Gloyale

But didn't you do head gaskets recently? It may not be a intake problem, but a head gasket issue.

Only the rear portion of the shaft needs to be removed. With the front wheels up, and with it in 2wd obviously the rear drivshaft will not be turned by the tranny so just unbolting the rear flange and wiring the driveshaft to the body off to the side. As far as getting to the nuts, do 2, roll car forward a foot, do the other 2. The whole rear section can be removed at both ends if you like. The front portion and carrier bearing stay in place and keep the rear of tranny sealed. I had to drive my 85 gl with D/R like this for quite a while when it got stuck in 4 low. 2wd LO!

+1 for a dying alternator. I just had this identical experience recently. Happen in the middle of a 2200 mile trip from Oregon to WIsconsin. Luckily Advance Auto Parts in Fargo had one in stock.($20 more than it would have been at the local advance here in WI) Glad it's an easy swap cause it was -8 degrees at 7:30 am in front of the store where I had to work on it. Another simple test. with car idling, turn on all your accesories, lights, blower fan, R. defrost, radio, AND windshield wipers. The wipers are the thing to watch, if they are moving real slow, surely it's your alernator. This is actually what I noticed before noting all the indicator lights glowing dimly.

'93 legacy, 2.2, Automatic, AWD. Can someone point me at the TCU? Is it above the rear wheel well like my old GL? Is it even a seperate unit from the ECU? I only have FSMs for the EA cars:(

It is not just a possibility, it happens. And even with the cover I can do the whole job in a hour. Why would it take you 2 hours to undo the covers? Why does everone hate these covers so much? The only time they are a problem is the first time if the nut spins in the plastic. I use a chisel to cut away the top of the tab that the nut is in. Then they just pop on and off. It is only the end covers that are tricky and once you've popped em it's a breeze.

On the ea82 cars there is a fan relay. The relay is up under the dash in a group with 4-6 other relay's. It is round, I had to replace one recently on an '86. First time I've ever seen one go bad but those are the symptoms. You can test motor by jumping 12v to terminal where the Green/white wire goes. Other terminal is ground. This is the info for an EA82. But it is consistant across all years 85-89 as far as wire color. Gound wire for motor is listed as blue for EA82. Is the Red and White wire present in the connector to the resistor and switch as well? If yes you are good. Easy to test continuity to gound as well. I assume it would be the same in the ea81. But Hopefully this give's you a starting point.

I'm confused? AT? 5-speed? are we talkin about a manual or automatic? 2wd or 4wd? If it's a manual, it takes 3.5 quarts, unless it is a 2wd non-turbo. Then 2.7 quarts. The dipstick/fillhole are on the right(pass) side. if it's an automatic, your diff(gear oil) and your Automatic tranny are seperate cases. Differential dipstick and fill hole are on right(pass) side. It takes 1.3 quarts of gear oil. The auto tranny dipstick is on left(drivers)side. Trans takes 7.2-7.6 quarts for a 4wd. 6.3-6.8 for 2wd. This is from 86 FSM

Only problem with the relay is that it still relies on the starter position of the ignition switch to be making good contact. If it makes poor contact it will be the point where the current load is too great. Which I believe is the root cause of 90% of these "CLICK" no start issues in old subies (and old Hondas and Toyotas too I might add) Run a fused(important) wire of at least 12 gauge off of the positive battery post of the starter. Run to a button on dash, back to solenoid with a piggyback so you can put the original wire on the solenoid terminal as well. That way you only need the button if the no start happens. Running the 12v lead off the starter makes the distance as short as possible. And I hate wiring right off the battery even with a fused lead. I've used a 15 amp wire/swtich/fuse and have not blown a fuse or melted a wire. The most recent car I did this in had a relay setup wired in already when I got it. Didn't work cause the ignition switch is so crappy. The ignition switch works sometimes, but rarely, so the relay didn't do squat. I took it out. Button works with out fail.

I think I remember that thread. And I think I voted for running the covers just for this reason. I'm up in Kenosha, WI. Just right up the I from you and Milemaker. Give me a PM if you ever need random GL/loyale parts. I've got 2 parted out in boxes.

93 Legacy Wagon. my A/C condenser is shot, big hole, corrosion. I want to replace it. Found a listing for one new. Listed as 92-93 SEDAN ONLY? Can this be? seems like wagon or sedan would have the same A/C condnsor. Is there some small difference anyone knows of. Wouldn't this one work?

I've had so many of these. The best: I've ever seen was with a new pump/seals in an '86 carbed Wagon. 30 at hot idle, 50-60 at 3000 RPMs hot The worst: another (different) '86 carbed wagon a little below zero hot idle, a little above at 3000 RPM's hot(that was how I bought it, replaced that pump quickly.) The one I've got now: 89 Turbo wagon unknown milage on pump/seals. 5-10 at hot idle. 25-35 at 3000 RPMs hot. Ticks like a sonnanabich! (that really is from some crappy lifters I HAD to install at the time I built up this motor for a hasty cross country trip) Everything else(4 others) has been somewhere in between

I think to clarify it should be said that the outermost hose, the one that gos straight under the manifold to water pump is the inlet into heater. The one closest to the center of the car, coming from the intake body is the inlet. They can be reversed as GD said, but then the two hoses would cross over eachother, and the water is still going in the same direction through the hoses, just backwards through the heater. This is good to do when you run a cleaner through before your flush. Switch the hoses, run the cleaner and do your flush. Then switch them back(or not) and refill system. I've also flushed just the heater core with a garden hose cut and clamped on to the outlet. As a side note, poor coolant circulation can cause the same effect on the heater function. How sure are you that you've got good pump circulation? If you've run just water for a while, and you've got an aftermarket waterpump, the impeller may have rusted away. You would likely be overheating or running hot sometimes as well. If you've got good antifreeze with no rust in it this is probably not the case. Just thought I'd pose the question.

To be true to your name, wouldn't you want to just take the knuckles in to Napa or wherever and have them done? They can ussually reinstall your axle in the knuckle. Pulling that axle through new bearings is a *************** without some kind of rig for doin it.

There is a totally different wiring setup? You would need to rewire to along with swapping the Coils. Believe me I tried. It was a long time ago but there are some wiring differences. This can be obsevred in the FSM for 87

My buddies 88 DL was doing this. Turned out to be bad contacts at the Coolant temp sensor. Can't explain it but cleaned them and it fixed it. Have you read the codes? Try running it with the green test connector hooked up. this should defeat the computer advance. When we ran his like that no bubbling, no overheating. un plug it and it would boil over and over heat. cleaned the CTS and it was fine.

ND distributors came in 4wds. From my experience they where common on late 86's and most 87's. I personally like the servicability of the Hitachi Distributors better. too bad they aren't plug and play interchangable.

If you where burning that much coolant, you'd have thick white/grey smoke that smelled like antifreeze. I haven't headr anything that really suggests head gasket failure here. Have you checked all hoses? heater hoses, the little bypass hoses from under intake and next to throttlebody? Leaks from the heater hoses will often only steam out water and it drips onto the driver side exhaust and evaporates. It is backwards logic to be planning a headgasket job when you really have not confirmed this to be the trouble. Also, running only water is wreaking havoc on your sensors, water pump, heater core, radiator, and the block itself. Terrible idea. When you installed the new water pump, did you note wheher it had a cast impeller like OEM? Or did it have the stamped steel, fan blade looking impeller aftermarket rebuilders use? If it is the stamped, fan blade looking type you are in for trouble. Running just water will rust those thin little blades to nothing and you'll be left with a bare shaft spinning in there and no circulation. Those rust particle will then lodge in your heater core and raditor and rust those out. FYI, I've seen at least 3 of these engines with totally blown headgaskets, and all of them still ran fairly normal with the exception of the nasty smoke and eventually getting hot. I've seen these engines run half decent(literally) on just the drivers side 2 cylinders. So I don't think one low cylinder would cause a "no start" conditon. If you have to change the HG's, do the cam seals, front main, and probably the oil pump seals as well. Rear main seal requires engine removal so leave that one alone. be ready for the rockers to fall when you remove the cam case. If you reach your fingers in you can hold them in place. I usually try to hold at least the middle two. If the outer ones fall it is fairly east to tell which on it cam from, but if they all fall good luck. My first HG job I dropped em all, mixed em up, and said prayer while I randomly reasembled. Ran fine, no trouble for 40,000 miles.(sold it)

I've sen more than one subaru have poor contacts at the actual ignition switch. Try jumping power straight to the solenoid spade connector with the key in the "on" position/eng not running. If it will not start from the key but will with a straight jump it is a good sign the switch is not making good enough contact I've owned 7 subies and 3 of them needed a push button starter switch wired up. I run a fused(important) wire from the big positive connector on the starter where the batt. cable goes for a 12v supply. run that wire through firewall to a push button switch, and back to the solenoid connector. Put a piggy back spade on the wire and you can hook the original solenoid wire back up. That way you can still "try" to start it with the key like normal. If it doesn't work, leave the key in the on position and then hit the button. Note: If putting power to the solenoid with key "on" does not turn starter and start car, this is not the fix. In that case the previous advice in this still applies

Quote: "so I did a compression check on all cylinders and came up with,#1-48lbs, #2-60lbs, #3-65lbs, and #4-20lbs, How could this thing be running good yesterday and try to start it couple hours later and the compression be that low? What is the least copression on this motor that it would run?" For your compression to be that low in all cylinders at once suddenly is strange. Almost like unbelievable strange. I think these motors need at least 80-100 pounds to run decent. How good is your Gauge? Are you using one of those hold-it in there gauges? They are notoriously bad, ussually cause they're of a cheap quality. Skipped timing belts can certainly give you bad compression readings though. check those again and be sure they are lined up. With the middle of the 3 little timing lines on the flywheel lined up on the arrow, The marks on the camshaft pulleys should be one at top and one bottom alternatley. You said you smelled coolant. Was it low? are you going through it? And are you getting dense grey, smelly(like antifreeze) smoke? If so you may have blown a head gasket, over heated your motor, or toasted valves, or any combination of the three. My gut tells me this isn't the likely case however. As far as running issues. Have you checked for trouble codes. Things such as a Mass airflow sensor going bad can cause it to die. Check that the intake hose from airbox is not loose or broken. Double check the timing, the spark, read the codes, oh... and listen for the fuel pump, could be the unaddressed issue here. in order to use the turbo motor you mention, Not only would you need the Manifold from the your car but the heads as well. the single port manifold will not bolt to the turbo heads. And as mentioned the lower compresion pistons in the turbo block would leave you with maybe 50 hp.

The cable that controls the vent flap on that side has probably slipped out of it's little clip, so that you cannot fully close this flap. The cable runs just under the skin of dash edge, coming from beside the vent opening. Kind of a pain, but it can be reached and repositioned.

Listing for my prospective tranny is for 89-91 XT 4cyl. The shop say's it is brand new, crated from subaru dealer, 4spd, AWD. Does this seem right? If it's what they say it should fit into my GL Turbo AWD.

O.K. but would a 4cyl XT have a 4eat or the old 3spd. A '90 XT specifically 4wd

What about a 4cyl? I am trying to verify that I'm not getting a 3spd selective 4wd.

What about on a standard XT 4cyl? would the 4EAT from a 4cyl. have 3.700 final drive?

Does anyone know if an 89-91 XT automatic will replace the 4EAT in my 89Fulltime 4wd GL turbo? Both are 4spds, AWD. I think. did the 4cyl xt these years have a 3spd pt? Things I've considered: Does the XT use the same shifter setup? D-3-2 with 1st hold switch? or is it like a legacy, D-3-2-1? XT is shorter, is the tranny shorter? I wouldn't think so but I am tryin to make sure. gear ratio. My car has 3.7 rear end. Will the XT tranny match this? And finally, TCU compatibility? this one I'm not so worried, as long as it has the same internals and electrical controls the TCU should be able to manage it.