Gloyale

22mm socket

Well, Mike, this is correct for 85-86. But in 87 they changed the Carbed Cams to be the same as the SPFI in.=10/54 ex.=49/15 SPFI Cams continued the same till the end of the EA82. As far as lift. For all EA82s, total cam Lobe height should be 39.80 mm +- .05mm (39.70 +-.05 for 85-86 Carb and MPFI Turbo) Subtract the measurement of the round part of the cam lobe from this total height of the Lobe, that should be the lift. Here are other EA82 Cam specs. Note these are the angles that valves begin to open and finish closing: 85 MPFI non-turbo IN. 12 btdc/58 abdc EX. 58 bbdc/12 atdc 85-86 MPFI TURBO IN. 3 btdc/51 abdc EX. 47 bbdc/7 atdc(same as carb) 87-91 MPFI Turbo= IN. 14 btdc/56 abdc EX. 56 bbdc/14 atdc 89+ MPFI Non-turbo(spyder XT) IN. 16 btdc/60 abdc EX. 60 bbdc/16 atdc This is all the information the FSMs have. They don't tell things such as dwell and lift.

Are you talking front or back wheels bearings? Do you plan on doing the work yourself? Loyales are great cars. However you will need to spend some money on maintainance. In addition to fixing the bearings, which won't be toomuch, I would put new timing belts on it right away unless you know for sure when they were done last.

Is it an engine noise? Audible whenever the engine is running? Or does it only happen while actually driving? I can't tell if you're talking about an engine trouble or something else in the car.

Hey, I wanted to know if anyone has specs for the EA82T Fuel injector flow rate. And what are the rates of other types of injectors(280ZX,ZX Turbo) comonly swapped?

91 is fairly new for these cars as they date back all the way to 85.(earlier in japan even) SPFI and Manual trans is about the most dependable setup you can get too. D/R is nice, but I really like the shifter mounted button. I feel like I'm able to more quickly respond when I need the 4wd and a downshift at the same time. Being in the midwest, it surely will have some rust. But even without much rust it is only gonna be worth $500-800 bucks. Being in the midwest, it surely will have some rust. If it has more than 150,000 miles maybe only $300-500. Loyales are ussually pretty stripped down models too, as compared to the Luxo GL-10s of the 80's. They're good enough cars to be worth more, but yet, the market value for them is pretty low.

I just don't think that would work at all. + 1 for bad idea

The trim that goes along the top, over the rain gutter, can be "rolled" off pretty easy, just don't bend it and it will clip right back on. As far as the lower trim that runs along the side of the car, it is difficult. If you remove the inner fender well, you can get to the back side of the clips and pinch them. They will then pop out. This works for the fender trim. Unfortunatley to do this for the whole car you'd have to remove all the door panels and interior panels along the side of cargo area. If you just pry the trim from the outside the clips will break, they have to be pinched from the back.

So last night I was driving sown to Illinois to help MileMaker strip down our parts car. I was in my 89' GL Turbo wagon. On a 55 mph back highway, a white Ford Taurus goes to pull out and pass me, and I think, naaaa....I don't think so. So I pounch it and fly up to about 80 and blast on down around a sweeping curve. I can see the car behind me a 1/2 mile or so still. Eventually we get to a stop sign. Car pulls up behind me, that's when I notice the second antenna, and the Saftey cage divider thing between his seats. $@!^#%@! Its an unmarked State Trooper! I've been racing away from a State Trooper! I stayed out of the throttle after that, and he never pulled me over. Eventually he passed me and moved on. I saw him a few minutes later in the next town. There where 3 cops that had a Cavalier stopped, drvier out, searching his car with a dog:eek: I am REALLY glad I didn't get stopped. I'd have had to hide the Air Conditioning:grin:

For XT turbo 85,86,87= 25 degrees, Vac advance disconnected and plugged. Big round Knock unit plug disconnected. Pass side of engine by MAF/air filter box. 88-91=20 degrees, green Test connector connected For GL Turbo 85,86=25 degrees Vac advance disconnected and plugged. Big round Knock unit plug disconnected. Pass side of engine by MAF/air filter box. 88-91=20 degrees, green test connector connected

It's a little of topic, but I have had my own trouble finding Disty rotors. My trouble was finding an 85,86 turbo rotor. I eventualy had to resort to cutting of some of the bottom portion of a later model turbo rotor. If it comes to it, and you just need to get something in there, try comparing rotor width and height. If you find one with the same width at least, you could try to cut it, drill it, or whatever to make it fit. Not ideal but it works. In my case it worked very well, and i will probably be cutting more in the future since the old ones are all but impossible to find.

I drive 2-3 time a year from Kenosha, WI(read Chicago) to Corvallis, OR. I also make my way out to Pennsylvania at least once a year. Always in a Soob. Often in the winter. I preffer to go the North Dakota route. It's colder, but you skip the terrible wind and snowdrifts of western SD and Wyoming. That and my great, great, great, great uncle is general Custer. And we all know his experience in Wyoming.

Ball joints. Possibly made worse by bad struts. That is all I am going to say

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: I do that every 6 months! My soobs cross the country regularly. And I'm not an old man. Just older than you

And I'm the guy who bought my first one before you had a liscence. Maybe you have owned more, that just means you've had less experience with each one.

BAll joints do make EXCACTLY that noise. I am telling you about first hand experience. They do not always cause odd steering. And if both wheels hit a bump toghether like a speedbump, the swaybar doesn't do anything but move with the control arm. Only when there is uneven motion or "sway" that the bar transfers any force. It's not a theory. It is what happens. This is my direct experience with this excact same condition and symtoms, in not one, but many Subarus, both EA82s and Legacies. I am really getting tired of you trying to dispute every single thing I post. I will say again, you are not the only one with experience or knowledge of these machines.

I've seen it many times. as you go "up" the speedbump, the knuckle is forced upward quickly, and the weight transfers off of the control arm. This stretches the post out of the socket in the ball joint. As the vehicle weigh shifts back down, the socket "pops" back down onto the ball joint shaft. The TEST for a ball joint is to try to put a prybar between the knuckle and control arm, and see if you can get the arm to pry downward from the Knuckle. That is Vertical motion, is it not? Bad ball joints do produce a certain amount of horizontal "slide" aswell, but it's a BALL joint. as in SPHERE. as in any slop at all will be slop in all directions, vertical and horizontal. Ball joints having slop WILL cause a knocking or popping over bumps. It's excacerbated by worn shocks. and with Tie-rods, hitting a bump can make the wheels turn first out then in to whatever degree slop in the tierod will allow. With tierods ussually you will hear it when turning the wheel one way then ther other.

That's a good year and model. Last year where there where good options available, last year of the dual range. And it should be a SPFI, unless it's Turbo. And at least in 89 the Turbo cars eliminated the EGR system. I'd say put new timing belts on it, unless you know for sure they were done recently and correctly. Maybe change the Thermostat, Radiator hoses, heater hoses, and 3 little coolant bypass hoses as well. At that point you are almost sure to have a super dependable tank.

Sorry, no books for Legacies yet. I did just get an 87 FSM and a 90 Loyale FSM minus the engine section. Look like you guys are having fun in the mud up there. Let me know If you want me to come up to help with that Cruise.

The roaring is quite possibly the wheel bearing going dry. If it's not sloppy yet there is hope. If you pull off the Brake rotor and hub, you can regrease that bearing. Use a grease needle on a gun to get grease all the way through the outer bearing, and into the inner one. You can "pack" it in by pressing the hub on, removing, filling with more grease, repeat. Until the grease starts coming out around the back side of the knuckle where the axle goes through. As far as the knocking sound, that sounds like a balljoint. Perhaps a tie rod. but either way they are cheap and easy to replace. It's a good idea to do both sides at the same time.

I really think you are 30 degrees off. My FSMs Show that for an EA82 or an ER27, distributor installation is done with Cam marks at 45 degrees. Pass side 45 up/out, drivers 45 down/out. But the 3 little belt alingment marks are not TDC. They are at an intermidiate point in engine cylce. I don't think you can really rely on them to be the same from a 6 cyl as a 4. Disreegard them until someone can confirm whether or not those 3 marks are in the same spot. Which I think they must be 30 degress shifted, but I don't knoiw for sure. So find TDC on #1 cyl, then set the belts accordingly with the marks at 45 degrees.(pass. up/out, drive down/out) This will set the valve timing and make it so you've got the compression stroke. Then look at the disty and make sure it is at #1. Mark you're flywheel apropriatley.

Indeed, you can do an axle on a wagon/sedan/3door,XT 4cyl. in a similar way. I always undo the 2 bolts holding the top of the strut. Long pinch bolt and short one throught the little "plate". It always seems easier to get loose and seperate from the knuckle than the ball joint is. Just unbolt the brake caliper and tie it up out of the way first. I don't like messing with the sway bar or control arm bolts. They are way too rusty around here.

I don't think you need to remove the flywheel to mark it. Like I said you just need to find top dead center for the compression stroke, and then mark from there. You said you used the marks on the XT6 flywheel. Which marks are you reffering to? are you talking about the 3 little marks for setting the belts. If you used those you are possibly 30 degrees off on your valve timing and consequently ignition timing. Divide 360 by 4= 90 degrees. divide 360 by 6 = 60 degrees. those 3 little marks are not top dead center, they correspond to the point where the pistons are all somewhere in the middle of a stroke, at a point where the none or only a few Vavles are being pressed open by the Cam. This is to allow easier assembly and positioning of Cam for belt timing. The difference between 4 and 6 cylinders means that this intermediate point is 30 degrees shifted. I can't say for sure but this is my theory. You could determine TDC on cyl 1 via "feel" test through spark plug hole. Then set the belts with the marks at a 45 degree angle, pass mark 45 out/up, drivers 45 out/down. Set the disty to be at cyl 1 at the same time and you should have it. Mark that TDC position on the flywheel with a paint pen or white out. Draw out a scale starting from there for timing, using your old flywheel for reference.

Sounds like the flasher itself. There are few universal styles, round relay looking thing, but a bit bigger. $5 fix

The XT6 crankpulley is for a multi-rib belt design, like the 4cyl XT. I think your best bet is to try to establish your own TDC mark. Something along the lines of what Loyale 2.7 suggested. Pull plug one, and with the tip long punch or srewdriver(or best yet a thin wooden dowl) slowly turn the crank until you feel the piston travel all the way "up". You will need to know whether you're on the compression or exhaust stroke so look at your Disty rotor asee which way it points to Cyl1. Since your disty was not removed, you should be able to use it as a guide. Mark you're flywheel at TDC and time from that. Look at you're old EA82 flywheel for a sense of scale.