Gloyale

Yeah. To clarify, I don't really want to do a twin turbo and from the soumd of it I can't anyway. But the next issue is whether a NA or single turbo DOHC engine will fit. I heard once that the larger DOHC heads won't clear the frame but maybe that was talkin about an EA81 swap? Maybe it was just wrong. I am gathering from this thread that either a SOHC or DOHC EJxx will fit? I don't know all the specific types of EJ's so forgive if I have to use the SOHC/DOHC designation

Thank you so much. that means that should be a pretty excact fit with a true half inch adapter plate. So many people have thrown around numbers between 11mm and 13mm that wanted to get an actaul measurement. I will still measure down to the thousenth when I do my swap and possible shim or shave the TC to flexplate mounts. But this gives me enough to be convinced I can do it how I want! Thanks!

I have mine set up with a switch. In sand or snow, with the switch on(normal), I get a fair amount of spin in front before I can feel the back kickin in. When it does it seems to be not quite enough. When I flip the switch off(locked) the difference is felt immediatly, regardless of what gear I'm in. works at all throttle conditions too. This is not just a theory, this is actually how my car works.

Actually it is the Duty solenoid that gets burned up. In FWD mode it runs at maximum duty cycle. Basically on 95+% of the time. Not good for it, but many people have done it for long stretches. This actually depressurizes and disengages the transfer clutch pack so I can't see how it would burn it? The other clutch packs are unaffected. I wired in a simple switch inside that closes the fuse circuit. However for me this is just to make TCU code output easier. I do not think it would save any gas to drive it like that.

I had the 86 digital dash, and I agree it sucks. Mine would all go dim from time to time in the center and left portions. It would blink like that too when I used the turnsignals sometimes. It would go off on the right only if I had all the doors locked and defrost off, basically so no indicator lights were on over there. had to be a ground problem or something in the dash.Ussually I just whacked the dashboard and it would work again. I had it for 3 year and It had been that way for 6 years at least with the guy I bought it from. He said it did it when he bought it! Also the temp gauge would just disappear intermitently. The CRUISE portion of it didn't display anything. My tach did go by increments of 100 so that was nice. Outside temp gauge was always spot on so that was nice too. I just realy hate the lack of an oil pressure and voltage gauge. Also it is totally invisible if you have any glare in the day.

I understand I need the adapter. I just need to know if with the adapter it puts the overall distance from the crank end to the mating surface(including the adapter attached to engine) at excactly the same distance. some amount of difference could be taken up by a clutch. But an automatic has 3 concentric shafts for input that must line up at just the right point inside the torque converter. I'd say <1 mm would be absolute max it could be off and probably only in the "too long" direction. I realize EA engines are the same no matter Manual or Auto. EJ's are as well. I am asking about the depth of the EJ bell housing as COMPARED to the EA. regardless of what tranny they where originally mated too.

This is kinda what I thought, as far as clearance and power issues. If I went with a Twin turbo I would definately go with a different tranny. Honestly I will probably go with a NA engine. It will be lame to have a car that say's TURBO on the side but not under hood:( But as far as the SOHC/DOHC issue. Do the larger heads of the DOHC engines clear the frame on an 89 GL?

Hey I am trying to figure out what type of EJ motor to swap into my GL. I want to know if I am stuck with a SOHC(ej18, EJ22) motor or if a DOHC(EJ25) would fit without framerail mod. My GL is a turbo, so I'm assuming a single turbo EJ would clear the crossmember. But what about a jdm Twin Turbo? Is there room on the drivers side for the other turbo? Will the exhaust clear the crossmember or will I have to modify? Is the steering shaft in the way? anyone got experience with this?

I have had an '86 GL-10 with WAAAYYY worse rust in that spot. on both sides. That box section is totally gone. I never tried to fix it because here in Wisconsin there is no inspection and they just salt the roads to destroy your car anyway. They want to make you buy a new one.(there is a Chrysler plant 6 blocks from my house, conspiricy?) I sold that car to a friend and he still drives it. I used to take it on some pretty nasty trails and it did flex a little much but it still seems really solid overall. Salted roads + mandatory vehicle inspections = Scam to make you buy a new car(and pay the sales tax) . to put it very nice. Ever thought of moving?

I do have a 4 speed. it is a FT4WD. My GL is a Turbo. But anyway. I have been round and round over this and I do not want to have to swap TCU's and rear diff. I also don't want to have to modify a driveshaft. I just want to swap an EJ into my car as it is without having to disassemble the whole drivetrain. Can someone please just give me an answer and not tell mne to swap in an EJ. Please. measure an EJ bellhousing for depth. Please

I want to do an EJ swap into my '89 GL, with FT4wd automatic. All the info I've seen is about manuals. I know a 1/2 inch adapter plate is used between the engine/tranny housing. With this combo does the distance From crank to input shaft change? It is critical for my Torque converter. I measured the depth from my EA82t's bell housing face to the crankend. it is 1.575 inches or almost excactly 40mm. Can someone tell me if an EJ measured in this same way would be shallower. Needs to be 1.075 inches. or 28.4mm. Does anyone have an EJ sitting out they can measure.

Over heating, white smoke, sounds like a head gasket to me. Do a compression test.

The knock module is only a seperate unit in the early ea82t's. 85-86 in the wagons, sedans, coupe. till mid 87 in the XT. I don't personally know where it is in the XT. In the others it is under the dash, passenger side. You can get at it by removing the glove box if you really try. Later ea82ts incorperated the knock control into the ECU.

I have an early AWD GL. Back then it was "fulltime" 4wd but basically the same. I have mine set up with a switch. It is inline in the duty solenoid c (or transfer solenoid)circuit. I leave it on(closed) normally so that the system functions with standard AWD control. When I am in deep snow or mud i can turn the switch off(open) so that no signal goes to the transfer solenoid. with no signal the solenoid does not operate. This means full torque is applied to rear wheels. FSM even refers to it as "locked" although only descibes it as default when the solenoid fails. I accessed the cicuit from the connector in the pass.(right) side kick panel. It is also easily done at the trans connector as well but then you have to run wires through the firewall. Basically you just find the wire going to the solenoid. Make sure you've got the right one. A good pinout of your excact year and model is important for this. once you're sure, cut it. Then run a wire(same gauge) to your switch and back. splice one end to each of the cut ends. you just want the switch to interupt the cicuit. just there and back It is important not to drive in the locked(switch off) mode on pavement. Or even in the mud and snow unless you really need it. If you do you'll wreck the transfer clutch from to much pressure. But you can definately feel that the rear gets more grip especially from a stop or in an "understeer" slide. I also ran another switch by tappin into the FWD fuse connector so I can turn on the FWD from inside. I used an inline fuse on the wire just so there still is a fuse. Mostly for diagnostic, because you have to put it in FWD to read the codes. But that is really a seperate affair and not needed to do the lock thing. BTW the AWD on manual transmission subies uses geared, or viscous, conventional differentials. totally different from the auto trans setup. The switch thing does not apply to manuals.

cracks in these heads ussually start from the little spot between the valves. every head Iv'e ever taken off has it. It is a matter of whether the crack goes far enough back into the head to get to a water passage. If that crack has grown that far it would create an open path out of the cylinder and you would see a drop in compression. However ussually these cracks only go about a half inch to an inch up into the wall seperating the intake/exhaust ports. You can look by removing the valves and peakin up in there. Crack has to run almost 2 inches up into the head before it hits any water passages.

It's been stated that there are two seperate filaments. But just to make sure have you checked that you have the correct bulbs that actually have two contacts and filaments?(just askin, no offense) I've seen people put a single filament bulb in there. The contact, being in the center, touches both the running light and brake light circuit. A tell tale sign of this is if your dash lights or front corner lights come on when you hit the brakes. Other wise check for voltage through the switch and at the taillights. And continuity from switch to taillight. That circuits gotta be open somewhere

Man it would be sad if you sold it to "someone on the street". Even as good as these cars can be it will need work in the future that will confound some random owner and they will junk it. that's one less clutch pack LSD in the world. Unless someone get's parts 'fore it goes to the crusher.

The housing is bent into the gap to stake it in place and keep it from rotating. It is important to restake it after reassembly. just bend it out now and punch it back later. although it probably won't end up in excactly the same spot if you are putting in a new bearing set.

The exception to this is in the EA82 and EA82t in an XT. They use a modified version of the power steering pump, the short water pump and a wide "multy v" belt although not really a serpintine. just a side note. As for the boost thinbg I wouln't drive it nowhere till you know you got some some amount of boost. You could connect a psi gauge by using a T in the line going to the boost solenoid(behind Maf on strut tower). The switch for the light is right next to it. it only has one vacuum line going to it. it can be tested by removing that vac hose and blowing into it. If the light comes on it's workin.

I've always had to undo the bottom shock bolt and the 3 trailing arm bolts so that the wheel can drop further. Then you can get enough room to take of the axle from diff. it's good to use some white out or paint pen or other method to mark the position of those 3 bolts on the Trailing arm. Their exact positioning is the only way to adjust alingnment of rear wheels. both toe and camber. There is a small section on how to align them in the FSM and some other "haynes" or "Chiltons" guides. But if they are aligned good now just mark em and try to get back to as close as you can when you reassemble.

I've seen the Fuji emblem on many non originol factory parts. doesn't mean it's from Fuji. You can find that emblem on Hitachi disty's and JECS MAFS. I've bought aftermarket NEW waterpumps with that emblem cast in it. don't mean it's from Fuji. I have double checked my FUJI PARTS CATALOG. Say's the pump is manufactured by Fuji. Paraut doesn't sound very japanese to me. Now the Paraut pumps are probably just fine for quality and if you can get em cheaper more power to you. I only use parts from the dealer because I can gaurantee the quality for my customers(anymore the dealers sometimes carry quality aftermarket, hence 80 bucks for a "dealer" pump?perhaps?). That does not mean other parts won't work just fine.

John and Phils in corvallis ALWAYS treated me good.(they all know me there in the parts dept.) and by your own statement you bought a "parut" pump from a "discount" house. The original SUBARU pump is more. And I do think Subaru stopped making them so the cheaper aftermarket pump is what is available.

Look closely at the emission sticker for any 85,86,or 87 4WD wagon. Read the label and it clearly says this "this vehicle conforms to all applicable....regulations for (MY) light duty trucks." It does. a jeep cherokee isn't a "truck" either but that is how it is classified. Do you think I just make stuff up for fun?

HMM... I paid $153 with my shop discount for one from subaru dealer 2 years ago. $80 bucks? perhaps the dealerships charge what they want too? perhaps your dealership was selling an aftermarket? Some of the Subaru dealers are starting to carry aftermarket parts for the older cars. I have never been able to find an aftermarket one from a parts store. That's just me. Also the difference between turbo and non is the sending unit depending on whether you have a gauge or an idiot light for oil pressure. You can swap your sensor/switch from one to the other. Again I said that it was a "RUMOUR" that Subaru had stopped selling them.I haven't had to buy one for 2 years. Glad that it is not the case apparently(or maybe the dealers are only carrying $80 aftermarket ones)

HMM... I paid $153 with my shop discount for one from subaru dealer 2 years ago. $80 bucks? perhaps the dealerships charge what they want too? perhaps your dealership was selling an aftermarket? Some of the Subaru dealers are starting to carry aftermarket parts for the older cars. I have never been able to find an aftermarket one from a parts store. That's just me. Also the only difference between turbo and non is the sending unit depending on whether you have a gauge or an idiot light for oil pressure. You can swap your sensor/switch from one to the other. Again I said that it was a "RUMOUR" that Subaru had stopped selling them. Glad that it is not the case apparently(or maybe the dealers are only carrying $80 aftermarket ones)