Gloyale

Have you checked the operation of the anti dieseling solenoid? ANY carbed soob will diesel if that solenoid is stuck open.

My fist Subaru, an 85 wagon took a rearending as well. Bought it for $1000 and I had it for 2 weeks. My GF was driving me home from the dentist(tooth pulled). She stopped for a yellow, and the guy in the electrician's van behind us did not(talking on cell phone:rolleyes: ) he hit us doing about 35, we were almost completely stopped. We were both fine. The rear gate was pushed in about 6 inches, but amazingly still opened and closed just fine after removing the bumper and fiddling with the latch linkage. Didn't even break the glass. I did have a custom trailer hitch installed which reinforced the whole cargo box floor area. Insurance paid me 2100 dollars for it(in 1999) and I got to keep it. That car was affectionately known as Smash Bandisoob. Had it for another year and put 20,000 miles on it with the smashed gate. Then the High range gearset busted so I was stuck in low. Morale of story, I don't feel safe UNLESS i'm in a Subaru.

there is about 7 hours left to get these. But it is a steal. And poorMan is right. You really need to get an 85 or 86 FSM. the MPFI and Turbo control(as well as interior wiring) is all different 87+ http://cgi.ebay.com/4-1986-SUBARU-Service-Manuals-LOT-Sections-1-6_W0QQitemZ120104083055QQihZ002QQcategoryZ2228QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

I think these early legacies are the best! As far as the heater issue, i'm guessing it to be a relay. resistor block problems usually only affect one or two speeds. And ussually will work on high because there is no resistor used oin the high setting. test for 12v at the fan. Should be 12v whenever the igniton is on and the selector is in anything but the off posistion. If not, look for a blown fuse or relay. As far as Torque Bind, My 93 Legacy Automatic AWD has 290,000 miles. I have never had any problems with TB and that is on the original trans. Don't worry too much. Check your tires, and make sure they match.

well, no belts saves money anyway.

I'll start, my fav wagon ever is metallic dark brown on an 85 or 86 wagon. Crest Brown Metallic according to this http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/mick/paintchips.htmlthe

Cougar suggested running 12v to the center lead of the R headlight. I think this is a good idea. If you run 12v to it, and it then functions normally (ie. bright light, high/low beams work via switch) you have isolated the problem. This would mean that the grounding action of the switch is functioning normally, and your problem is in the Red wire coming out of Fuse 8. something to look at. Shortly after the fuse box, attached to the big red wire from 8, there is a splice where a smaller red wire attaches and supplies power to the "high beam" indicator light. Look for a problem at that junction. just lower the fuse box down to access the wires in the back. Does your "high" indicator come on when you use the high beams? If so then that the circuit is good up to the point that that wire diverges. If not then there is your problem. Because it's acting like it would when the fuse blows, I am still inclined to think you've got no voltage to the headlight. Same net effect as a blown fuse but in this case the break in the circuit is somewhere else. How about testing that red wire for continuity from end to end. Hook a multimeter lead to the center terminal of the headlight plug, and the other lead to the "out" side of fuse 8 recepticle. might need some long jumpers, but that is a sure fire way to find out if that wire is conducting. Then perform the same test from the "in" side of fuse 8 to the Black w/Yellow wire in the relay plug.

There is no voltage for the lights going through the switch. The only voltage through the switch is for the markers and dash lights. There is a Red w/blue wire at the switch, same color as the Left headlight power wire, but it is not the same wire. The one wire with 12v in the switch is for the marker lights and dash illumination. the switch controls the ground, no the voltage. there is a black wire going into that switch. with lowbeams on it should have continuity to the Red w/blue wire. With high beams on, it should have continuity to the red w/white wire.

90 Loyale FSM has the same colors. This should do the trick. Black w/ White wire is the 12v source, Green w/ Black goes out to lights.

Code 12(switch on) is sometimes set simply because the key was held in the start position for a moment after the first ignition pulse. Sometimes code 11(switch off) will show in d-check mode before you start the car. I wouldn't worry too much about either code.

Wish we had that option in the states. But honestly, simply cutting power to the C solenoid works great to lock the rear. It does excactly the same thing in terms of clutch operation as putting an old PT auto into 4wd. Full pilot pressure to the clutch packs. There is still a mechanical(spring loaded) drain in the transfer valve. Turbo PT tranny's had almost 300 psi going to the clutches. 4eat max line pressure is around 235 psi. The "switch" method works great.

BTW this is a quote from my original post in this thread: "But obviosly the uncovered belts work fine for the most part. Preferencce thing" that is all I have to say.

Shouldn't matter, it just connects that circiut to ground as a signal. It doesn't carry any positive voltage.

I am not rich either. But c'mon? you're not seriously arguing for neglecting regular maintainence? Timing belts are not expensive either. Especially for those like us who do our own work. If you are insulted by a post in a forum, man you got issues. You seem to be the only one who is still so frickin adament about this. All I have said is that I choose to run them. And that I don't see them as a huge problem to remove and replace, I have stated my reasons, which you repeatedly try to dispute. If you are such a bad rump roast subaru expert with so much experience, why are you so affraid of someone having a different opinion? All I'm doing is stating my opinion. That's all. I am not telling anybody what to do. Just putting in my YAY, and stating why.

I take offense. I have owned a total of 7 EA82's. I have serviced dozens of others. I have 10 years of experience with them. Ask MileMaker013 about that. It happened to him. Left him dead on the road in a snow storm. And I have had snow up in my engine bay far enough it would have happen to me except that I have my covers on.

I have always made a point of running skid plates on all of my EA82s. Snow can still get up in there. And it takes a big rock or log to puncture the pan. it only takes a plastic bag or a rag or a small stick to slip/break the belts. I would, I have, and besides that isn't the point. The title of the thread is not "off-roading with t-belt covers" People are asking about everyday use, and a few have had debris issues "on road"[/Quote] The only general consensus is to each there own. Why do you have such a dire need to tell everybody what they are supposed to think? Several people in this thread agree with me(including FUJI, who put them there), several agree with you. Why don't you stop trying to tell me what to think? You are not the only one in the world who has real experience with these machines.

These cars are just very prone to vavle tick. It's possible that your oil pump seals may need replaced. But if the pump has good pressure, I wouldn't replace it. Not just in hopes of getting rid of a few minutes of tick. Maybe next time you change your timing belts, reseal the pump. Don't forget the Shaft seal of the pump under the pulley. That's the one that really get's the wear. Even with new seals, or a new pump even, you still could have a few minutes of ticking, especially as your oil gets older before oil changes. It is just the nature of the EA82 beast.

I've got a 93 legacy with 290,000 miles. Original engine and trans. Never needed anything but t-belts, oil changes, ball-joints, brakes and axles. It could use some new shocks, but other than that it runs like a brand new car.

That is a photo of the AAV. It is mounted atop the thermostat housing. Follow the upper rad hose to engine to find it. The tube you spoke about, questioning whether to connect it before or after the IC, feeds air to the AAV. the other tube coming out of AAV goes to the throttle body, just below the actual throttle valve itself. When AAV is open(cold) air goes from that tube coming out of bottom of the "cooler" you called it? then goes below the throttle into intake to keep the engine supplied with enough air to prevent it from running overrich and bogging during warmup.

To get back to the idle issue, I think you're AAV may be malfunctioning. The AAV(Auxillary Air Valve) supplies extra air to the intake for fast idle during warm up. It is not a sensor, or a solenoid, and the ECU can't "control" it so to speak. It mearly gets 12v from the fuel pump relay circuit. It has a small heating element that warms up after a certain amount of time. Very much like the old auto chokes. Heating up closes the valve and lowers the amount of air entering intake below throttle. It is mounted on top of the T-stat housing so that if the heating element fails the heat from the engine will close it. But if the bi-metal spring that closes the valve has broken or slipped, the AAV will stay open and let too much air into the throttle chamber at idle. The ECU would try to compensate and match the amount of air coming in, raising the idle. Inspect the AAV. Also try plugging it altoghether. If you then get no Idle issues then that is your culprit.

Actually, for me it is the issue. Since I change my belts regularly, I don't have to worry about them breaking. Except if I was to have no covers, then I would have to worry about debris/mud/snow etc. On the off chance that I do have a belt break, I am prepared. It's never happened to MY car. But on a friends car, I have done a belt change in less than an hour, on the side of the interstate. With covers.(no AC so that helped) Honestly, how much harder is it to also carry a Breaker barw/22mm and a 10mm socket with you're extra belts? I always carry an idler and spare tensioners as well. But if you want to screw you're covers.....be my guest

It's not the reassembly, but the DISASSEMBLY that is dangerous without compressors. Bad idea to unbolt them without some form of protection against the "boooiiiiinngg" factor. Ever seen the damage this can cause? I have. Big dent in the door of truck and a busted tool box from a Toyota pickup spring slipping out of a makeshift compressor.

Five minutes of tick til warm? That's nothing to worry about, and probaly no amount of seafoam, atf, MMO or anything else is going to make it go away. (dimes under HLA's perhaps?)

Covers that are in poor condition, been installed improperly, or otherwise screwed up are not a good comparison. The covers, just like any other part of a car should be inspected for condition and proper fit at regular intervals. I'll bet something else had to have happened(like neglect) in that engine bay before the cover just "broke off" and tore up the trans lines. Properly installed, good condition covers WILL protect you from foreign objects breaking or slipping you're belts.

These are the specs for a non-turbo S/R fivespeed 1st=3.545 2nd=1.947 3rd=1.366 4th=.972 5th=.780 reverse=3.416 Final drive=3.900