EA82. But all of my Carbed ones, 25-28 was the best I could ever get. And that was on long, exclusively highway trips cross country. When I delivered pizza for a while in my 86 carbed, I would get around 19-23 depending on how much I rushed it that night. That was all city driving. All of the suggestions here(bearings,fluids,draggin brakes, etc.) are good but I don't know how much more you'll really get from it. It is 20 years old as well. Mileage will go down on any given engine overtime, regardless of all other factors.

Th prestone flush is good stuff. Flush it out, fill it with good coolant, and go. You'll be fine. I've never had a problem overheating in a soob that had a full radiator. What are the condition of you're hoses? that is the real issue. If a hose bursts you will surely overheat. I would worry way more about hoses than anything else. I always carry 3 feet of 5/8 heaterhose. 3 feet of 1/4 hose(TB hoses, hose to you know where) and and elbow 5/8 hose(WP return from heater) and both upper and lower Rad hoses(J-yard for a spare set). BTW, the 5/8 elbow at the WP is almost never in stock for a Soob. And regular hose will kink in that tight of a bend. Solution, WP elbow for any year ford V8(well up to 90ish, not the 4.6)

Definately change the plug wires as well. They should really be changed every 20-30k miles. Yet most cars with 100-150K miles still have their original wires. My 93 Legacy ran like crap, stalling and sputtering, for awhile a few years ago. Mom was ready to sell it(this was before I bought it from her). We changed the plug wires and VROOOM! Also it's a good idea to change the O2 sensor. Also is anyone else thinking maybe his t-belt or tensioner could be loose/skipping? Big loss of power there

Now let's hope that the TCU isn't affected now. I wouldn't think having the C solenoid circuit grounded would be good for it.

If your bridging across it's connector, and get nothing, then it is likely a power supply issue like cougar says. And 198 - 208F is what the book says for the switch.

You're measuring the Thermosensor. Not the THERMOSWITCH What you are measureing is the sensor that tells the ECU what temp the engine is at in order to run efficiently. It does not control the Fan. Isn't anyone else catchin that. The Switch is mounted IN THE RADIATOR. It is either on. (0.000 ohms) or off(infinite resistance). Use a jumper at it's connection and the fan should come on. Note: the only way this wouldn't be true is if the German ECU and fan setup is completely different in this regard. But US models use a simple on/off thermoswitch, nothing with variable resistance.

Here is where the relay would be. I'm not sure but I think the fan relay may only be for A/C equiped cars. Used to supplementally turn on the Fan during A/C use, regardless of Temp Switch in Radiator

Are you sure you're testing the right switch? It is located in the radiator, on the edge, near electric fan connector. The reason I ask is because it is a switch, and therefore should have either zero ohms or infinite ohms. And neither pole should have continuity to the body of the switch either. What resistance values where you testing for? where you testing the Thermosensor for the ECU? Can you tell me the years of your car and your donor digidash car? I can look through my FSMs. I am suspect that one of he dash illumination wires is hooked up wrong, or perhaps a diode was left out of the wiring? The digidash does require a few diodes. They are wired up as 2 pole plugs with the diode capped on to it in the digidash harness. You may have missed them when you pulled the digidash. But I can't remeber which circuits and in what direction the flow is managed, and if that could cause what you're describing

I've got a good used TC from an 88 2WD Turbo 3AT. I'll give it to ya if you pay shipping and you think it will work. I'll cross reference in my books and see what they say. What is the spacing on the Flexplate to TC bolts?

There is ALOT more involved in a swap than just droppin in a motor. First you have to buy an adapter plate($185) Then a motor($300-1000 depending on conditon and type)Then a whole Management system or all the extras and ECU from a donor car($?) Then you gotta get FSMs to make sure you wire it right. it's alot of work and money. And not everyone is gonna do it. And It is not what this thread is about. He didn't ask should I do an EJ conversion. He asked about the EA82t. Lots of us are happy to do our tinkering with EAs. If you wanna do an EJ swap fine. But don't be negative towards people who want to do stuff to there EA. You have a tendancy to believe what you think and want from a vehicle are the "best". Sadly, that is not always the case. I am here to answer questions that are asked, and ask my own. Not to tell others what to do.

Anybody got any pics of these EA81 pistons? And are they for sure a direct fit for the EA82? Or do they need to be modified?

Spare us the "EA82 is the devil, and the EJ is your savior" bit. You don't want this thread to get longer? Don't post in it. EJ swaps are cool and great, but not everyone is going to do a conversion. It's alot more than most people want to tackle. this thread is about modding an ea82. If you wanna talk about that then please do. But I personally don't need to hear again why the sky will fall if I don't get an EJ. "oops, the headlights busted, better do an EJ swap":lol:

Have you tried a new ECU? I've read about a few recently here that were bad. Crazy idle and running problems, then new ECU and it's fine. Whos' thread was that?

Does anyone find this statement ironic? More important things, like posting insults in a thread about a problem that was fixed 3 days ago! BTW, I think he used a stud. But he just tapped the stripped hole, no drilling(fine as long as you don't force the tap). Best of both worlds eh?

It isn't that hard. Removing the donor glass is the hard part. Installing the new glass is easy, just get a roll of butyl-acetate rubber. Scrape away most of the old sealant(no need to get it all) then lay in the Acetate roll, and set the new window. I think that style is easier than trying to install the rubber gasket type.

I've never seen those little cracks cause a problem. Look in the exhaust portsfrom the bottom. If there is any cracks in there, then you may have trouble. They can be very hard to see cause of all the carbon. I wouldn't worry too much however. I have only seen exhaust port cracks on turbo EA82s though.

Notes to what cracker said. Your Loyale, the green connectors are under the hood, by wiper motor. After doing the check proceedure, if the ECS light on dash blinks then stays lit, check codes. If it blinks and keeps blinking then you have no codes. Since no codes but the model code(that's what the 5 flashes are) came up without either connected, that means you didn't have any active codes to begin with. If you want to read past codes, do the same proceedure, but with only the white "read" connector under dash hooked up. This will output stored codes that are not currently active, but have occurred in the past. Often bad connections will cause a code to set momentarily, then fix itself, leaving the code behind. If you get a code in READ mode, but not in D-check(that's the green connectors) then it may be a connection related, intermittent problem

This trick works awesome. I had to remove the crank bolt from an engine stting on my stand. No flywheel, so nothing to lock with a screwdriver(or the top of the spare tire jack, that's another "on car" trick). I though "hey, i'll try that rope trick!" worked great. Took about 8 feet of rope to fill the cylinder. Be careful though. I could not believe the amount of grit and crap that fell down the hole while I was feeding in the rope. When I got around later to pulling the head, there was a small pile of grit that looked really scary.(if you think about it in a running engine) I will never ever pull a spark plug on a EA again without first using a Street sweeper bristle and some carb cleaner to blast and rinse away all the crap that fills in around those spark plug holes. And then a shop vac once the plug is pulled to get the remainder.

Here is a pic of the two pistons. You should check out the "splitting headache" thread in the retrofit forum. It has some good pics of the pistons( an NA one sawed in half) long thread but the piston pics, and a sketch of my head idea are there starting on the 3rd page or so.

My diagram show six wires coming out of it. One has another wire spliced to it before it goes tho the connector, and another wire is shielded. It's shielding occupies another spot on the connector. Making 8 total at the plug. Are there 8 pins in the plug? My diagram actually shows a 9 pin plug there but with 8 wires. would be thewse colors Black w/red black w/yellow Black w/White White Green(white and green run inside the shield, and are the signal wires for the knock sensor itself) Black( grounding for the shield) Red /Green Yellow