Gloyale

Sound like the throw out bearing? but then you might still hear it in neutral. otherwise I'm thinking differential side bearing/s? Pinion shaft bearing?

It sucks, but you can run the turbo as is still. Just start looking for a new one or a rebuilt. I've run several turbos that had play more than a mm. That is about the limit I would say though. I can hear the "rable rable" now.

95 and after legacy's used an electronic speed sensor. no speedo cable

I agree with GD and everyone else. Don't use that crap, it won't work, and it will gaurantee someone else will be more screwed and the car will be junked. Sell it as is or fix the HG's. Or just scrap it yourself and sell us the parts:clap:

Okay, some one tell me, What the @#$% is a Cyber pump?

Take off the disty cap and see if the rotor is still screwed to the top of disty shaft. I had excactly the same problem. 86 turbo, just died, like T-belts. But the belts where fine, and spark was present. But the timing was literally random so it would not catch, except very momentarily. Drove me nuts for weeks, I was thinking ecu as well after ruling out MAF/TPS/CTS/AAV/Fuel pump/ fuel pressure reg/ everything:dead: . It wasn't till I actually tried to move the rotor on the disty shaft I figured it out, cause if you just pull the cap and crank it rotor spins. Gotta actually touch it to know.

Code 4 is anb identification code for the ECU and Car. 1-4 means MPFI: 1 = MT, 49 state 2= MT, Cali 3= AT, 49 state 4= AT,Cali 5-8 means SPFI in the same order. 4 means you have an MPFI, Auto, California car. The fact that you are getting this and not a trouble code means the ECU does not see a problem in u-check at least. Do you know how to run read and D-check modes? ECUs seldom Fail. Rule out everything else twice before you replace one.

No actually, any 3spd automatic car, even with turbo, has 23 spline axles. He needs 25 spline. So you can't just say turbo. espescially before 89 when they dropped the 3spd in turbo 4wds. it stayed for the 2wds. Anyhow, lookin it up as a 4wd turbo MT should work should work, regardless of year. I did get an axle once that was all correct except it had the wrong length shaft. too short to make it to the stub! just a mistake at the reman place I guess.

The problem is you're using a Haynes manual. It is just giving you a generic fuel injection walk through of doing a compresson check. I bet it is word for word from there "fuel injection" workbook for "all vehicles":lol: No disty lead, just undo the harness connector to coil. Unplug injector clips. go for it. If you use a remote starter switch, or just a jumper wire, from 12v @ bat to solenoid term. on starter, you don't have to unplug anything. Fuel pump and coil won't be operative, just starter. Just remove all plugs and hold open the throttle by hand.

Cap for an 88 may work. I know that the rotors however are different after from 87 on. (early 87 XT's however had the old style still) The change coincides with all the other MPFI stuff. You're 85 wagon will be challenging to get the right parts for. I had an 86 turbo, same deal. One trick for the rotor hwever if you can't get the right one is to get one for a late model turbo(87-91) and simply cut off the plastic skirt at it's base. Other than that skirt it is the same rotor, and will fit and function. Make sure you get that little screw that holds it tight, if it comes out, the rotor will be free to spin willy nilly in there. RANDOM IGNITION TIMING!!

That seem is rough:-\ Bottom right corner of the last photo, look at the little finger at the bottom of that water passage. it's not on the opposite face. you must have sawn through a tiny little fisure in the metal.

line up the dot on the disty shaft with the little notch in the housing for a more excact no.1 line up.(from FSM) This compensates for the little twist and gets it in the right range for timing adjustment. you won't have a problem

Goatcheez, How do you like this weather eh? Blizzard! Just cause you don't have a CEL, you may actually still have stored codes. it could be a simple vaccuum issue too. Like GD said you need to run d-check and get codes. ussually these things are easy(ussually:-\ ) Where in Milwaukee are you? I am in Kenosha. I could help you look at it. I ussually don't charge for diagnosis(unless it's crazy). I suppose it would be best to drive up in the mornin to look at it cold. What you got goin on Tommorow? Also, I grew up raising goats and making goat cheese.

The water pump is driven off of the T-Belt. There is a hydraulic tensioner that can be tricky. Unbolt it when you take off the belt. to reinstall, You'll have to use a vise or C-clamp to compress it. There is a small hole in it. Put a small allen through the hole to hold it compressed. install it and the belt on engine, then pull the allen wrench out to release the tensioners piston. Other than that, all other normal timing belt stuff applies: check tensioners, idlers, WP, etc.. just line all the notches up at the top, and ussually the belt has marks on it that will line up with the marks on pulleys as well.

+1 for AAMCO sucking. No doubt they ripped off the OP and screwed something up. But I still think they probably did change the TC. And the aparently unremoved roll pins don't give him evidenceThat they didn't. I repeat: tell any shop before they start work to save all your old parts to show you.

Why? They do so many cars all the time that come out as one piece. They probably didn't even notice the pins. You give AAMCO too much credit. They probably unbolted the knuckles to swing out first, and then the stubs just pulled out with the axle before they even looked at the inner end of the axle. There is no way in hell AAMCO pulled the engine. Again most of the cars they see, to service the tranny, you drop the tranny. Why would they deal with removing Radiator hoses, fuel lines, wiring, etc..? They have very nice Tranny jacks and lifts and for them dropping a tranny would be by far the easier way to go. Although they may have done a crappy job, I doubt very much a national chain store would completely lie about what they did. If they billed for a torque converter, they probably replaced it. Espescially if you're original problems where remedied. For a small measure of scam protection, tell any shop before they start work to save all your old parts to show you. Don't let them give you crap about cores, they can return them later after you've looked at them. on another note, It is hard to believe that your Trans, Torque converter, and TCU went out all at once. I think they just did everything cause they couldn't figure out the real problem so they covered everything, and jacked up the bill

Yeah those cracks between the valves can eventually make it to the ehxaust port. Check out the "splitting Head ache" thread and take a look at the pictures. It shows just how far the crack can go before it hits the port. granted it's on a 6 cylinder but they get the same cracks.

Yes. The halfshafts have to come out. But they can be pulled without punching out the pin and disconnecting them from the axle stub. The stubs can be pulled out of the side of the tranny with the axles. This is how most cars half shafts come out, as they have no pins, and I doubt AAMCO bothered to pull the pins. So they probably just yanked emn out stub and all. The bad thing is that the little spring clips that hold the stubs into the Differential should be replaced before reinstall. It may be one of these stubs is not properly seated into the Diff.

OK. sorry I must have been thinkin of someone else whos done HG's and posted bout it. To me that sounds like what is goin on. One other remote possibility is that your turbo has a small crack in it and coolant is leaking to exhaust side. Very unlikely but I have seen it once. It was caused I think by a failed wastegate causing over boosting and overheating.

What color was that '85? I am in Kenosha, and I know of maybe 4 or five old soob's in this town other than mine. There are 2 here that used to be mine. I brought them out from Oregon with no rust. Anyway I just am curious to be on the lookout for it. If the guy calls you and needs mechanic advice or work done, tell him bout me. I have a garage here in Kenosha, FSM's for all years of ea82 GLs(85-89) and tons of spare subie parts. PM me for my Phone and Addy.

Wait! in your post just before this you claimed to never have had a cv joint fail. you say you drove 50'000 miles on torn boots. How is it you say an aftermarket will strand you? I ussually clean and replace the boots myself until the joint gets really bad.(ussually after the second new boot, or if it's clickin with grease in it) At that point I buy a reman or new aftermarket with a lifetime warranty from a national chain auto parts store. I've had pretty good luck with any remans I've bought. no problems. If you buy another soob, and it needs an axle, take your reciept in and get a new one! free axles for life:clap:lol (never actually done this but it's a nice idea)

That's a pretty rough angle on the front axles. Ouch!!LOL

wow, anyone else notice how constricted that coolant passage around the exhaust port is in that one spot?

Rock on Gravity man:headbang: I think you inspired me to cut up one of my trashed heads. I have one that actally lost a valve seat so it is pretty much toast. Wait!!! Won't your older self be kickin the younger one for Hacksawing a one of the rarest Subie heads out there?

93 legacy AT with 290,000 mi. 22-27mpg reliably