Gloyale

Yup, code 34. EGR solenoid. It's job is to keep the EGR valve from operating until the engine warms up. Then the ECU grounds the solenoid and it opens, alowing vaccum to go to the EGR valve. it's either disconnected, or busted. It can be replaced with almost any vac solenoid from Subaru, toyota, mazda, suzuki, etc. You'll need to swap plugs. Or you can wire in a resitor in it's place. Anyone remember the specs for that resistior? In reality, it's not going to affect much not working. If you really want your EGR to function, you can just remove the solenoid and plug the 2 vac lines into each other. Note that you will still have a code, and your EGR will be opening even during cold(initial startup) operation, so you could get hesitation. Why are you checking codes in the first place? are you getting an ECS light? driveability problems? Only thing I could see the EGR solenoid affecting is start up drivability, if it's stuck open.

If the thermostat doesn't help consider this How about the condition of timing belt and components? If the belt is gazed it will slip over the smooth Water Pump pulley. Also if any of the tensioners are sticking it will cause uneven tension and slack in the belt causeing the belt to slip on the pump pulley as well. I have seen this a few times and I suspect it to be the cause of alot of folks overheating woes. People forget that the Water pump is driven off the T-belt. EDIT: DUH!! I didn't read the whole original post. could still be related? perhaps the new belt has to "seat" on the new pulley? Did they replace the tensioner, and if so are you confident they did it correctly?

I have a feeling your timeng belt is getting glazed, and not driving your water pump fully. Funny, I NEVER hear anyone suggest this possibility. Water pump is driven off timing belt. If the belt slips on it, you will get poor circulation. Engine gets hot, but heater gets no flow so the heat is quickly sucked out of it. This is one of the major differences between the EJ and old EA series. Another though related to circulation. Do you know the condition of the water pump? Have you ever run it "lean" on coolant. Meaning mostly water? If so the blades may have rusted off of the impeller in pump, causing the same type of no circulation problem. BTW, headgaskets would not cause "no heat" unless you where actually losing coolant enough coolant to empty the heater core. You say in your first post that you are not, and are getting no bubbling or overflow. Hot engine+no heat+full coolant= bad circulation

Why? there is no need for a relay. Auto manufactures know this, thats why 99% of cars do not use one. The stater solenoid IS a relay of sorts. It adds one more component in the chain, one more thing to go wrong. The solenoid only draws about 6-7 amps. I measured it. As long as you use a minimum 14g and better yet 12g wire there is no issue. Just as long as it is fused so if for some reason it shorts the fuse will blow.

No I've looked into it and the deck of the turbo piston, although dished, is thicker underneath. I think milling out the heads is the option to look into.

You may not be seeing it, but there are definately two hoses from Throttle body to intake. More correctly one to it, and one back. I would not plug it, it may build pressure in a funky way and blow something. You may get Throttle Icing in colder weather as well. Are we talking SPFI? MPFI? TURBO?

It's the Friggin Fuse!!!!!!

Your ignition switch is failing. it's making some connection(hence the click) but won't carry the amp load that the starter solenoid requires. Very common for 80's soobs. There are 3 ways to fix it. 1. Replace the switch. Expensive for a new one, used one is likely to fail sooner or later. Not what I would choose to do. 2. Wire up a relay. mount a relay and wire it up so the "start" position signals the relay, then the relay sends power to the starter solenoid. Works. But it still relies on the ignition switch carrying enough amps to activate relay. It's also more wiring and work than is nesscesary. 3. Run a fused 12 gauge wire directly from Battery or the large terminal on Starter that Batt. cable goes to. Run it inside to a pushbutton switch mounted wherever you like. Run another wire out of the switch back to the solenoid terminal on starter. If you use a piggy back spade you can reattach the original Sloenoid wire as well. Turn the key on, and if it doesn't start, just hit the button to activate the starter. Key must still be in the "on" position. Method 3 is what I have done for 3 of my old soobs, and for my buddies toyota T100 as well. Here is an old thread where both options are discussed at length. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=71590&highlight=Click%2C+no+start And if you decide to do the relay option, it has a better description. I personally like the push button. And running the wire from the big term of starter and then back uses the shortest amount of wire. Just be sure to put a fuse at the begining of the wire.

It is the Fuse. When one fuse blows, it's set up so that lamp get's a small amount of current from the other sides circuit. Check the fuse box. Most Jap cars from the 80's are setup this way.

Another GL/Loyale from Pacific Northwest where they don't rust out. Really they don't. Unless they have been kept very near the coast. It's the fault of the salted roads that they rust. And also why those bolts snaped. I never broke a bolt on any of my NW soobs. The one here in Wisco, I expect it, always. I have aquired lots of ez outs and taps since moving here. Anybody ever wonder why the most heavily salted states are ones where American manufacturers(and some Japenese) have factories? Planned obselecence?

FSM specs for oil pump discharge pressure are as follows. Warm idle(550 rpms)= 14psi Warm at 5000rpms= 43 psi That's straight from the horses mouth. Also, a 140 ohm resistor wired in place of sending unit(one end to wire, one to ground) should make the gauge display 57 PSI. If it is off, then your gauge is bad, or at least somewhat erroneus.

I am not sure that write up is entirely accurate as far as the location of your test connectors and ECU. On your sedan, the ECU is bolted to underside of steering column. If your car is SPFI, Your test connectors are either under the hood, near wiper motor and brake fluid resevior. IF it is Turbo, MPFI, then the connectors are under dash, near the ecu. "TEST" connector is green. "READ" connector is black or white. Also, I don't believes you can read the codes off of your "ECS" light. They must be read from the led inside of ECU. It's visible through small hole on front of ECU. Other than tode details, the write up is correct as far as codes and there meanings. One other note is that if no codes are found, the ECU will flash a "model" code. 1-8 flashes depending on Engine type, Trans type, and 49 state or Cali model. Let us know what you find. I have an 89 FSM here and can look up troubleshgooting proceedures for ya when you get the codes. Is your ECS light on?

I thopught I'd share pics of what i'm dubbing "ohh, the other place those crack" crack. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=14942&cat=500&ppuser=21475 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=14943&cat=500&ppuser=21475 First one is what they look like dirty. Heard to see anything, but there is coagulated greren goo from coolant seaping through crack. Second pic is cleaner, and you can see the crack clearly circled in red. The problem is that the coolant passage follows the contours of the V where the exhaust ports merge. The crack crosses through that passge. You don't ever get any "burned" coolant in the cylinder, or any coolant in oil. What you get is disappearing coolant and white smoke till warmed up. If they are really bad it can smoke quite a bit.

Let me get it and I'll shoot you a PM. We gotta pick up the car still.

OMFG :lol: :lol: :lol: But seriously who wants it?

HOORAY! 96,000 mile Carb motor. Should have a good bottom end. Anybody need a Hitachi?

Is this accompanied by any smoke? I know on long right turns oil will make it's way past the baffles in the oil pan and soak the back of the pistons. The baffle is connected solid to the right side of pan, but has notches and a big hole on the left side for the oil pickup tube. Car goes right, oil goes left. Kinda makes the car bog down and produces alot of smoke out the tailpipe. I know all the EA82s do this if you generate enough G force on a long right sweeper. I don't know why the Fuel level would matter. Maybe you have another issue involving fuel. But hesitation and smoke on long rights is something that has been documented here before. It's from the oil

First off that's a bad idea. For anything but a very temporary diagnosis. Recently, I've had the chance to examine 4 different sets of Turbo heads. All but one of the 8 heads, had small cracks in the siamesed portion of the exhaust port.(not talking about the little cracks between valves in the combustion chamber)It is a small crack that runs perpendicular(across) the wall that divides the 2 exhaust ports. This lets coolant into the exhaust, after the cylinder, so no coolant is being "burned". When cold, this water is forced throught the turbo(ouch) and out exhaust, in a mix with hot gasses hence the smoke. Once the engine is warm the coolant evaporates very quickly and you see no smoke I think this is you're problem. If you had blown HG's you'd smoke all the time. I don't think you're getting water in the Cylinders. You can examine it by removing the Crossover exhaust pipe, and looking into the exhaust ports. It will be on the outer edge of the exhaust port, right in the transition into the "siamese" wall Good news is it is easily ground out and welded. Cost me $40 per head to get it welded(If you can find a good Aluminum wleder who will do it)

Why would you doubt? Only people you've heard of have Subaru experience? as a matter of fact they do have one not only for the EA82, but for EA81, EJ18, EJ22, EJ25, and EG33. As well as ones for Porsce. I looked at them today. And if they didn't, honestly, how hard is it for any machinist to make one. Its a block of metal with holes. This is a serious high pro shop. Granted the majority of there work is Chevys, and Hemis, and other race motors. But they get lots of exotic business too. I got to scope a sweet Opel motor in pieces while I was there today. The cost for sleeving would be about $350-400 bucks. I think I can find a block and even ship it aways for that money. So that is my current plan. But I may well end up having to sleeve it if I can't source a good block close to me.

I had the same shifter problem. I just pulled it all out and welded it back toghether. I drilled and tapped the plate that the rubber bushing was attached to. Used a big M10 nut as a spacer and ran a bolt through the body, through spacer into that plate. The plate I'm talkin about is at the back end of shifter assembly, that holds the rear of the mechanism to the body.

The shop is fully capable of boring the cylinders. That I am sure of. I was going to have that done even if the liners where not shifted. Is that all you're talkin bout? Boring them would be no problem, I just was wondering if SLEEVING them would be a problem. My machinist thinks there is enough material around the cylinder that he could insert a new sleeve(which he'd have to notch for wristpin holes), but the cost would be at least $120 per cylinder(needs 3). Then the boring cost on top, though I guess I'll be paying that either way. I figure for $360 bucks I can find a fresh(or not so fresh) block to work with.

You mean a bigger one. Smaller pulley would yield more RPMs at pump in relation to engine RPM. It would have to be quite abit larger I think.

Just because it hasn't caused a problem yet, doesn't mean it won't. You won't get appropriate fade control and you are torturing the diodes in the output channels. It doesn't affect the speakers as much as the deck. It's not good for them either.

If you are adding rear speakers using the existing stock stereo, you can just add the speakers. If you are using an aftermarket stereo, MUST run seperate ground wires to each speaker. I'm not talking about the main ground for the stereo. I am talking about the negative wires to speakers. Stock wiring has both left on one wire, both right on the other. You Must seperate the wiring or run a seperate set of wires to Front or Back. If you don't you will most likely fry your stereo. Again there is an excellent write up: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50840

Subaru used a common grounding speaker setup for it stock radios. Front and rear speakers Are wired to use a common ground. If there are wires there, you should know that to use them you must seperate the grounds. There are a few ways to do this. Some people wire seperate, new wires for the front speakers. You can tap them into the stock wires under the kick panels up front. Pink 2 pole connector, one at each door is for speakers. However since you are trying to add rear speakers, you probably want to leave the fronts alone. If can reach up in the dash, and cut the tape away from the harness for stereo, you can seperate the grounds, and splice a new one for the rears at the head unit. There is a write-up in the USRM.