Gloyale

I had to backflush my heater core(garden hose trick) before I could get it to bleed properly and have the swooshing go away. A certain amount "slosh" is really common and not ussually a big deal. Look for other symptoms and their causes in the cooling system.

Curiously, or perhaps not, leaking heater hoses from engine to firewall will leak on the exhaust pipe and cause the interior to smell like coolant. If the interior REALLY smells like coolant, and you actually can see steam/smoke coming out of the vents, then you have a heater core busted. It could also be something else but leaks at those hoses always make a stink.

Probably would be fine to just run it. Non turbo HG's last quite awhile (150,000+). That would certainly be the less expensive option. And you probably would be good to go for years as long as you keep it cool. BUT... Doing the HGs and other seals is good insurance, and will give you a chance to inspect the cylinder walls for pitting, since it's been sitting for 2 years or more. Now would be the time to do it if you got the time and money. Sounds like you already are spending alot of both already. Do you want to double them both?

I can't tell you the part number right now. Tonight I can when I'll be home. But they are just a form of overload/bottom out bumper. They have probably just fallen off of your other ones. The tend to espescially in places where they salt roads. Not really nessecary at all

Bump for an update

He fixed it already.

I had to replace one in an 84 EA81. I don't know about 87 but I am sure Carbed EA81's had them at least until 84.

You can't make the piston travel any "higher" in the cylinder. It already goes right to the top Turbo and NA. The Turbo pistons are not shorter overall, they just have a "tub" cast into the middle. But the outer edge is just as tall as a NA piston. Externally they have the excact same dimension, with the exception that the Turbo piston skirts are longer. As far as piston construction, they have slotted oil return, both Turbo and NA. The rings appear to be the same. But I think there is a slight difference in the type of top ring use. Carb pistons are 9:1, SPFI and Non-turbo MPFI pistons are 9.5:1. Someone else will have to answer the EA81 question, I'd love it if they are a direct fit. The rods are beefy enough but minimal. I think modifying them would be questionable, and expensive probably

CHeck the "revolution sensor" It is a small relay lookin box with a "mitsubishi" 3 diamond logo on it. Held on by th ebolts holding the hood release or real close. If has to sense a pulse from the coil or else the fuel pump will not run. It also powers the auto choke and the Anti Dieseling solenoid, so if it isn't working the car won't run. Just a guess. If you've got a diagram of that thing you can bypass it.

What your describing makes me think of a few things. 1. Wandering timing. When was the last time you checked your belt timing and tension? It really shouldn't wander at idle. Maybe 2 degrees but not 5. If the belt tension is good, i'm suspect of the distributor. I've seen photoelectric pickup distys cause trouble when they get old and dirty.( and get WD-40 sprayed in them) It has a thin plate with 360 tiny slots in it. If even one or two of them get a film of oil or something else covering it, the Computer has a hard time figuring out where the engine is positioned and when to spark. You've got the oldest possible SPFI disty as well. Maybe grab a used one from a 90 up Loyale. 2. Low idle, worse in gear. This could be a governor issue or some other trans issue causing the line pressure in trans to be too high at idle. Line pressure should drop very low at idle, allowing the forward clutch to disengage and the engine to spin free from trans. Basically engine is bogging down against the force the brakes holding car still. Maybe. I think this is it because the idle is so affected by being in gear as opposed to in P or N. Possibly exsacerbated by funky timing. Get the linepressure in the trans checked. May need a new governor (they are notorious for failing). A quick check is to pull the Vacuum line going to the governor on trans, and see if it has ATF residue in it. If so, the governor diaphram is busted. 3. Raise the idle slightly. There is an adjustment scew behind the IAC. it is a flathead, recessed scew. Turn it up slightly as a temporary drivability fix.

Is it worse under load while driving? If so it could be "the worst"

Possibly a misadjusted clutch, making the throwout bearing ride on the fingers of the pressure plate. Otherwise I'd say it's the pinion shaft bearing in the transmission.

Or here is another option. this looks pretty nice. I wonder is the lister on here? Maybe he's been reading you're post http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Subaru-1800-cylinder-head-right-sd-loyale-engine-86-94_W0QQitemZ140095484423QQihZ004QQcategoryZ33617QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

To clear the codes, Connect both the green "test" connector under hood and the white(or black) "read" connectors under dash. Turn the key to on(engine off) and depress accelerator pedal fully and then return it to halfway, hold it there for 2 seconds, then release. Start engine,warm it up and/or drive around the block. ECS light chould go off, stay off for 20-30 seconds, then blink. If it does, then all codes are cleared and none are present at that moment. Turn off and disconnect both sets of connectors. If the ECS light does not go off, or goes out but then comes on and stays on then start over reading the new codes. Turn off car, unplug "test" connectors. turn the key to on with just the read connectors plugged in. That's read mode. If you get a code there then run D-check mode. Connect only the Test connectors, then turn key to on(eng off) and do the full, half, off thing with the throttle. The Fuel pump will be cylcling and the ECS light blinking. Start engine, warm it up and drive a bit. ECS light should go off at first and then either blink if everything is fine, no code. If it comes on and stays on again there is a code. check the code. Is it the same as read mode? Repair, clear codes, and repeat as nescesary

Caboobaroo has several turbo motors and heads. Also talk to CrawlerDan. If you really just want to get one head or a used set maybe they've got em.

Hve you tested it yet? Many many times there is a connection issue. Seems the ECU is vary sensitive to this sensor, and just a bit of corrosion or loosness can throw the code and cause running trouble, even overheating.

Sourcing a good used head is an option. However I think most used EA82T heads have the same cracks. The cracks between the valves are common on all EA82s turbo or not. Generally they are no big deal, espescially if there still fairly small. I've never seen those cracks cause trouble. Now the exhaust cracks. Personnally I have more piece of mind after having them ground out and welded up. Just grabbing a used head with no cracks, is fine. But what if it is one hard pull away from cracking? If there is a good race motor builder in your area, talk to them. They will be able to point you to a good welder. Junkyards ussually want to sell a whole motor, not just heads, let alone one head. Having it wleded will almost surely be cheaper than buying a whole motor. Maybe if someone has a set here you could score one cheap. But then you still have a used head that's gonna crack when? I would pull the other head and at least replace the HG. I'll bet that head has the valve cracks too. Nearly all of them do. But that's no worry. You should always do the HG pairs. Headgaskets are ussually sold as a pair anyways.

It's on the engine. On a SPFI(non-turbo) engine, it's very near the Thermostat cover, where the top radiator hose attaches to the engine. It's about the diameter of a quarter, with 2 wires coming off it. 4 inch leads to a black or green connector. On a MPFI(turbo) engine it has is located on the back side of the intake under a bunch off crap. Turbo ones just have the wiring plug right into it, no leads attached. There is also another temp sensor, but it has nothing to do with the ECU. It is the one that sends to the dash temp gauge. That one is smaller, with a single tab on it. It is only used for the gauge. The electric switch mounted inside the radiator(pass. side, halfway up side of rad.) is for the electric cooling fan

Good luck. I think one of the only places I''ve been able to find turbo pistons is from RAM engines. NA pistons are thinner decked, so removing a bit of meat to drop them to 8.x compresion seems scary. Maybe aftermarket NA pistons would be thicker? Perhaps you could do a tub like the Turbo pistons but shallower on a set of them? I have really been thinking about making some "low compression" heads by removing a bit of material. Perhaps this would allow using the NA pistons reliably in a turbo?

The code means that there is trouble in the circuit. it is not a diagnosis that the Temp Sensor(CTS) is bad. The Temp sensor is particulary prone to corrosion caused contact problems. Make sure that the connectors are clean and shiny. You can test the CTS easily with an ohm meter. Measure resistance between the two terminals of the sensor. Cold, the resistance should be fairly high. around 2000-5000 ohms (2-5 kohms). Warmed up, the resistance should measure only 100-300 ohms. If it measures less than 100 ohms, zero, or infinte, it is bad.

Simply tapping the stripped factrory stud hole works fine. Lots of cutting oil(or WD) and go very slow and easy, backing out the tap ever so often to clear the chips. I can attest to having done this many times with no trouble on many soobs. NotHelicoiling it now also leaves the option for it later, should another teardown/rebuild may see that hole strip again. (seems like they always do!) Helicoils are tricky. And if you don't already have the set, are expensive. (relative to studs and a tap) If you just have one stud that popped loose causing an exhaust leak, tapping and stud can be done to a single stud, leaving exhaust in place, without distrubing the other 3 bolts. Which would likely lead to having to "fix" 3 more holes than you wanted to do this weekend:)

Yes, please do. I'd like to see pics of everybody's trick and tools. There is a thread for it 'round here somewhere

I don't like threading untreated mild steel into an Alloy engine. Weak, and bad for corrosion. What do you got against using actual 7/16 exhaust studs? They do make them. And I bet you could get em for $3 bucks as well. No hacksawing. And good ones have some measure of corrosion protection.

This applies to EJs.(legacy,impreza,etc..) EA motors definately use a gasket. It is a different gasket each for EA81 and EA82.

one other note on doors. 85 doors have the side view mirror seperated from the window section. meaning the mirror ia attached to the meatel poart of the door and the window comes to a point all the way to front of door frame behind the mirror. Later doors the mirror just occupies a triangle in the front of frame and the window stops at it's edge.