Gloyale

You can get to the plug that the ignition wires go through very easily under dash, possibly even through fuse box hole. But since the steering lock would still be on, my bet is they just stuck any Subaru key(or nissan) and wiggled and turned. Every old soob I've had, even my 93 Legacy, will unlock and start with almost any key and a little wiggle. I like that cause I have just one key for my 3 Soobs:clap: Not so good for security though:(

Are you looking in the 86 FSM? I went to that page and found something different. I did however find daerons page numbers match the 88 FSM. The wire colors and pins you describe match the 88 as well. And wire collor is different at the ECU between 86 ans 88. I don't have an 87 FSM. Unfortunately, the 86 FSM does not give a numbered pinout of the ECU connectors. I am going to try, by compareing the 2 to figure out which wires you need. It seems the pin locations are the same but the wire colors are different. Here it is: + to TPS= Green w/Yellow stripe at ECU pin 26, Same color at TPS, Same color at check connector under dash(9 pin, white, not red) in the corner of plug Signal wire= Green w/White stripe stripe at ECU(pin 25), same at TPS, same color at check connector(9 pin,white, not red) middle row, edge. Idle switch wire= Green at ECU. This one is tough. 86 FSM shows 2 green wires at the ECU. One at pin 9, one at pin 20. In 88 those pins go to diffenernt sensors(MAF and Crank sens. respectively) 86 FSM show the wire as Lt. Blue w/ Green(LG) at TPS, but changes to solid green at big round engine connector, continues as solid green to the ECU and to Check connector. Different check connector than other 2. this one is the big one by the drivers strut under hood. Green wire right under lock tab. It is possible that the 86 FSM has a misprint, I've seen it before. Confirm that that wire chages to solid green by looking at the big round connector by battery. Find the Lt.Blue/Green(LG) wire on engine side of connector, and see if the corresponding wire is solid Green(G) If it is different color, look for that color wire at the Check connector, middle pin. And at the ECU. It should be same color wire from that engine connector all the way to the ECU. Gound wire= Blackw/ red stripe(BR) shares ground with the rest of the engine harness. There are 3 BR wires at ECU and all should have ground, they are all connected at one point or another. I would check that the Ground wire bolted to intake manifold has a solid connection as the ECU gets all it's grounding from there. Unplug ECU and TPS and test for continuity between. Test between ECU and check connectors, and TPS and check connectors, check continuity across both sides of that big round connector by battery. I am interested to hear how this turns out. BTW, Pin 24 in the 86 FSM is for the Temp sensor for ECU White w/ Black stripe(WB).

I'd like to see another cut. Could you basically cut the bottom 1/3 off of the siamesed exhaust section. You could just cut the Cam side half you got after the 4th cut. There are 2 small freeze plugs on the cam side of head. I'd like the cut to go through those holes, parallel to the surface of the exhaust flange. I will try to get a picture with a line drawn on it, but I have never been able to get pics to upload. I always get a database error.

Exhaust pipe rubbing against driveshaft? The live very close to each other. Whoever welded in a new pipe on mine got it a little too close and mine rubs, ussually only when decelerating, as the engine/trans torques a little to the left.

So you've tried 2 TPSs' and still the same thing? Sounds like wireing or bad connection issues. I will post excact wire colors, pin locations and resistance values tonight. Could be a bad connection to the ecu. When those pins get screwy it's really hard to figure out.

I put a big amethyst crystal in my aircleaner. Make sure it's below the airfilter, don't want that sucked into the intake!

That sound pretty normal to me. Maybe not for a brand new carrier bearing. But for any old one that is normal. (it's made to flex, mounted in rubber ya know). There is never really any load in that direction. And the driveshaft just slides into the tailshaft of tranny, so it's normal for that to slide to whatever degree the carrier bearing allows. As long as the carrier bearing is solid, ie: no cracks or spits in the rubber, no ball bearings fallin out, or other bad signs.

Socket is blue. It has 4 wires as follows: Signal from ECU= Lt.Blu w/Blue stripe wire. comes from pin 47 of ecu. power out to pump= Lt.blu w/ White stripe wire, This wire can also be found and checked for power at the big "check" connector(13 pins natural) near strut tower and "test" connector. same color, Lt.Blue w/White stripe 3rd pin in from left top, next to the lock tab. Grounds=2 Black w/ White stripe wires, or same wire split or jumped to both. It lives beside steeering coumn, clipped to it, above where the stock ECU would be. Can be obscured by the ECU. blue connector and wires are the positive identifiers.

That hose coming off of the cast piece is for the Auxillary Air Valve(AAV). It goes from the casting, to the valve on top of T-stat cover. Then out of that valve to throttle body. AAV will see boost. But the PCV should not as it is(should be) on the air intake side of the turbo, not the pressure output side of turbo.

I have learned, GD, that you are one to be believed when it comes to factual matters regarding subaru. You are however quite frequently prone to the "my way or no way" view of thing of a subjective matter. Like the case here. The engine in this car is excactly the same as any 86 XT, RX or GL-10 Turbo? Are you saying they are all worthless? Recipes for disaster? Many of us here love our Turbo cars. Your're opinion of the sedan styling is you're own and irrelivant to a person that cars about transportation, not their ego. Note I did not suggest the OP buy this car for the rice asked. I just said if it drives off the lot it is worth $100. It's not the one you would want so you slam it as worthless. Hell, a running ea82t motor is worth $100 for the parts.

I feel offering less than $100 bucks for a car you can drive away is a little cheap. Just because we all love AWD and manual shifting does not mean everyone needs that. some people just need a car. Not the Ultimate Subaru.

Wires for front speaker pos. +: LEFT= Yellow RIGHT= White For rear speaker pos. +: LEFT= Yellow w/white stripe RIGHT= White w/LT. Blue stripe Common speaker grounds: Left= Lt. Blue w/Red stripe Right=Lt. Blue w/Dk. Blue stripe Good luck Daeron!

grounds are blue for left. blue/orange stripe for right. To loacate which wire are + for fronts, use a 9v battery. touch the ground to the neg post and wire by wire try them on the positve. This will make the speaker "click" you should be able to hear which one. On top of that I think you are looking for white for right side and yellow for left. I can post excact colors tonight if you still need them. You can also easily tap into those wires under the kick panels on each side. speaker wires go through a 2 prong, pink connector one on each side. Just crimp spades onto some new speaker wire and plug it into the pink connectors, run to the middle of dash. That eliminates all the common grounding problems.

Actually the front shaft only has one. at the Trans end. The rear of that shaft goes through carrier bearing. It's fixed in place, and has a flange to bolt to the Second shaft. The second shaft(rear) has a U-joint at each end. The first driveshaft is held in by the carrier bearing. It cannot "drag" unless the entire carrier bearing were to fall out. In my experience(seen 2 u-joints fail on soobs. They didn't break but all the needle bearing caps rusted out= lots of slop= breakin soon) It is the one at the FRONT of the front shaft. I think this is what happened to OP. The front end of that shaft was being whipped around under the car, still spinning from the movement of vehicle driving rear axle. It most likely struck the tailshaft of trans and caused the damage. I always wondered if it would do damage inside car when one of these failed. Aparently so, though not terrible I guess.

none of that sounds that bad. Bald tire and a broken belt are no reason to throw away a car. And we wonder why our resources are becoming depleated? it's this kind of mindset. Should have at least passed it on to somebody, instead of giving it to a JY. I'd Move to a state where they are not nazi's about inspections. East coast states just want you to pay another big sales tax and registration after THEY destroy you're car with salted roads. ( iknow he didn't mention rust, but the salt contributes to so much else too)

Common now, don't be TOO harsh to the EA82t. I have put lot's and lot's(re:30,000 or more) miles on mine and it has been good to me. The problem is with old ones that have been neglected. If you get one and go through the whole thing right away. Like ALL cooolant hoses, new t-stat, new belts, vac hoses(often overlooked) and check the condition of Oil pump and water pump, flush radiator and heater core, you are far less likely to have problems. I have owned a total of 7 older soobs. The Turbos to me don't seem that much more problematic. Just harder to get good parts for or repair info. I've had 3 headgaskets go on NA engines and only one on a turbo. The 89 gl turbo I drive now has 232,000 miles on original motor.(one HG change) If you don't want to work on you're car much, don't buy any old soob. That all said I agree that the price is too high. Should be more like $300-500 tops. Wait! 2wd? then $100-200

Right, either one can provide a basic speed pulse to the 4eat, but only the front one actuates the speedometer on dash.

Yeah that's right. I really don't think the speedometer will function off of the rear speed sensor. I know my older automatic, the rear sender only goes to the TCU, not to the dash or engine management.

Head=reciever=display. Correct Manual or Auto(Vss2) Manuals have one sender(vss1) Automatics are a little confusing: in automatics, sometimes both speed senders are referred to as VSS1 and VSS2. (what do you call the head unit then?) I can't explain the logic. 94 and earlier still used a cable. So there was only the rear sender, and the display which had a sensor incorporated for the front axle signal, but was physically driven by a cable. When they changed to the electric signal type speedometer(95) they kept the same terms even though there are now 3 electrical sensors involved in the speedo system. confused yet?

That's why I proposed testing the sender first. It is easier to access, and can actually be tested in the car, with a set of 6ft leads w/clips. hook up the voltmeter, set it on the dash and go for a drive. If it tests good, and has no "hiccup" at the low end then the issue may be in the head unit(speedometer) or wires perhaps. But wiring issues would be more random jumping or total failure. What does rev limiting feel like? Well, in an automatic it will probably just shift at a lower rpm. And won't go into 4th. But in a Manual it sucks, right as you get to the powerband @4000 rpms, feels like the car loose all power. so you have to make sure to shift early. Nipper is right that if you're speedo isn't working on an automatic(or the second speed sensor in rear of automatics) then you're AWD will not work. the system uses compared speed of front and rear to detect slip and distribute torque to rear end. NOTE: The rear speed sensor doesn't affect the actual speedometer display. It is just used by computer to control trans, so probably don't worry about that. I was just giving you more info on the whole system.

Much eaiser to pull the sender from trans. it's on the passenger side towards front. whole thing screws out of trans. hook an AC voltmeter to each pin of connector. spin it by hand and you should get a voltage reading of .5 volts or more as you spin it by hand. If you have long test leads, you can just unplug the connector, hook up the voltmeter and go for a drive. It should read a steadily increasing voltage as speed increases. Makie sure to use the AC scale of voltmeter. And really if all it's doing is a little hop, you may not have to worry for a while still. These tests are for if it goes completely.

Sounds like one of the speed sensors goin out, either the sender(side of trans) or reciever(speedo display). I would guess the sender, because it is subject to heat and lots of spinning. Where as the display lives inside the car at relatively stable temps and is basically an analog voltmeter. If it fails completely, the engine will run a bit funny, may stall coasting to stop, and will not rev past 4000 rpms. I paid about 110 to a dealer for a new one.

Maf is on the air filter box. it is connected to the engine by the big black tube that goes from the air filter to the engine. MAF stands for Mass Airflow Sensor. It tells the ECU how much air the engine is sucking in. make sure that big tube is clamped tightly to both the MAF and to the throttle body, and that it has no cracks or breaks. Other than this I am thinking Throttle Position Sensor(TPS). DO you have any kind of book to help you locate and test this stuff? do you have a multimeter to test it? There should be stuff about each of those sensors and how to test if you search. Search the whole words, not the 3 letter abreviations(search ignores those)

When I did my legacy axles, the stubs pulled out completely. I replaced the circlips, changed the stubs to the new axles, installed pins, AND THEN installed the whole deal back in the diff. It just slid toghether with a"click" when the circlips caught. 20,00 miles latter, and no leaks or other problems. Honestly, this is how 95% of all axles install in other types of cars. I don't think removing the side caps is a good idea, as they determine the spacing and preload on the diff bearings. There is a detailed proceedure that is supposed to be performed with the trans removed and on it's side to set this preload. If you're worried you could pry the seals out and replace, but don't mees with those caps. You don't have the proper tool anyway, you'd have to punch it out a few tabs at a time, chances of getting it all assembled properly when done are not great. It's supposed to be adjusted within .020 inches or so. and with a car that new I would not want to screw with it. This happened to me on a 93 leagcy with a 4eat auto. It's possible there is a difference in you're 01. But I don't think so. Subaru changed their drivetrain stuff very little in the Legacys(outbacks) I think you can pull the stub all the way out and do the axle fitting on the bench. If you're axle won't pin to the stub you've got a seperate issue there. but if you get it toghether. install a new circlip, shove it back in.

The fact you have spark and at least some fuel points me at timing. Both valve timing and spark timing wil be thrown off if the timing belts slipped. The crank angle sensor is built into the distributor. So it is all related. I think you're next step is to check and see if you're timing belts are still aligned properly. There is a little rubber cover on the back of the engine. romve it and you see the Flywheel. rotate the motor by hand using a 22mm socket until it lines up on the center of the 3 marks( not the numbered timing marks, these three are 90 degrees away from the timing ones) pull the outer timing belt covers, one on each end. the little dots on the pulleys should be one straight up, one straight down. If they are not you need to reset the belt timing. And probably replace the belts if they have jumped. Once you're sure the belts are lined up right, rotae the motor by hand again until it lines up on the 0 of the timing marks. Look at the rotor in distributor, it should be pointing at the number 1 or number 3 of the cap, depending on whether you're on compression or exhaust stroke. If it's pointing anywhere else, you're distributor is in wrong. Has this engine run for you before? did it just stop running? Is the blinking red light you're talking about the ECS light on the dash?