Gloyale

Have you done a compression test? A motor that sat for 6 years could have some pretty sad rings and big rust grooves in the cylinders. Just as thought added to this wild tangent rich thread.

I have a full time 4WD 4speed automatic in my GL. It does in fact have 25 spline stubs. 3speeds have 23. I always end up having to order the axle for the manual tranny turbos. The part stores just don't have enough info about the fulltime 4wd models

That sure looks like it worked. But in the future, all you need is a bigger, blunter, wedge to spread the steering knuckle where it clamps on the ball joint. It also helps to leave the Ball joint bolted to the lower control arm. Hammer a wedge into that slot. Try to go in at an angle so the wedge tip doesn't seat into the groove on the ball joint. Then you can basically stand on the lower control arm and push it down out of the knuckle. put a jack under the knuckle to keep it up while you push down. it should not require the kind of force you used. get a better wedge. (maybe use an XT6? LOL)

Wiring is easy. Just a tip, the tailamp assemblies have a connector for all wires at the bottom. If you splice in below the connector(body side) then if you bust tailight lense or something, you can replace it without having to undo your trailer wiring. Also, the strip, wrap and solder method will work great. That said I have used the simple "clip on" tap splice connectors with no problems. In fact if you had it professionally wired by U-Haul or such they would use them. So long as you get the correct ones for the gauge of wire your using, and wrap it tight with electrical tape for corrosion protection.

Check and see if it has a Limited Slip Differential. There is a sticker on the rear differential. It has the gear ratio. It will say LSD in big letters if it is a limited slip. If it is you've got at least that as a score. Is it FullTime AWD? or Dual range with Diff lock? or just single range push button?

Because people will always have a preference for one or the other. I myself only have my daily driver anymore. It is a 89 GL with the early 4eat. I really love having the automatic. I got a kid to watch in back and coffee to drink in my cupholder, I don't need to worry about shifting. If I really do the 4EAT is good at engine braking with a downshift. I never really find it in the wrong gear. It seems to hold the lower gears well when going up big hills and doesn't hunt around too much. I particulary think my EA82 turbo benefits from the auto because it keeps the RPMs up between gears and shifts quickly so the boost stays pretty constant on acceleration. Among different manufacturers, Subaru makes some of the smoothest, smartest, most driveable automatics. I'd say rated against other brands Subaru's 4EAT gets an A or even A+ grade. By contrast, their manual, is slow to shift(long rough throws), clunky, noisy, and prone to synchro deteriorization. They are durable enough, but unrefined. Judged against other manuals from say Nissan, Mazda, Honda, BMW, Audi, they get a C to B- at best. I really hate the on/off throttle jerkiness at low speeds in 2nd and 3rd gears around town. My buddy has a 5MT in his 94 Legacy, the jerkiness makes his wife nauscious. Oh yeah, didn't this whole thing start cause someones wife was unhappy? When the wife ain't happy, no one is.

Couldn't one easily just tap out the hole where the EJ sensor goes to larger threads to accept the EA sensor? it is only a small difference, should be plenty of metal to tap. Probably would need to be done with the engine, or at least the manifold, removed from the car. Seems like the most logical solution to me

You say right there that "both will have near zero" !! yet you still say 50/50??? 50% of zero is Zero! Try this. Put a 2wd car or truck up on jackstands. Start the car and put it in gear and let the tires spin. You can grab one side and stop it by hand. the other side will keep spinning. Now imagine that the stopped wheel is the one on the ground with traction. It won't get any power cause the other one is in the air. I guess really it goes to a 100/0 torque transfer. with the 100% going to the spinning wheel!! A true 50/50 split would make the wheel with traction spin and move the car even if the other was off the ground. in other words you would not be able to stop it by hand. we may be splitting hairs about terms. You obviously know that an open diff will leave you stuck.

I am working on design for a duty cycle controller right now. I may end up with a variable control using a potentiometer. I have already done the switch the simple way. It works. I just think the idea of forcing lock without completely shutting of the duty solenoid is great. I will start a new thread once I build and test it. BTW, many people have stated that "an open diff is 50/50". This is only true UNTIL ONE WHEEL SLIPS! then torque transfer is limited to no more than can be applied to the wheel with the least traction. Which doesn't help at all when the tires get to slipping

everything except the milage of the mid 90's Legacy. It has 290,000 miles! I said it has 80,000 more miles on it than my GL which is at 210,000! I wouldn't use the "lock" at more than about 30-35 mph. Even if the inceased transfer of the 1st hold range worked (which it doesn't, not in my car) I would be way wound out in rpms by about 20-25. and even at 20, once I am movin I would want to be in second.

It doesn't work like that. especially in the older 4eats found in GL's,GL-10s, XTs and XT-6. First of all you only get the increased transfer in 1st on these old ones. BUT there is no 1st on the select lever. You must push in the 1 hold button when the shifter is in 2nd position. Then you get 1st gear. so you'd be limited to about 20-30mph tops. Second of all, The increase from being in 1st is not nearly as much as when you lock it with the switch. It just isn't. If you haven't done it you don't know. Third and maybe most importantly, The older computers just aren't as good as the new ones. It takes way too long once the front slips to kick in and send power. Even then it is not smooth and isn't even enough power to the back end when it's really deep snow. I have a 93 Legacy, with 80,000 more miles than my GL, and it transfers beautifully. It just bites and goes no matter what. No front wheel slip. even in the deepest snow. I don't need the switch in that car. But my GL just doesn't transfer power real well(unless I use the switch). Also, If EITHER of the speed sensors fail, or if the AT temp sensor fails or becomes grounded, the computer control won't send any power to the rear wheels. So this switch gives you a way to get out of bad conditions even if one of these fails by overriding the computer and lockin em up.

Mine works as is. But I still don't like the idea of there being no drain action on the pilot valve. The Transfer clutch valve, which is inline after the pilot valve has it's own drain though. so if too much pressure comes through the pilot valve, it will be drained by the transfer valve. So the only component I can see being at risk is the transfer valve and it's spring. Still I want to make the 5% duty cycle controller and wire it into the switch. I also am going to run the interupt switch to a resitor to fool the computer into thinking the Solenoid is still there so no flashing power light when I start up in the morning!

I'm just trying to figure out the controller but you can always get more complex if you want

Fuse marked as meterI believe. Also check you under hood fusible links.

Hey! new thought! I've been going through the FSM. It says that the duty solenoid C gets a "pulse wave modulation" at 50Hz. This controls the Duty Ratio from 5% to 95%. When we do the simple switch mod and interupt the circuit, obviously that means the solenoid has a 0% ratio, and never opens the drain for the pilot pressure. If a controller or just a simple fixed value cicuit could be fitted to send only a 5% duty ratio signal to the solenoid it would provide the maximum torque the transfer clutch is made to take. And allow the drain to be opened juuust slightly so that pressure does not exceed what it would under normal operation. I put up a post on Electro-tech-online.com(another forum) asking about how to go about generating this signal. Could this be a solution to the "you'll F-up your Tranny with that switch" problem?

The 3spd auto I have in my garage came out of an '88 GL-10 Turbo. I pulled it with my own two hands. FSM's for 88 and 89 DO NOT LIST a 4eat for Front wheel drive. As I said anything is possible but just cause it was a GL-10 doesn't mean it had a 4spd. I am aware and actually have the 87 XT FSM as well. But The Alleyboy said his donor car was a GL-10, not an XT. so that is not really relavant. It may have been optional in the gl-10s and not covered in the book. I am just stating info from one of the best sources (FSMs) available to us here on USMB. Not claiming it to be the end all to the topic. I am just saying he has to be sure he double checks and knows what he's got.

It's 5 degrees outside. So going to the store was not the most appealing idea. And I work all day so I don't even know if I could get to my local electronics store. I gave up on Radio Shack cause they hire kids that could be my kids! and I'm only 30! We have a great electronics store here in town and now that I know what I need i will be in there soon. Thanks for the help! And sorry to nipper for takin that so bad, I hadn't had my coffee yet. Coffee:headbang:

Please don't try to tell me I don't know what a switch is. As I said, I have already put in the "lock" switch. I was asking what specific switch grossgary used. And like I thought, and mentioned, what is needed is a double pole(2 circuit) Double throw(two different "on" positions). Ends up having 6 connection prongs like is I asked about earlier. I did know what was needed, however like Grossgary I was not using the "correct" terms. I was asking Grossgary how he set his up, not "what's a switch? DUH?" The diagram provided by skip was perfect and answered my question. Much more useful than your naysaying and condescension

Well, people are saying some XT's had a fwd 4spd. But the FSM for the 87,88,and 89 says that that Automatic, fwd, GL-10's had 3spds. You said yours came from a GL-10. I'll believe anything is possible when it comes to Soobs. I am just trying to be constructive. Does the shifter go D-3-2(won't have the 1), or D-2-1? Are you sure someone didn't swap the tranny into the GL-10 from something else? At any rate I've got a good working 3spd fwd that i would part with for near nothing:)

If you only use them in really deep snow or total ice sheet conditions, and drive at slow speeds the chains are fine. As with the rest of the Subie crowd here I've never used mine but lots of people with 4wd systems of all types use them and ussually only in front. Heck in Subies at least there is a center diff to make up for differences in rotation of axles. Trucks and old Subies have a locked center diff and people use chains on the front of them. It is only a bad idea if there is less than an inch or two of snow and you want to do 40-50 mph. If you NEED chains on a Subie you need to be crawlin anyway cause it must be bad! It just has to be slippery enough that the wheels slip enough to not bind the drivetrain.

O.K. but how do you get the light to go on by breaking the circuit? When it's in lock the switch is in the "off" position so how does it turn the light ON? Do you see what I'm saying?

My 89 FSM does not list any 2WD 4eats. The early 4eats were all the "fullTime" 4wd models. Are you dead sure? My 87, 88, and 89 FSM's say the same. So for a tranny that supposedly doesn't exist, I don't what to tell you about the swap. I have a 2wd 3speed from a 88 GL-10. I would love to get it to someone who will use it. It would be a direct fit, I'll include the Torque converter and flex plate. The turbo ones are slighlty tougher and have a higher stall on the TC.

I have already installed the switch to break the circuit. It works:Flame: great but i would like to have a light to indicate. I don't get how you open the circuit for the Lock but CLOSE the cicuit for the light. are you using a 3 position switch? Power and ground for the light I get. But which do you run through the switch? it has to be a seperate circuit so it must be a 2 circuit switch. Maybe a 3 position, 6 pole switch?

FYI, not to be picky but if you got an '89, It's not a Loyale, it's a GL or GL-10 they are essentialy the same car but it can make for confusion in here and you'll get some feathers ruffled 'round here if you don't know the lingo.