Gloyale

Test for continuity across the link. Or test for 12v at both sides.

Go by the 88 and later spfi chart. you've got code 12 it sounds like. This is sometimes just a result of sustained cranking without start. I would look at spark and fuel again. Have you checked all the fuses and fusible links? Have you cranked the engine with the distributor cap off to see if the rotor spins? and verified it is attached firmly to the shaft?

Weld some braces off of that Trailer hitch and it should be better for the diff and for the hitch.

Remove and test thermostat as well.

Well, You don't have an ECS wire at all then. There will be a spot for the ecs lamp. it is probably blacked out thought. So wire any type of indicator light you'd like. As far as charge light. You're best bet still is to remove that bezel. There are six screws. Just make sure all the plugs in back are disconnected and pull. once off, on each side there is a box that holds all the warning lights. All the wires are right there, and do not go throught the instrument panel plugs or harness at all.

It's a vac canister for holding a resevrve of vaccum for the heat/vent controls insdie cabin. It can be relocated, but is needed or your vents won't work.

pretty easy actually. You would just need to install a pedal assembly from a manual, and the shift linkage, along with the trans itself. You need to get a flywheel and clutch aswell, but that can be scavenged easily with the trans. There is a vaccum line going to the governor on you're automatic that would need plugged.(it would need plugged for a 4eat swap as well, since it doesn't use vaccum)

There are six screw holding the dash bezeel on. two under the bezel, 2 above instrument cluster, and 2 under the defrost and off buttons of the vent/heat selector. It is also clipped kinduv and takes a good yank and pry to get the right end with the vents in it loose. The CEL and Charge lights are in that bezel so there is no reason to remove the instrument cluster itself. Did you get my E-mails with diagrahms? I also told you excactly where to find all these wires already. And why do you need the charge an CEL lights? what are you trying to wire to them? Voltmeter would wire to power from fuse 12, or any Ig. switched 12v for that matter. And the CEL? what are you trying to accomplish?

Did you read Skips post? it's all right there. Read the code article. sorry but we can't help you with just a description of clicks and whirrs from somewhere. Check the green test connector under hood, by drivers side strut tower. back of engine bay. Very close to Wiper motor. If that green connector, or the other White "read" connector are plugged toghether, unplug them. See what you get. If that light is flashing steady blinks 5 to 8 of them, then that is telling you that there are no active trouble codes. If it is any other esequence of flashes, it is a code and again reffer to article, go from there.

I think you will have an issue with the TPS. Even with all the other obstacles aside(trans tunnel, wiring the TCU, 25 spline axles, etc...) I think you will hit a snag wtih the TPS(throttle posittion sensor) The 4eat TCU uses signal from the TPS to determine shift charcteristics. The TPS on you're 85 is very different from the one used in the 87 and later models. If you put a later style TPS on you're engine then you're engine won't run right. If you simply don't wire in the TCU to the TPS then it will assume 5/8 open throttle all the time, and shift accordingly, so It would still drive. But it would be setting a trouble code on you. of course with no power light to display it who cares( If a code sets and no one can see it, is there really a problem? Trees falling..) I have thought of perhaps piggybacking a second TPS onto the back of the stock one.(i wanted to do this to use a Legacy Trans in my GL Turbo) But it would take drilling a hole in the back of the old TPS and extending the throttle shaft through to the second one. Only a thought. I haven't actually tried it.

[ I think you are misunderstanding this statement. I was trying to address what people have said about the lock switch. I am trying to say you should not be running 12v to anywhere to do it. except maybe for an indicator light through a dp/dt switch. then I mention the FWD fuse because it is related, and some people have talked of trying to incorporate it in the mod. It is a seperate cicuit. 2nd way to effect the same thing, but not the same. I know what the lock switch does, I have it. It interupts the Solenoid wire= no volts. I know what the Fuse does aswell. I have a seperate switch mounted inside, wired with spades going into the connector, with a fuse inline for convieniece. It's a seperate switch and circuit still though. It won't however function if the "lock" switch is open, interupting the solenoid wire. I get it. I am just being clear that the FWD fuse circuit should never be given power. And that the Solenoid Circuit should never be wired to ground. They are two circuits that interact but are not actually connected. One signals the other. And really I am not trying to Flame. I newbed it with the "elite master" thing way back but I really am not on here to fight:mad: I am here cause I love to see more people driving old subes:) and to pick to death old threads the OP isn't even reading Probably:lol: Short version: IE: DON"T WIRE THEM TOGHETHER!

Does it show continuity if you touch the leads together? that test's the meter. If meter is good, and you've ot the same wire at both ends and no continuity you've nailed it. Break in wire or loose connections at an intermidiate plug. Tell us which wire has no continuity and I can tell you where to find it in the intermediate plugs, color, pin.

What part of your dash is getting stuck? you have to reach behind and undo all the plugs. Did you pry off the "OFF" and"Defrost" buttons and remove those screws? of course the Two above gauges, two under the charge/oil/ecs lights. If you're mounting an after market I think you could run a wire from the back of the fuse box from the wire out of fuse 12. The cel Light wire is LG (light bluew/green) out of the dash. Then changes to RY (red w/yellow) going through the right of the 3 blue connectors behind the fuse box. It's in the top corner by with the notch. It also has a brach going to the brownish check connector by the strut tower in engine. RY there too, bigger of two connectors, 2nd pin to right of notch in middle. It is also RY at the ECU pin 40. ECU pins are numbered on the plug(really small). disconnect battery before unplugging ECU

:clap: Three cheers for the pizza sube! I delivered myself for a few years, in a total of 4 different Suby's! In Wisconsin so I got lots and lots of snow time! :banana: Also flats and other breakdowns that once did require using AAA. ALWAYS TIP THE PIZZA GUY WELL! Especially if they're in a Rusty Sube!

It has a similar effect, but is not really the same. The FWD fuse cicuit carries no power(perhaps mV) it is a signal wire to the TCU. When you insert the fuse it connects that terminal of the TCU to ground and "tells" it to send max power (95% Duty cycle) to the Solenoid. That power is output from a different terminal. The power for the solenoid does not run through the FWD fuse circuit. 12v wired straight to solenoid has the same effect of fully energizing the Solenoid. But it doesn't and should not be made to have anything to do with the FWD fuse. I have a feeling that reports of "fried switches" from this mod are a result of some version of mis wiring like this. Not trying to say you're wrong Nip, just clarifying. Better Clarity is always good for the forum.

Tarmac, is the donor FT4WD trans an automatic or a manual? Is the 85 an automatic or a manual? This needs to be clarified before any real concrete answers can be given. Right now it's all "if this then that" kind of answers. Note also that there are Changes in the engine mangement between the 85 and the 88. 85,86 are old design, with Flapper MAF, seperate knock control unit, and no wastgate solenoid on the turbo.(it opens directly from the intake pressure) 87+ integrated the knock contrlol into the ECU, change to hotwire MAF, and uses a solenoid to control wastegate operation. TPS is also different between the 2 styles. Most other parts however are the same. Also in 88 Cali turbos, and all 89 turbos, the EGR system is eliminated. Another note: some early 87 XT turbos used the old style turbo set up.

I asked my machinist about this when I dropped of my heads to be surfaced and Vac tested. He seemed to think it would hurt the quench effect and may hurt performance. That is why I started thinkin about custom pistons. The "tub" in a turbo piston is about 6mm deep. I was thinkin if you mill a tub in the NA pistons about 3mm deep you'd be there. The valve relief cuts are about that deep already.

It's a good start and I appreciate it. I have a nearly new WP and OP already. I really am thinkin more about dishing the standard 9:1s out a little. Theres got to be some meat for it, caus there's already the valve recesses. If I just went as deep as they are in a tub around the piston. When I say "I" I mean the machinist doing the work. I'm paying to make it happen so it's still "me " doin it right?

Yeah, I would tend to agree. Crossmember is the straw on the camel for me.

Well I was just searching to try to find the post. But I swear there was someone talkin about a Legacy w/MT that was stuck with one wheel spinning in snow. That to me sounds like an open diff. Legacies came out in late 89 and I didn't think the viscous center came standard till 91. And I swore the guy who was stuck had a 97ish OBW. If I am wrong so be, but the viscous units are not always any better than an open diff anyhow. I read his edit. I think we're splitting hairs, my point is that really other than the name, there is no difference between AWD/FT4wd. Both are basically the same in design and function, MT or AUTO respectively. The later AWD's are still the same trans design just with a limited slip. If there had been a limited slip center offered in the old FT4wd, would they have called it anything different? Probably not. It's all marketing, and which name "tested" better with the sales department.

Hmm.. I don't think I want to spend 500 bucks on pistons. I was just lookin for some OEM style 7.7:1's

It is not a flat 3. It is an inline 3. Can we start a new thread for that? I really would like to talk more about the high compression Turbo EA82 subject. Can anyone tell me where to find aftermarket pistons?

I'm thinking of going the high compression route simply because the Turbo pistons are very hard to find. The machine shop thats got my engine right now can't get me a new set. Standard size or otherwise. Does anyone know where to find a set of .030 over 7.7 pistons? Anyone ever tried milling out a little of the 9:1 carb pistons to make a 8.x?

FT4WD=AWD. only difference is the terminology. AWD abrieviates easy and rolls off the tongue. That's the only difference. heres why: First, Many AWD Subarus have an open center diff. Not all are viscous. Second the automatic FT4wd and AWD are basically the same. They are all 4EATs. a few minor changes to the trans over the years but still the same function. They rely on the TCU(computer) to decide how much torque to send to the rear. My 93 Legacy does a great job controlling it in the snow. My 89 GL "FULLTIME" not so much. I used a switch to interupt power to the Transfer solenoid which locks the car in 4wd like an old 3spd Part time auto. I do not agree with Phizinza about the automatics off road performance. And I'm not relying on video, but my own experience. No Subaru without some modifications is a true "Off-Road" vehicle, but both my automatics hold there own in mud, snow and gravel. I've never been stuck unless it was a clearance issue. In which case it doesn't matter if you've got a triple nuclear super tranny, you're stuck.

Physically, The 4eat may not fit the trans tunnel in an 85. They did not use the FT4wd until 88. I think it probably would fit with a little BFH coaxing. You would need to use the 25 spline front axles, a 3.7 rear diff, unless you're 85 is an Automatic 4wd, then you've got it already. You'll want the rear driveline from the turbo car, the length of the front section will be different. Also you need to swap the front crossmember from the turbo car to clear the exhaust. You will need the turbo exhaust or something fabbed. Also Aircleaner box and MAF. That's the physical differences. The real challenge is that you would need to install the Turbo wiring, ECU(eng. Comp), TCU(trans comp) and the 4 speed shifter. If the 85 is already automatic, you could use it shifter, and wire the "1st hold" through the 4wd switch. That is of course all for the Automatic "Fulltime" If the Fulltime trans you're lookin to use is manual, Ignore the TCU and shifter comments. But you will still need to do the ECU wiring for the turbo engine. I'D think better off to put good stuff from the 85 into the Turbo car.