Gloyale

Okay, I get the 2 circuit switch. But here is the thing. To get the "locked" 4wd, the circuit should be open,i.e. switch "off". So that would not complete the circuit for the light. Is this how you did yours? With the switch simply interupting the current? Is your light on in the normal mode and goes off in "locked". confused

What about just just bypassing the solenoid by connecting the Vacuum supply hose right to the diaphram. You wouldn't even have to run it right to the diaphram you could just do the whole deal right at the solenoid. With the engine running it should be easy to figure which line needs vacuum to be in 4WD. Just hook each one up and see which one engages the 4WD. might need a little double ended male vaccuum connector. That would be pretty simple to connect, disconnect, depending on snow conditions.

I'm confused. The choke is supposed to open when the car is running. a closed choke will make it die once warm.

That little vacuum hose going into the canister is really skinny and flexible. I had mine gert twisted just alittle and clogged. That caused the same symptom where fan only blows out of vents.

There is a vaccum hose that goes to the automatic you need to disconnect and plug. That shouldn't be be your high rev issue though, just a footnote. The emmisions sticker under the hood should show the differences between Manual and Automatic. The junction with the circle around it in picture.

If it is an SPFI model, check the connection of the Coolant tempature sensor, the one with 2 wires. Make sure it has good contact and test the continuity. it should not be 0 or infnity. Somewhere in between, varying with temp. Check service manual for value. If it is bad or getting bad contact, the ignition timing is affected and can cause overheating. head gasket is what you do when you rule everything else out. Flush the radiator before you do a head gasket. While you've got the flushing agent in it (or before you add it I guess) it's a good idea to swap the heater core hoses so the coolant will flow in reverse through it. Then do the rest of the fushing, and switch it back when you're done before refill. Cleans out the sludge and helps the heat inside.

Really it's true! No rust! I just picked up an '89 in Oregon to bring back here to the rust belt. They salt the crap of the roads here in Wisconsin so mine is the only old Soob in town without giant rust holes in the rockers and fenders. They don't salt roads in Oregon or California or Washington I believe. The west coast cars are in good shape bodywise. Unless you get the rare car left to sit under a tree for years. And even then the rust will be far less than you'd find in any state that salts roads.

The big difference TCU wise is "1st hold" switch and the different shifter setups. Legacys have all four gears on the shifter and have the MANU select button. EA's use a different shifter/inhibitor switch. I would think that there must be differenceds in the TCU's although you may be able to trick it(wire the first hold switch into the 1st position on inhibitor?) I am not going to be swapping tranny's or TCU's so I don't know why this is the direction the thread has taken. No mine does not. it only needs the ignition pulse from coil. and the Signal from TPS. And those signals come straight from the sensors. NOTHING COMES FROM THE ECU! there is no MAP signal to Trans. I cannot speak for later 4EAT but on these early ones I have gone over the FSM many times and am sure of what I need to wire. There is a second speed sensor on the rear of tranny.

89 GL Turbo w/235,000 86 GL carbed w/278,000 93 Legacy just ticked over 290,000

If you stand it up, with the engine mating face on the table. The hub height is the height from the table to the top of the face where pulley bolts on. You can see the height differences in the pictures above. Forget about studs, sometime aftermarket pumps have em sometimes they don't. "hub" reffered to is the hub that the pulley bolts to. Does your pulley bolt have 2 sets of bolt holes? I mean does it bolt to the WP hub with 4 and then have four other holes for the fan? If so you need the shorter one. If the pulley and fan go on toghether on the same studs you need the longer one. If you put the wrong pump in you will see the belt being out of alignment. I know them as 105mm and 110mm. convert that to inches. if al else fails take your old one in and match it up, that is the gauranteed way.

This is misleading, if not flat wrong. XT's- all of them, use the shorter pump. DLs,GLs,and Loyales used either one depending on whether they had "dealer" or "factory" air conditioning. dealer installed air uses the longer pump whilke the factory air uses the shorter one. If you have no Air conditioning it should use the long one. If your A/C compressor is to the outside of the alternator it is Factory installed air. If A/C condensor is between alternator and PS pump then it is Dealer installed air. others denote it by brand "matsu************a vs. panasonic" I can't remeber which is which from the top of my head. Using different pulleys does not make it work. Use washers and spacers at your own risk. Just buy the right one! we're talkin about a $40 part!

Less of a wiring dilemma than the engine swap. That is a moot point aswell becasuse I am not talkin about the 3AT. And if you read my first post you'd see I'm talking about just changing bell housings not whole tranny so TCU/controls/sensors/ would not even be an issue as they stay stock.

The tranny in the car right now is a 4EAT. Almost excactly the same as the tranny in a 90-94 legacy. Sound like the bellhousings are interchangeable. I am puzzled as to whether they use the same Torque Converters though. Wouldn't the EJ torque converter need to have a slightly larger ring gear on it for the starter to engage? Does anyone know if the starters themselves are the same EA vs. EJ?

25 spline on 4wd turbo MT and 4spd auto's 23 spline on all 3spd autos and others.

After talking forever about using an adapter plate to swap an EJ into an EA, I came up with a new idea. On automatics the bellhousing is bolted to the front of the differential. I wonder if an EJ bellhousing could be bolted onto an EA automatic.? The EA82 automatic is an early "fulltime" 4EAT. Basically the same as the EJ version. are the bellhousings interchangable? That would eliminate the need for the 1/2 inch adapter plate. I'd need to use the EJ torqueconverter to engage the starter. The torque converters would need too be cross compatible to as far as the input shaft engagement. Anyone got experience with this or tranny's the could measure to compare

You could remove the Transfer clutch section of your tranny and replace the valve yourself. The intermnitentness of the flashing indicates to me that you've got a failed Duty solenoid C. Not neccesarilly the valve.(I don't know how a valve stuck could send info to the TCU to generate a code). There is no need to remove the transmission oil pan to get at it. And no reason to replace the tranfser clutch itself, except for the "while we're in there" philosophy. Valve and solenoid are in the tail section of the transmission. The transfer valve can be inspected and you could clean/deburr it to check for smoothness. How does it affect it when you insert the FWD fuse under the hood? If it doesn't change the TB at all then you probaly have a bad duty solenoid. If it alters the TB, but doesn't eleminate it then you're duty solenoid is working. Then the problem may well be the valve stuck open letting too much pressure through.

I use a small magnet extension too. I hold one edge of the nut with the magnet, then carefully place it over the stud. Then I pin it on there with my fingers and start turning. ussually they go on by hand far enough to stay till you get the wrench on em

organic. LOL "Excuse me,...but do you have organic control units?":lol:

This is what I did too. @ speaker wires under the dash are easy to run. It's really easy to just use spade connectors to connect to the little pink connectors in the footwells. Then you can just wire your stereo into the stock harness for the back, since the fronts will no longer be connected to it.

I don't know but I've had mine short and stay on. the wires for it are shielded. Car had an Engine fire before I bought it(failed wastegate). The fire melted the shielding through the insulation on the inner wires and shorted it to ground. AWD wouldn't work right, and it stayed in the "power" shifting mode so it was revving way high before shifting and shifting abruptly. Both conditions are "failsafes" when the temp light goes on.

Nipper, Grossgary is not the only one. There are at least 2 of us who have done this mod!LOL My 4EAT has the early "1st hold" switch. transfer clutch pressure is state to "increase" in the "1st hold" range. FSM also say's that in reverse, or upon wheel slip, that pressure is increased to the same as in "1st hold" DOES NOT say that it is increased to "locked" The only time the FSM describes the pressure as "locked" is in reference to Duty solenoid C being inopperative. Which is what we do with the interupt switch. Grossgary, I'm interested in how you wired your indicator light?

I have done this mod and would agree with all of the above. switch interupts, just when really needed. BTW I've had codes set on first start up after using it.

What is the condition of the turbo? any shaft play? has it gotten very hot? It is possible that the turbo casting could crack and allow water and oil to mix. But then it would also have to be leaking oil around the shaft bearing for it to get into the intake. I've never seen that happen. I have encounted grey oily sludge in that intake on most of the ones I've taken out. It is probably evcess moisure and oil from the PCV system. Extra moisture from the blown head gasket.

I though that may be the case. but at anyrate it does help, since alot of these systems are getting quite old. To your point i also have a 93 legacy automatic with no modifications at all. It transfers really well. Seemlessly almost. I can take off from a stop in deep snow or stab the gas in a turn and I get almost immediate push from the rear. That Tranny has 290,000 miles!!!! I think it may just be that the really early systems(like my GL) where not as well managed by the TCU. The TCU processes info from the throttle sensor and an ignition pulse from the coil. Along with info from the Speed sensors and ATF temp sensor. Later systems, 95+ may use more info but I know for myself so I won't say. The signal to the Duty solenoid C is then determined and sent from the TCU. note: if your ATF temp light is on for any reason while driving, you will get <5% torque transfer(unless you use the switch) This is to protect the system from High ATF temp. But it's annoying if you're light is shorted and always on(mine was shorted and always stayed on, even right after a cold start) or if the sensor fails(you have to pull the trans oil pan to replace).

I think I have to use my EA flexplate. Unless the EJ one is the same size/boltpattern with regards to the Torque Converter mounting. If that is the same it would be nice to use an EJ flexplate, so I don't have to drill out the crank mounting holes on an EA one. Are the starter teeth on the flexplate or the Torque converter on an EJ?