Gloyale

That must be an Australia thing. That fuse puts the US cars into FWD

Any Automatic impreza sure as heck does have as 4eat if it is automatic. Unless it is a 5eat? And look for "transfer clutch" solenoid.

Check that the knuckle is connected to the strut tightly and not moving. It may be that the circlip that fixes the axle end into the outer joint has popped off or out. Go buy a CV clamp, cut the old one( the clamp) off of the outer joint, and inspect it. If it has popped out, you should swing the knuckle out far enough to pull the end of the axle out and install a new clip. reassembly, grease the joint and clamp the boot back on.

You may be able to scavenge the gears from a non turbo car. And actually you could use any 5spd, but you would need to install 23 spline cups onto the ends of the XT6 axles. And the whole reason the turbos and 6 cylinders used the 25spline stubs is cause of the extra power. So I wouldn't want to put the extra power through them. The other difference is that the final drive ratios may not match. You're car is either a 3.7 or 3.9 rearend. Look at the back of the rear differential, there should be a sticker to ID the ratio and also will say "LSD" in big letters if it has limited slip. Here's the tricky part. The Turbo cars used a 3.7 ratio trans. You're XT6 may have a 3.9. In fact if it is a "fulltime 4WD" it does have a 3.9 If it has selective 4wd, it will have a 3.7. If you use a 3.7 Ratio trans you can get a 3.7 diff from a turbo car or any Automatic 4wd car. Also many old EA81 cars used 3.7 rear ends,

I think something has been missed. The difference between a reading at full, and a reading where the oil is just barely off of the stick is 1 qt. low, not empty. So a reading that far above the full line would be 1 quart overfull. not 2x the total amount of oil. 1 quart overfull is much more understandable from a "jiffy lube" place than 9 quarts. And that would be consistant with the fact there really hasn't been any driveability issues, other than oil smell. That said, I would never, ever, ever take my car to one of those places.

Any trans from a 4wd Turbo car would work. They all have 25 pline front axle stubs. Even the early part time/ push button 5speed would work.

Okay, there has been alot of questions about dash pinouts lately so I thought I'd post this to help some folks out. to cover most everyones bases with the fewest scans and files, I am posting only 86 and 88 pinouts right now. If you have a specific question about a different year, I have 85 and 89 FSMs as well. It seems my 87 set never made it back to me from last time I loaned it out.(and it will be the last time I loan an FSM again) 85/86 are nearly identical. 87-89 are also very much the same if not identical. Loyales also are nearly identical to the 88s. I have never seen an FSM for 90-94 Loyale. does anyone know if they made them? or did they just put out "Updates" after 90? Note: the print date on the 86 Manual is July, 85. Likewise the 88 manual was printed July, 87. EDIT: Trouble uploading. I will get these up soon. sorry for the tease

That's just a 320,000 mile motor doin it's thing. The HLAs do where out, but even new ones are prone to an amount of clickin

DOJ to tranny spindle first, then reattach knuckle to ball joint, or strut, which ever you undid to swing the knuckle out.

There is only one in the transmission for a 93. And as Nipper said, If one is failed or disconnected you get no AWD. I don't think that test will help. You can test the one coming from back of transmission by testing for AC voltage across the 2 terminal.(there a 3 terminals but one is grounded shield) Hook up some long leads to it, connect it to volmeter inside car and go for a drive. By 6 mph you should have at least 1 ACvolt, and increasing steadily with vehicle speed from there. The sensor inside the dash is a bit harder to get to, but can be tested in a similar manner. If you have a pinout for the wirng there may be a check connector pin that you can test for the pulse. But for it you want to test continuity between the speed pulse wire and ground as you rotate the speedometer cable. It should pulse between 0 and infinite. pull the cable out at the trans end and rotate it by hand. Measuring resistance with the circuit energized(by driving) can give bad readings/damaged ohmeter.

I'm not sure what you mean about the bearings moving? are you talking about the spacer in beween the 2 bearings? I believe the problem is because you are installing a new axle. The axle shaft is supposed to fit VERY tightly inside the bearings. Actually it is pressed into the bearings from the factory. They wear a bit, so the old one slides out, but the new axle isn't worn so it needs pressed, or pulled through. Subaru mades a tool that pulls the axle through. Axle installer(922431000 or 925130000) But you don't need it. First however you have to Unbolt the caliper and bracket and hang it with bungee, then pull the Disc/hub assm. carefully remove the outer bearing seal from knuckle. Put the axle through as far as you can. You should be able to get it to stick out just a couple threads past the face of the hub. use 2 short pieces of 1 in. angle iron to span across the bearing opening, either side of the axle shaft. You can even notch the sides of the irons about 1/2 to fit around the axle shaft. Then use a heavy washer and the axle nut to pull the axle through against the iron.

There are several threads about dash wiring right now. I am going to try to scn a few diagrahms from 86, 87, and 88 FSMs at work tommorow. I'll post a link.

Hmm. not sure why you would want to do this? In that case yu will have LOTS of wirning headaches. but Pulling out the whole dash is easy. Just unplug all the connectors in both footwells, unbolt and remove. There is one cable for the air door on the drivers side that is hard to see. You could pull both dashes, and strip the wiring from your 86 and put it all into the 87. then you would not have to rewire anything, just fit the 86 harness into the 87 shell. It would all just plug back in. I am assuming that the vinyl is cracked or for some other reason you want to swap the whole dash? Not like its a big jump in style or anything

I had a 69 vw bus with "crank walk". Ussually that kind of thing will trash front and rear main seals. I don't have any signs of leaking from them. I am 99.9 % sure I've got a rod going.

never mind then. Lucky Canuck. QUOTE=markman34]With the dog in the car, If I'm not bringing fresh air in to the car, the windows fog up pretty good. I can relate to that. 3 dogs

Okay we need to clarify. I am saying the instrument cluster will interchange plug and play. You are right that other components in the dash have been relocated. But actually the plugs for most of those things are still the same. and not moved that far away I've interchanged many parts from an 88 to an 86 in the past. As far as the ENTIRE DASH there are some differences in plugs at the big multiple junction. So I guess we need to ask the OP Are you talking about swapping instrument cluster? or the ENTIRE dash? The big differnece is the Windsheild wiper switch which was moved to the stalk. If you want to swap entire dash, you would need to get the turnsignal/wiper switch assembly from an 87+ steering column. Which brings us to that question. Yes the steering wheel and infact the entire column from an 87 will fit the 86. but If you are not swapping entire dash, it would be easier to just swap the Steering wheel itself.

He makes a strong point:lol:

Awesome, glad it worked. You can inspect the flapper function by checking the cable that is clipped to the side of the heater box on Drivers side . It is pretty easy to see without removing anthing. Look to see that the cable housing is clipped in tight and that it is moving the lever it's connected to when you move the Temp. selector. The core itself can be seen by removing the lower plastic cover on Pass side. You can see that the ducting is in 3 sections from right to left: Blower, Evap Core box(AC) or just an empty box, then the heater core/distribution box. If you have AC/ you have to disconnect the refrigerant lines in eng comp to remove the evap core. If you DON"T have AC you are lucky. There are metal bands clipped around both ends of the box, and 2 or 3 10mm bolts holding it to firewall. It remnoves easy asnd the heater core and flap are visible right there. Note however the core cannot be removed without removing the whole distribution box. But you can clean the leaves out of it. Last thing, plug that fresh air intake vaccuum line. it can be accessed easily by simply tilting the glovebox down. Reconnect in summer. It makes a huge difference. I have spent alot of time driving soobs in sub zero weather

The only differences I see are that in 86 there is a "Rear Defrost" light on the instrument cluster. However there is not a wire shown going to it. But there is a rear gate lock light wired to the same pin. that the R.defrost uses on the 87 so you can plug in and go. But i think you're defrost light will stay on when ever the r.gate is unlocked? So maybe you can wire it so the defrost is used insdtead. Note this is from the USA market FSM's

Well, I am now very sure it is rod knock. After a fresh oil change, I have no trace of TOD, but there is still a slight rattatatat. Not tickityticktick. And I can hear induce it by slight on/off throttle movements. In fact it really only knocks right around the point where the crankshaft goes from "driving" as opposed to being "driven" by flywheel momentum(this is an Auto so TC). this adds up to classic rod knock, and I will need to kick start my rebuild progress on the new motor.

3 easy steps for owning a rust free 4WD older Subaru in the midwest. Because all the 4WD ones are rusted naturally from driving in salt in the winter:eek: (2wds stayed home:grin: ) step one: buy a ticket to Seattle, or Portland(OR), Step two: once you're there buy newspaper, or walk around, have a cab drive you around. It won't take you more than an hour to find a good old 4x4 Sube and probaly some newer(Legacy,Impreza) ones as well for 1500 or less, sometimes much less. Step 3: Make sure you've got a spare set of timing belts, then drive it home to the salty midwest. Skip step 2 and use Craigslist or EBAY. But then be prepared to go out with tools, parts, and time, because you don't know excactly what you'll get

If he can't fix it now, then the light will be on anyway, and he won't know if a new prob comes up cause the light is already on. The tape is a VERY temporary solution. He should fix it soon or at least put a resitor on there to fool the ecu and turn off CEL.

I have looked, and honestly can't find a real reason why it wouldn't be Okay, other than that there really isn't clearance or "space" for it, you're basically just right on the edge of engagement of either gear and perhaps a small movement could cause it to grab suddenly, and just at the edge. This could damage the tooth edges? I just tend to think there is a reason they put that sticker there. But who knows, maybe the resaon was just to cover there own arses IF there was ever a problem.

There is a spot in the shifter range where it is not engaged to either gear, but that is not "neutral". It is simply no fully engaged to either. I just know that Subaru warns against it repeatedly. Even to the point of a sticker right there on the shifter: "When shift lever depress clutch while driving. Do not leave shifter between HI and LO positions"

I ran my 86 GL Turbo for years with no Knock sensor at all, simply because I could not find one(for less than $200). Didn't ever seem to be an issue. No CEL, back then the Knock unit was seperate from ECU. I think a piece of black tape will fix the CEL until you can afford a new (or used) knock sensor.