Gloyale

That chart applies for sure to All EA82 models. If EA81s use the same sender, it would apply to them too. It would apply to any vehichle calibrated to use the same sender. But it could go in the USRM for ea82s for sure. Those values are straight from an 88 FSM. 85, 86, and 89 FSM also lists the same specs.

Glad to hear it didn't get junked. Did you ever think of getting the intake mating surface milled flat? Just an after though. Wonder if I should do that?

OK. so my Photoshop skills are not as good as yours obviously, but here is my idea Red line shows where I would like a cut. Green is an idea of where I'd like to remove material from.

I have Turbo pistons. The block I'm building up is from a turbo. However I cannot find a good source of NEW turbo pistons, oversized, for a reasonable amount. Where did you get yours? how Much? I can however order NA pistons easy and cheap. And I like the idea of bumping the compression up a little. 8.5 seems a good number for a Turbo. It is what WRXs and other EJ turbos use. I just like the idea of experimenting. I'll probably end up just building up the block I've got with the old pistons. They are in good shape. The cylinders aren't tappered. So I'll just rering and put new bearings in. I've got to get a solid motor into my car. I do plan to install my Spyder intake, Intercooler, with the new motor. Once I do that though, I'll have another core to start fresh on. I'll be experimenting on that one. So I guess I'm really reseaching 2 seperate builds. You're very first cut shows that the deck of the cylinder head is very thick. At least on the side opposite the spark plug. I wonder if a little material removedwould be enough. Wanna give me another cut on the first section you cut off. Right through the intake valve this time, parallel to the first cut. Then I can see what that shoulder has for meat end to end.

I think I'm going to try to remove some material in the combustion chamber of heads:clap: :-\

Well it seems we've pinned it down to the idle switch portion of the TPS. You need to adjust it so that it closes those contact (A and when the throttle is in the closed position. Loosen both screws, and rotate the whole body of the TPS slightly clockwise, or upwards. this will make the contacts of the TPS close(if they are working, which it seems they are) There is a description of this in the FSM. That part wil be the same for any year SPFI motor. that is why the mount holes on the TPS are slotted, so it can be adjusted to set a baseline. The consistant readings between the 2 TPS is encouraging. You could have a meter reading off slightly like DAERON suggests. BTW you're 86 is the first year of SPFI, so you're original TPS is the oldest possible TPS you could have.

You nailed it in terms of describing how to measure terms A and B. except you got it backwards. Switch is closed(grounded) when throttle is closed. When you open the throttle it opens the switch. I mixed up and posted wrong earlier in this thread. I corrected it later in red. Throttle closed= zero ohms, full contact throttle open= infinite, no contact.

test between A and B of TPS. shuold be continuity closed, none open. with it unplugged. this is the idle switch portion. If you can't get continuity between A and B ever, throw that TPS away. one thing however is that those contacts close at hte very end of the travel of throttle. you may have to loosen the TPS screws, and turn it a little so that the contacts can fully close. That's what the whole feeler gauge thing is about in the FSM. Should be conmtinuity at closed, but with just a crack open, should be none. If it's out of adjustment you're idle switch won't ever make contact so try that. Hook up test leads to A and B and move the TPS around a bit. If you don't ever get continuity then that one is shot. Did you get same readings on both TPS? Those other numbers don't seem good to me. seems they are all higher than normal resistance. 20k Ohms setting is perfect. You're on the right track. test the other one. Doesn't need to be installed to test. Just do the continuity tests between terminals. use a screwdriver to act as the throttle shaft turning.

Just be really, really glad that no one was standing between them.

Totally unrelated Skip, but I'm excited. I found a stash of actual Old Latrobe RR recently. I bought 6 6packs. The guy who runs the liquor store tried to get me to buy his 12 packs, but they are from St.Louis. I am saving at least one of the sixers for my grandkids. Notice how the new St. Louis bottles have a disclaimer about "in the tradition" and then the whole Old Latrobe stuff on back is in Quotes? Been waiting to tell ya all night

Try replacing the O2 sensor. it is cheap, less than 20 bucks. Poor readings from it can make you run way rich, and set the ECS light. Although there is a code for the O2 sensor(23), it may not actually set. The sensor could be putting out a signal that is within the range what the ECS expects to see, but not the correct reading of what is really happening. ie: ECS see's a lean signal but actually it's running rich. ECS doesn't know the O2 sensor is feeding wrong data.This is a guess. I think you are reading the codes right. Are you reading off the "O2 monitor" LED? small light visible through hole on the ECU itself, under steering column? Here the proceedure. Engine should be warm. connect the green test connector with engine off. start it, rev it over 2000 rpms for at least a minute. ECS light should be off at first, then steadily flash if everything is fine. If not it will stay off or on constant. and a trouble code will be output on the "o2 monitor" light. Trouble codes will also be output without connecting that test jumper when the ECS light is on. So disconnect it, go for a drive till it ECS light comes on, leave it running and look at the O2 monitor LED and see if you've got a code. With no code and the engine running LEDgoes on and off as the O2 reads lean and rich. This blinking is very random and without pattern. unlike the trouble codes which are like morse code.

Well to start, I don't see on that link where it says code 14 is a solenoid issue. But the reason I'm replying is that I have a Factory service bulletin here, the update for 84 actually. It has a big note about How the Trouble codes are new for 84 only. I am assuming we're talking about a feedback carb model, not a Turbo(EGI fuel injection)? If that is the case 14 is a SPECIFICATION code. It shows when the key is on, engine off. meaning the computer is set up to be in a Analog dash, automatic, Hitachi carbed model. If this is the only code you get it means the rest of the system is normal. Now if it still reads that code while the engne is running, that means the ECU is not seeing an ignition pulse(tach wire on - of coil). But then the car may not run at all. Are you having drivability issues? what is the car doing? Seems you're ECS is running normally. And actually for that Feedback carb, you should be able to make it run well without the whole ECS system.

A 47ohm resistor connected instead of the sender(one end clipped to ground, other to temp wire) Will tell you where you're gauge is reading 175 degrees F. I tried this on mine, and the gauge only rose to below 1/4. I was thinking this whole time my car was running cool, but actually he gauge is just reading out very low. Other value resistors to try: 133-175 ohms = 122 degrees F 47-56 ohms = 175 degrees F 26-29 ohms = 212 degrees F 15-17 ohms = 248 degrees F Testing you're gauge with these resistors will give you an idea of where you're real "red zone" is at. 3/4 of the way to red on the gauge is where mine reads with the 15 ohm resitor. 248 is too hot. now I know not to wait until it gets to the red.

Wisconsin is not a reasonable distance is it:lol: seiously though, Pennsylvania?

Wow. Damn. Well, I will have to figure something else out. My machinist suggested a thicker custom headgasket to lower the compression ratio. That will space the heads outward from eachother, making manifold fit uhhh.... awkward? Hmm. I'm going to cut up one of my turbo pistons just to be sure you're turbo pistron are the samre as factory ones. I am also going to try to get some EA82 NA pistons to cut up. Maybe they tried to lighten the pistons on the 2.7 as compared to the 1.8? I can hope right? Maybe EA81 pistons? Guess I'll have to mill out the head.

just as I though. The colant passage follows the contours of the exhaust ports. In the first pic, look at the top of the peak made by the exhaust ports coming toghether. move down about a half inch, and and that is where the crack in my head is. in the same plane as the mating surface of head, going right through that siamese wall. I have a feeling it was through or very close to through the V in coolant passge. I'm glad I'm having it welded up. Thanks.

ignition switch doesn't need to be on. between B and C should be less than 1 ie .999 or less As far as the FSM. The pin location for the idle switch wire is changed 87 and after. So if you're using 87+ FSM it will show different pin. You're 86, Idle switch wire(G) wil be at either pin 9 or 20. I really wish they numbered them in 86. it shows color and location, but not specifically which pin for each. so it could be either of those 2 green wires. Really man. I'm pullin for ya. I really think the intermittent nature of the issue points to harness or connection issue.

You've got a better shot of actually getting it fixed with help from USMB than taking a 20 year old car to any shop in So. Cal. BTW when I said there should be continuity to ground at B terminal of harness. When the harness is plugged in, and the idle switch is activated, then continuity exists wih Terminal A, this is the green wire. Without the tps plugged in there is no connection between ground and the green wire.

Do you still have the NA pistons. Can you compare them to the turbo ones and see if there is the same thickness to the deck portion? I realise the Turbos are tubbed. But say if that tub was not there, are they otherwise identical. looking into them from the back side does the wrist pin yoke look the same? beefier? My machinist is willing to custom "tub" some 8.5:1 pistons from new .020 oversize NA ones. But not having any in hand to show him he wanted to know if there is enough meat. or if the NA pistons are substanstially lighty/wimpier than the turbos.

Right where you've got it looks good, perhaps Slightly towards the "top" intake side. Slighlty more level as it relates to the picture. I really need to see how the wall that forms as the V tapers out is shaped. This is all assuming that you're 2.7 is same or similar to my EA82 heads. But you rock man either way.

I have a feeling you are still doing it wrong. no offense. I summed it up below but I will address you're findings individually first. Terminal B is the ground wire terminal. Continuity to ground with the TPS mounted is incidental. Well you should just get 1 or infinite. Until the throttle is opened slightly, then full contact Zero ohms Green wire at check connector should have Zero resistance with Terminal A not B wire of haness. But harness measurments should be done with the ECU and TPS connectors unplugged, otherwise you could be measureing resistance of the ciruits inside ECU. you should not be getting Negative Resistance values. 1 means infinite resitance, or a total open circuit, no conductivity. -1 means the meter is tring to read a resistance that is off the scale. You should set your Ohm meter to a higher scale like 10 or 20k ohms. The values you are trying to read are between 1k ohm and 10k ohms. Are you testing it with the connector unplugged? Here's what it shuold be. Testing TPS itself, not plugged in. Restistance between A(idle) and (ground) should be Infinite at throttle open, 0 or near zero (.1 ohm or less) at throttle closed. Resistance between B(ground) and D(+V) changes with throttle opening between 3.5 to 6.5K Ohms Resistance between B and C(signal V) changes with throttle opening. Less than 1K Ohm at closed, Greater than 2.4K ohms with valve fully opened(80% of resistance between B and D) Restistance should increase and decrease continuosly and smoothly between B and C. To check the harness, you'll need long test leads. Unplug TPS and ECU connectors. Connect one lead to the tps plug terminal you want to test. Connect the other lead to the corresponding terminal on the ECU plug. There should be Zero or very near resistance. Full continuity. Same method for testing continuity between check connectors and corresponding ECU and TPS pins of harness. Did you figure out the idle switch wire issue? Is it a Lt.Blue w/Green(LG) at TPS, then Green after the big round plug? You said you found a green one at the Check connector? center pin under lock tab? That would mean it is green at ECU as well. edits in red

The green line looks right. I like the position of the cut right below where the exhaust chambers split. If you cut there, and lifted the top part off, you'd look down into the coolant passage between the exhaust ports and the surface of the cam side of head. Hope you're following. I want to know if it's a flat wall in there, or if that passage follows the V. If it is a flat wall my crack is probably only between the two exhaust passages. No problem. But if the coolant side of the exhaust passages follows the same contour, the crack will be crossing that V

I want a cut along the left yellow line in photo. I just got my headsd back from the machine shop(cleaning, Vac test, milled .006 off of mating surface) These heads are in very good shape, with only one cylinder cracked between valves, very minor and it vac tested fine. Problem is, I look in the exhaust port and there is a crack through the wall seperating the 2 exhaust ports. It is in a parllel plane to the head, Cam side, going through that wall. Again, Vac test showed no leak there. I popped the freeze plug and looked through to the back side of that wall and can't see any crack. I took it to a local aluminum welder to zap it just to make sure. I want to know how the coolant passage looks where that V shaped wall diverges. I am tempted to sacrafice one of the heads I just pulled off the engine I am using for my bottom end build up. Now I am worried that the welder Is gonna F-up my freshly machined head so I want to wait just incase I need anopther head. Damn, I wish I could get pics up. I swear I was trying with small files. I was doing it from work(dial up at home) and USMB seems to get bogged down with database errors during lunchtime.

2x full (9 quarts) would be practically pouring out the dipstick hole . If the level shows above the full line by "2x", you are actually about one quart over. Just as the low line is one Quart low. Honestly, I hate to say it, but I think you are not giving the car enough time to "drain down" it's oil into the pan, and or reading the stick wrong. There is oil still up in the dipstick tube and baffles for quite awhile after shut off. I think you're dipstick is picking up/scraping off some of this oil. There is no way a cold engine will be at proper level and a warm one "2x" full. Oil doesn't come from thin air. and it doesn't hide until you drive it either. If you're worried go by the cold engine reading as that is the best way to check you're oil