Gloyale

The 87 Sooberstition is counter acted by the "built on a tuesday" good MOJO.

DO NOT leave Lever between positions! There is no "NEUATRAL". Subarus literature warns against this. I believe it even says so on the sticker below the Dual range shifter. But it definately says it in the owners manuals and FSM's Leave it in FWD so the rear driveline is disengaged.

The fresh air intake can be defeated by simply disconnecting and capping the Vaccuum line that goes to the vent door. if you bend the glovebox sides in a bit it will swing open further so you can see into the dash. The Vac hose is easy to spot back there. it is hard plastic line until about a foot before the air intake box. pull off the rubber part and cap the plastic line, or just put a clothes pin on the rubber to clamp it, whatever. With no vaccuum to the door it will stay closed and recirculate cabin air. I vote for the garden hose flushing, and an inspection of the core to see if there are leaves/debris piled up on it. It's easy if you don't have AC, the box between fan and core comes right out. That said You should think about the condition of your water pump. OEM pumps had a heavy cast piece for an impeller, but aftermarkets often use a stamped peice of steel. These stamped impellers are prone to rusting away if the car has been run on just water(unlikely in Canada I suppose) They rust away and you have just a bare nub spinning inside the water pump. So the flow through the whole engine would be very low. If your top radiator hose gets very hot, but the bottom one is totally cold, this may be the case. If you have a new(ish) pump and have always had good Antifreeze mix in it this is probably not the problem. But I did once have excactly the same simptoms in a Nissan Maxima and the water pump was the problem.

I really don't know there. There is no mention of that in the FSM. But hey couldn't hurt.

Maybe it's hair splitting, but HEAD and BLOCK are different things. Cracked head is not a cracked block.

Is this the report from the dealer? I think the shim issue is most likely. However, because the AWD will engage by defeating the Solenoid C, and does engage after a few seconds slip, It still seems like your TCU is not detecting slip, or at least not sending the signal to the solenoid. Notice the dealer checked TCU sensor parameters. As in the Sensors are sending correct info to the TCU. But that doesn't mean that the TCU is actually interpreting and responding to those signals correctly, and outputting correctly. Did they actually put a scope on the SOL. C wire and see that that the signal drops off during wheel slip? $100 bucks to check and reshim the transfer clutches sounds like a good start to me. then that will be either fixed, or ruled out as a problem. As long as that is a possibility, it makes any other diagnosis difficult.

You guys are scaring him. It's not that hard or expensive to swap a motor. And there is no reason to think it needs anymore than HGs at this point. You don't even know if the heads are cracked. I've done 4 Turbo HG changes, and only once did I encounter a head that was cracked all the way to the coolant passages. The other 3 I resealed and away they went. None have come back with problems. Who the heck said anything about a cracked block? I have never even seen an EA82 crack a block. A few I've seen throw rods. But he would know if it had a thrown rod. Big hole in the top of block:dead:

10w40 all the time. If you get quality cam seals they won't blow.

I think someone needs to verify that the clutch pack was put back toghether properly with the right thickness of end plate. If all that checks out, I think at that point it is your TCU. I resorted to simply installing a switch for the Diff lock, and using it when I need. I am however still getting some power to my rear wheels normally, just not enough or consistent for deep snow. So then I use the switch. Despite the hub-bub about it, I believe it to be a fine Mod. Use it like you would use push button 4WD on an old GL or loyale 3spd. Only in snow, sand, mud, etc...

Well, the increased pressure could be pushing the piston that much further til it engages. This doesn't rule out the clutches but it does point in a different direction. Have you had them check both Vehicle Speed Sensors? If the car can't "see" the slip then it won't respond.

Aparently neither was the guy who fixed it. Or he was. and did it right and now we're seeing a TCU issue. Which Is why I suggested the solenoid test, so you have a clear picture when you take it back. That way the mechanic might actually fix the right thing.

Actually no, because that would still be reliant upon the TCU sending the proper signal in response. I'm inclined to agree. Except If someone already screwed it up, I'd hate to give him a second chance to do worse.

You can find out if it is indeed the clutches by doing a test version of the "lock switch" used by many people. Search "locking center diff mod" There is much debate as to whether or not this is a "safe" mod is, but I am only suggesting it here as a diagnosis tool. Basically you disconnect power to the Duty solenoid C which modilates the transfer pressure to the clutches. If it gets no power then full pilot pressure, minus the force of the transfer valve spring, goes to clutch. It should be pin 11 of the square connector at top/front of transmission. Note there are 2 plugs, you want the one that leads down to the Drivers side of trans. Pull the connector out of pin 11 carefully. Then drive around in a few circles to feel for torque bind. If you get full 4wd then you may have a sensor, wiring, or TCU problem. If you get nothing or very little engagement, it may be the clutches, or perhaps the transfer pipe has come loose? Improper clutch selection at replacement?

That would pronably work, I just wouldn't drive very fast maybe. They gave you an axle for a Turbo, 25 spline. You need one with 23 splines.

So if I use NA piston and remove about 0.6 cubic inches from head at each cylinder, I should end up around 8.5:1 like I want. Thanks

I would not use heat on any brake components you are going to reuse. Maybe to remove the old master, but not on the bleeder screws. You could damage rubber seals inside the cylinder/caliper if the heat gets in there. The heat is going to travel alot through the part. Plus you'll boil the brake fluid

Uh, well it got hot as hell, the right side CV boot caught fire and roasted everything rubber inside engine bay. The only thing still in the car from before the fire is the block. So there is a possibility that it suffered damage from the overheating/fire. There was only water in the Radiator, rusty water. And Both the turbo and the right side head where cracked, so my guess is it was overheated pretty bad. I think the wastegate on the turbo failed, cause it was cracked around there and the edges of the crack were melted! I'm really not sure excactly how hot it got though. The fire happened before I bought it on ebay. I knew I was going to have to put a new engine in it, or rebuild this one. But I really could not get any good info on the history or how the fire started.

I just went back and looked at you're first and second cuts. They show what I want pretty well. It looks like those shoulders are pretty thick. I think the dome idea will work great. I just have to calculate the volume difference between Turbo and NA pistons, then remove about half that volume from each cylinder head. I want to end up around 8.5:1 compression.

bump

It is probably the Relay. That is ussually the case when all 4 blower speed stop. It is located in a cluster of 4-6 relays up under dash. either clipped to steering column, or up a little higher behind dash. It is round. There are several up there. Last time I identified by wire colors but I don't have my FSM here at work. You could turn on blower, and if it works, pull relays until you get the one that turns it off. I grabbed a handful of them at the JY and from and 88 I parted out. Just had to replace opne in my buddies 86.

You would be the first I've heard of to actually need a new ECU. let us know how it goes

For god sake do something with it. Fix it up or part it out. I'd like to get that LSD:grin: Despite prospeeders bad ummm,...luck? These cars can be reliable and good daily drivers. My 89 turbo wagon is. Especially if you do a thourough reseal/recondition of the motor. Sounds like the perfect time if it needs HG's already. If there are lots of other issues, like rust, brakes, driveshaft, wheel bearings etc it could get expensive. But if it is generally good with blown HGs it would be worth it me thinks. as far as making money, good luck

I've seen a couple of them fail. actually more common than many other sensors cause it has moving parts and see's physical wear. A bad Idle switch would definately affect the idle. This is the jist of the FSM proceedure. First, check for continuity between terminal B(Black w/red wire) of TPS and ground. With throttle closed, there should be continuity between terminal A(Blue w/green wire, idle signal) and terminal B of TPS. With the throttle opened about a mm, there should be no continuity. Adjustment can be made by loosening the 2 screws that hold it and rotating. But if you can never get continuity between those terminals, idle switch in the TPS is shot. Replace TPS If all that checks out, it may be a harness issue. You can test it at the check connector in the engine bay by wiper motor. Also you can test at the ECU. First the check connector. The "natural" color check connector has 13 pins. The one dead center(Green wire) should have continuity with terminal B(Black w/ red wire) of TPS when throttle is closed, none when opened. My '86 FSM doesn't have numbered pins on the ECU, but it says that the signal wire is green at the ECU. There are only 2 Green wires shown at the ecu, one of them should be it. again continuity with throttle closed, none when open.

The Single port heads crack as well, all EA82 heads crack between the valves. These little crack are minor and ussually don't go that deep on the NA engines. the general consensus is if the cracks are small they are fine. The thing is that the higher heat and compression of the turbo makes them crack worse(ie... all the way to through the exhaust into water passage. But if you run an even bigger turbo on higher compresion pistons, you'll be subjecting either head, single or dual port, to alot of intense heat and pressure. You're just as likely to crack the single port heads as the duals.

here are the solenoids, hooked up normal http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c108/Numbchux/PICT2412.jpg here it is bypassed Bypassing solenoids is a matter of seconds. The vac hose that has the little oneway valve is the vacuum line(comes across engine bay,then loops down along bottom of pic) Pull the elbow off of at that valve. connect either of the two lines coming up out of the solenoids to the vacuum line. One of them should disengage the 4wd. If that doesn't work, follow those 2 vacuum lines down to the side of the tranny. They go into a big UFO lookin diaphram. The diagphram operates the lever. You should be able to see the lever, but it may be easier to move from under the car.