Gloyale

Green w/White stripe wire is 12v from Fuse 10 Blue wire is 2wd when connected to 12v Green w/Yellow stripe wire is 4wd when connected to 12v its a Single pole/Double throw no off switch. Edit:Uhh, aparently wire colors are different in '93. Check for 12v at one of them with a test light. The other ones are 2wd and 4wd respectively. One of them should light the 4WD light when connectted to 12v, the other is 2wd.

Why aren't they condusive to it? I have had other blocks sleeved before. What would make it not work here? my machinist wants to know. He thinks it's possible. Edit: possible but expensive. I'll be getting another block.

You've got a PM McBrat

Well I have the engine that's in the car right now. It runs great, but it has been overheated in it's past. It has a terrible rod knock, sure it will give out eventually. I wanted to build this motor while that one was in the car. Then I could do the swap in a day. Damn, I scavenged heads from a complete w/turbo engine I picked up for $100. I had to completely reseal and clean up valves and seats on heads. Junked the block, it was severely rusted in 2 cylinders. But I could have bored it out. I had to throw the car together to get it home from Oregon to Wisconsin. Ebay car. I knew going in I had major surgery but it only took a week to get it up and running. 15,000 miles since. These things are durable.

I was already planning on having this block bored. I could get another motor but I would be rebuilding it anyhow. So I'm spendin money at the machinist either way. And finding a block in Wisconsin is not as easy as it is out west. I could get one for sure but I don't know If I need to. I'll talk to the shop about new sleeves.

Sweet dude. I am staoked to hear you're success. So what fuel pump did you end up running? MPFI EA pump? Ford? It also occured to me that however you mounted the fuel pump, it should be inulated by rubber mounts so it has no external grounding other than the provided Ground. Safety thing.

Okay, this is what you should see: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=14875&ppuser=21475 This is what I see through the other 3 holes. Yikes! [/url] http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=14876&cat=500&ppuser=21475

So I went to remove the wrist pins from my EA82T short block before seperating it. I unscerw the plugs in the block for access and look in the holes expecting to see springclips and the wrist pins. In one hole I do. But in the others, there is a plate of metal, cast looking metal. One of them it is only partially blocking the wristpin, and has an arcing edge to it that looks like it matches the shape of the access hole at lower end of cylinder. I am scared that the cylinder liners have spun in there bores, and are now blocking the access holes. Has anyone ever seen this? I didn't think it was possible but there it is.

It Souuld be optical As long as it's not the old MPFI setup with the seperate knock control unit, Single connector TPS, and the Flapper MAF. I know it was changed in 87 for the GLs but the early 87 XTs still used the old stuff. I have no idea for an RX

whoa!! hold on, anyone realize he'll need to swap rearend as well and driveshaft? Auto=3.7 MT=3.9 with the exception of the 3.7 Turbo five speed(25 spline axles). So whatever you get, make sure you get a matching diff if you need it. Heck, even a single range trans would be fine. However if you like the auto, replacement ones are cheap. It is a simple trans easy to rebuild as well. You can''t beat the instant 4wd engagement of the hydro clutch either.

You can but it is with a seperate lever, that is sometimes tricky to get to engage properly, espescially on older ones. You've got to take your hand away from the gearshifter and physically move the lever. no button

One thing to consider, is that you will be replacing an old tranny with an older one. Now these trannys are known to be pretty tough, but not indestructible. They're synchros were out, and yield crunchy shifts. Espescially 3rd it seems. I once had one get stuck in 4lo. unless you will be towing or off-roading, the dual range is not really that usefull in the real world. And the pushbutton 4wd is so fast/easy to use as opposed to having to take your hand off the shifter to use 4wd. I think it is safer. In an Emergency you can engage 4wd and shift at the same time, instead of having to choose one or the other in the midst of an emergency manuver Don't let this be discouragement If you really want the D/R. Just food for thought.

I lived in Corvallis OR for 12 years. 7 of the 8 Subarus I've bought, I bought in OR. Besides, Cars are worth WAAAYYY less here. Because old cars tend to fall apart here, you could not give away a car with more than 200,000 miles. Seriously, you can't, except to charity or J-yards. People are scared of 100,000 miles out here. They don't even realize their cars would last longer if not for the salt. And that out west things are further apart so cars accumulate more miles.

Kelley blue book would disagree. But that seems to be the truth for the most part. It all depends on how they run and what driving is worth to ya. It would have to be pretty F%@&in sweet for $1888!!! LOL

Have you verified the spark plugs are all good? Checked compression? Belt timing may be correct, but the disty could be off? 180 or? where does the rotor line up when you put the engine at TDC? should be pointing at #1 on cap, compression stroke obviously. Triple sure the rotor screw is in place on shaft in Distributor? Fuel pressure high enough? inspect for clogged injector?

I think you should have a FWD light on dash. I am not sure as I don't know imprezas. But if you do have a light, and it's not coming on, I suspect TCU (trans Computer) issues. This shows that your TCU is not processing the info it's getting correctly. That FWD light should light when you put the fuse in, whether the Duty solenoid c works or not. There is a way to make the TCU output it's codes. I believe this is how: You may have to insert the FWD fuse for this to work on some models. key off. using the overide button under shifter, move the slector to D(drive). depress MANUAL button. Turn key on. Engine off, move shifter to 3, then depress MANUAL button again. Move shifter to 2, depress MANUAL button again Move shifter to 1, depress throttle past half way you should see either the power Light, or the AT Temp light start blinking. One long 2.5 seconds. Then a series of very fast ones(.2 secs). Each short flash represents one of the sensors in the system. If while flashing the fast ones, you get a long flash(1 sec) then that is a trouble code for that item. So let's say the 9th flash is a one second flash, and all the others are short, you've got a code 9. If the 3rd flash is long(1 sec.) then you've got a code 3. Hopefully there is someone else reading this who knows the excact trouble codes for you're year and model. If anyone sees anything wrong with my description please chime in. Imprezas are the one model I have almost no direct experience with. So I may be off slightly on the Code extraction proceedure. But that is the jist of it, and I would recomend reading the codes yourself before taking it to the dealer. That way you have some idea of what is wrong, and are less likely to be rooked.

Should we always assume everything in the transfer section needs replaced? The fact that it is binding (clutch engaging) means his clutches are not totally shot. Could be just the solenoid. Or a break in the solenoid wire. I swear I could post nothing but the words "torque bind" someone would tell me I needed a new clutch and Solenoid. Nipper, you might be unessecarily scaring this guy. You could argue that if you are replaceing the solenoid, you should do the clutches. But just because you've got a code(we still don't know that the code is for the Solenoid C) does not mean you need to spend $800 dollars. further diagnosis is needed. Telling people stuff like that will make alot of people not want to deal with it and trade in there Subaru on a Chevy or some other car. Are you trying to put people off of Subarus unnescesarily?

If it's an automatic, put it on a flatbed. Period. The exception would be to remove/disconnect center driveline and tow with front on dolly. Never tow with the front on the ground, parts inside trans will be turning with no lubrcation or cooling action.

I saw an 85 in the junkyard. GL-10, sunroof, digidash, Trip computer, and the works. I'm thinkin "sweet, Turbo parts!" open the hood and what is there but a hitachi carb. there should be a smiley for WAA, WAAA, WAAAAAA..... As far as I know the MPFI non turbo(na) motor was only in XT's in the states. It may have been an option on GL-10's but I can't find any proof of this. It does mention the NA MPFI in the 86 FSM. But in that year XT's are covered toghether with GL/DLs. in fact if you look at the back of an 86 XT, it will say GL or GL-10 on one side, and XT on the other. Later XTs are just XT or XT6 Kinda like the early Nissan Altima. In order to not have to pay taxes on a seperate or new model, they just called it a new version of an old model, then totally dropped the old name after a few years.

These two things do not go hand in hand. "cheap" is often very difficult, substituting alot of work for no money. Easy just requires money to spend on parts, a mechanic, whatever. (really easy would be buy a new car) What comes to mind in this case is just get a J-yard one. Your's is the first I've ever heard of failing. And unless it's leaking out of the fittings I can't even figure how fluid would get out of it. It's really a sealed unit. Is it leaking around the cable shaft?

If you connect the test connector, but do not have the engine running, you will get code 11. Because the crank is not turning you get no signal. try to get it started with the green connectors connected and if you still get 11, or if you get code 11 in READ mode, (not u-check or D-check) then perhaps. I am not familiar with how to put a legacy into Read mode but that is what you should do. on Loyales and GL's it is done with the black connectors.

Passenger side timing belt.

When it was really cold here in Wisconsin recently, my 1993 legacy would not start, and smelled like gas. Turned out the rubber fuel hose from filter to fuel rail was getting so cold, it started leaking out a little fuel right where it clamps to the engine. This was enough to lower fuel pressure and bam, no start. new hoses and it's fine.

MDJC, what makes you so sure of the Master being bad? Doesn't make sense that it would go bad all of a sudden after new pads. BTW, Turbo models have discs in the Rear, so Daeron did not need to be poked at for a valid question. Have you checked you're rear brakes? They have a limited adjustment built in. When they are really worn they have to travel very far to hit the drum. I have seen soft pedals in GLs and loyales from this many, many times. Actually I know someone who replaced his master cylinder when actually rear shoes where his problem. Check you're rear brakes beataru. You will have to undo the castle nut on the rear to remove the drum. is you're car 2wd or 4wd.? 2wd uses a simple tapered bearing. When retightening it don't go to tight. 40-50 ft/lbs. Make sure it still spins freely. If you have a 4wd, it will need to be much tighter, 150 ft/lbs. There are 2 different styles of 4wd rear wheel bearings. Some are tappered sets, and some are a big single roller. The roller style you can't really overtighten, since the load never compresses the roller. Down side is you can't tighten it if it gets loose. The tappered style of 4wd bearing can be overloaded. It does need to be tight, very tight. But don't go so tight it doesn't spin freely. just as tight as you can get and still have it rotate smoothly.